Canine Eyes

"An animal's eyes have the power to speak a great language", Martin Buber. Not all people love dogs or not even close to liking them. But some change their minds after some close encounters with the canine kinds. After all, they would not be called as man's best friend for nothing. There must have been things or events consistently happening to different kinds of people from all over the world (and under) that has made this adage so socially accepted.

There was once a story of a mother who hates it when dogs come near her. Belonging to a family who adores dogs, she tolerates her coexistence with them but takes no particular liking on owning them herself. She got married to a guy who shares her sentiment (could be the reason why they got married in the first place!). But their furry friend just wouldn't let go until their hearts are softened. It happened when their eldest daughter cajoled them into giving her permission to adopt a dog on her apartment where she was staying. On one of their visits to her apartment, the dog, though they were strangers to him, couldn't be as sweeter and as playful to the couple as to their daughter. They were so touched by the closeness of the two (the dog and their daughter) that they decided to extend their stay and try liking this mysterious dog as well. To their astonishment, it wasn't so bad after all. With his chocolate brown eyes that always seem to want to play and with all his sweetness, he won their hearts. All it took was constant staring at those eyes and alas, they started adoring him as well. 

The idea that the eyes are indeed the windows of the soul couldn't be truer than in this case. Dogs may not have souls but they act as though they do have one. What's worse is when a person acts as though he has no soul when he has one! This is one of the reasons why there are those who prefer dogs as their companions rather than getting a wife or a husband or maybe adopt a child. When they need silence, the comfort they get just by walking along side with their dogs or blankly staring at the wall, sitting on the sofa beside their dogs (as seen on movies), is incomparable. It so soothes their minds that they wouldn't exchange their dogs for a possibly nagging wife. Sometimes, just looking at the eyes of their pet dogs give them the comfort they need, for their eyes never lie (they don't know how anyway). For whatever language the eyes of the dogs speak of, they indeed bring comfort to those who need it, and that's as invaluable as a priceless gold.

Pet Boots and Shoes

Why dogs need pet boots and shoes 
In the winter time, especially in snowy areas, cities often put down chemical de-icers as well as salt on pavement. If you walk your dog on this pavement, his paws will become covered with this salt and chemicals. This causes problems for many dogs. Their paws can chafe and crack. You can use emollients on their paws to help them heal.
You can also use paw wax to help toughen the paws. And you need to wash your dog's paws when he walks on pavements where these chemicals are found. Do not let your dog lick his paws after he has been walking on pavement in the winter until they have been washed. These chemicals can be dangerous for your dog. You can also put pet boots or shoes on your dog when you walk him so you can keep his paws free of these chemicals. Boots and shoes will keep the salt and chemicals off your dog's paws so they won't crack and they will prevent your dog from ingesting the chemicals. 
In the summer, dogs who walk on hot pavement can appreciate wearing boots or shoes to keep their paws from getting too hot. Rain boots can also be a good idea if you want to keep your dog's paws dry. 
Senior dogs with arthritis or other mobility problems can often have trouble walking because they can't get enough traction on the floor. This is especially true if you have hardwood floors. If you put pet boots or shoes on your dog's paws, especially on his rear paws, it will often provide the traction he needs so he can walk again.
Some hunting dogs wear boots or shoes if they will be hunting in tough terrain that could injure their paws.  Of course, there are many boots and shoes that are made for fashion reasons. You can always buy them for your dog just because they look good.

Choosing boots and shoes 
Pet boots and shoes usually come in small, medium, and large sizes. You should choose the size that's appropriate for your dog. Some boots and shoes have Gore-tex or other gripping soles. These boots and shoes would be especially good for dogs that need good traction.
There are several good brands of dog boots and shoes. You can find them online or in pet stores. Brands include Guardian Gear, UltraPaws, and Muttluks. Some dog boots and shoes come in four-packs and some come in two-packs. Boots and shoes tend to be rather expensive but they do last a while.
Your dog may have trouble walking in the boots or shoes at first or try to remove them but most dogs quickly adjust to them. Elderly dogs should adapt and become more mobile as soon as they realize they can get their footing again.

Trimming Your Dachshund's Nails

I hear it time and again, "I won't trim my dachshund's nails because I can't handle the possibility of hurting him." With a little knowledge and patience, it will be a much less scary process for both of you. Your dog will pick up on your emotions, so the more nervous you are, the more nervous your dog will be. So take a breath, relax, and read this article.
  One grooming step that all dogs need is to have their nails trimmed regularly. This should be started right away when they are just weeks old. That is the responsibility of the breeder to get them used to the process. Depending on when the breeder will let their puppies go home, their nails should have been trimmed at least two or three times already. If you have found a good breeder, they will be handling their puppies all of the time anyway, so they should be well socialized and not afraid of having their nails trimmed. If your dog has not been properly socialized and is skittish when you try to trim their nails, you can slowly get them used to being handled for a trim. When you are sitting or lying with your dog, touch and hold their feet, one at a time, just so they can get used to you handling their paws. This process can go on for weeks before they are comfortable. When you start trimming your dachshund's nails, just take the tips off so there is very little chance of cutting too short. 
 You will need to make some plans before you decide to trim your dachshund's nails. One of these is what kind of trimmer to use. I do not recommend the use of a guillotine type trimmer as these are trickier to use and the nails can catch if your dog decides to move their foot at the wrong time.
The trimmer I like to use is the basic bypass trimmer, not a guillotine type. There are wide varieties to choose from, so pick the one you feel most comfortable with. Nail grinders are available, but they can be loud and it takes longer this way. It does leave a nice smooth surface; however, I would only recommend this for experienced groomers. 
 You should also buy some styptic powder while you are getting your trimmer. Even professional groomers and veterinarians will sometimes get the nail trimmed too short and the nail can start to bleed. The styptic powder will act as a clotting agent and will stop the bleeding fast. To use the powder, pinch some styptic in between your pointer finger and your thumb, gently grab your dog's foot with your other hand, and push the powder onto the bleeding nail and hold it there for 15 to 30 seconds. This should successfully stop the bleeding. If it still bleeds through, put more powder on the nail until it does stop bleeding. 
 If you have someone who can help you hold your dog while you do the trimming, that would be great. Since the dachshund's legs are short and do not stretch or bend as easily as other breeds, I recommend that your partner holds your dog vertically against their chest while supporting their but. Definitely use two hands! That way their paws are out front and easier to access. 
 Start by gently but firmly holding your dog's paw. Pushing softly on the pad of each toe will set the nail out further to give you better access to the nail. If your dog has white nails, you should be able to see where the quick is and trim the nail just a bit longer than the quick. If your dog has dark nails, you will want to start out a little further and trim off small bits until you get close enough that you can just barely see a lighter color on the inside of the nail. That means you are getting close to the quick. You should also be able to see how your dog's nail starts to curve just after the quick ends. That is a good guide on where to start trimming. Most dogs will still have their dew claws on their front feet, occasionally; a dog will have them on their back feet also. Do not forget to trim these dew claws every time. These claws can easily curve around and dig into your dog's leg if they get too long. 
If you go into this with confidence and patience, you will have a much better experience and your dog will be more comfortable and easier to handle. After just a few times, you will wonder why you were so worried in the first place.

