For the Sake of Your Bunny, Make Yours an Indoor Pet!

There is a common misconception that pet rabbits belong in an enclosure outdoors, rather than indoors and this often results in neglected, aggressive and ultimately, a rabbit with a much shorter lifespan. If you want to purchase a rabbit for yourself or your child but insist on leaving it outdoors, this is a very good sign that a rabbit may not the best choice for you. There are several reasons for this.
When an animal rescue team receives a call from Animal Control or an individual concerned about rabbit neglect, over 90% of those calls are to save an outdoor bunny. We are expected to remove a rabbit the owner no longer can take care of properly and since it has lived outdoors for the duration of its life, it is usually too aggressive to place in a home or overcrowded shelter. It is wild in the sense it has not had much human interaction simply because it is too easy to ignore or neglect an animal you rarely see (except when you trudge outside to feed it). On the other hand, it is not truly wild because it cannot do anything a wild rabbit could do. It can't run for cover from predators, forage or instinctively protect itself the way a wild rabbit can do. 
It is impossible to discuss rabbits in any environment without mentioning child owners* because they are often the ones expected to care for what is not a starter pet. A bite from a rabbit that has been left outdoors with little stimulation or interaction, constantly fearful of nearby prey is often a biting rabbit. If it is a large rabbit (generally more than 6 pounds), a bite on small fingers very often requires stitches or medical attention. This is dangerous for everyone involved and sadly, the only recourse is to euthanize the aggressive rabbit. This is unfortunate because the bunny was often purchased by a parent who did very little research on rabbit ownership, but gave in to a child's pleas for a cute and cuddly bunny. This is very common when the animal was the result of an Easter purchase, as it tends to be an impulse buy as a result of watching too many candy commercials!* 
There are simply too many outdoor problems that can crop up that are easily missed because of the location of the cage. If the rabbit is outdoors and the adult or child grows bored with it, this is when we see frozen water dishes in the winter, forgotten feedings and other issues. In cold climates, water freezes within minutes and a rabbit will not get enough liquid from snow that made its way into the enclosure. In fact, if snow does actually make it into the hutch, that is a telltale sign there is not adequate protection from the elements. Any veterinarian can recount a multitude of stories of rabbits dying from renal failure or dehydration/hypothermia due to lack of fresh water. 
Never is the saying, "when a parent considers a pet for a young child, they should do so with the understanding it will eventually be mom and dad's responsibility to care for it", more true than when the pet is an outdoor rabbit. 
Rabbit owners who choose to leave their rabbit outdoors often know very little about their pet and by the time it is very ill, it is often too late to get proper medical care. Because a rabbit is a prey animal, its instinct is to hunker down and suffer silently so predators can't sense the injured or ill animal. A rabbit is always cognizant of its precarious place on the food chain. When in a physical crisis, buns will seek cover to hide from predators, hunch up in a ball and often grind their teeth in response to the pain (this is often excruciating if it is an intestinal blockage) and wait for the crisis to pass.
If the bunny is indoors, subtle signs of pain can be noted because an indoor rabbit is noticed by its owner more often due to simple logistics. Medical care can be given before it is too late. If you are used to walking by the rabbit cage and seeing your bun excitedly hop over to see you (as mine does), it is going to catch your attention pretty quickly if one day you find the poor fellow hunched over in the corner of the cage. How is this level of rabbit behavior noticeable with a rabbit in the backyard in a hutch? 
A rabbit does not need to come into direct contact with a predator to perish. When a cat, dog, hawk or fox is in the area, a bunny in an elevated hutch will often thrash about to get away from the predator, often fatally injuring himself in the process. If the thrashing about does not kill her, unrelenting fear (perceived or real) night after night will often cause shock set in and the rabbit will literally die from fear. Signs of shock in a rabbit are the following: Pale gums, very cool ears, glassy or closed eyes, weak pulse, increased rate of breathing and increased heart rate. Immediate transport to a vet clinic is crucial but almost always too late. An indoor rabbit will rarely encounter these traumas. 
Well meaning outdoor rabbit owners are uneducated if they believe an outdoor hutch is mimicking a natural living experience. However, if you simply will not bring your rabbit indoors, please make certain it is not in one of the standard hutches pet stores sell, as these are never large enough. One of our volunteers at the rabbit rescue took 3 abandoned rabbits and could not bring them indoors. She put them in the shed (think plenty of space) and with plenty of hay, ample hiding spaces and the own company of each other, these rabbits had long and happy lives. Her creativity and determination to keep them safe was commendable and she ALWAYS brought them indoors during the New England winter months or during heat waves. It wasn't ideal (they belong indoors all year), but she did not have a choice, as the poor bunnies were abandoned and she was saving them. 
That brings me to another crucial point. If you still insist on keeping your rabbit outdoors, be absolutely certain it is not alone without a companion. Rabbits are very smart and social creatures. Leaving it alone outside without interaction is truly a cruel fate. If they sense predators or get cold in cold weather, at least they can huddle together. However, if you do not have a shed-size shelter for your buns to feel safe, why do this to the animal in the first place? Keep the little guy indoors already!
Rabbits are easily litterbox trained and often do well with cats. My very large rabbit sleeps with both of my cats and in the two years I have enjoyed Bonsai, I have yet to see him urinate outside his litterbox. His room is odor free and to be honest, cats and dogs can be often be considerably dirtier. When he was rescued, he was left in a hutch by the owner who moved and left him to die. A neighbor called to report animal abandonment when the individual moved out and the bunny was left. It is important to note that animal cruelty is a felony in many states.
He was aggressive, bit the rescue workers and lunged at everyone (who could blame him?). His water bowl was completely dry. It was understood it would be most likely euthanized due to trauma, severe head tilt and maggots. The animal was in a horrible state and the beginning stages of shock. 
I took him home and a vet donated his time and medical care. Within the week he was following me around, nuzzling me or lounging on my living room sofa with a carrot. He has never come close to biting or lunging at me from day one. He chases visitors around until they pet him and can't get enough attention. He absolutely loves people and like clockwork, turns his head down for his nightly kiss on the forehead. Then, Bonsai turns and happily hops away, mission accomplished. In short, he was shown he is noticed. He matters enough to be made to feel safe. 
The common assertion, "Rabbits belong outdoors" is simply incorrect if your bunny is meant to be a pet.

