Discus Basics for a Beginner

Discus fish, king of all the aquarium tropical fish, is a breed of exotic fishes and is highly popularized as aquarium fish. Discus is a native of shallow streams and lakes running off the Amazon river and its tributaries. In the wild, these fishes dwell close to the shore, among the submerged tree roots. They feature a laterally compressed, disc-shaped body which gives the fish its name 'discus'. The sides of the fish comprises of lovely patterns in green, blue, red and brown.

Today, there are several varieties of this fish for sale at local aquarium stores. Their interactive nature has endeared them to people, making them one of the hottest options as an aquarium fish. These fishes relate to people, and even eagerly rush to greet their owners. They are observed to follow movements occurring in the room, even movements on television. However, these boisterous fishes are highly sensitive creatures and require substantial amount of care while keeping them in an aquarium. Discus care plays a significant role in keeping the fish happy and healthy. Setting up a discus aquarium and proper fish care need not be a costly investment. However, one has to invest a considerable amount of time for fish care, which is a factor that has to be kept in mind before purchasing this fish. For those of you who are pondering as to how to take care of discus fish, below are some basic care tips.

How to Take Care of Discus Fish:

Discus fish care requires diligence on the part of the pet owner. As a pet owner one will have to gather as much information about the fish and its unique living conditions as possible, so as to attain a thriving ecosystem. Understanding their feeding habits, breeding patterns and other needs will help to maintain them properly. One does not want these lively aquarium fish to perish due to lack of knowledge. Some simple discus care guidelines that need to be followed are:

Water Condition: This is an important aspect of proper discus fish care. It is important to recreate the natural environment of the fish, in order to pacify their desires. Absence of appropriate environmental conditions will result in sick and aggressive discus fish. They may even die.

Water Hardness: The parameters of the local tap water needs to be investigated. Hard tap water needs to be mixed with softened water, so as to attain the desired water for the fish. Softening can be done by using a reverse osmosis filter. Water conditions that the fish is accustomed to will reduce the chances of the fish from suffering an osmotic shock.

Water pH: The softened water will adjust the pH to the desired level easily. The recommended pH for fish should be between 6.5-7.5 for display purposes, and between 5.5-6.5 for breeding purposes. Adding peat is a great way to lower the pH gradually, however, it's advisable to have someone well versed with water chemistry to do the job.

Water Temperature: As compared to other tropical fishes, discus aquarium fish requires higher temperature. This factor has to be kept in mind while selecting aquarium plants. In order to change the water temperature, all one has to do is adjust the heater's dial in the aquarium. The temperature level should be checked twice a day, with the help of a digital thermometer. Conventional thermometers are not precise, thus not recommended. For discus fish display, the temperature range is 27.5 to 29C and 30 to 33C for the breeding time.

Water Changes: Water changes are to be carried out on a weekly basis, so as to ensure the health of the discus fish. A water change replaces the stale water with fresh water, thereby discarding the impurities from the aquarium. However, the discus fish does not like changes, so one should only change 25% of the tank volume at a time. One should also clean the bottom of the tank as well as suck up the debris without disturbing the fish to a great extent. Being noisy while cleaning the tank will stress the fish out (sounds are amplified in water).

Chlorine and Chloramine: Local water supplied to most of the regions in the US, are fine for discus fishes. However, in certain areas chloramines (blend of chlorine and ammonia) are added to the water, which is deleterious for the fish. The presence of chloramine can be tested via a tester available at the local aquarium shop. One can use a dechlorinating water conditioner to free the water of chlorine and chloramines.

Food and Nutrition: Discus fishes have small stomachs which can hold only small amount of food. Omega one flake food comprising salmon as the main ingredient is good for the fish and results into greater growth and color development. Frozen brine shrimp, frozen worms and heart food also make a good food sources for the fish. Generally, fishes need to be fed once in a day, however, these fishes exhibit voracious feeding patterns and have to be fed at least thrice a day.

Filtration: Some use chemical filtration media for holding harmful substances, which are discarded during water change. Some even use carbon filtration media to remove the medications or toxins. This carbon filtration media should only be used for a short duration before removal. The power filters used in the aquarium should be furnished with adequate amount of biological filter media. This can be done by purchasing the biological filter media sold for canister filters. This will convert the market power filter (which lacks enough biological filter media) into a suitable discus aquarium filter media. If the Discus fish is fed on beef-heart, one needs to make sure the leftovers are discarded.

These were some basic discus fish care tips. Besides the above mentioned points, one should also note that the discus fishes are social creatures and need to be kept in groups. One should not introduce a lone discus into a tank filled with various other types of fishes. Lone discus fish will survive without their community, however, it will not be happy. After taking care of discus fish for a while, one can even try out breeding discus fish. However, before one gets into breeding them, one needs to master the art of maintaining the right environmental water conditions for the fish. Though discus fish care requires diligence, it is an overall rewarding experience. Hope this article on how to take care of discus fish was helpful and informative! Take care!

The Effectiveness of Live Rock in Reef Aquariums

Live rock is not just a decoration for reef aquariums but can be an extremely useful addition to saltwater systems. It is collected from the vicinity of a coral reef and consists mostly of aged coral rubble (branches or masses of reef-building coral skeletons) of varying sizes. It varies in quality depending on location from which it was collected. The surface of the rock is often brilliantly colored with calcareous algae, macroalgae, sponges, and even small corals. Burrowing organisms such as worms and crustaceans create a labyrinth of caves and tunnels through the rock, often giving it a very porous nature. On the exterior of the rock and in the open pores where water circulation makes oxygen available, aerobic nitrifying bacteria can be found in large numbers. These bacteria perform the nitrification that is present in virtually any biological filter. An interesting benefit to live rock is that it also harbors live anaerobic denitrifying bacteria in its deep recesses that break down nitrate molecules.