Simple Tips To Help You Choose The Right Kittens For Sale

Twenty years is a very long time and very few people can live with the same person or animal for so long. Twenty years, what am I talking about? This is the expected lifespan of a cat. While these animals are not loved by many people, kittens for sale happens to be so sweet and cuddly and this happens to be the reason why many people make the wrong decision when choosing a lifelong partner. The deception only becomes clear after a few months when these furry little creatures begin to grow and their owners learn about their own little ways and personal behavior. Never be deceived by the way a kitten looks and some of the things you think about when purchasing puppies for sale comes into play when you are thinking to buy a kitten. 
Kittens for sale and how to choose the right one 
When buying a kitten, many people focus on one thing and one thing alone and that is how adorable and fluffy the kitten is. While this method can be used, if you are going to choose a kitten based on its outward appearance, you will need to do some things in order for you to maintain that beauty. A Moggy, for instance, requires daily brushing and grooming to keep them looking beautiful and it is advised that you only invest in one of these cats if you have the time to brush them on a daily basis. While you can choose kittens for sale base on their look, it is strongly advised that you do not because you cannot tell what traits they will have simply by looking on them. 
Once you have overlooked a kitten's outward appearance, you need to think about the environment that you will have the cat living in. Did you know that aggression in cats oftentimes come from the environment that they live in? Hard to believe but true; a gentle, friendly cat can inherit its genes from its mother or father but in most cases, these cats are the way they are because they grow around soft gentle people. When looking for kittens for sale, it is best to go with ones that have been in a situation where over four people have had a hand in their life thus far. 
This tip is recommended because kittens need to interact with a number of people in order for them to be friendly. If the kitten that you are buying has only been socialized with one or two humans, it will be very hard breaking it otherwise because the first two to seven weeks are the most crucial period in every cat's life. During this period, kittens learn most of their traits that will take them through the duration of their life.
When choosing kittens for sale, it is crucial that you take your household and lifestyle into consideration. Kittens that are confident and very outgoing will settle well in busy households and large families. Take your other family members into consideration as well and if you have children and other pets, keep in mind that it will take some time for the kittens to get use to them; therefore, you will need to be patient and gentle with your new kittens.

Canine Addison's Disease

Did you just get back from the veterinarian with a diagnosis that your dog has Canine Addison's disease? Did you say, "What in the world is that?" Maybe he even explained, but you're still unsure of what this diagnosis means to you and your pet. In this article you will see that, while dangerous, this condition can be treated and your pet can enjoy a long and healthy life.
Canine Addison's disease, also known as canine hypoadrenocorticism, is a condition in which the adrenal gland does not produce sufficient amounts of hormones. This is seen especially in case of dogs. Glucocorticoids and mineralocorticoids are the two types of hormones deficient with Addison's disease. Glucocorticoids (cortisol) regulates numerous systems in the body and deals with stress. Potassium and sodium are regulated by mineralocorticoids (aldosterone).

Some of the common signs and symptoms of this disease include 
- anorexia or weight loss 
- diarrhea or constipation. 
- more water consumption and urination.
- lack of appetite and lethargy. 
- low blood pressure, slow heart beat. 
- vomiting and muscle weakness. 
- hyperpigmentation. 


Symptoms way worsen during different times, but when left undiagnosed and improperly treated, it causes a severe health crisis. Primary confirmation of the Addison's disease is done by laboratory analysis which includes a complete blood count, serum cortisol concentration and serum chemistry profile. Common hematological findings with the disease includes lymphocytosis and eosinophilia. Addison's disease can be diagnosed by a series of blood tests. Adrenocorticotropic hormone stimulation test will give a definitive diagnosis for the disease. This test measures the levels of cortisol in two blood samples, before and after stimulation.
Electrolyte levels are to be monitored through the course of treatment. Treatment includes replacement of glucocorticoid and mineralocorticoid steroids. Supplementation of drugs include prednisone or prednisolone (glcocorticoid) and Percorten-V or Florinef (mineralocorticoid). Dogs with this disease are more prone to urinary tract infections which includes small volume urination, blood in the urine is not very common. 
The most concerned complications of Addison's disease include an Addisonian crisis. This may be due to environmental or emotional crisis. During this condition, the dog has to be hospitalized and given high doses of intravenous fluids and glucocorticoids to prevent dehydration and collapse. With the proper management and medication dogs with this disease can have a normal lifespan.

Dog Collar Vs Dog Harness: Which Is Best?

There are a lot of opinions flying around about which is the best method of controlling and training your dog. The dog collar, the dog harness and the halter are just some of the methods debated on. This is not intended to advise against one or the other but to point out a couple of things that should be taken into consideration before deciding.
To begin with, one benefit of the harness over the collar is that it is much harder for a dog to slip out of a harness than it is to slip a collar.
On the subject of walking and training your dog, some people swear by the harness for smaller dogs as they find they have much more control and can even lift the dog off the ground without harming the dogs fragile neck and spine. It should be kept in mind, however, that even though a harness may seem more gentle on a dog as it is not focusing all the stress on the neck, there have been reports of harnesses having a detrimental effect on some dogs, such as widening the chest, bolding the legs, and dislocations on some breeds of dogs, although these reports appear to be in the minority and seem to refer particularly to small dogs that pull. 
Larger dogs, particularly those that tend to pull constantly, can be harder to control with a harness than with a collar, and can end up taking the owner for a walk rather than the other way round, according to some large breed dog handlers. For this reason some long time large breed dog owners prefer to stick with the collar, however, there is the opinion that using a collar on a strong and constant puller can have detrimental effects on the dog's trachea, neck and spine. 
Another alternative is the halter harness. This finds favour with some owners of large pulling dogs, as it controls the head and, just as in leading a horse, controlling the head helps greatly in controlling the whole animal. 
There are other forms of collars, such as the choker, but I feel that you need to be extremely well informed and careful when using one of these. 
Whatever method you choose, your decision should be based on sound advice from professionals who have the welfare of your dog in mind. 
One more thing to bear in mind; whatever conclusion you may arrive at regarding the best way to train and walk your dog, it is hard to argue against using a dog harness when taking your dog in a car. You wear a seat belt to stop you flying through the windscreen in the event of a crash. Your dog will also become a living projectile in the same crash. Doesn't he deserve the same protection you have? 
To sum up: Whether you choose the collar or the harness, it is my opinion that thoughtful, gentle, yet thorough training in the early stages of your dogs life will lead to a happy and well-behaved dog that will not need drastic measures to be taken to control him in later life. 
I personally use a harness because I don't think I would like someone to throw a rope around my neck and yank me here and there.

For the Sake of Your Bunny, Make Yours an Indoor Pet!