Exotic Hedgehogs As Pets

Hedgehogs as pets can be entertaining and endearing, but if you want to make the most of caring for one of these fascinating rodents, you should inform yourself of their living requirements.
Feral hedgehogs can and do cover several miles in a single night in search of a good meal. You pet hedgehog will not have to worry about catching its food, but without the opportunity for exercise, it can easily grow obese for its species and develop health complications. For this reason, you should invest in some stimulating features and toys. An activity wheel will keep your hedgehog going for hours each night, providing it with a much-needed workout. Despite its modest size, a hedgehog will need a spacious environment, which means at least two square meters of cage space. If it is social, you may want to let it wander around a room or two of your home, under proper supervision, of course. Its cage should be its castle, and at least two square meters will be required to house all its needs and facilities efficiently. 
Hedgehogs identify strange substances and items by tasting them. This habit can take on dangerous proportions when it involves cleansing chemicals or electric wires. If you allow your hedgehog some time out of its cage, do keep an eye on the situation, if you have cats, dogs or other pets that might threaten it. Although a hedgehog has excellent armor against potential predators, it might experience some anxiety. If you want different types of pets to get along, you will need to invest some time towards integrating them. Do not let the hedgehog roam through the whole house at once. This type of pet is quite gifted at sheltering out of sight, and may cost you hours of searching from room to room. 
Your hedgehog will need a well-ventilated living area to get rid of the smell of its droppings and for this a wire cage is best. Bear in mind, though, that in the wild, hedgehogs often retreat to a hole or some form of shelter for their daytime sleep. You should provide it with a box, a tiny sleeping bag or some blanket to let it creep out of sight. The bottom of the cage should be solid, to avoid injury. Set aside some space to accommodate a litter box as well. 
If you plan and prepare ahead of time for the arrival of your prickly animal companion, you will be making the most of keeping hedgehogs as pets.

The Best Self-Assessment Practices Before You Adopt A Sugar Glider

The thought of going out to adopt a sugar glider can be quite entertaining and is an economically brighter alternative for those who cannot afford to make a purchase. However it is important to consider whether you are truly able to make the required commitment once this tiny and playful pet enters your home. The truth is, the average working person maintains a hectic daily schedule which consists of frequent travel and office work away from home and their pet, with minimal downtime afterwards. Bills are at the forefront of our conscious and mandatory expenses threaten to draw us away from spending time on other hobbies which we would rather be involved with. The nagging difficulties of life tend to drive people into making certain decisions on impulse which they anticipate will provide pleasure or escapism. Poor decisions include someone making a quick choice to rush out and adopt a glider without making educated long-term decisions which will be instrumental in providing happiness, health and longevity to this special pet. Bare in mind, before you make an adoption of this exotic mammal there are a number of things you should consider which differ from owning the average pet. You must take into account your lifestyle in comparison to the unique needs of the glider.
If you are strapped for time during the day as most 9 to 5 workers tend to be, realize that the sugar glider is a nocturnal mammal by nature. As you arrive home from work in the evening it will most likely have just awoken from it's sleep and anxious to meet you for some playtime. This contrast between your daytime schedule and it's nighttime one does have a disadvantage though. As it is active during nighttime, your glider may create some noise as it plays inside it's cage and cause distractions while you are trying to sleep at night. Your solution is to train and adjust your gliding possum towards remaining awake during day and sleep at night instead, which is perfectly fine to do and will not cause it any harm. Ideally, most people would like to carry their glider around in a pocket or pouch as their company throughout the day, but unfortunately the average work schedule and environment does not allow for adequate bonding and pet care. It is advised that you remove all work and life distractions to reserve bonding time with your pet in a calm setting. The process of bonding between this mammal is an essential part of it's development in the long term, therefore you should place quality time at the highest priority as it's owner. 
Once your adoption begins and your new pet enters the home, it does not take a lot to provide the ideal environment for it's health and happiness. For most owners you will likely have the ideal home setting already, a quality which is great for the average residential person looking to bring a glider into their lives. This furry little creature gets along great with other people and non-threatening animals so if you have pets and children in the home already, it may not be a large concern. The glider is nocturnal so if you work during the day prepare to meet your pet for playtime as it wakes from it's daily sleep schedule. As for bathroom cycles of this animal, they are similar to humans in having to go after a long sleep and a few times daily. This cycle makes it predictable to know when to put your glider down by itself in the proper area so it can relieve itself. With these facts in mind about the particular nature and lifestyle of this exotic pet, you can now determine whether your home and it's needs are an adequate match. 
If you are a financially-conscious person at heart and can refrain from overindulgence on your pet, the sugar glider is the right choice for you. This tiny animal is relatively cost-efficient to raise considering that it does not consume large portions, occupies a cage as a living space and does not require regular visits to the veterinarian or spa. Like any other bad habit, some people cannot resist the urge to splurge on their pets with expensive gifts, food and accessories. This is especially apparent with a cute and exotic pet like the gliding possum. Some owners who are misinformed about how to raise this animal end up burning the bank by purchasing things that are unnecessary and exceed the optimal requirements. Don't end up with empty pockets like the person who rushed out and adopted their glider only to spoil it silly without studying it's minimal lifestyle requirements. 
Your self awareness and commitment in life is a big factor in determining whether you are the right person to adopt a sugar glider. Before you take action towards adoption, look yourself in the mirror and identify any flaws about yourself which could jeopardize the ability to properly care for your potential pet in the long run. Objectivity of self is of primary importance, since it is ultimately your choice what type environment and care your glider pet will be subjected to in it's life. Make sure that if you choose to adopt, it ends up in a loving and caring home which will promote the longest and happiest life it truly deserves.