Live rock is an excellent addition to the sump of a central water system. At times I have relied solely upon it to filter the water in my aquarium. It is best, however, to rely on live rock as an enhanced source of natural filtration. The bottom of the sump can be covered with cured live rock that is void of organisms that require high light levels. Room light is usually enough to keep certain algae species alive, but a fluorescent light can improve the growth of these plants and also the nitrification of wastes. Live rock is not without disadvantages. The burrowing organisms within the rock secrete waste and when packed tightly together drastically reduce flow rates through the rock. Over time nitrogenous wastes can build up in crevices of the rock. Weekly or monthly purging of the rock will keep these wastes from becoming harmful.

Live rock should not be added directly to broodstock aquariums, as many demersal spawners will place their eggs on or within the rock. For species such as dottybacks, whose eggs must be removed for hatching, the rock makes this task extremely difficult. Gobies will find the tiniest of holes to spawn in, and removal of the fish or the spawn becomes a daunting task.

Macroalgae Filters in Saltwater Aquariums

Much debate and alarm have been raised about the destruction of wetlands, mangrove forests, seagrass beds and saltmarshes. These habitats are vital to the survival of coral reefs. Terrestrial waste products leach into ground water where they eventually reach the shoreline. As the water trickles past the roots and leaves of these plants, most of the waste products such as nitrates and phosphates are stripped from the water. This concept can be used to filter aquarium water as well.

Many plant filters have been created for use in freshwater aquariums. There is no single-best design for these filters, but the concept is simple. Plants are to grow either fully submerged in the sump (aquatic species) or propped up so their roots penetrate the water's surface and strip ammonia, nitrogen, phosphates and other toxins from the water. Freshwater tanks are easily filtered with a great variety of plants. Fitting a marine aquarium with a plant filter is more difficult, since relatively few plants can tolerate sea-water. There are a few plant candidates for such filters that may or may not be suited to every marine enthusiast. These filters require a lot of space and may not fit in a small fish room.

These natural filters should not be the sole means of filtration, but are worth the time to set up. The easiest way to benefit from plants is to place a handful of Caulerpa or Chaetomorpha in the sump over some live rock, give it some light and allow it to flourish. These aquatic macroalgaes rapidly if supplied with the right conditions. The faster the plants are allowed to grow, the more waste products they will remove from the water. Frequent pruning will ensure waste removal and facilitate new growth. More elaborate systems can be set up, but simplicity of maintenance is a key issue in selection. Algae turf scrubbers remove ammonia, nitrates and phosphates, but are not easy to acquire and can be difficult to maintain.

Caution should be taken with plant filters as pH and dissolved oxygen levels may be drastically altered by the addition of a mass of photosynthesizing plants. Drastic changes can be prevented with a timer to light plants only at night or when the aquariums are unlit.

Top 7 Aggressive Cichlids Commonly Known

With the large number of cichlid breeds, it is just natural that there would be a few that will stand out. In the aggressive category, there are those that one would find to be more challenging to take care of. Aggressive cichlids are sometimes hard to handle especially for beginners. However, cichlids enthusiasts are also interested in them probably because of the challenge they pose.

According to cichlid forums, the aggressiveness of particular cichlid species might differ in given scenarios. But to give you an overview, here are some of the cichlid breeds that are considered to be the kings of their tanks.

1. Nandopsis beani
Nandopsis beani has consistently been included in the most aggressive cichlids lists by expert keepers. There are a lot of comments that these cichlids are really one of the toughest of them all. Most experts are also one with saying that they should not be mixed with other fish species.

2. Telmatochromis Dhonti
Other than its 6-inch size, the Telmatochromis Dhonti is also making waves when it comes to the aggressive department. This particular cichlid specie is said to have strong jaws that makes it easy for them to tear down its opponent. It's also a bad idea mixing them with other aggressive cichlids unless you want to see them squabble.

3. Neolamprologus Christyi There have been a lot of remarks regarding Neolamprologus Christyi. Everything seem to point out that this cichlid specie is not something to mess up with. Size does matter with this 7-inch bully as it can really pick on other smaller fishes. Neolamprologus Christyi can also take on the equally competitive Telmatochromis Dhonti.

4. Tilapia buttikofferi
Tilapia buttikofferi may be underrated because it takes an expert to know that they are really aggressive. Some see this cichlid breed as easier to handle because their competitiveness subside when they are placed in a large tank. However, most enthusiasts agree that it won't be a good idea to put them with other aggressive fishes since they aren't tolerant of bullying.

5. Amphilophus festae
This cichlid type is known for its nasty temper. They are believed to be milder than their relative like Nandopsis haitiensis but they aren't too friendly either. Their temper becomes more challenging to handle when they reach their mature phase.

6. Amphilophus labiatus
This cichlid specie has earned the respect of most cichlids keepers. Common comments center on it being nasty and short-tempered. These cichlids would require a lot of attention especially if you plan on mixing them with other tank-dwellers who are not as aggressive.

7. Crenicichla strigata
It might be vicious to have this cichlid type in your tank if you have other fishes around. Crenicichla strigata has the power to kill its competitor with great ease. Its natural domineering qualities would have your other fishes bidding goodbye one by one.

Fish keepers should respect that cichlids have their own personalities too. There might be general information about them but it is still best to observe their attitude closely. After all, your pets very well deserve your attention.

