Cockatiel Diseases - A Description of 3 Pet Cockatiel Illnesses

Cockatiels are generally hardy birds which helps make them one of the most popular pet birds. However, there are illnesses that are specific to the species. Getting to know what is normal for your bird (and normal is different for birds even of the same species) will help you to know when there is a problem and allow you to get help quickly. Here are 3 descriptions of diseases and their symptoms.

Pacheco's Virus has proven to be nearly 100% fatal because of its hard to detect symptoms and aggressive attack on the bird's system. Caused by the herpes virus, it is generally spread from one bird to another through spoiled food, water, and droppings; and birds that are stressed seem more susceptible. There has been some success in treatment with the use of a vaccine, but it causes side effects that are almost as problematic as the disease itself, mainly tumors at the injection site, paralysis, and death. It is the larger parrots that seem to have most of the negative reactions to the vaccine. The best defense seems to be a powerful offense on the owner's part by staying alert for any changes in your bird's eating patterns, elimination, energy level, or onset of discharge of any kind and then getting your bird professional help immediately.

Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease often abbreviated as PBFD is cause by a virus--psittacine circovirus 1 (PsCV-1), that attacks the immune system that presents with loss of feathers, deformed development of beaks, nails, and claws. Birds showing any of these symptoms should be immediately tested for the disease as early detection increases the chance of survival exponentially. This disease spreads through airborne dander, feather, dried fecal matter and secretions from the infected bird, easily infects other birds, but cannot be passed to humans. The good news is that often young birds survive and form a natural immunity to the disease.

Psittacosis sometimes referred to as Parrot Fever or Bird Fancier's Lung (BFL), is a disease that all species of birds are susceptible to, and one that can be passed to humans as well. Pet birds are the most frequent transmitters of the disease especially many types of Parrots. Because it is caused by virus-like bacteria, it can be effectively treated with antibiotics when detected early. There is a good recovery rate for birds and humans. Spread from minute particle of infected fecal matter that dries and becomes airborne, it is a menace to other birds as well.

How to Buy Cockatiel Cages

Cockatiels, small parrots with a crest available in a variety of color patterns, are quite popular birds. If you're looking for a cage for your cockatiel, there are a few things you need to consider. Cages designed for other types usually aren't suitable. This article will share with you some of the things you need to consider when buying cockatiel cages.
Size

One of the most important decisions you'll have to make is about size. Your bird will likely be very active, so you should provide him with a relatively large cage. It should at least be wide enough so that he can fully spread his wings without hitting the side of the cage. At a minimum, the cage should be 20 inches x 20 inches wide.

The height of the cage is also important. There should be enough space for you to erect two perches in the cage at different levels. With this in mind, look for a cage that is between 16 and 26 inches tall.

Bars

You also need to pay attention to the spacing between the bars when buying cockatiel cages. It's important that the bars are spaced no more than 3/4 inches apart. If the spacing is any wider, your bird may get his head stuck in between. You or your bird certainly don't want that. Also, look for a design that also has horizontal bars. Your cockatiel will enjoy climbing on them which counts as exercise.

Floor

It's also a good idea to look for a cage that has a floor grate. Cockatiels spend a lot of time on the floor of their cages. A floor grate will help you clean up droppings easily.

Signs of a Sick Cockatiel

Like most birds, cockatiels are very good at masking signs of health problems. Most diseases aren't detected until they have already reached an advanced stage. Therefore, you need to keep a close eye on your bird so you'll know when there's something wrong. Here are a few signs of a sick cockatiel that every owner should know.
Weight

If possible, you should try to weigh your bird on a daily basis. Sick cockatiels will slowly lose weight everyday, so you'll easily be able to detect the loss. Losing weight means that your bird isn't eating as much as usual, a sure sign that there's something wrong.

Vomiting

One of the more obvious signs of a sick cockatiel is vomiting. This is one of the most serious symptoms that your bird can develop. It can be a sign that he has a crop infection, blocked gizzard, or is suffering from heavy metal poisoning. You should seek veterinary help as soon as possible if your bird experiences recurring episodes of vomiting.