Get Your Goat!

So many people wish desperately to get back to the land...to get 'off-grid', to own animals that produce sustenance and to grow a garden for food. We dream of fresh vegetables, real milk and cheese and no electric bill! Visions of perfect rows of plants growing tomatoes and a peacefully grazing Jersey cow crowd our thoughts as we sit in rush-hour traffic.
The reality of that world is not clearly seen until you are in the middle of it. Vegetables do not always grow perfect fruit in a straight row. Off-grid power is certainly a developing area, but requires understanding and finances to acquire it. Cows can be very messy and are bigger than you may realize. They also do not always stay where you put them!
However the determination to try this lifestyle can win out and you find yourself with a hobby farmstead. One of the animals showing up more and more in hobby farms are GOATS! These adorable and endearing creatures can be fun to raise, they can also be a real headache if not prepared for. Getting a call at work by a distraught neighbor whose flower garden is now nothing but a patch of stems is not your goal.
To get your goat and enjoy her ownership requires some planning and knowledge. Fences - proper ones - are a must. You should have your fences at least 4' tall and of sturdy woven wire. Ridged panels can also be used. Fencing is one area you do NOT want to go cheap or 'good enough' since goat will test their boundaries. They will rub on the fence and climb on it. They just do!
Goats hate to get wet so be sure to include a shelter of some sort. It can be as simple as a three-sided shed with a roof for her to get into out of the weather or as elaborate as you want to have it. It should be warm enough for the winter months as well. Adding hay or straw on the floor will keep her out of the mud and on a warm, dry bed. It will need cleaned out every so often...use that old bedding on your garden! Your plants will love it.
Goats do not eat anything and everything. They need a proper diet of browse and fresh water. Browse includes things like brush, bushes, trees and such. They will walk, take a bite, walk, take another bite. They browse much like deer. They like fresh, clean browse and will chose that over grass. If you have them on a small lot without much browse you will need to provide them fresh hay in a feeder. If they pull hay out onto the ground, and they will, and they step on it they will not eat it! It is the same with their grain. If they are fed on the ground and it gets 'dirty' they will not eat it. They must also have fresh water every day.
Goats can survive in a small paddock but they will not thrive like they would if let out on pasture. Even an acre or two of browse or even grasses is preferable to a small lot. Do not ever tie your goat out! They can choke on their leash or be harassed and even killed by neighborhood dogs. When you tie her for milking, feeding or grooming be sure to stay with her and keep an eye on her.
Milking is easy enough to do by hand and is actually quite an enjoyable time for you to get to know your goat better. While milking you can inspect her for injuries, bumps and scrapes. You will want a milking stand and a dish for her to eat from while you milk. Use a stainless steel bucket to collect the milk in and be sure to keep everything clean before, during and after milking. Always clean and sterilize your bucket after use.
To get her milking you will need to have her bred. The farm you buy her from will be able to help you find a buck to breed her to. Then you get to enjoy one of the most amazing things ever...the birth of new life into the world! Those kids can be awfully cute! Before you know it you will have several goats in that area you fenced so be sure you think of that during it's construction.. The kids that she produces can be sold for profit..either as bottle babies or after they're weaned.
Getting your goat and bringing her home is a fun adventure. Be prepared and it will be enjoyable as well.

Can I Keep a Hedgehog As a Pet?

Hedgehogs are cute little creatures, their faces very appealing. Of course, they have spines too so they aren't exactly great for petting or stroking, but they certainly aren't dangerous like porcupines either.

Legal:
First off, let me stress that in most countries it is illegal to keep a wild hedgehogs as a pet, and many are considered to be endangered species. The wild variety are not tamed either, and you shouldn't attempt to pet or approach one. Many people do have hedgehogs as pets though - these are specially bred species called African Pygmy hedgehogs, are actually a genetic blend of many different smaller hedgehogs than the typical wild variety. From a young age they are handled so as to be tame.

Size:
Typical pet hedgehogs of the African Pygmy variety are around 20cm in length. When relaxed, the "quills" or spines of the hedgehogs are quite safe to touch, and will only erect if the hedgehog feels it is in danger somehow.

Choosing Your Pet:
When you go to choose your potential hedgehog, take time to carefully handle it and ensure it is tame. You may also feel a certain connection with one. Make sure the nose and eyes are clear of disease or blockage, and that it isn't overly obese or skinny.

First Steps:
When you get it home (use a cardboard box for transport with a towel at the bottom for comfort), make sure you have a cage or larger box for a few days until it is comfortable with the new environment.

After a few days to acclimatize itself, you should be able to pick it up. Don;t be discouraged if it rolls defensively into a ball at first, it may take a while longer until it is used to you personally. If you continue to hold it, it will naturally sense there is no danger and will relax before exploring your hands, and you.

Ideally you will have a cage to keep the animal in, at least a rabbit hut size. It will need a small nesting box to hide in, and a litter box that is kept away from the food and water.

Food:
Hedgehogs are known as "insectivores" which means, you guessed it - they like to eat insects. You should feed a balanced diet of various insects, pet food that is clearly marked as for hedgehogs, and small amounts of fruit. Your local pet store should be able to help you out with all these.

Primates As Pets

Many people have a soft spot for baby monkeys. Just one look into their oversized brown eyes and a glance over their mess of fur can disable even the hardest heart. Over the years, Hollywood has even contributed to the idea that primates can coexist with humans as pets and even friends but the reality is monkeys are still wild animals and most of the time, they are unfit to live in suburban homes as pets. Those cute, innocent baby monkeys mature sexually between 18-24 months and can often turn violent or aggressive with his or her owner and visitors.