How to Keep Your Koi Fish Pond Clear

One of the most asked questions I get from people who own Koi ponds, is "how to you keep your Koi pond so clear"? The very first thing that I ask them is how many fish do you have in your pond and how what is the size of your pond. Keeping a pond clear is really a many step process. I have listed a few suggestions below.

First you must keep your fish waste to a minimum using the rule of thumb that one 12 inch Koi per 100 gallons of water. Most people always have more fish than their pond can handle waste. The only other way that you can alleviate this problem is to make sure your pond has a bottom drain system. This means your pump is outside of the pond. A good bottom drain system will increase the flow of water which will cycle your water more per hour.

Another important part of the pond system is your filtration. Without good filtration the waste you pick up by your pump can end up right back in your pond. I am an advocate of bigger is better, and that is also true for your pond. Next time you visit your local pond store look at the pond filters; you will see 500, 750, 1000, meaning gallons of water they can handle. Why not purchase a pond filtration system that will handle 500 gallons more than the water in your pond. However, you always want to match your pump to the filter system you buy.

Now I am going to let you in on a little secret. I use a multi-stage filtration system and in the second to last stage I use lava rock. Lava rock is great for filtering out very small particles that may get by your mesh filters, thus making your pond even clearer! But, that is not my secret; my real secret is alfalfa. If you place a tightly woven amount of alfalfa into your Koi pond, you will be amazed of how it reacts to break down waste. I even have a small ball of alfalfa in my filter box.

Using these few ideas above you should be able to maintain a wonderful environment for your Koi fish. Now you know how to keep your Koi pond clean with healthy fish that you can enjoy for many years to come. This is how I learned about pond maintenance from other people who also want to enjoy their garden pond. Feel free to explore my other resources at my website listed below.

What To Consider When Buying a 100 Gallon Aquarium

When planning to buy a 100 gallon aquarium tank, whether you are keeping one just for fun, appearance, or for commercial reasons, you need to be sure to understand how to maintain it. Appropriate maintenance of a 100 gallon aquarium will guarantee a healthy surrounding for the pet fish and live rock to live in it. Before making the decision to buy a 100 gallon aquarium, here are various points that need to be kept in mind:

When you look online, there are lots of different sorts of 100 gallon aquarium tanks to choose from. Not only do they appear in a wide range of prices, but they're not manufactured from only glass nowadays.

The Construction

The more old fashioned types of 100 gallon tanks is going to have a metal framework which helps to to keep the sheets of glass that help to make the fish tank bond together. Usually, the metal structural part for these sorts of tanks are composed of either of angle steel or chrome steel, which are glued together at the corners of the frame and the glass will then position into it. As a way to prevent water from seeping out of the aquarium fish tank, a putty aquarium tank substance is used around the 4 corners of the glass and the metal construction. Even so, if these aquariums are not set on a even spot then the shape can begin to contract and might end up in the glass shattering. Occasionally the construction of a 100 gallon aquarium tank can be manufactured from wood, and generally plywood is chosen because it is less likely to burst apart if it interacts water.

Resources Used Today

Nowadays, most 100 gallon fish tanks are being constructed from acrylic substance. Most of these tanks built from this material may cost more in a few situations depending on other suppliers, but they weigh less than glass constructed aquariums and are less likely to break.

Peacock Cichlid Fish Tank Setup in Just Ten Steps

Okay first is the inventory you will need to complete before getting started. Below you will find all the equipment you'll need get simple basic Cichlid fish tank up and functional.

Fish Tank Shopping List:
20 Gallon Aquarium
Aquarium gravel or sand
Aquarium filter
Replacement filters
Heater
Decorations (such as hardy plants, flower pots, mini caves and other structures)
Flat stones and limestone
Aquarium test kits to test water parameters and monitor the infamous aquarium nitrogen cycle
Cichlid fish food (consult with your pet store owner)
Aquarium vacuum
Net
Aquarium Glass Scrubber
5-gallon buckets
Plastic Strainer

STEP 1: Plan your set and maintenance

Setting up and maintain a successful Cichlid fish tank is not at all, with this easy to follow road map. All your effort will be very rewording. Don't get me wrong work is required to create this wonderful environment for you and your fish. It's very important task to keep your fish tank clean.

Get a calendar and mark out a plan of action for dates to clean your fish tank. This will make it easy to keep up with your tank cleaning schedule. Here is your maintenance plan; clean the glass, pump and filter once a week, or at most once every two weeks. Every month change at least 25 present of the tank water. Everyday add feed for your fish. You will also have to feed your fish at least once a day.

STEP 2: 20 gallon aquarium is best for the newbie Cichlid owner

Cichlid are aggressive, this size tank gives everyone a little room to room. It's to introduce a small group rather that a pair of fish. Here is where the decorations like plans, mini caves, stones and overturned pots can help with places for your Cichlids to hide and retrieve as they did in the wild.

STEP 3: What does location have to do with your fish tank?

Your number one goal is to keep your fish healthy and vibrant. Temperature plays a huge role in the overall health of your aquarium. It's extremely important you choose a location not exposed to any kind of heat sources especially direct sunlight. Avoid lights of any type that gives off heat of any kind sort.

Green algae will kill your fish, warm water produces algae, keeping your fish tank at the right temperature and again cleaning will minimize algae growth. Soap can also promote algae toxics, so do not use soap when cleaning.

Your 20 gallon tank will weigh about 200 pounds, so make sure the location will support the weight of the fish tank.

STEP 4: Aquarium and equipment purchase.

A couple of points to make sure you pay attention to when buying your equipment. Get details form someone at the store you buy all these items. The filter hast to handle the size tank and amount of water it will have to keep clean.