Sneezing

Another common symptom is sneezing. This is usually caused by a sinus infection. However, sinus infections can be due to various reasons, so a veterinarian will have to determine the cause. Bacterial infections, fungal infections, or conditions such as Psittacosis are usually to blame.

Feather Picking

One of the next common signs of a sick cockatiel is feather picking. This can be caused by a parasitic infection or an underlying disease. Sometimes, it's just the result of behavioral problems. In some cases, it can be a combination of both. The vet will have to rule out disease as the underlying cause.

Screeching

If you've kept your bird for a while, you should know how much noise it usually makes. Excessive screeching is a sign that something is wrong. Like feather picking, it can be caused by parasites, disease, or just a behavioral problem.

Expert Tips For Training Cockatiels to Talk

Although cockatiels are a bit more difficult to train than other members of the parrot family, it can be done. If you're thinking about training your bird to talk, there are a few things you should know to make the process a little easier. Here are a few tips for training cockatiels to talk.
Interest

You should be aware that these birds will only try to repeat words that they're interested in. If they show little interest when you say the word, then it's pretty much guaranteed that they won't try to say it. You can easily tell if he's interested when you say something.

Simplicity

When training cockatiels to talk, it's best to start out very simple. Don't try to teach them big words or phrases from the start. Instead, begin with a word that has only one syllable. Keep repeating this word during every training session. Don't move on to a new one until your bird has learned the first one.

Sex

You also need to consider the sex of your bird when training it. If you want a talking cockatiel, then it's best to get a male as opposed to a female. Male birds can mimic human speech much easier than their female counterparts. It's pretty hard to tell what sex your bird is if he's young, so you may need outside help in determining the sex.

Treats

It's best to have treats handy while training cockatiels to talk. If he shows interest in what you're saying, then you should give him a treat. This will encourage your bird to listen better and try to mimic the word.

Wooden Bird Cages

Gone are the days of boring bird cages. Today’s bird cages are trendy. They are stylish. They make a statement about the owner’s taste and lifestyle. Bird cages can blend in artfully with the décor or they can stand in bold contrast. Bird cages are available in many different themes and styles. Modern, whimsical, simplistic, Victorian, Oriental, Tuscan, Arabian —bird cages are available in these styles and more.

Some of the most beautiful cages in any style are wooden bird cages. They can be made of most any wood—cherry, oak, pine, maple, and even laminate. For most any wood décor, there is a wooden bird cage to match. And, if you can’t find an existing bird cage, one can be made to match.

For all their beauty, though, there are some things to consider before buying a wooden bird cage. For example, wooden bird cages are difficult to clean. They can be very challenging to disinfectant and sanitize, as germs and bacteria can get into the grains.

If you own a parrot, it is definitely best to avoid wooden bird cages. Parrots enjoy chewing the wood.

Wooden bird cages are available online in a variety of sizes. They can also be custom ordered to your exact specifications. Though used wooden bird cages are available, they should be avoided. These cages could pose a significant health risk to your bird and your family.

Choose an Acrylic Bird Cage

Congratulations. You’ve decided to buy a bird, and you even know what kind. You’ve gone so far as to pick out a name for your new feathered friend. The hard part is over, right? Wrong. You still have to find a cage for little Polly. You will be amazed by the number of bird cages to choose from. Bird cages are available in many different sizes, styles, and price ranges. They come in a variety of materials, such as wood, iron, metal, and stainless steel.

One option for materials is acrylic. Acrylic bird cages are relatively inexpensive and readily available. Though acrylic bird cages are popular, some customers report that they are not as durable as metal or stainless steel. Others say that birds are unable to climb on acrylic bird cages. This could keep your bird from getting an adequate amount of exercise.