There is a common misconception that pet rabbits belong in an enclosure outdoors, rather than indoors and this often results in neglected, aggressive and ultimately, a rabbit with a much shorter lifespan. If you want to purchase a rabbit for yourself or your child but insist on leaving it outdoors, this is a very good sign that a rabbit may not the best choice for you. There are several reasons for this.
When an animal rescue team receives a call from Animal Control or an individual concerned about rabbit neglect, over 90% of those calls are to save an outdoor bunny. We are expected to remove a rabbit the owner no longer can take care of properly and since it has lived outdoors for the duration of its life, it is usually too aggressive to place in a home or overcrowded shelter. It is wild in the sense it has not had much human interaction simply because it is too easy to ignore or neglect an animal you rarely see (except when you trudge outside to feed it). On the other hand, it is not truly wild because it cannot do anything a wild rabbit could do. It can't run for cover from predators, forage or instinctively protect itself the way a wild rabbit can do. 
It is impossible to discuss rabbits in any environment without mentioning child owners* because they are often the ones expected to care for what is not a starter pet. A bite from a rabbit that has been left outdoors with little stimulation or interaction, constantly fearful of nearby prey is often a biting rabbit. If it is a large rabbit (generally more than 6 pounds), a bite on small fingers very often requires stitches or medical attention. This is dangerous for everyone involved and sadly, the only recourse is to euthanize the aggressive rabbit. This is unfortunate because the bunny was often purchased by a parent who did very little research on rabbit ownership, but gave in to a child's pleas for a cute and cuddly bunny. This is very common when the animal was the result of an Easter purchase, as it tends to be an impulse buy as a result of watching too many candy commercials!* 
There are simply too many outdoor problems that can crop up that are easily missed because of the location of the cage. If the rabbit is outdoors and the adult or child grows bored with it, this is when we see frozen water dishes in the winter, forgotten feedings and other issues. In cold climates, water freezes within minutes and a rabbit will not get enough liquid from snow that made its way into the enclosure. In fact, if snow does actually make it into the hutch, that is a telltale sign there is not adequate protection from the elements. Any veterinarian can recount a multitude of stories of rabbits dying from renal failure or dehydration/hypothermia due to lack of fresh water. 
Never is the saying, "when a parent considers a pet for a young child, they should do so with the understanding it will eventually be mom and dad's responsibility to care for it", more true than when the pet is an outdoor rabbit. 
Rabbit owners who choose to leave their rabbit outdoors often know very little about their pet and by the time it is very ill, it is often too late to get proper medical care. Because a rabbit is a prey animal, its instinct is to hunker down and suffer silently so predators can't sense the injured or ill animal. A rabbit is always cognizant of its precarious place on the food chain. When in a physical crisis, buns will seek cover to hide from predators, hunch up in a ball and often grind their teeth in response to the pain (this is often excruciating if it is an intestinal blockage) and wait for the crisis to pass.
If the bunny is indoors, subtle signs of pain can be noted because an indoor rabbit is noticed by its owner more often due to simple logistics. Medical care can be given before it is too late. If you are used to walking by the rabbit cage and seeing your bun excitedly hop over to see you (as mine does), it is going to catch your attention pretty quickly if one day you find the poor fellow hunched over in the corner of the cage. How is this level of rabbit behavior noticeable with a rabbit in the backyard in a hutch? 
A rabbit does not need to come into direct contact with a predator to perish. When a cat, dog, hawk or fox is in the area, a bunny in an elevated hutch will often thrash about to get away from the predator, often fatally injuring himself in the process. If the thrashing about does not kill her, unrelenting fear (perceived or real) night after night will often cause shock set in and the rabbit will literally die from fear. Signs of shock in a rabbit are the following: Pale gums, very cool ears, glassy or closed eyes, weak pulse, increased rate of breathing and increased heart rate. Immediate transport to a vet clinic is crucial but almost always too late. An indoor rabbit will rarely encounter these traumas. 
Well meaning outdoor rabbit owners are uneducated if they believe an outdoor hutch is mimicking a natural living experience. However, if you simply will not bring your rabbit indoors, please make certain it is not in one of the standard hutches pet stores sell, as these are never large enough. One of our volunteers at the rabbit rescue took 3 abandoned rabbits and could not bring them indoors. She put them in the shed (think plenty of space) and with plenty of hay, ample hiding spaces and the own company of each other, these rabbits had long and happy lives. Her creativity and determination to keep them safe was commendable and she ALWAYS brought them indoors during the New England winter months or during heat waves. It wasn't ideal (they belong indoors all year), but she did not have a choice, as the poor bunnies were abandoned and she was saving them. 
That brings me to another crucial point. If you still insist on keeping your rabbit outdoors, be absolutely certain it is not alone without a companion. Rabbits are very smart and social creatures. Leaving it alone outside without interaction is truly a cruel fate. If they sense predators or get cold in cold weather, at least they can huddle together. However, if you do not have a shed-size shelter for your buns to feel safe, why do this to the animal in the first place? Keep the little guy indoors already!
Rabbits are easily litterbox trained and often do well with cats. My very large rabbit sleeps with both of my cats and in the two years I have enjoyed Bonsai, I have yet to see him urinate outside his litterbox. His room is odor free and to be honest, cats and dogs can be often be considerably dirtier. When he was rescued, he was left in a hutch by the owner who moved and left him to die. A neighbor called to report animal abandonment when the individual moved out and the bunny was left. It is important to note that animal cruelty is a felony in many states.
He was aggressive, bit the rescue workers and lunged at everyone (who could blame him?). His water bowl was completely dry. It was understood it would be most likely euthanized due to trauma, severe head tilt and maggots. The animal was in a horrible state and the beginning stages of shock. 
I took him home and a vet donated his time and medical care. Within the week he was following me around, nuzzling me or lounging on my living room sofa with a carrot. He has never come close to biting or lunging at me from day one. He chases visitors around until they pet him and can't get enough attention. He absolutely loves people and like clockwork, turns his head down for his nightly kiss on the forehead. Then, Bonsai turns and happily hops away, mission accomplished. In short, he was shown he is noticed. He matters enough to be made to feel safe. 
The common assertion, "Rabbits belong outdoors" is simply incorrect if your bunny is meant to be a pet.

Exotic Hedgehogs As Pets

Hedgehogs as pets can be entertaining and endearing, but if you want to make the most of caring for one of these fascinating rodents, you should inform yourself of their living requirements.
Feral hedgehogs can and do cover several miles in a single night in search of a good meal. You pet hedgehog will not have to worry about catching its food, but without the opportunity for exercise, it can easily grow obese for its species and develop health complications. For this reason, you should invest in some stimulating features and toys. An activity wheel will keep your hedgehog going for hours each night, providing it with a much-needed workout. Despite its modest size, a hedgehog will need a spacious environment, which means at least two square meters of cage space. If it is social, you may want to let it wander around a room or two of your home, under proper supervision, of course. Its cage should be its castle, and at least two square meters will be required to house all its needs and facilities efficiently. 
Hedgehogs identify strange substances and items by tasting them. This habit can take on dangerous proportions when it involves cleansing chemicals or electric wires. If you allow your hedgehog some time out of its cage, do keep an eye on the situation, if you have cats, dogs or other pets that might threaten it. Although a hedgehog has excellent armor against potential predators, it might experience some anxiety. If you want different types of pets to get along, you will need to invest some time towards integrating them. Do not let the hedgehog roam through the whole house at once. This type of pet is quite gifted at sheltering out of sight, and may cost you hours of searching from room to room. 
Your hedgehog will need a well-ventilated living area to get rid of the smell of its droppings and for this a wire cage is best. Bear in mind, though, that in the wild, hedgehogs often retreat to a hole or some form of shelter for their daytime sleep. You should provide it with a box, a tiny sleeping bag or some blanket to let it creep out of sight. The bottom of the cage should be solid, to avoid injury. Set aside some space to accommodate a litter box as well. 
If you plan and prepare ahead of time for the arrival of your prickly animal companion, you will be making the most of keeping hedgehogs as pets.

The Best Self-Assessment Practices Before You Adopt A Sugar Glider

The thought of going out to adopt a sugar glider can be quite entertaining and is an economically brighter alternative for those who cannot afford to make a purchase. However it is important to consider whether you are truly able to make the required commitment once this tiny and playful pet enters your home. The truth is, the average working person maintains a hectic daily schedule which consists of frequent travel and office work away from home and their pet, with minimal downtime afterwards. Bills are at the forefront of our conscious and mandatory expenses threaten to draw us away from spending time on other hobbies which we would rather be involved with. The nagging difficulties of life tend to drive people into making certain decisions on impulse which they anticipate will provide pleasure or escapism. Poor decisions include someone making a quick choice to rush out and adopt a glider without making educated long-term decisions which will be instrumental in providing happiness, health and longevity to this special pet. Bare in mind, before you make an adoption of this exotic mammal there are a number of things you should consider which differ from owning the average pet. You must take into account your lifestyle in comparison to the unique needs of the glider.
If you are strapped for time during the day as most 9 to 5 workers tend to be, realize that the sugar glider is a nocturnal mammal by nature. As you arrive home from work in the evening it will most likely have just awoken from it's sleep and anxious to meet you for some playtime. This contrast between your daytime schedule and it's nighttime one does have a disadvantage though. As it is active during nighttime, your glider may create some noise as it plays inside it's cage and cause distractions while you are trying to sleep at night. Your solution is to train and adjust your gliding possum towards remaining awake during day and sleep at night instead, which is perfectly fine to do and will not cause it any harm. Ideally, most people would like to carry their glider around in a pocket or pouch as their company throughout the day, but unfortunately the average work schedule and environment does not allow for adequate bonding and pet care. It is advised that you remove all work and life distractions to reserve bonding time with your pet in a calm setting. The process of bonding between this mammal is an essential part of it's development in the long term, therefore you should place quality time at the highest priority as it's owner. 
Once your adoption begins and your new pet enters the home, it does not take a lot to provide the ideal environment for it's health and happiness. For most owners you will likely have the ideal home setting already, a quality which is great for the average residential person looking to bring a glider into their lives. This furry little creature gets along great with other people and non-threatening animals so if you have pets and children in the home already, it may not be a large concern. The glider is nocturnal so if you work during the day prepare to meet your pet for playtime as it wakes from it's daily sleep schedule. As for bathroom cycles of this animal, they are similar to humans in having to go after a long sleep and a few times daily. This cycle makes it predictable to know when to put your glider down by itself in the proper area so it can relieve itself. With these facts in mind about the particular nature and lifestyle of this exotic pet, you can now determine whether your home and it's needs are an adequate match. 
If you are a financially-conscious person at heart and can refrain from overindulgence on your pet, the sugar glider is the right choice for you. This tiny animal is relatively cost-efficient to raise considering that it does not consume large portions, occupies a cage as a living space and does not require regular visits to the veterinarian or spa. Like any other bad habit, some people cannot resist the urge to splurge on their pets with expensive gifts, food and accessories. This is especially apparent with a cute and exotic pet like the gliding possum. Some owners who are misinformed about how to raise this animal end up burning the bank by purchasing things that are unnecessary and exceed the optimal requirements. Don't end up with empty pockets like the person who rushed out and adopted their glider only to spoil it silly without studying it's minimal lifestyle requirements. 
Your self awareness and commitment in life is a big factor in determining whether you are the right person to adopt a sugar glider. Before you take action towards adoption, look yourself in the mirror and identify any flaws about yourself which could jeopardize the ability to properly care for your potential pet in the long run. Objectivity of self is of primary importance, since it is ultimately your choice what type environment and care your glider pet will be subjected to in it's life. Make sure that if you choose to adopt, it ends up in a loving and caring home which will promote the longest and happiest life it truly deserves.