Make sure the heater will get the job done and is reliable. You should get a UPS unit with multiple outlets for all your electrical components. I recommend a UPS unit that will serve as a power source if the power goes out. Based on the type of UPS unit you get it will support your tank and equipment for up to 8 hours without power.

STEP 5: Aquarium stand and setup.

Remember no soap or any outer type of detergents. A good double wash and glass scrub before you put anything in the tank. If, you are using a stand as the platform of you aquarium, make sure to use the appropriate tools to tighten to manufacture's specs.

STEP 6: Everything gets washed!

Anything going into the tank permanently or temporally gets wash not just a mild rinsing I really mean washed. All, yes all plants live or fake, stones, gravel, pots, and parts of the filter that is exposed to the water. Again, I said everything that includes your hands. This step in short, be sure to wash everything thoroughly without soap or detergents that's it.

STEP 7: Fill the tank

After you placed your sand, stones, plants and decoration in the tank. Use tap water fill to recommend level. Some people like to use a bowl to break the flow of the water helping to keep things in place.

Let the aquarium stand for at least 24 hours. The tap water has chlorine and will dissipate overnight. Check the PH level to ensure the level are within scope.

STEP 8: Implementing equipment

Now take some time to read all instructions of the lamps, thermostat and water filter. It you never followed any instructions in your life. Follow the equipment instructions to install each device, because your Cichlid's life depends on your attention to details in the content of the equipment directions.

My two tips let the lamp and heater acclimate to the water temperature before you ever plug them in, let alone turning them on. Normal this can take about 20 to 30 minutes.

Now follow the instructions to install the tank filter. Now once everything setup.

STEP 9. Stabilization

Let stand one more 24 hour cycle. This will do two things. One ensures everything is working as advertised and guarantees the aquarium has stabilized. I know, but you have to wait just one a little longer before you add the fish.

STEP 10. Finally it time!

If, everything is in order, it's time to start introducing your fish to their new home. Add one or two fish at a time. Float the bags containing the fishes in the aquarium. This should be 5 to 10 minutes for each group. This gives the fish time to acclimate to the aquarium and gives your filtration system the time needed to take on the increased biological load that the new fish introduce.

Goldfish - One Fish With Many Different Varieties

Goldfish - Different types available

The goldfish apparently has an identity crisis. It is a fish with a single name, but many guises, some as extreme as to suggest that they belong to another species.

The goldfish has very humble beginnings, with its first natural mutation simply being a change in its colour. It dropped its brown demeanour for a yellow finish, and endeared itself to those who had initially reared it for food.

What has emerged since from such chrysalis-like beginnings has been a string of varieties with wild permutations in colour, shape and form. Even though these varieties do not resemble each other, it is easy to be carried away into thinking these are different species. Not so. So packed with gems were first goldfishes' genetic treasure chests that hidden in such meager packaging were the many fancy varieties based on the same theme. Coming at it biologically, all of the varieties of goldfish can be successfully interbred to produce viable offspring, which will continue to amaze and confound in the sheer diversity of varieties produced.

Over the years, breeders have concentrated on producing different varieties of goldfish by changing any of the physical features. Whatever the goldfish's feature, it has probably been mutated to produce a different variety at one time or another. Eye shape and position, body colouration and scalation, body shape, fin size, shape and number have all been changed to produce a different variety of goldfish.

The different varieties of goldfish can be divided quite practically into two groups. Those that will live and thrive in a garden pond (including over wintering) and those that will not, and are best kept in an aquarium full time or brought in for the pond to overwinter inside. This latter group are referred to a fancy goldfish in the trade and will generally be displayed for sale in aquaria rather than open topped troughs and tanks.

1). Goldfish varieties safe for the pond.

There is a general rule of thumb in recognising whether a goldfish variety is suitable for a pond. If it resembles the overall typical shape of a goldfish, but shows differences in colour or even fin length, then it is likely to be hardy enough to tolerate UK winters and fast enough to compete for food in a pond.

Examples of these fish include:-

The common goldfish.
Typically a very evenly pigmented fish with short and sturdy fins and tail. Often available in a number of different colour variations where other colours such as white and black appear on top of the original golden colouration.

The Comet goldfish.
These have been bred for a long tail fin, which in larger specimens may be half the length of the whole body. Comets are rarely one colour, but will regularly display white and red patterns that are more pronounced when viewed from the top. Furthermore, the comet's colour is usually more red than gold.

Shubunkin.
Compared with the other previous goldfish varieties, the Shubunkin is extremely distinctive in its colouration, with much variation occurring between individual fish. Rather than being gold, Shubunkins are blue where the colour appears to come from beneath the scales rather than from above as in the traditional goldfish. The Shubunkin has a black and orange mottling set on the bluish 'mother of pearl' like background. I remember when I first saw Shubunkins, that I was put off because their imperfect and random patterning made them appear diseased!

2). The fancy gold fish.

These are more distant relatives of the goldfish and been selected to exhibit some extreme physical features. These fish are so in-bred that they lack the vigour of their distant relatives. They will not tolerate a British winter in a pond.

Examples of these fish include:

A. Orandas
When viewed from above, their double-tail looks like a butterfly. They can adopt a variety of colours, including calico, which resembles a Shubunkin.

B. Blackmoor
Similar in shape to an Oranda, this black fish has bulbous eyes that project from the head.

C. Lionheads
These have a development on their head similar to the mane of a male lion. They too have a twin tail, but lack a dorsal fin.

D. Bubble Eyes, Pom-Poms and Celestials
These are all fancy goldfish in the extreme. Where breeders have selected for wild variations in head and eye developments.