There are rare cases where primates work well as pets but because of how unpredictable they can be, it is important to understand what exactly one is getting into when adopting a primate as a pet.

Problems with Primates as Pets

Primates can live between 20 and 40 years and need a great amount of attention from humans. Some can even develop social behavior problems if they don't get enough attention. It is important to remember:

Monkeys need a lot of attention and don't take to new people very well
Primates can be very expensive to care for
Monkeys are illegal in many states
Babies turn in to adults quickly and can turn aggressive
Primates can pass many diseases to humans
Many cannot be efficiently toilet trained and can be messy
Some will be destructive if they get bored
Above all you should remember that primates are wild animals and can resort to natural instincts in certain instances and can act violently. Taking care of a primate is a big commitment and should be treated as such.

Ferret Nation for Ferret Abode

Your extraordinarily active ferret probably does a lot of moving about in the house, often meddling with your daily routine. There naturally would prop up situations where your ferret would be better off in a cage, like almost every other domestic animal, and be left to itself. Such cages, which can accommodate a considerable number of ferrets at the same time, will come in handy in ferret rescue organizations too.

If your imagination took you to a nation of ferrets, as the title deceptively suggests, you are deeply mistaken. Ferret nation is a brand of cages for ferrets, obviously used to cage ferrets, when you do not want them running around the house, or to pet them in ferret rescue services.

There are a large number of requirements you would want to put forward when you plan to buy one. Primarily, you want it to be easy to maintain and keep clean, with the least effort. You would also prefer a cage which can expand its size with the arrival of more ferrets. You would want it to be adequately spacious. You would also like it if the cage is movable, so that you can shift your ferret's abode when you are required to.

Ferret nation you look for in a ferret cage is available in Ferret nation. Ferrets cages are by no means any lesser smelly realizes the needs of a ferret owner, and the tiny animal's wants as well, and hence all that or dirty than other pet cages, and Ferret nation comes with doors that open into the cage, which lets you easily clean every nook and corner of the cage. They are less cramped as opposed to most other cages.

The assemblage of the cage is effortless, too, and is recognized as one of the best features of the brand. The hemmer tone finish makes sure that the cage remains intact, even if your furry pet takes it to be a urinal. It doesn't rust, has storage place for you to store its food, toys, etc. The latching mechanism makes it impossible for your ferret to let itself out when it is in the mood for a bit of adventure, Safe, secure, and trouble-free, to sum it all up.

So You Think You Want a Sugar Glider?

Sugar Gliders are not a craze or a fad, they are delicate and unusual pets that need extensive care, they can be very expensive and time consuming to keep.

They need a specialist diet, you cannot pop into your local pet shop to buy what they will need.

Oh yes, they look so cute, and sweet... and fluffy..., but don't be fooled! They are ferocious predators, in the wild they will easily catch small animals, they are natural born killers!

This gives you a clue that they can and will bite, they have very small, very sharp teeth as well as very strong little feet with claws. A forum I use calls them fluffy Cobras... sounds funny doesn't it? I mean, they are so sweet, so small and cuddly looking.. well trust me on this, Snuggie owners know exactly why they have this nickname, it is a very good description.

They are fast and furious and the noise they make will make you jump out of your skin.

If you are thinking of breeding these fascinating creatures, ask yourself why, then consider if anything upsets the parents they are quite likely to kill and eat their own Joeys. If their diet is wrong, again they are likely to turn cannibalistic.

Could you cope with that?

You think you could? Fine, how about their rather delightful toilet habits? They cannot control their bowel or bladder and will mess everywhere they go... and they can get to many places you couldn't.

They are aromatic little critters, they will wee all over you and rub their scent over everything, if you scrub and clean, they will simply scent mark all the more, a vicious circle.

Sugar Gliders are not for the squeamish

I've read of stories of owners sadly finding one of their much loved pets has died, if that wasn't horrible enough, these devastated owners have found their companions have eaten the eyes from their dead mate..

Not something you'd want your child to find one morning really is it?

Still reading?

They need a large cage, the bigger the better, they need time out of that cage for the essential poop spreading they are so good at, they also need plenty of toys and things to do, they are clever little things and easily get bored, so buy safe toys and change them often to keep them occupied, yes... more expense!

make sure the cage is secure, they are fantastic escape artists!

They love live insects and during feeding you'll see just how lightning fast they can be... amazing to watch, fairly gross when they take great pleasure in throwing bits of insect back at you.

They are nocturnal and have very delicate eyes, you cannot keep them in a brightly lit room, that would be very cruel... can you live in semi-darkness?

No bright TV's or fancy lights please, that's just nasty.

So you think you can handle all that? Yeah you think you want a Glider?

No, sorry again you are wrong, you cannot have a Glider, they are social animals that live in colonies, if you try and keep one, alone... it probably will die.

They need other Gliders, without company they are highly likely to self mutilate and die very quickly never ever consider keeping a Glider on it's own, that is selfish and cruel.

So we've got this far and you're still reading... that's good, however I am no expert and would highly recommend you reading and digesting all of the information you can get hold of.

Also make sure your local Vet knows about and can help you care for your Gliders.

Ferret Hammocks - Ideal Gift for Your Pet

You must have read that ferrets are very social creatures and have a lot of energy and are always up to something. This is true, but it is applicable only when they are awake. The fact is that ferrets spend nearly 15-20 hours in a day sleeping. You want to give the best conditions for your pet so that it can sleep comfortably. A ferret hammock is a very good option in this regard. It is becoming very popular and fashionable too, nowadays, to have a hammock for your pet. This is a good trend, as far as your pet is concerned.

Need

In their natural habitats, ferrets reside in cozy, dark holes. Hammocks replicate these conditions inside the cage. They fit snugly around your pet keeping it comfortable and provide it warmth, but also ensure a good ventilation since they are open. Even while awake, your pet prefers to stick to darker places and the hammock thus becomes an ideal plaything too.