3 Easy Steps to Eliminate Cat Fleas

Lots of people are very concerned about flea problems. This could place them out of the thought of sharing their house with domestic pets. Although with the appropriate cat flea therapy process in place you do not need to worry about pest infestations.
There are lots of products and solutions and solutions available nowadays to cope with pest infestations and permit you to delight in family pet ownership with fleas getting in the way.
Why you should Stop Fleas and other insects 
Fleas and other insects are terrible tiny blood-suckers which could make life miserable for kittens and cats and animal owners. They're really small and hard to find and thus pest infestations can be cultivated before you'll realize there's a dilemma. For this reason you need to create a positive method to preventing fleas and other insects. Simply because you cannot see them does not necessarily mean they aren't affecting your household pets and house. Take a look at 3 simple steps to avoiding fleas and other insects in your house. 
Step One - Frontline Feline Flea Treatment method 
You need to take care of your domestic pets from fleas and other insects all year-long. Frontline is a great products having an established good reputation for flea protection. With Frontline flea treatment for cats and kittens you'll be able to easily and quickly take care of your domestic pets and get rid of any fleas and other insects that try to feed from them. 
Frontline is a powerful way to cope with grownup fleas because it will eliminate them immediately as soon as they have attempted to feed from domestic pets. What this means is when dogs and cats pick up new fleas and other insects they are often killed just before they've got an opportunity to get down and invade the areas. 
Step Two - House Pet Flea Treatment method 
You should also handle any fleas and other insects that could have previously started out reproduction in your house. Fleas and other insects will reproduce in almost any comfortable, darker locations for example inside the interlace of carpets and rugs or beneath boards. Since several modern-day residences are centrally heated up what this means is they can survive in the cooler months. 
There are several exceptional Pest Growth Regulator (IGR) pet flea treatment method products and solutions readily available. They perform to interrupt the life span period of fleas and other insects to avoid them from multiplying and infesting your house. You may use these IGR products and solutions twice yearly (they will work for Six months) to maintain your house free of fleas. 
Step Three - Cleaning Program 
Flea pest infestations don't necessarily mean your house is not clean. Nonetheless a number of changes in your cleaning up program will help manage fleas and other insects and help with effective flea cure for cats. 
• Fleas go into carpets and rugs, bed linen and delicate decorating in areas exactly where domestic pets rest. Which means you can help manage fleas by cleaning bed linen and pillow case covers regularly.
• It's also wise to vacuum cleaner area rugs, floor coverings and couch pillows just about every 2 or 3 days at the same time. 
• This will work to grab mature fleas and also will trigger eggs to hatch out making sure that while you do perform treatment options they'll be more productive.

All About the Siamese Cat

The Siamese cat is one of the best known cat breeds in the United States and around the world. It is not a breed that is native to the US. It originates from Thailand, which was called Siam until June 23, 1939.
The first documented Siamese cat to reach the shores of the United States was a gift to President Rutherford B. Hayes in 1878.
This breed is very graceful and quite slender. Oval shaped feet sit at the end of their slim legs. The distinctive markings on the coat are known as points. These shaded patches are found on the muzzle, ears, tail, and feet. Breeders have produced several variations of the points. Some of these are the Blue Point, Seal Point, Chocolate Point, and Lilac Point. These names refer to the color of the markings and other fur. When Siamese kittens are born, they are completely white. They will remain white for several months before their points start becoming visible. To determine the color points before they are visible on the fur you can look at the pads of the paws. Gray pads indicate Blue Point, light brown pads indicate Chocolate Point, and pink pads mean you have a Lilac Point on your hands.
The Siamese breed is known for being slightly more demanding than some other breeds. They are very intelligent cats and attempt to impose their will on their owners. Some Siamese cats are extremely noisy and mischievous. A Siamese in heat can produce quite a concert.
Despite their demanding personalities, Siamese cats yearn for interaction and companionship. They do not do well with being alone for long periods of time. This is why you will often see Siamese in pairs. If you own this breed you can expect to be in the constant company of your feline friend. Whoever first said that people don't own cats because cats own people might have been referring to a Siamese. This will become more obvious as your reading and relaxation times are interrupted by someone wanting to be petted.
They have a love for high places and a curiosity that can get them into precarious predicaments. If you cannot find your Siamese kitty, you should check on top of cabinets or shelves and inside of cupboards and closets. 
Even though they can produce a lot of noise, the Siamese isn't particularly fond of external noise. Loud noises like vacuum cleaners and washing machines tend to send these cats for hiding. Even a roll of foil can be enough to induce a panicked run for cover.

The Feline Diet - Why Adult Cats Should Not Drink Milk

It's true that cats love milk. Most cats will drink it if you let them. And who hasn't shared a little milk with their feline friend now and then? So, what's the problem?
Cow's milk is not a natural food for any cat. Even kittens, who naturally drink nothing but milk for the first few weeks of their lives, specifically need milk that is higher in protein, certain fats, and other nutrients, than the stuff we get from dairy cows. In other words, the only milk they need is the milk that their mothers provide.
Once kittens are weaned (at 8-12 weeks of age), they often lose their ability to digest milk. Many adult cats are lactose intolerant, and can develop an upset tummy and diarrhea from drinking cow's milk. 
There are other problems with cow's milk, as well. Much of the milk we can buy at the store comes from cows that have been injected with a growth hormone, called rBGH. This hormone causes changes in the milk itself, including elevated levels of another hormone, IGF-1, which is known to promote cancerous tumors. Milk from rBGH-treated cows is also different in the types and amounts of fatty acids and proteins it contains.
rBGH also causes higher rates of painful mastitis (inflammation of the udder) that must be treated with antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs. This increases the chances of chemical residues in the milk that could harm your cat. While there are laws preventing dairies from selling milk with illegal levels of certain drugs, inspections are often inadequate. Other drugs are not even tested for. Chemically contaminated milk can still end up in your refrigerator.
Even without rBGH, cow's milk is full of hormones, including estrogens, which are linked to many health problems. Milking cows are kept pregnant 11 months of the year; and all those pregnancy hormones flow right into the milk. Milk may also contain traces of pesticides and other contaminants of the food the cows are fed. 
Unlike the milk produced by nursing queens (mother cats), which kittens drink in its natural raw state, store-bought milk is pasteurized. Pasteurization is necessary to kill harmful bacteria that are rampant in high-production dairy facilities. But it also destroys much of milk's natural vitamins A, C and some B vitamins; it makes calcium less absorbable; and it deforms (denatures) proteins and enzymes. Such altered proteins may cause allergies. Additionally, casein, the major protein in milk, may itself cause allergies. Dairy products are one of the top allergens in cats (the other most common allergens are chicken, beef, fish, wheat, and corn). 
So, even though she may love it (don't we all love to eat things that aren't very good for us?), cow's milk is definitely not a good choice for your cat.

Discus Basics for a Beginner

Discus fish, king of all the aquarium tropical fish, is a breed of exotic fishes and is highly popularized as aquarium fish. Discus is a native of shallow streams and lakes running off the Amazon river and its tributaries. In the wild, these fishes dwell close to the shore, among the submerged tree roots. They feature a laterally compressed, disc-shaped body which gives the fish its name 'discus'. The sides of the fish comprises of lovely patterns in green, blue, red and brown.