What To Do When Your Reef Tank Has A Bad Case of Cyanobacteria (Slime Algae) and Diatoms

If you plan on keeping a saltwater aquarium for any amount of time, whether it is a reef tank or a fish-only with live rock tank (FOWLR), you are likely to experience an outbreak of cyanobacteria and diatoms. Cyanobacteria or "Cyano" is also referred to as green slime algae (also comes in red and brown). As it's name implies, Cyanobacteria covers rocks and sand with a thin slimy film. And while it is easily removed by siphoning, if the conditions that support it are not improved, then it will quickly return.

Cyanobacteria and diatoms are brought on by the following factors:

- high phosphate (>.5) and silicate
- high nitrates (>25ppm)
- insufficient current/water movement
- high organics
- low alkalinity (<3.0>

Three products that work to treat the symptom (not the cause - see above) are as follows:

- Chemiclean, which will eradicate the cyanobacteria (reef safe - we've used it in our service business for years)

- Granular Ferric Oxide (removes phosphate and silicates) - we prefer Rowaphos, but there are other brands that work as well too. This is great for removing phosphate, although a bit expensive. Remember to focus on lessening the source of input of phosphate into your system (i.e. tapwater and foods). For tapwater we filter with RODI (target is zero TDS). As for the foods, we strongly recomment rinsing your frozen foods prior to feeding. You'd be amazed at the amount of gook (scientific term) that would otherwise go into your tank/system.

- Doxicyclene hyclate - it has been years since I've used this for treating RTN (rapid tissue necrosis) in corals, but we also noticed that it was great for temporarily eradicating cyanobacteria. I say temporary, because this is just treating the symptom and not the cause. As long as the original cause (see above) is still there, the cyano will likely return.

If your type of saltwater tank is a fish-only with live rock (FOWLR), you are always going to have significantly higher phosphates, nitrates, silicates and organics to deal with than you would in a reef tank - even if you had the same number of fish in a reef tank. This is because in FOWLR tanks, there are no (or very few) corals, sponges, coraline algae, clams, filter feeders, etc. to help remove nutrients from the water.

So with a FOWLR tank, you will need to be more aggressive with use of carbon, GFO (granular ferric oxide - removes phosphate) and with the removal of detritus. I strongly recommend "storming the tank" at least twice a month (during normal/ideal conditions), but I would recommend doing it once a month in your current situation.

What I mean by "Storming the tank", is putting a powerhead on a stick/pipe and blast the rock to liberate detritus that has collected in the live rock. And then having some type of mechanical filtration in use to remove the detritus now that it is suspended in the water column.

To do this you can use a canister filter, D.E. filter (diatomacious earth), or even a small powerfilter (hang-on-the-side). Or if you don't have any of these items, you can storm the tank with the powerhead and then siphon it off the surfact of the rock/sand as you do a large water change. With this method I recommend blasting with the powerhead twice during the water change, allowing it to settle out for siphoning between blasting.

So if you end up with an outbreak of cyanobacteria or diatoms in your reef tank or fish-only tank (FOWLR), consider yourself fortunate that it is just cyanobacteria and dyatoms, which are relatively easy to get rid of, and not something more difficult like bryopsis or hair algae. And remember, you are better off preventing than reacting.

The River Murray Rainbow Fish

The River Murray Rainbow Fish, Melanotaenia fluviatilis,is one of the many types of Australian Rainbow fish. This group mainly a tropical and subtropical group of fishes, but this Fish's range extends into warm temperate areas and it is able to take quite low water temperatures.

Origin

The River Murray Rainbow Fish is endemic to Australia. As its name suggests it is found in the River Murray. It is also found in many but not all of the Murray's tributaries and several other river systems and lakes.

Size

They can reach 10 cm (4 inches long), but most are smaller than this. The males tend to be bigger than the females.

Temperature

Most of the articles on the internet about this Fish suggest that a temperature of between 22 and 26 degrees C is ideal for this species. My experience suggests otherwise. Although this is a very versatile fish which will certainly live healthily in an aquarium, being treated as if it were a tropical fish, the specimens with the best colour tend to be pond fish, subject to the natural rise and fall of temperature with the different seasons as well as the different weather.

Water Conditions

This fish is able to take a wide range of conditions. Most of the places it occurs naturally have a high pH and the water is quite hard. In an aquarium I suggest that the pH should be between 6.8 and 8. Excessively soft water is not ideal, but most tap waters will be of a suitable hardness. As with all fish, the Chlorine or Chloramine needs to be removed before it comes into contact with the fish.

Food

This is an omnivorous fish. Like many of its relatives it eats more plant material than most tropical fish. They will live on either Tropical or Goldfish food, but this should be supplemented with vegetable matter. Duckweed (Lemna species) is eaten very readily by this Fish. They also like many types of vegetable. I cook the harder vegetables enough to soften them. Zucchini are eaten as are cucumber, green peas and other vegetables. Like many fish they also relish insect larvae like mosquito larvae, small crustaceans like daphnia, and small worms. Our River Murray Rainbow Fish get frozen blood worms once a week as well as frozen brine shrimp once a week on a different day.

An Ideal Pet Rabbit Cage

If you know what you are looking for, purchasing pet rabbit cages is not at all difficult. If you are an experienced pet owner then you need to have right knowledge on size, shape and material of cage. In order to know more about rabbit cages, you should follow tips mentioned in the following paragraphs. They will be of great help in choosing the right cage for your rabbit.

Nowadays, besides the type of material as well as the size, people are also opting considering the fashion aspect. You have to make a homey cage for the rabbit. Comfort is no doubt one of the most important aspects to be considered when you opt for these cages, but so is fashion. You will find plenty of trendy cages available in the market these days.