Choosing and buying

Choosing an appropriate hammock for your ferret is important. You can have a small sized one if you have just one ferret or a large one for many. Also they are available in different shapes, such as flat hammocks, boot-shaped hammocks etc. Choosing the right material for the lining of the hammock is essential to provide warmth to your pet. Fleece is a very good choice and is very much preferred nowadays.

You can buy a hammock for a pet store nearby which stocks them. This lets you personally test it. The second option that you have is to buy one over the internet. This lets you choose from a wide range of products. Also, the products are reviewed by many people and this gives you better idea of which one to pick. The third option is to make one on your own. This is a very easy task and also gives you the liberty to personalize the hammock.

Having a ferret hammock for your beloved pet is a very good idea, as it not only provides comfort to your pet when it is sleeping, but also acts as a plaything. All this, at a very economical price too.

Understanding Hamsters Cages And Supplies

Regardless of the type of pet you plan to adopt, always be certain you have a unique home or habitat setup specifically for them, along with, all of the essential needs specific to the particular species, as a way to minimize the trauma and stress encountered when having to adjust to life in a brand new environment.

The first step before buying your pet, should be to determine which one of the various hamsters cages will be large enough to facilitate a healthy amount of activity, safe enough to prevent injury from falls or entanglement and should be easy to clean, thereby accommodating a regular schedule for hygiene and maintenance.

Substrate and bedding are important considerations, and should always include certain precautions. Wood shavings are commonly recommended and used by many pet owners, however hamsters should never be exposed to certain types of wood. Pine and cedar can cause respiratory and digestive problems for your little dwarf hamster, so it's a much safer option to insist on Aspen. An even better choice is the readily available paper and fiber-based bedding products available at most pet suppliers. Cotton nesting material is another old favorite that can cause problems when tangled around the toes. A better alternative, and much cheaper option will be to shred toilet paper or facial tissue and allow your hamster to utilize the safer material.

Always choose a high quality commercial food for your hamster pet. Food pellets typically offer a nutritionally balanced diet that's generally better than the loose mixtures of seeds and other dried components. Like most other animals, hamsters will pick out what they like and leave the rest, which unfortunately may not be the most nutritious portion.

Hamsters food dishes should be of a style that is difficult to turn over, thus spilling the contents all over the cage floor. A shallow stainless steel or ceramic material is preferred, since it's sturdy enough to resist damage from chewing and is of a material that is easily cleaned. A hanging water bottle, with a stainless steel leak proof spout is the most commonly utilized option for providing water to your hamster.

Hamsters love a hideaway to sleep and just hang out when in need of privacy, but most options are inconvenient because of issues dealing with destruction (chewing) or soiled, smelly and difficulty in cleaning. The most convenient and least expensive is a small cardboard box. Sure, they'll destroy it, but it can easily be replaced and most likely at zero cost. Additionally, a hamster wheel or hamster ball is an absolute necessity. The dwarf hamsters will most likely require the exercise ball for issues of escape and safety. And, of course you'll need a variety of items to chew on, to maintain their constantly growing teeth and climb up and down on and expend their high metabolic energy output.

And, a final note if you promise not to laugh, is a "hamster potty". Yeah, not too many people are familiar with this issue, but you can pick it up at some pet stores. The trick is to place it in the spot where you notice the majority of droppings in the hamsters cage and your little furry friend will make his deposits right in the little potty. All you have to do is empty it and refill it with hay or newspaper pellet-type of kitty litter. Wow, what'll they think of next?

Feeding Squirrels The Right Way

Few people realize the importance of feeding squirrels a well balanced and nutritious diet. After all, they're only squirrels! Good squirrel nutrition is very important for some very logical reasons. There are people who love to hate squirrels, but squirrels play a very important role in our world. For those who take the time to observe them, squirrels can offer an endless supply of zany behavior that can bring a smile to your face and amaze you with their resolute ability to entertain. Squirrels also play a much larger role in the food chain.

As much as I love squirrels, the harsh reality is that squirrels are at the bottom of the food chain. The only thing lower is the occasional insect or grub worm that a squirrel will eat. Other animals depend on the squirrel to make up part of their diet. Therefore, it's vitally important that the squirrel population be as healthy as possible. This fact is becoming even more critical as more predatory animals expand their range. Here in Ohio, the coyote could only be found in our Zoos 20 years ago. Today, coyotes have a growing population in all 88 counties. This puts a tremendous strain on the rabbit and squirrels population, that is felt all the way up the food chain! Limited numbers of game animals, such as squirrels and rabbits, will limit the ability of hawks and eagles to thrive.

Good squirrel nutrition translates into good hawk and eagle nutrition. We live in a cause and effect world. If you spray toxins on the ground, rivers become polluted and fish die. People who eat only fast food often develope problems with obesity or heart disease. The same is true with feeding squirrels. If you feed them junk food, they do not stay healthy and they become an unhealthy food for other animals.

Squirrels are like little children in many ways. They will eat almost anything as long as it tastes good. Just because a squirrel like to eat something doesn't mean it's good for them. Two common items people tend to feed squirrels are field corn and peanuts. Neither of these items are natural foods for squirrels unless they happen to live by a corn field or a peanut farm. Both have very poor nutritional value for squirrels, yet both carry a very high possibility of poisoning the squirrel. When corn or peanuts get wet, they become an ideal medium for growing Aspergillus Flavus, or Aflatoxin. Aflatoxin is a carcinogenic, (cancer causing,) mycotoxin that will attack a squirrel's liver and kill them.

Squirrels are herbivores, which means that their diet should mainly consist of vegetables. To keep squirrels as healthy as possible, they should only eat high quality vegetables, seeds, nuts and small quantities of fruit. When squirrels are in the wild and away from humans, they will naturally seek out these items. The problem comes when they depend on humans for most of their daily diet. If humans feed them peanuts and corn only, it's equivalent to taking them to a fast food restaurant, with the distinct possibility of killing them. It becomes even more of a problem when one person tries to feed them right, while all their neighbors continue to feed them junk.