Today, there are several varieties of this fish for sale at local aquarium stores. Their interactive nature has endeared them to people, making them one of the hottest options as an aquarium fish. These fishes relate to people, and even eagerly rush to greet their owners. They are observed to follow movements occurring in the room, even movements on television. However, these boisterous fishes are highly sensitive creatures and require substantial amount of care while keeping them in an aquarium. Discus care plays a significant role in keeping the fish happy and healthy. Setting up a discus aquarium and proper fish care need not be a costly investment. However, one has to invest a considerable amount of time for fish care, which is a factor that has to be kept in mind before purchasing this fish. For those of you who are pondering as to how to take care of discus fish, below are some basic care tips.

How to Take Care of Discus Fish:

Discus fish care requires diligence on the part of the pet owner. As a pet owner one will have to gather as much information about the fish and its unique living conditions as possible, so as to attain a thriving ecosystem. Understanding their feeding habits, breeding patterns and other needs will help to maintain them properly. One does not want these lively aquarium fish to perish due to lack of knowledge. Some simple discus care guidelines that need to be followed are:

Water Condition: This is an important aspect of proper discus fish care. It is important to recreate the natural environment of the fish, in order to pacify their desires. Absence of appropriate environmental conditions will result in sick and aggressive discus fish. They may even die.

Water Hardness: The parameters of the local tap water needs to be investigated. Hard tap water needs to be mixed with softened water, so as to attain the desired water for the fish. Softening can be done by using a reverse osmosis filter. Water conditions that the fish is accustomed to will reduce the chances of the fish from suffering an osmotic shock.

Water pH: The softened water will adjust the pH to the desired level easily. The recommended pH for fish should be between 6.5-7.5 for display purposes, and between 5.5-6.5 for breeding purposes. Adding peat is a great way to lower the pH gradually, however, it's advisable to have someone well versed with water chemistry to do the job.

Water Temperature: As compared to other tropical fishes, discus aquarium fish requires higher temperature. This factor has to be kept in mind while selecting aquarium plants. In order to change the water temperature, all one has to do is adjust the heater's dial in the aquarium. The temperature level should be checked twice a day, with the help of a digital thermometer. Conventional thermometers are not precise, thus not recommended. For discus fish display, the temperature range is 27.5 to 29C and 30 to 33C for the breeding time.

Water Changes: Water changes are to be carried out on a weekly basis, so as to ensure the health of the discus fish. A water change replaces the stale water with fresh water, thereby discarding the impurities from the aquarium. However, the discus fish does not like changes, so one should only change 25% of the tank volume at a time. One should also clean the bottom of the tank as well as suck up the debris without disturbing the fish to a great extent. Being noisy while cleaning the tank will stress the fish out (sounds are amplified in water).

Chlorine and Chloramine: Local water supplied to most of the regions in the US, are fine for discus fishes. However, in certain areas chloramines (blend of chlorine and ammonia) are added to the water, which is deleterious for the fish. The presence of chloramine can be tested via a tester available at the local aquarium shop. One can use a dechlorinating water conditioner to free the water of chlorine and chloramines.

Food and Nutrition: Discus fishes have small stomachs which can hold only small amount of food. Omega one flake food comprising salmon as the main ingredient is good for the fish and results into greater growth and color development. Frozen brine shrimp, frozen worms and heart food also make a good food sources for the fish. Generally, fishes need to be fed once in a day, however, these fishes exhibit voracious feeding patterns and have to be fed at least thrice a day.

Filtration: Some use chemical filtration media for holding harmful substances, which are discarded during water change. Some even use carbon filtration media to remove the medications or toxins. This carbon filtration media should only be used for a short duration before removal. The power filters used in the aquarium should be furnished with adequate amount of biological filter media. This can be done by purchasing the biological filter media sold for canister filters. This will convert the market power filter (which lacks enough biological filter media) into a suitable discus aquarium filter media. If the Discus fish is fed on beef-heart, one needs to make sure the leftovers are discarded.

These were some basic discus fish care tips. Besides the above mentioned points, one should also note that the discus fishes are social creatures and need to be kept in groups. One should not introduce a lone discus into a tank filled with various other types of fishes. Lone discus fish will survive without their community, however, it will not be happy. After taking care of discus fish for a while, one can even try out breeding discus fish. However, before one gets into breeding them, one needs to master the art of maintaining the right environmental water conditions for the fish. Though discus fish care requires diligence, it is an overall rewarding experience. Hope this article on how to take care of discus fish was helpful and informative! Take care!

Raising Finch Birds

Raising finch birds can be the easiest thing you'll ever do, but it can also be the hardest. It all depends on how you've prepared yourself for the set-up. If you've done your reading and research even before you've taken your new pet home, then you will have been able to make the necessary preparations for them. Not only that, you will have also equipped yourself to handle any potential emergency or problem that you may possibly come across. This is how important preparation is! It can totally alter your experience with these birds!
If you've always wanted to keep finch birds, maybe for future breeding purposes, or simply for household pets, then you can start your education now. We have some invaluable tips on how to raise them right! Read up and learn a thing for too, so your birds go to a happy and healthy home.
Tips for Your Finch Birds
1. Understand the nature of the kind that you get- Finches are social animals, so they naturally look for companions. It would make no sense to buy a single bird. He or she would feel lonely, and probably die in a matter of weeks. Keep your finch happy and engaged by making sure that you get a pair, or even multiple finches.
2. Find out what your pets like to eat- research will tell you what most finch birds eat, but you can also use your powers of observation to see if they prefer one type of food over the other. While you're at it, please don't forget to give them enough water. Lack of either may kill them.
3. Find a way for your pet to get some exercise- a fat or obese finch would not be ideal for breeding. Not only that, in the same way that humans suffer from being fat or obese, finches may also encounter complications from having the same condition. A great way to get your finch birds moving would be to provide them with a spacious cage. Perches and swings are also great additions so they can get some exercise. Lastly, clever placement of their food and water containers may force them to move from one end of the cage to the other to get either.

Tips in Keeping Aviary Finches in Great Shape

We're all too familiar with how great an expense investing in aviary finches can be. These finches require a lot of money, time and expertise to set up. If you've already done all that work so far, then you need to make sure that you protect your investment and make it last for as long as you can! In order to do that, you may have to learn how to keep your finches in top shape. Not only does it benefit you, the owner of these finches, but learning to maintain your finches will serve your feathered friends well too! After all, these finches are your finches' home, and you want them to have a happy one, right?
Maintaining aviary finches is easy, especially if you have a helpful guide. To help you get a head start, here are some great tips!
1. When building your aviary finches, make sure that the materials used are top grade- Otherwise, your finches aviary will not last for very long, and you will need to replace it again. Make sure that the wires that you select are strong and sturdy, and will not be easily bent. You may also want to coat these wires in a film that protects it against rust. 
2. Pay attention to where you place your aviary finches. Do remember that the elements can be your worst enemy when it comes to keeping your finches aviary in good shape. The rain can cause the wires to rust, and the sun can wear out the paint. To protect your finches against the elements, position it properly in your home. Make sure that it hardly gets wet in the rain, and is only exposed to the sun for a limited amount of time everyday. 
3. Lastly, always remember to check your aviary finches every once in a while for minor or major damages, or anything that needs to be repaired. Remember that minor damages will probably cost you less to repair, and you may not even need to spend for new finches. If you leave minor damage to get bigger, then you may have to replace your expensive cage altogether and you really want to avoid that if you can. 
Caring for your finches cage should be easy after these tips. We also advise you to use your common sense! If you think your finches' cage needs replacing for one reason or another, then go on and do it. You will see what your finches need best.

Want to Keep Him Healthy? What Do Parrots Eat for a Long, Happy Life?