Bigger cages are no doubt recommended, but it's not that you have to opt only for the bigger cages; sometimes smaller cages prove to be better than bigger ones. Rabbits and bunnies are very restless and fidgety, thus you have to choose the size of the cage accordingly.

Your pet rabbit grows gradually, so it can outgrow the cage. Thus, you need to dump the old one and buy a new and a spacious one to meet all your expenses. So keeping these things in mind you need to get hold of a buffer sized rabbit cage. A frail one will involve braking of the cage and it will force you to shell out more extra money. Ventilation should be proper as you don't want your pet to feel suffocated inside the cage. If they cages are aerated appropriately this implies that they have fresher air to breather. You need to also wrap your pet rabbit in a comfortable way otherwise he will die due to cold.

You will find lot of rabbit cages that are made of net walls and wire floors. Wood floor cages are more preferred than wired ones. Wire cages can leads to skin cuts and endure fur loss. The base of the floor should be sturdy and lightweight.

You should make sure that the cages you are buying should be weather resistant also. Rust is one of the most common problems in these cages. So make sure you only opt for high quality cages.

Love Rabbits

Rabbits are among the most adorable pets. They are very soft natured. However, there might be many reasons behind changing behavior of rabbits. This article will make you aware of some of the most common reasons behind changing behavior of rabbits.

One of the major reasons might be that your pet has not been neutered or spayed. Whenever you buy a baby rabbit, you will notice a sudden change in his behavior or personality once he or she attains the age of 3-4 months. The cause of the change of the behavior is that he undergoes a hormonal change and age of reproduction. During this phase, rabbits tend to become territorial and resists being picked up. Thus, you should not try to touch it too much. If you want to make him happy then you should put a nice treat inside the cage.

Female rabbits in particular get rebellious and they growl sometimes. Many pet owners assume that the rabbit is mean and they want to get rid of it as soon as possible. However, once it passes this phase he will cool down and will return to its normal composure. So you have to adjust to his changing habits when he is in the transition phase.

It might be very much possible that your rabbit is sick. Changing behaviors is a vital sign of medical fitness. So if your rabbit is showing a nasty behavior then do check whether he is ill or not. He might be in pain. His eating bowl and litter box are the two areas which you should check, any change in the regular eating or filling habits needs to be checked. Even small problems like mites and fleas may upset your rabbit. To counteract this, you need to get the medical checkup of your pet done.

Another reason might be that your rabbit is under some stress. Sometimes rabbit is not too comfortable with the presence of other pets. Sometime barking dogs tend to irritate the pet rabbits and thus you should make sure that they are comfortable in their cages or homes. Noise causes irritation in pets, thus make necessary arrangements. In this case, you have to move the cage to a silent room.

Rabbits are silent, soft natured and loyal. They also love to play and interact with people. All they require is little love and care and everything will work for sure.

Getting a Hamster and Giving It Your Best

Your hamster deserves the best. Now you have decided on the Hamster, you will need to think comfort. If you want it to have the best possible experience you need to consider its living environment. For the most part you will need to have the right accessories in your hamsters cage.

This will ensure that your new pet has a luxury living experience and is not hampered by any unnecessary injuries that could have been avoided. The Hamster is a very cute pet to buy, and will bring joy and happiness to the whole family.

Here is something to consider when buying cage accessories

When you decide to get a cage for your Hamster, you need to think about the things that you put in the cage. What you put in the cage will keep your pet occupied. There are a number of things that you can look at such as accessories for climbing. There are a number of different climbers that can be put in a Hamsters cage so its up to you to find the best one.

The different types of accessories may involve, tubing, hamster wheels and tunnels, which will keep your pet occupied. All of these will provide plenty of variety for your pet. When you have the right balance of accessories in the cage you can sit back and watch the Hamster play the whole day. Its a nice sight to see your pet happy.

Buying accessories for a Hamsters cage is an important part of having this pet. You will need to think carefully about what you put in the cage. Having the wrong accessories in a cage may cause more harm than good. You should stay away from anything that your hamster could potential get its foot trapped in.

HOME » Pets How To Serve Pet Supplements

Pet supplements can be easy for any animal to take advantage of. Many supplements for cats and dogs can work with easy to handle formulas that will not be too difficult for a person to prepare. Here is a look at how a person can easily serve one of these supplements.

A person will need to take the formula and prepare it without any additional materials. Most of these pet supplements will be in liquid forms. This is a form that will be easy to handle and measure. This can be simple for anyone to use when preparing something for one's pet.

A typical supplement should be shaken before it is given out. This is so the supplement will have all of its contents in an area. This is needed to ensure that the pet supplement will work properly. It is so the right ingredients will be in the mixture. This is critical because of how some ingredients can bind with each other during the settling process.

A correct measurement will be needed after the supplement is ready. The measurement will vary according to the weight of the pet. For example, two teaspoons of a supplement could be used for an animal who is fifteen pounds in weight or less. Meanwhile, one tablespoon could be used for an animal that is 16 to 30 pounds in weight. Four tablespoons can be used for a pet that is 31 to 50 pounds. One ounce, or two tablespoons, should be used for one that is 51 to 100 pounds in weight. Some special types of supplements will be needed for people who are 101 pounds or greater in weight.

A good part of serving supplements is that they can be mixed in some drinks. A good supplement can be mixed in a water dish. This may be used to make it easier for an animal to use the supplement. This is critical because of how some animals might not be fully interested in some kinds of pet supplements due to their flavors.