Acrylic bird cages can be mass produced or custom made. They can be found at local pet stores or large chains such as PetsMart or PetCo. They are also available at department stores, such as Wal-Mart. At times, acrylic bird cages can even be found at discount stores, such as Family Dollar or Dollar General. Another option for buying acrylic bird cages is online pet stores. They can range from about $20 for a small mass produced cage to over a thousand dollars for a large custom designed cage.

The Benefits of Large Birdcages

We’ve all heard the phrase, “Free as a bird.” In the wild, birds are free, flying from tree to tree in effortless abandon. At home, we should recreate that environment to the greatest degree possible. In general, we should buy the largest cage that will safely accommodate our feathered friend.

In order to be comfortable, birds need ample space in order to be comfortable. It should be able to spread its wings easily and move from perch to perch. Like all of us, birds need exercise. It stands to reason, then, that larger or more active birds need large bird cages.

A macaw, for example, needs a cage that is at least three feet long and five feet wide! Amazons, African grays, conures, and cockatoos also require large bird cages, though not as large as the macaw. Before making such a purchase, make sure that you have enough space available in your home.

Large bird cages are available in a variety of materials, such as wood, metal, iron, stainless steel, and acrylic. You can choose based on many factors, but convenience should definitely be considered. Your large bird cage will need to be cleaned regularly, and stainless steel or metal cages are usually the easiest to clean.

Large bird cages are available at most pet stores and specialty bird stores. They can also be ordered online. For a large bird cage built specifically for your space, you might consider a custom bird cage.

Decorative Bird Cages

Whether purely for looks or for a bird’s home, bird cages can be attractive decorator touches. They can be used as wall hangings, plant holders, centerpieces, and more.

Bird cages are available in many different materials, including wood, acrylic, stainless steel, metal, and iron. They are also available in some unique materials such as bamboo. Decorative bird cages are available in most any style imaginable. There are bird cages representative of most regions of the world—there are Oriental bird cages, Tuscan cages, and Arabian cages. There are also many bird cages featuring various architectural designs, such as domes and arches. Victorian cages are also quite popular. Some decorative bird cages are trimmed in gold or topped in marble. Some feature elaborate scrollwork. Others are even more whimsical, shaped like globes or hot-air balloons.

Some decorative bird cages are purely decorative; others are functional. If you intend to use a decorative cage as a home for your bird, make sure that it is truly designed for that purpose. Do not sacrifice your bird’s safety or comfort for style. For example, a tall narrow bird cage may look beautiful, but it doesn’t give your bird ample space for moving. A round, globelike cage looks exotic, but it might not give your bird a space for perching. With careful consideration of your bird’s needs, it is possible to find a bird cage that is both decorative and functional.

Decorative bird cages are available at department stores and specialty pet stores. They are also available online. Purely decorative cages are available at many retail stores and in a wide range of prices, depending on size and material.

First Aid for Parrots

Unfortunately, accidents can - and DO happen, so it's always a good idea to be prepared! While accidents usually produce obvious injuries, illnesses are often kept well hidden by birds. In nature, if you're sick you pose a threat in making your whole flock vulnerable to predators, so parrots have become adept at masking signs of illness. This is one reason that it's vital to have a "well bird" check-up annually. Needless to day, once a bird is showing obvious signs of illness, he's often very sick and needs immediate vet attention. First Aid is intended to help you get by until you can see the vet, or in treating minor injuries.

It's helpful to have a "hospital cage" for emergencies - a smaller, easily portable cage where you can isolate a sick or injured bird and easily move him to a warm, quiet, area of your home. It's advisable to have a quarantine area as well - for new birds coming into the home, as well as sick birds recovering from an infection. This area should be well separated from the rest of your birds to prevent air-borne transmission of germs, as well as those spread by direct contact.

Some of the signs of possible illness include: more time on cage floor, talking and playing less, fluffed feathers, lack of appetite, drinking more water, personality changes (such as becoming bitey or not wanting to come out of the cage), tail bobbing, puffy eyes, sleeping on both feet with head tucked, droopy wings, sneezing or coughing, "clicking" in chest, vomiting, diarrhea, soiled vent, etc. I won't go into specific diseases here, but hopefully you get the general idea - if things are "different," get to the vet! Other problems include broken blood feathers or egg binding.