How many times have you gone into your local pet store looking for pet care items and you are greeted by a whistle or simple "Hello there." You look around to return the nice gesture but cannot find the person that it came from. What you see is this beautiful bird staring at you and again you hear "hello there!" It came from the beautiful parrot in the cage next to you. You tell yourself that you want to take him home. But what must you buy for him? What do parrots eat? So many questions!
You are so taken by this little fellow that you spend the next 10 minutes talking to him forgetting just why you are there in the first place. Sound familiar? Wondering how much he costs to take home with you? Now that you've spent the next half hour talking to the salesperson about him and finalizing the purchase, you think that you are done. Nope! Not yet! He will need to eat once you get him home. But there are so many different bird foods in that aisle. There are seeds, peanuts and many different colorful pellets.
Although your parrot would probably eat many of the wide selection there, you must think about the health and wellness of your new friend if you want him to live to his full life expectancy. As you may have heard, parrot species can live anywhere from 10-80 years depending on which parrot type you choose. 
You will need to feed your parrot a variety of foods from the seed selections, pellet diet to fruits and vegetables. The different varieties of food available mostly have different ingredients that are essential to your parrot's good health. For example, a diet made up of only seeds does not give your parrot the proper nutrition needed to live long and healthy. 
The pellet food available is a more balanced diet that when added to the fruits and vegetables you will provide him will give him what he needs to be happy and healthy. You will choose the food that best suits your parrot's size and weight requirements. A parrot is a wonderful friend that can be a lifelong companion for you if you know how to properly care for and feed him so he can live to his full life expectancy. Taking the time to educate yourself on the basics of companion bird care before you actually go out and purchase one will only set you up for success and give your new family friend a head start to good health and a happy life.

Get Your Goat!

So many people wish desperately to get back to the land...to get 'off-grid', to own animals that produce sustenance and to grow a garden for food. We dream of fresh vegetables, real milk and cheese and no electric bill! Visions of perfect rows of plants growing tomatoes and a peacefully grazing Jersey cow crowd our thoughts as we sit in rush-hour traffic.
The reality of that world is not clearly seen until you are in the middle of it. Vegetables do not always grow perfect fruit in a straight row. Off-grid power is certainly a developing area, but requires understanding and finances to acquire it. Cows can be very messy and are bigger than you may realize. They also do not always stay where you put them!
However the determination to try this lifestyle can win out and you find yourself with a hobby farmstead. One of the animals showing up more and more in hobby farms are GOATS! These adorable and endearing creatures can be fun to raise, they can also be a real headache if not prepared for. Getting a call at work by a distraught neighbor whose flower garden is now nothing but a patch of stems is not your goal.
To get your goat and enjoy her ownership requires some planning and knowledge. Fences - proper ones - are a must. You should have your fences at least 4' tall and of sturdy woven wire. Ridged panels can also be used. Fencing is one area you do NOT want to go cheap or 'good enough' since goat will test their boundaries. They will rub on the fence and climb on it. They just do!
Goats hate to get wet so be sure to include a shelter of some sort. It can be as simple as a three-sided shed with a roof for her to get into out of the weather or as elaborate as you want to have it. It should be warm enough for the winter months as well. Adding hay or straw on the floor will keep her out of the mud and on a warm, dry bed. It will need cleaned out every so often...use that old bedding on your garden! Your plants will love it.
Goats do not eat anything and everything. They need a proper diet of browse and fresh water. Browse includes things like brush, bushes, trees and such. They will walk, take a bite, walk, take another bite. They browse much like deer. They like fresh, clean browse and will chose that over grass. If you have them on a small lot without much browse you will need to provide them fresh hay in a feeder. If they pull hay out onto the ground, and they will, and they step on it they will not eat it! It is the same with their grain. If they are fed on the ground and it gets 'dirty' they will not eat it. They must also have fresh water every day.
Goats can survive in a small paddock but they will not thrive like they would if let out on pasture. Even an acre or two of browse or even grasses is preferable to a small lot. Do not ever tie your goat out! They can choke on their leash or be harassed and even killed by neighborhood dogs. When you tie her for milking, feeding or grooming be sure to stay with her and keep an eye on her.
Milking is easy enough to do by hand and is actually quite an enjoyable time for you to get to know your goat better. While milking you can inspect her for injuries, bumps and scrapes. You will want a milking stand and a dish for her to eat from while you milk. Use a stainless steel bucket to collect the milk in and be sure to keep everything clean before, during and after milking. Always clean and sterilize your bucket after use.
To get her milking you will need to have her bred. The farm you buy her from will be able to help you find a buck to breed her to. Then you get to enjoy one of the most amazing things ever...the birth of new life into the world! Those kids can be awfully cute! Before you know it you will have several goats in that area you fenced so be sure you think of that during it's construction.. The kids that she produces can be sold for profit..either as bottle babies or after they're weaned.
Getting your goat and bringing her home is a fun adventure. Be prepared and it will be enjoyable as well.

Best Rabbit Breeds For Kids - How to Choose Your First Pet

Best Rabbit Breeds for Kids
Children worldwide love to have pets and there are many benefits that parents may experience from raising their children with pets. It has been noted that pets help your child achieve a sense of responsibility and independence and effectively sets them on the right path towards becoming responsible and mature adults. Parents who have never had the pleasure of owning a pet themselves are encouraged to consider choosing one from the various rabbit breeds as available. Rabbits are famous for being very intelligent and are easy to train using simple positive reinforcement methods. In addition, rabbits are very social but mild-mannered animals and will not often bite or scratch. Furthermore, rabbits have a long lifespan of 10 years or more and will be a great pet for your kids through the ages of 3-12.
How to choose a good rabbit as a pet for your children
It is not uncommon for many parents to walk into a pet store and randomly purchase any cute rabbit to be their child's pet. This may work out for some parents but it is recommended that you do your research before deciding on which type of rabbit would be best for your family as each breeds have their own set of characteristics and personality. One way to tell the difference between the rabbit breeds is by their body size and type.
1.Compact body type- This rabbit category has very small bodies and only weighs between two to six pounds. The most common and popular rabbit breeds in this category are:
2.Netherland Dwarf- the characteristics are a small round head, flat face with large round eyes
3.Dutch- the characteristics are a round head, long ears up to about 4-5 inches
4.Polish- this breed has small round heads, are slightly larger than the Netherland Dwarf and have ruby or blue colored eyes
5.Mini Lop- they have small round bodies and are extremely mild tempered
6.Commercial body type- this rabbit category generally have large bodies and are often referred to as meat breeds but can also be great pets for your children. The most common and popular rabbit breeds in this category are:
7.New Zealand- These rabbits have large heads and large round bodies with long 6 inch ears. It is worth noting that research has stated that white New Zealand's are jumpy and not very friendly
8.Champagne D' Argent- compared to the New Zealand, these rabbits have smaller bodies which are round and full. The most prominent characteristic is the gorgeous thick, silver coat of fur all over their bodies. When choosing this rabbit breed when young, it is worth mentioning that they are born with a completely black coat of fur that gradually changes color as it matures.

However, it is the general consensus among parents that the Mini Lop rabbits are the best of the rabbit breeds and is great house pets as they learn quickly and will become loyal and affectionate pets if allowed to interact with their human families form an early age.

How Much Do You Feed a Rabbit?

Having a rabbit at home is a charm and a fun. Care has to be given to these cute mini creatures. They are delicate animals and love to be pampered and fed at the right time.
There is not much hassle in feeding a rabbit. They survive on greens, primarily leaves. Apart from that they also thrive on pellets. The pellets are rich in protein and are good for baby rabbits for nourishment.
Rabbits are Vegetarians! 
Perhaps the fact that rabbits are vegetarians makes their diet and nutrition very basic and simple. They are no-nonsense pets and their eating habits are timed. One should see to it that the following rules are followed:
- Rabbits eat small portions of food. So divide their meal into small portions. 
- Feed them with leaves- these can be lettuce, carrot leaves, grass or any other plant leaves in considerable amounts. 3-5 small bowls of salad can be given to them in a day. 
- They love eating and the food has to be fresh but in small quantities. For example, spinach with 4 or 5 stems along with a few carrot leaves will suffice their hunger.
- Make sure the vegetables are washed well before given to a rabbit. 
- One should not over feed the rabbit with unwanted amount of greens, as that will lead to making them fat. 
Water is a must! 
One of the most essential requirements to stay alive and healthy is water. Feeding a rabbit with water is mandatory. In a day, a rabbit of any age has to be fed with water at least 6 to 8 times a day. 
A rabbit loves water and if not given in right proportions can lead to its death.
Fiber works! 
Rabbits can stay long and healthy if their diet contains lots of fibers. These include:
- Fiber means not just cereals. Don't feed your rabbit with serials as it is not digestion-friendly for a rabbit.
- Feed hay! Hay is the best food for a rabbit. Hays can be of grass, oat or alfalfa. They are rich in proteins.
- The amount of fiber in the diet of a rabbit should be between 15% and 20%.
Pellets for a healthy rabbit! 
Pellets are rich in minerals and vitamins, rabbits need them depending on their body weight.
- The quantity of pellets should be very limited. The maximum a medium-sized rabbit can consume is ½ cup in a day.
- However, the quantity of pellets shouldn't be in excess has that can make a rabbit put on weight.
A rabbit's metabolic activity should be often taken care about along with its eating habits.Like humans, rabbits also need timely meals. They are very small, pampered beings and need to be fed with diet that is healthy and nutritious.
So treat your rabbit with food items such as vegetables, fresh fruits, lots of water and a little amount of fiber. The more you treat a rabbit as a member of the family, the longer it will stay happily with you.