Many supplements can even be mixed into food bowls. This is where a supplement can be added to a food that is already wet. This is especially useful for animals that eat wet food over dry food. This can work to make the supplement get added into a pet's diet without any concerns. It is much easier to do this for wet food than with dry food.

It is smart to see how supplements can be served. These supplements can be handled in ways that involve getting one to receive the right materials in a supplement in an effective manner. Be sure to see this factor when getting a supplement to work for your pet's needs.

Arowana Care: Weighing Whether or Not to Use Tank Substrate in Your Arowana

Most people do not like the idea of putting tanks substrate in their Arowana tank. This is because the presence of such will require additional efforts in terms of maintaining the tank. Considering the fact that Arowana tanks are generally big in size, this additional measure is a substantial undertaking. Tank substrates require such because it gathers toxic waste. Also, given the rate and manner in which these tanks are sullied by its occupants, the presence of substrates can aggravate the effect of a malfunction in the filtration system into proportions lethal to the Arowana.

The physical size of the Arowana tank, the filtering system, and the Arowana itself ultimately determine the frequency in which the tanks substrates will need to be cleaned. For example, if the filtration system is poor, toxic buildup occurs faster, hence the tank substrates need to be cleaner more often. As a general rule, vacuuming of the substrate needs to be done at least once every 10 days.

Is the extra trouble worth keeping the substrate? In answer, you should consider that it is very beneficial for the Arowana if you can give it a bottom reference point in the form of the tanks substrates. This is a common belief among many Arowana enthusiasts and is the reason why most of them undertake the extra work nevertheless.

A very good argument for keeping substrates in your Arowana tank is that it is the best option for giving a "bottom" for your pet fish. Extra work or not, it is healthy for the fish to have a bottom. In lieu of substrate, you may paint the lowest part of the outside of your tank. This method achieves the same goal as the substrate. However, in terms of the aesthetic schema, it is easy to change, replace, or remove the tank substrate while the paint option is irreversible.

Arowana Care: Test Your Arowana Tank Water

The Arowana is a prized fished that requires special attention especially in terms of water care. The unfortunate end of such a pet means not only moral turmoil for the owner but also the laying to waste of a considerable amount of investment. This is why any grower or owner of the Arowana should invest much effort in making sure that the Arowana tank is safe for the fish. The best way to do this is testing the water regularly. Ideally, testing should be done at least once a week.

This minimum requirement is based on the principle that the more times you check the water, the better chances you have catching an anomaly in time. This will enable you to solve or remedy these water problems before they adversely affect the Arowana. It is much preferable for any person to fix water conditions in the Arowana tank instead of having to remedy the resulting ailments in the fish later.

Before testing the water, you should know what to test for. Elements which are deemed to be harmless to us humans or negligible in other pets may prove to be quite detrimental for Arowanas. Ammonia, nitrate and nitrate are only a few elements to watch out for. You should also keep the temperature of the water in your Arowana tank constantly in check.

Fortunately for the Arowana enthusiasts, this task is made easier and cheaper by innovative manufacturers that have come up with test kits that test for these elements instantly. Now, constant checking is both easy in terms of time, effort and resources. You don't have to go to laboratories and wait for results anymore. The only thing you need to do is to keep these test kits in good condition. Follow the guidelines for storing these kits closely to get the most accurate results.

The Arowana fish is easy to keep, but hard to master when it comes to bringing out its best colors. Expose your Arowana's true colors using the simplest, laziest but most effective Arowana fish techniques.

Don't Buy Your BiOrb Aquarium Until You Read This

If you don't have the time to gather together all of the equipment that you need to setup a standard home or office aquarium or if you are a beginner aquarist and you need aquarium setup to be straightforward or perhaps you don't want to spend hours every month maintaining your aquarium then the BiOrb aquarium range is ideal for you.

Not only do all of the BiOrb range look stunning but they also have a unique built in 5 stage filter system that keeps the aquarium water crystal clear. In addition they come with special ceramic 'gravel' which is porous and is able to hold a very large number of the friendly bacteria responsible for keeping ammonia and nitrite levels down. Maintenance wise all that is necessary is to change the filter cartridge when specified and to change some of the water every month to keep down the nitrate levels.

The biggest thing to remember is that the BiOrb range is totally made up of relatively small aquaria compared with normal size glass tanks. The biggest mistake that you can make with a BiOrb tank is to fill it with far too many fish, much more than the filter and aeration system can handle. Even one goldfish in a baby BiOrb is too much and of course fish grow and can easily outgrow your BiOrb aquarium. Some fish, whatever their size are just not suitable, they may need lots of plants or more water than the BiOrb can provide.

So here is a list of advantages:

Good design and excellent lighting effects consistent through the whole BiOrb range
The baby BiOrb will fit where other tanks won't
Everything you need is in the box including full instructions
The BiOrb range is made from plexiglas acrylic which is ten times stronger than glass
The filter cartridge is easy to clean and change
The 5 stage filtration system keeps the fish healthy and reduces maintenance
and disadvantages:

BiOrb quality and design does not come cheap
The small size of these tanks limits your choice of fish and their numbers
The top opening of the globle shaped tanks can make cleaning more difficult
Conclusion

Taking everything into account there is no doubt that these aquariums look great, particularly with the special lighting effects provided by the intelligent LED lighting. For an easy entry into the wonderful world of aquarium keeping they can certainly be recommended.

Learn More About Blaptica Dubia

If you have pets like geckos or chameleons, then you will need insects to feed them. They are insectivores so they like to eat bugs and in this case, live bugs. If you feed them canned crickets or mealworms, it just won't work. Feeding your pet Dubia roaches is a good option. So what are Dubia roaches? Blaptica Dubia or Dubia roaches are a roach species which can be found in Central and South America. They are also called Guyana Spotted Orange Roach. They can grow up to 1.5 inches to 2 inches and after adulthood they can live up to a year. Their size is one of the reasons why this is a good feeder roach. You will not have any problems feeding your geckos, tarantulas or monitors.