How to Choose the Right Bird Cage

If the “tweet, tweet” of little beaks is in your future, bird cages are undoubtedly on your mind. Bird cages are available in every price range. They are also available in an increasingly diverse range of styles.

Bird cages are made in many different materials. Some of the most popular are wood, metal, and acrylic. Powder-coated and stainless steel cages are also available.

When choosing a bird cage, there are several main considerations. The first is, of course, price. If you are on a limited budget, you will not be able to buy a custom cage. The second consideration should be the type of bird you are buying. Different birds have different needs. Some birds, such as Amazons, cockatoos, conures, or African grays, require large cages. Others, such as canaries, parakeets, and finches, do better in smaller cages.

The next consideration is purely cosmetic. You will need to pick a cage that matches your décor. This is especially important if your bird is to be a focal point of your home. Bird cages are offered now in styles ranging from simple to elaborate, elegant to whimsical.

Keep in mind that the main purpose of the cage is to keep the bird happy and safe. To that end, there are a few additional considerations. First of all, your bird cage should have a large door. This gives you easier access to your feathered friend.

For convenience sake, look for a cage with food and water containers that can be filled from the outside. Ease of cleaning is also important. Generally, metal is easier to clean than wood or acrylic.

So are you ready for a Boxer Dog?...

An easier and more pleasant journey with your chosen Boxer starts with checking out the parent dogs for unbecoming traits like aggression, hyperactive and extreme shyness.
This is easier to do when you get your Boxer from a reputable breeder or from a pet shop that get their animals only from known breeders.
Exercise prudence if you are getting your Boxer puppy from pet stores, which often get their supply from breeders of unknown reputation.

These "puppy mills" as they are called are not known to put much emphasis on the quality and health of pups they are producing.
Reputable breeders would adhere to the accepted standards for Boxers in terms of uniformity in the breed, good health, temperament, size and color.
Reputable breeders would be able to show the pedigree and registration papers and/or pictures of the parent dogs that may reside somewhere else.
Professional breeders are also there to produce dog show champions or prospects.
Even if you are not looking to raise a show champion Boxer, known breeders can provide you with some "best buy" puppies because not all the puppies in a litter are show prospect/champion materials.
But the full litter would have had benefited from the same proven bloodlines, nutrition and medical care. So you can choose from among the good-looking brothers or sisters of potential champion for a bargain.
Your other source option is animal shelters that in the US alone receive up to 12 million homeless dogs and cats every year, and about 25% of them are purebred. Paying the adoption fee is a lot cheaper than the price you will pay to a breeder or pet store, and you will be saving a life.
The definition of good stock or purebred must include beauty, and in a Boxer good look means the coat is fawn and brindle, with the white markings or "flash" covering not more than one-third of the entire coat.
Sometimes the distribution of the "flash" alone may make the difference between a show champion and just a pet Boxer.
The all-white Boxer or "check" is prone to blindness and deafness, and the American Boxer Club members are not to register, sell or use the "whites" for breeding.
When it comes to choosing male or female Boxers, there are not much clear-cut differences in their personalities.
At times, the male is calmer, more tolerant of other dogs, willing to hold still for those hugs than the female. But at other times, the female can be so. One owner said the female Boxer is hyper and more aggressive especially toward other females, and that the aggression has increased as the female gets older.

How to Keep Your Boxer - or any Dog - Healthy...