Popular Types Of Pet Cages Today

Different styles of cages 
Pet cages come in many different styles and sizes. The kind of cage you select will depend mainly on the type of animal you are having. For medium and large animals, there are over-sized cages in which your pet will be able to sit, stand, stretch and turn around quite comfortably. There is also sufficient space for food and water containers.
For smaller animals, you may use a pet travel bag which can be carried around with you. These bags come in various styles including back packs, front slings and bags with handles and an opening at the top for the animal to push its head through. Cats normally lie down most of the time when traveling, so the pet cages need not be very high as long as the top of the cage doesn't press down on its head. 
Cages for dogs 
The most common types are made of solid plastic and consist of three pieces - a top, a bottom and a removable gate - which can be taken apart and cleaned. However, you will not be able to fold these variants. Wire cages are much cooler as they have excellent ventilation and there is nothing to hinder the vision of the animal. They are fairly heavy and some can be folded. They sometimes come with various pads and covers for the added comfort of the dog. Soft cages are very light and can be folded. However, they are not recommended for puppies that are likely to tear and chew at the fabric. 
Cages for birds
Birds need plenty of room for climbing and exercise and ideally their cages should have horizontal instead of vertical bars. There are many shapes and styles of bird cages but nowadays most of the bird cages are the angled type and not round as studies have shown that round cages can affect most birds psychologically. These cages are usually hung or placed on a stand. 
Cages for hamsters 
The most common type is the traditional wire cage which comes with a plastic bottom that can be removed for cleaning. A water bottle and feeding dish are normally attached to the cage.An increasingly popular hamster cage is the expandable type which sometimes comes with a wheel and slide. This is basically a simple plastic box to which you can add tubes leading to other separate areas or create a maze of tunnels.
Cages for cats 
Nowadays people prefer to keep their cats outdoors, where they have access to lots of fresh air and sunshine. There are two types of outdoor cat enclosures in the market. The most common type is made of flexible netting and can be easily dismantled for storage when not in use. The other type is made of wire mesh and is more solid. It can usually be left outdoors permanently.
Popular cages for pets today can be found in any animal shelter or pet stores and finding an appropriate one will add to the physical and psychological well-being of your pet.

Tips For Bathing a Dog Efficiently

Getting Your Things Ready 
You can't go to war without your battle gear. That may sound a bit exaggerated but it still applies in your daily life, even when it comes to bathing your dogs. You will just end up having a hard time giving your dog a bath when you haven't prepared yourself for it, so make sure you do the following things first.
If you're going to bathe your dog inside your house, make sure that all the surroundings in your bathroom are secured. You need to prepare a bath mat, so that you or your dog won't slip in case water splashes around. (Or more likely WHEN water splashes around!) You can also try putting some plastic bags like a garbage bag, around the floor, it's not necessary, but it will definitely save you time when cleanup time arises. And it may also protect your other stuff from getting wet.
Prepare the water for your dog. Usually dog's really don't mind if the water is cold or warm, but it's better to use warm water to make him comfortable. Make sure you run the water before your dog enters it. Sometimes when a dog hears running water they immediately get scared and won't enter the bathtub, so you should make sure you do this before he enters the tub. If you don't have a detachable showerhead, you can prepare a pitcher if your dog is large or a cup if your dog is small. This is what you will use to pour water on your pet. Put cotton balls in his ears (not too deep) to prevent water from entering them. 
Bathing Your Dog 
Before you put your dog in the tub, make sure to brush his hair first. It would be better to brush your dog's hair to prevent it from matting. Sometimes matting can get worse if you wet their coat and apply shampoo or conditioner, so it is essential for you to brush his coat first before getting him wet. 
You are now ready to put him in the tub. Start pouring water on his head first before proceeding to pour water on his body. Make sure you avoid his eyes and nose. Apply shampoo on your dog. (Do not use human shampoo; there are dog shampoos for a reason, so make sure to use a dog shampoo.) Make sure not to get any shampoo in the eyes and nose so your dog won't feel irritated. Start lathering his coat from the neck, to his body, his undercoat and legs, and down to his tail. Make sure you have your hand on your dog to prevent him from shaking the lather off. 
Use the pitcher or the cup to rinse your dog off, make sure to cover his eyes and nose. Start pouring from his head and then to his body. Make sure to wash all of the shampoo from his body. This may take several rinsings. After giving your dog a rinse you can now get him out of the tub. Let him shake off the excess water, and have your towel ready to dry him off. You can let your dog dry in the sun, keeping him in an enclosed container to prevent him from running back on the dirt. However if there is no sun, you can just towel dry your dog, or you can use a blow dryer. Please take note: Do not put the blower on hot or high, and avoid putting the dry-blower too near to your dog. And now you have a clean, beautiful dog!

Treating Skin Conditions in Dogs and Cats

Skin conditions are among the most common health complaints suffered by dogs and cats. This article looks at the common causes and symptoms of these conditions, and also looks at some of the treatments that are available.
Causes
There are a very large number of factors that can cause skin complaints, so it can often be hard even for experienced vets to identify what triggered a particular complaint. However, there are some very common causes that are known to be responsible for a large percentage of cases, such as fleas, and allergies caused by bacteria, food and environmental factors.
The problem is that deciding what treatment to use depends often on identifying the cause, which involves checking for parasites and making efforts to find the source of any allergic reaction. Other than allergies and fleas, the most common forms of skin conditions in dogs and cats are dermatitis, eczema and pyoderma.
Symptoms
Typical symptoms that indicate a skin complaint include inflammation, itchiness and redness on areas where the coat is thinnest, like on the belly or under the armpits. Another sign is hair loss, which can be brought on by the cat or dog continually scratching to relieve the intense discomfort. If the condition gets serious, you may see symptoms such as pustules or broken skin, which should be taken as a signal that treatment is required as a matter of urgency.
Treatments
There are various treatments recommended for skin problems. One approach is to alter your pet's diet, as this often has an effect on the condition. Red meats and foods containing colouring and flavouring agents can be a cause of allergic reactions, so a cleansing diet containing only white meat or fish and boiled rice is sometimes recommended for a month or so, or continued for a longer period if the animal is particularly susceptible to food-based allergies. 
Herbal medicines have been found to be of particular use in controlling skin complaints, because of their healing properties that tackle health problems in a holistic way. A combination of garlic and fenugreek can be used to deal with minor skin infections, and is often given along with mixed vegetable tablets, which help to relieve irritation and cool down hot, inflamed skin. 
Evening primrose oil is another commonly used herbal treatment. It is used to deal with the hair loss caused by scratching, as it maintains the skin while encouraging coat re-growth. There are also a number of natural formulas that can be applied to dry, damaged and sore skin to help it to heal quickly and avoid infection.
Herbal medicines on the whole have a high success rate for treating cats and dogs suffering from skin conditions, and have the added benefit that they can be given along with any other conventional medication and have no major side effects. If you are unsure about the best treatment for your pet, the best solution is always to seek the advice of a trained veterinary surgeon, as they will be best placed to identify the problem and suggest an effective remedy.