This problem is not insurmountable. There are now companies that specialize in Squirrel Nutrition! Some even provide you with easy and free recipes that make food and Squirrel supplements that squirrels really enjoy, yet provide the vital vegetables and nutrients that keep them tip top health. You only need to Google "Squirrel Nutrition," to find ways to start feeding your backyard friends the right way!

Environmental Enrichment For Your Rat Or Mouse

Rats & mice are extremely active and intelligent animals, and thus require exercise and mental stimulation for optimal health. These animals are often purchased as pets for children and many are housed in smaller than adequate cages with only the bare essentials such as food, water and an exercise wheel. Just imagine how bored you would be living in a bare room with an exercise bike as the only form of mental and physical activity?

There are a number of fun and easy ways you can provide toys and enrich the environment of your pet rat or mouse:

Toys to CHEW - These are necessary for dental health, as rodents teeth grow continuously throughout their life and need to be constantly worn down. Safe chew toys for rats and mice include rawhide chews, nylabones, untreated wood, cardboard rolls, boxes and egg cartons.

Toys to SHRED - Softer items such as toilet paper or tissues, sisal rope and straw provide hours of entertainment for your pet rat or mouse. They particularly enjoy shredding these substances to use as bedding material to line their sleeping areas. Ensure you do not give your pets any toys containing soft rubber, soft plastics, leather or string as these materials can cause an intestinal obstruction.

Toys to PUSH & CARRY - Many rats and mice love to carry or push small toys around. Sturdy, hollow plastic cat toys with bells inside or acrylic toys provide great entertainment for your pet.

CLIMBING Toys - Ladders, branches, hammocks, ropes, PVC tubes, boxes and bird perches can provide numerous climbing opportunities for your pet rat or mouse. These items can be secured to the sides or top of the cage to increase the amount of play area in your pet's cage.

FORAGING Toys - Rats and mice in the wild spend much of their day foraging for food. In captivity, we often put out a bowl of food for our pet rat or mouse and that bowl is simply placed in the same area, with the same food in it every day. Our pets quickly become lazy, bored and overweight from the lack of enrichment and foraging opportunities in their lives. Provide your pet rat or mouse with mental stimulation by hiding their food in specially designed foraging toys, treat balls, cardboard rolls or tubes. Bird foraging toys made from bamboo or cholla cactus can also be used for rodents.

TUNNELS - Rats and mice in the wild use and construct tunnels from items in their environment on a regular basis. Tunnels made of sturdy plastic, acrylic or PVC can be placed in the cage or attached to the side or top of your pet's house. Ensure you select a tunnel with a large enough diameter to prevent your rat or mouse from becoming stuck in the tunnel. Blocks of untreated wood can also be hollowed out to make tunnels which rats and mice may enlarge themselves. You can provide ready-made tunnels for your pet, or allow them to construct their own from various materials provided in their environment.

EXERCISE WHEELS & BALLS - Activity wheels provide an excellent way for your rat or mouse to exercise within the confines of their cage. Solid wheels made from plastic or acrylic are safer and preferable over wheels with wire bars that can trap your pet's feet or tail.

Exercise balls are also a great fitness tool for your rat or mouse outside of the cage. Always monitor your pet while they are playing in an exercise ball to ensure they do not overheat and are always playing in a safe, flat area.

If you have a pet rat or mouse, use your imagination and enrich their life by providing them with a range of toys that will keep them entertained for hours.

Ferret Colors - The Two Main Types

Usually pets like dogs and cats are classified based on their appearances and origins. This is possible because of the large variations in the different varieties. Ferrets, however, do not show many differences in their physical characteristics. They are therefore classified depending on the ferret color and pattern of coloration. The fur of ferrets is made up of "undercoat", which is the original coat, and the "guardhair," which is the long hair. Ferrets are present in many different colors. The coloration considered is that of the guardhair. However, they can all be primarily categorized into albino and sable. The white colored variant is the albino ferret whereas all the remaining colored ones are variants of sable.

Albino ferrets

Albino ferrets are so called because they lack pigments responsible for coloration. That is why they are white in color. The whiteness can vary from a pure white to a yellowish white. They usually have red eyes and pink noses. There are also some varieties with black eyes. These are called Dark eyed white (DEW) ferrets. Albinos have a very endearing appearance and are very popular among ferret-owners.

Sable ferrets

The color sable is a type of a rich brown. It is so dark that it appears black at times. Sable ferrets have brown to black colored guardhair. They have an undercoat that is cream colored and dark brown or black eyes. They also have a mask pattern across their faces. Depending on the intensity of the color, guardhair might appear chocolate, cinnamon or champagne. These are quite common and have lead to some people classifying these as different groups.

The patterning of color on the ferret is also very important and contributes to the identity of your pet. One thing to keep in mind is that ferrets tend to change their color over the natural course of their lives. Silver ferrets tend to turn into DEW ferrets. Similarly, some ferrets may gain and some may lose their color. Therefore, you must not base your choice totally on the ferret color. You must pay more attention to their personality as this is more important.

Ferret Forum - Everything You Need To Know

Sometimes, everyone needs some help with their pets from people who have had same experiences with theirs. The other times they simply want to share their pets' stories and have fun. This is exactly what a Ferret forum is made for. It is a community of people who own a ferret, adore the animal or want to know more about it. Where else can you find accurate information about the little exotic pet?

About ferrets

Ferrets are small creatures, active and very smart but also mischievous. They are quick learners - use a few commands and they will start responding in a few days. If you haven't seen this animal before, imagine an animal between cats and dogs, only smaller. Ferrets are great pets and a lot of fun. You can learn a lot about this domestic animal if you search a Ferret forum - true stories, about their health and nutrition and also some tricks that you can teach them.