The Blaptica Dubia is a non-flying and a non-climbing insect. However, the adult male dubia has wings but it just flutters a relatively short distance while the female dubia don't have wings, only stubs. It's easy to distinguish the difference between the male and the female Dubia. A good thing about these feeder roaches is that they don't emit any foul odor plus they won't make any noise unlike crickets. So even if you have a lot kept in a glass tank, it won't be a problem. These feeders have become quite popular because of its protein. Their shells are soft which is easy to digest. It is ideal that you feed them, twenty-four hours prior to feeding your pets so that your pet is going to get a good quantity of protein.

They like to eat fresh fruits, cereals, dog food and even fish flakes. These can be mixed all together or can be rotated. Just make sure that you get rid of old food, since mold can harm these insects. You can also purchase diets for them online. These insects can be housed in a plastic container or a glass tank. Just secure an egg crate for them to breed. They should have adequate humidity and you have to mist the container from time to time to keep the humidity level intact.

Different Cichlid Types You Should Know

There is no question that cichlids are fast becoming one of the most popular pet fishes. This is just understandable given the lovable characteristics of cichlids. If you want to follow the trend, you better acquaint yourself to the different cichlids types. The ones below can be considered as the most popular types of cichlids. Check to see if one of them is the one that you would like to have on your own.
• Discus fish
The Discus fish is a common choice because they are very sociable. You see, most cichlid breeds are aggressive and dominant so they are usually hard to incorporate with other fishes. Although discus fishes live in large groups, they are really very fond of schooling. The best tip when taking care of discus fish is to ensure that you get at least three of them. Their fish personality dictates that they be part of a group. Having two or only one cichlid in an aquarium would only make the discus fish sad and lonely.

• Angelfish Cichlid
You probably know it as angelfish but this type is very much a part of the cichlid breed. What you should understand is that Angelfish Cichlid is the more obvious choice for people who want fish pets that are relaxed. They are not too aggressive that most people fall in love with their natural grace. Angelfish Cichlids are also very elegant.

• Convict Cichlid
These types of cichlids are the most appealing to beginning cichlid owners. You see, Convict Cichlids are very much easy to keep. They also require low maintenance duties. The only downside is that you need to put on effort in decorating its new home. As much as possible, your tank must be very similar to its natural habitat-rocky with caves and substrate. Convict cichlids often burrow themselves so make sure you give them enough space to play around.

• Dwarf Cichlid
The Dwarf Cichlid is probably one of the most challenging to keep. However, most breeders prefer them over other cichlid types because they are less aggressive than some of its relatives like the Bolivian cichlids. They are also easy to mix with other fishes as long as they are compatible with each other. Although quite active, dwarf cichlids are very popular among breeders and cichlids enthusiasts.

• Jack Dempsey
Jack Dempsey is obviously named after the well-known boxer. They are loved because of their colors. They usually have greenish pecks in their tan bodies while they are young. They turn to purple gray when they get more mature. Their green specks usually turn to gold during these times.

• Oscar Fish
The Oscar fish is one of the toughest varieties. Their best feature is that they can stand almost any kind of water types. They also grow beyond 18 inches. They also have wide food choices including live food, flakes and pellets. It is easy to know if you aren't feeding Oscar fishes enough. Their colors wouldn't be that bright if they are unhealthy. So, it's the sign to watch out for.

Knowing these cichlid types can really help you jumpstart your hobby as a cichlid collector.

Is your cichlid always sick and unhappy? Are you looking for resources to help care, keep and breed healthy and beautiful cichlids? Larry Pearson is an Expert Author and an authority on caring and breeding cichlid fish.

What Makes a Flowerhorn Lucky

Have you seen a flowerhorn? It is not a thorny flower found in the deepest recesses of the forest. Rather, it is a hybrid of various species of South American cichlids that was developed in Malaysia in the late 1990?s. The flowerhorn has a characteristic hump on the top of its head. There are also markings on the side of the fish. This unusual features of the flowerhorn adds to its charms. The flowerhorn cichlids has become one of the favorites of aquarists to care for. This is because of the relative ease in keeping them, as well as the associated luck it brings to those who own them.

There are different kinds of flowerhorn fish. There is the red dragon, the kamfa, the Thai flowerhorn also known as the Thai silk, and many more. These different types of flowerhorns share the same features.

The flowerhorn sale was at its highest in the early 2000. The hump on the fish?s head has been associated to the Chinese God of Longevity, Shou Xing. It also resembles the gourd the god carries with him which contains the water of life. The markings on the sides of the flowerhorn fish, on the other hand, resemble the Chinese characters and numbers. And in some rare occasions, they resemble the character for luck.

There were some occasions in the past where flowerhorn owners attributed their good fortune on the fish. A woman won the lottery. She claimed that the numbers she used were the numbers on the flowerhorn she owns. There are also business owners who experienced increase in sales since they placed a flowerhorn in their shop. With events like these happening around, the market for flowerhorns was stimulated.

Indeed the association between flowerhorn and of the great fortune some owners have amassed while caring for the fish is still an issue of dispute, there is no denying that the flowerhorn fish is becoming the favorite of many aquarists. There is no harm in believing that flowerhorns are lucky. Be it that you believe in luck or you just want to have a fine specimen in your aquarium. After all, there is no harm in trying. If you don?t win the lottery, at least you have a wonderful fish to have as a pet.