How to Naturally Treat Diarrhea in Dogs

It's important to know that diarrhea is not an illness but a symptom of any number of problems that are interrupting the function of the large intestine.It is also important to identify the cause as trying to just suppress this symptom will only bring about short lived, temporary relief which may cause long term health implications. Once identified, different causes will require different treatments.
Diarrhea can be mild and self limiting, or very debilitating and even fatal. It may or may not be accompanied by gas and abdominal discomfort. If your dog is still happy, with good energy level, and doesn't refuse water an acute episode of diarrhea may be the body's attempt at internal cleansing and purging. If however the diarrhea persists for more than a few days, contains blood, if there is associated vomiting, your dog is becoming increasingly lethargic, and refuses to drink, please seek the advice from your veterinarian as soon as possible. With each passing day of chronic diarrhea nutrients are lost in the stool, which lowers your dog's general vitality. Your dog may need to go on an IV for loss of fluids immediately if this is the case.
Causes and Contributing factors to diarrhea
A dog with chronic diarrhea and gas, and accompanying skin problems may be suffering from a food allergy. Frequent offenders are preservatives (ethoxyquin, propylene glycol), artificial flavouring and coloring, dyes, salt, sugar, fungi, bacteria, germs all found in commercial dog foods (read more about What's Really in Your Dogs Food article). Most common foods that may cause allergy include: beef, beef by-products, corn and corn oil, fish, turkey, pork, ham, cows milk (lactose intolerance), yeast, eggs, wheat or any food containing these. Please note that all commercial tinned food and biscuits, treats all contain sugar, salt, corn and wheat. Unless diet is strictly addressed, ongoing diarrhea may continue presenting.
Consider also the following contributing factors diarrhea may be due to: 
• stress and anxiety 
• over eating 
• high fat diet 
• vaccinations (due to meat extract that certain vaccines are grown in, thus long term leading to sensitivities and autoimmune disorders) 
• undiagnosed IBS (Irritable Bowel Syndrome) 
• leaky gut syndrome (intestinal dysbiosis/ hyper permeability) 
• a foreign body ingestion 
• gastritis, colitis (intestinal inflammation) 
• the pancreas and/or liver failing to produce enzymes properly or sufficiently 
• food poisoning 
• excess vitamin C 
• bacteria, virus (i.e. parvovirus, distemper) 
• parasites i.e. worms 
• drug related complication (most drugs are residual and are never completely eliminated as in the waste from food but are stored up in the body) 
• side effect of certain drugs (i.e. antibiotics) 
• liver disease
• pancreatitis, 
• stomach ulcer 
• cancer 
• could also indicate that the liver and kidneys are overwhelmed with toxins that they are unable to process which leads to purging i.e. diarrhea.


Helpful suggestions to relieve diarrhea 
The most beneficial initial step is to put your dog on a liquid fast. Withhold all solid food and only allow a liquid diet consisting of juices (i.e. apple juice is very healing in diarrhea), broths, and filtered water. If you suspect your dog's diarrhea is due to an infection, you can add colloidal silver to his drinking water. The reason for not feeding further is that a dog's digestive system has a gastrocolic reflex. This means that the colon will empty as the stomach fills. Thus, to stop the colon from emptying and break this cycle of diarrhea, its best to stop ingesting food (or only as little as possible). In most cases, dogs instinctively will refuse food when they are unwell. By fasting, the irritated digestive system is given a chance to rest and heal. Slippery elm is highly nutritious, very soothing and healing to irritated mucous membranes.
Slippery Elm bark powder can heal and reduce the frequency of diarrhea in dogs quickly and naturally. It relieves internal inflammations, protects against infection, stimulates new cell growth, and causes swollen irritated tissue to contract-it has an affinity for the digestive tract where it acts as an astringent, therefore particularly indicated for treating diarrhea. It normalizes intestinal function, is rich in protein, trace minerals, and is easy for your dog to digest, 
Directions: Combine ¼ cup slippery elm powder with 2 tablespoons acidophilus powder (good bacteria for the gut that needs to be reestablished) and 1 teaspoon Himalayan salt (source of more minerals that have been lost due to the diarrhea). Add enough water to make a runny syrup which you can feed to your dog either by spoon, syringe or dropper. Give approximately 1 tablespoon per 5kg of your dog's body weight, every 2-3 hours in an acute situation. You can sweeten the mixture with some raw organic (unprocessed) honey for taste. In occasional diarrhea you can add the mixture with plenty of water to your dog's daily meals. Once his bowels have returned to normal, reduce the frequency and stop 
Fiber supplements such as (apple) pectin, psyllium husks can help bind and relieve diarrhea. With psyllium husks 1-2 teaspoons with very little water (or apple juice) is effective. Grated green apple (no skin) left to brown for a few minutes, (sweetened with honey if necessary) is also good at controlling diarrhea.
Chamomile tea is soothing, healing and relaxing to both the digestive and nervous system. Chamomile would particularly be indicated if your dog's diarrhea is due to stress and anxiety, and if there is accompanying abdominal discomfort and gas. Make a strong brew using two (organic) teabags, or a teaspoon loose leaf. Pour half cup of boiling water, cover and seep for 10 minutes. Once it has cooled and is just warm, you many add a little manuka honey to sweeten and taste. You may syringe (or use dropper) and slowly give to your dog this way. Yarrow is another herb which is excellent for controlling diarrhea.
For management of chronic or recurrent diarrhea, in addition to concurrently using supportive supplements that address the cause, the following recipe may be helpful: 
Gently boil together 50% white potato, 50% sweet potato, and a slice of turnip. For flavour, mix in with boiled chicken or lamb. This recipe can be given for longer periods to help ease diarrhea. 
Once your dog is showing signs of recovery, reintroduce solid food gradually and in smaller amounts. The Recovery Broth for Dogs recipe would be beneficial and gently healing at this stage. 
Always ensure your dog has access to sufficient water and monitor his recovery closely. In most cases, dogs recover quite well after a period of fasting and bounce back with even more vitality. If however, your dogs diarrhea continues and you are unable to identify a cause please check with your holistic veterinarian to rule out any more serious health implications.

Mix Up Your Wedding With a Puppy Ring Bearer

When you talk about weddings, many people automatically think of the bride but this is a big day for the groom, too. In fact, it's one of the most significant days in your life. For this reason, you want it to be special and stand out in every way. So, why not mix up your wedding with a puppy ring bearer. Not only will this add to the excitement but it's also a great way to include your four-legged friend in one of the biggest days of your life.
The ring bearer has a very important role in your wedding but it's a small enough part that it's easy to train your pup to do it. All he has to do it walk straight down the aisle and then sit or lay down at your feet so you can retrieve the rings. Just imagine how amazed all of your friends and family will be to see your pet participating in your wedding ceremony. 
Two Ways to Carry the Rings 
There are two ways for your puppy to carry the rings down the aisle. If your pup is calm, well trained and don't mind having things on his back, you can use a pillow for the rings just like the ones used in traditional weddings but designed especially for dogs. These will strap to your pet to keep it from falling off as he walks towards you. 
The second way is to attach the rings to your pet's collar. This is great for those dogs that don't particularly like anything riding on their backs. If you choose this method, you can buy him a special collar that matches your tuxedo so he will fit in perfectly, which brings us to another good point. When your dog is your ring bearer, he needs to dress for the part. 
Doggie Wedding Attire for Your Pup 
Including your dog in your wedding is a growing trend that gets more popular every year. For this reason, designers are making more wedding attire for dogs. Traditionally, the ring bearer will wear a tuxedo and your puppy can follow that tradition, too. 
There are many tuxedos available for your pet that will compliment your tux perfectly. You can choose the traditional black and white attire or choose a pinstripe or plaid design. You can also find doggie wedding attire in silver, taupe and even Leopard print. You can add bow ties and doggie cuffs to set off the tux even more. 
If dressing your puppy in attire is not an option, don't worry. You can try a tuxedo scarf, a simple necktie or a beautifully designed collar. Either one of these will allow him to be comfortable while still being dressed for the occasion. 
While having your puppy as your ring bearer is a great idea and something that will truly make your wedding memorable, keep in mind that even the best-behaved pets can be unpredictable. He may decide he does not want to walk down the aisle in front of all those people or he may get restless during the ceremony. For this reason, you need to have a back-up plan and someone to remove your pet to an area where he will be more comfortable if necessary.