Teaching them tricks

Ferrets don't do tricks to please the owner - they do it to get something from them. Therefore, it's a good idea to bribe them when teaching them a new trick. The first thing you can teach your Ferret is responding to its name. Just like dogs, Ferrets also follow commands; they can easily start to recognize their name. Call them repeatedly by their names and when they look at you, reward them to appreciate the effort. Soon, they will leave everything and come running whenever you call them because they know you will treat them with something.

Roll over is an easy maneuver. Make your Ferret lie on its belly and give it a treat. Say "roll over" and roll it over to its back and give another treat. Keep repeating the exercise, giving it scratches and treats and before you know, it will roll over on its own expecting a treat.

The forums also carry information on how to discipline the Ferrets and train them to behave. They are playful and sometimes they could be a bit of trouble. The suggested method is to spray them with water when they're misbehaving but some Ferrets actually enjoy it. Thumping their nose is another way. Ferrets are not afraid of danger and they find trouble somehow. Therefore, you have to watch them carefully to keep them out of harm's way.

An Ideal Pet Rabbit Cage

If you know what you are looking for, purchasing pet rabbit cages is not at all difficult. If you are an experienced pet owner then you need to have right knowledge on size, shape and material of cage. In order to know more about rabbit cages, you should follow tips mentioned in the following paragraphs. They will be of great help in choosing the right cage for your rabbit.

Nowadays, besides the type of material as well as the size, people are also opting considering the fashion aspect. You have to make a homey cage for the rabbit. Comfort is no doubt one of the most important aspects to be considered when you opt for these cages, but so is fashion. You will find plenty of trendy cages available in the market these days.

Bigger cages are no doubt recommended, but it's not that you have to opt only for the bigger cages; sometimes smaller cages prove to be better than bigger ones. Rabbits and bunnies are very restless and fidgety, thus you have to choose the size of the cage accordingly.

Your pet rabbit grows gradually, so it can outgrow the cage. Thus, you need to dump the old one and buy a new and a spacious one to meet all your expenses. So keeping these things in mind you need to get hold of a buffer sized rabbit cage. A frail one will involve braking of the cage and it will force you to shell out more extra money. Ventilation should be proper as you don't want your pet to feel suffocated inside the cage. If they cages are aerated appropriately this implies that they have fresher air to breather. You need to also wrap your pet rabbit in a comfortable way otherwise he will die due to cold.

You will find lot of rabbit cages that are made of net walls and wire floors. Wood floor cages are more preferred than wired ones. Wire cages can leads to skin cuts and endure fur loss. The base of the floor should be sturdy and lightweight.

You should make sure that the cages you are buying should be weather resistant also. Rust is one of the most common problems in these cages. So make sure you only opt for high quality cages.

Love Rabbits

Rabbits are among the most adorable pets. They are very soft natured. However, there might be many reasons behind changing behavior of rabbits. This article will make you aware of some of the most common reasons behind changing behavior of rabbits.

One of the major reasons might be that your pet has not been neutered or spayed. Whenever you buy a baby rabbit, you will notice a sudden change in his behavior or personality once he or she attains the age of 3-4 months. The cause of the change of the behavior is that he undergoes a hormonal change and age of reproduction. During this phase, rabbits tend to become territorial and resists being picked up. Thus, you should not try to touch it too much. If you want to make him happy then you should put a nice treat inside the cage.

Female rabbits in particular get rebellious and they growl sometimes. Many pet owners assume that the rabbit is mean and they want to get rid of it as soon as possible. However, once it passes this phase he will cool down and will return to its normal composure. So you have to adjust to his changing habits when he is in the transition phase.

It might be very much possible that your rabbit is sick. Changing behaviors is a vital sign of medical fitness. So if your rabbit is showing a nasty behavior then do check whether he is ill or not. He might be in pain. His eating bowl and litter box are the two areas which you should check, any change in the regular eating or filling habits needs to be checked. Even small problems like mites and fleas may upset your rabbit. To counteract this, you need to get the medical checkup of your pet done.

Another reason might be that your rabbit is under some stress. Sometimes rabbit is not too comfortable with the presence of other pets. Sometime barking dogs tend to irritate the pet rabbits and thus you should make sure that they are comfortable in their cages or homes. Noise causes irritation in pets, thus make necessary arrangements. In this case, you have to move the cage to a silent room.

Rabbits are silent, soft natured and loyal. They also love to play and interact with people. All they require is little love and care and everything will work for sure.

Getting a Hamster and Giving It Your Best

Your hamster deserves the best. Now you have decided on the Hamster, you will need to think comfort. If you want it to have the best possible experience you need to consider its living environment. For the most part you will need to have the right accessories in your hamsters cage.

This will ensure that your new pet has a luxury living experience and is not hampered by any unnecessary injuries that could have been avoided. The Hamster is a very cute pet to buy, and will bring joy and happiness to the whole family.

Here is something to consider when buying cage accessories

When you decide to get a cage for your Hamster, you need to think about the things that you put in the cage. What you put in the cage will keep your pet occupied. There are a number of things that you can look at such as accessories for climbing. There are a number of different climbers that can be put in a Hamsters cage so its up to you to find the best one.

The different types of accessories may involve, tubing, hamster wheels and tunnels, which will keep your pet occupied. All of these will provide plenty of variety for your pet. When you have the right balance of accessories in the cage you can sit back and watch the Hamster play the whole day. Its a nice sight to see your pet happy.

Buying accessories for a Hamsters cage is an important part of having this pet. You will need to think carefully about what you put in the cage. Having the wrong accessories in a cage may cause more harm than good. You should stay away from anything that your hamster could potential get its foot trapped in.

HOME » Pets How To Serve Pet Supplements

Pet supplements can be easy for any animal to take advantage of. Many supplements for cats and dogs can work with easy to handle formulas that will not be too difficult for a person to prepare. Here is a look at how a person can easily serve one of these supplements.

A person will need to take the formula and prepare it without any additional materials. Most of these pet supplements will be in liquid forms. This is a form that will be easy to handle and measure. This can be simple for anyone to use when preparing something for one's pet.

A typical supplement should be shaken before it is given out. This is so the supplement will have all of its contents in an area. This is needed to ensure that the pet supplement will work properly. It is so the right ingredients will be in the mixture. This is critical because of how some ingredients can bind with each other during the settling process.

A correct measurement will be needed after the supplement is ready. The measurement will vary according to the weight of the pet. For example, two teaspoons of a supplement could be used for an animal who is fifteen pounds in weight or less. Meanwhile, one tablespoon could be used for an animal that is 16 to 30 pounds in weight. Four tablespoons can be used for a pet that is 31 to 50 pounds. One ounce, or two tablespoons, should be used for one that is 51 to 100 pounds in weight. Some special types of supplements will be needed for people who are 101 pounds or greater in weight.

A good part of serving supplements is that they can be mixed in some drinks. A good supplement can be mixed in a water dish. This may be used to make it easier for an animal to use the supplement. This is critical because of how some animals might not be fully interested in some kinds of pet supplements due to their flavors.

Many supplements can even be mixed into food bowls. This is where a supplement can be added to a food that is already wet. This is especially useful for animals that eat wet food over dry food. This can work to make the supplement get added into a pet's diet without any concerns. It is much easier to do this for wet food than with dry food.

It is smart to see how supplements can be served. These supplements can be handled in ways that involve getting one to receive the right materials in a supplement in an effective manner. Be sure to see this factor when getting a supplement to work for your pet's needs.

7 Things to Remember When Shopping For and Setting Up Your Chinchilla Cage

Chinchillas, as owners can attest, are hyperactive. Thus, when setting up your cage, don't just settle on the cheap or the good-looking ones. Here are 7 things to check first when buying/setting-up your cage.

1. Go large - the chinchillas are creature that loves to run around and jump and play. Therefore, a small cage won't do well if they can just eat and walk around a little bit. Plus, you won't have the enjoyment of seeing them in the loose.

2. Wood or metal - some prefer wood for their exterior and some prefer metals for the durability. Whatever the case, make sure it is non toxic and make sure it will last as a good value in exchange for your money. After all, it will be your chinchillas who will be the final judge.

3. Mesh - many people don't like the mesh with smaller holes due to they are hard to clean. However, bigger size mesh has been the cause of many foot and toe injuries among the chinchillas. They run around and jump so if it's not the correct size, they surely can get caught and be injured in the process.

4. Levels - will it only be a single level or two or three with ladders? Chinchillas easily get bored and may result to unwanted behavior if they can't run around and play. Just make sure that if they accidentally fall from higher level, the mesh can provide adequate cushion.

5. Play items- this includes a good Chinchilla wheel, balls, hammocks, climbing decks, etc. They are extremely playful and if you don't provide them something to play with, then you lost the purpose of keeping them...an idle chin, one that just sits and eats, is an unhappy chin!

6. Mobility- Do you have to carry the entire weight of the cage when moving it or does it have wheels for easily doing so? Are they constructed as a whole or were they assembled inside your house? Would they fit out the door for a dose of sunshine for your chinchillas or when you need to transfer?

7. Waste tray and feeders- The waste tray and the feeders should be easily removable for cleaning. The feeder should be easy to refill if you do it on a daily basis or should be functioning well if you have one of those bulk ones.

It is a fun way to spend the day when you're watching or even playing with your chinchilla.

Giving Your Tea Cup Piggie a Bath

Most pigs don't like the feel of water - except when they're very hot and using it to cool off. They also don't like the slippery, wet tiles in the bathroom as they can easily lose their footing. Getting in and out is a pretty difficult process as well if you have little stubby legs!

To get your pig used to being bathed, gradually start getting your piggy used to being in the bathroom with no negative experiences. Cover the floor of the bathroom with non skid rugs so he can't lose his footing. Even if you have to stuff your pig full of food to do so, get him in to the bathroom and have him used to being in there. When he is in the bathroom, give him praise and a special treat. You can also get him to perform some simple tricks like sit or spin to show him that bathrooms can be fun places too. Repeat this process every few days until your pig is happy going into the bathroom without too much trouble.

When you're at this point, you can start to turn on the taps - just to get him used to hearing the running water. Give him a treat when the water is running and turn it on and off a few times and every time you turn it back on, give your pig another treat. This conditions the piglet to understand that turning on the water is a good thing and not something to be afraid of.

Although you can use a bathtub to bathe your pig, it's easier to do so in a shower stall as he won't feel so confined. The next step in the process is to start getting him used to going into a shower stall. This may take a while, but you can slowly get him in there using a line of grapes on the floor and a small pile at the end of the line. Once he's happy going into the stall, gradually add a small amount of standing water in the stall and increase the depth of the water each training session. Make sure the temperature is perfect (use the same method as for checking the water temp for a baby) as if it's too hot to too cold your piggy won't like it. Every time your pig gets his hooves wet, reinforce it with the voice command "Bath".

When your piglet is in the stall, start introducing him to water slowly by massaging his back with wet hands. Use very little pressure. When you want to introduce baby shampoo (make sure it's mild), let him sniff it first. Of course while this is going on, you need to continually feed and reassure your pig so he doesn't get frightened. It's usually best to have a second person do this task as it gets too much for one person to handle.

When you have finished, you can towel your piglet off using warm towels straight from the dryer to give him a massage. They like the feel of the warm towel and it will reinforce bath time as a relaxing, pleasurable time for your piglet.

You can use a bath as well, but it would pay to put him in the bath when it's dry a few times for him to get used to the bath. If he tries to jump out, just command him to sit. You should also line the bottom of the bath with towels so he doesn't get frightened and lose traction.

If you can learn to associate bath time with a good experience for the pig, it will make the entire process a whole lot easier and in time your pig will learn to love it.