Feed him a balanced diet.
Additional tips from owners include:
- Give an occasional yogurt treat
- Ask your vet about giving Boxers calcium tablets as they could have some problems later on in life!
- Keep him comfortable so his immune system can remain strong.
- Boxers are shorthaired and sensitive to extreme elements of the weather and thus must be kept a housedog. His shortened muzzle also makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for him.
- Give Boxers lots of exercise and regularly.
- Remember that he is a big and strong breed and requires physical outlets for his boundless energy and high play/prey drive.
- Walk them three times a day or have play sessions. Provide plenty of space for them to bounce around. You want to keep their spirit up and not break it or they won´t be the dogs you fall in love with in the first place. Healthy and happy Boxers are a joy to live with.
- Make a breeder your friend.
- Keep in touch with the breeder who sold you the Boxer. The breeder can advise you about care and health matters that are unique to the breed. Any Boxer breeder, for that matter, can be an invaluable ally to you throughout your Boxer\'s life.
- Guard your Boxer from fleas.

Things You Should Never Feed Your Dog

Sadly, there are several household items which we tend to take for granted that are potentially very hazardous to your dog's health. It is especially important to be aware of this because as you know, dogs are very much scavengers and will often eat whatever they can sink their fangs into. I would say that may own dog is more like a mobile garbage disposal. It is also very important to be aware of these items since their sense of smell is so well developed that your pooch will be able to find what you may think is well hidden.
One of these dangerous household items, it turns out, is simple chocolate. While chocolate has been reported recently to be high in human-friendly antioxidants, it appears to be potentially lethal for our pets, and particularly for our dogs. Cats are mostly unaffected since they do not care for the taste of chocolate, but dogs tend to be crazy about it. Certain breeds of dogs react indifferently to chocolate. The root of the problem is that chocolate contains various chemicals which are called methylxanthine alkaloids(sometypes have more of these chemicals than others)
Sadly, relatively miniscule amounts of these chemicals are capable of causing such serious problems as constriction of the arteries and an increased heart rate. Large amounts may cause even more dire symptoms and a pound of milk chocolate could possibly kill a sixteen pound dog. If you find that your dog has eaten chocolate then by all means take note of the it's type and try to estimate the amount eaten. Then get on the phone with a veternarian or an emergency facility. Be sure that your children know how important it is to keep chocolate out of your dog’s reach.
If you are not aware that your dog has consumed chocolate, the consequences could be severe. If consumption is not found within 4 to 6 hours without the right treatment, cardiac failure, seizures, coma and death could result, according to veternarian Dr. Jane Bicks. In addition to seemingly innocent chocolate, there are a number of other common household items that may seem safe for our dogs but that can be downright dangerous.
Some mushrooms, for example, can produce abdominal pain, liver andd kidney damage and amenia. So be aware of wild mushrooms when you are out walking your dog in wooded areas. Garlic may seem benign but can cause vomiting, liver damage, anemia and diarrhea so do not give your pet baby food since it can contain garlic.
Anti-freeze can shut down your dog's kidney and they tend to love the taste. Miscletoe can cause vomiting, abdominal pain and depression. Onions can causeliver damage, anemia and diarrhea. Onion can also sometimes be found in baby food. Cats are actually somewhat more sensitive to this one so keep out of the reach of both.
Coffee, like cocoa, is especially dangerous, and may cause heart rate increase, diarrhea, seizures, coma, death. Caffeine just does not have the same effect in dogs.
When outside be careful around apple and cherry trees. While the fruit is safe, the leaves and roots are not.
And be very careful about Moth Balls. it's primary chemical naphthalene is extremely toxic to dogs and can result in tremors and seizures. Concerning dog food, you should be looking for dyes and other chemicals, according to Dr. Jane BHA, for instance, which is one of the main synthetic antioxidant preservatives used to prevent food discoloration, has been observed to cause cancer in laboratory rats at certain doses. Small doses are as yet unclear but since dog food is eaten every day caution is advised. Many conventional dog food brands have large quantities of sodium to make them palatable, and this can be quite harmful to a dog. Other ingredients to wary of are dairy, by-products, chemical preservatives and artificial colors.

Goldfish Tips - Choosing The Right One

Tips to getting the right Goldfish

Goldfish are a temperate breed that can be found in cool streams, lakes, and ponds throughout Asia and part of Eastern Europe. However, the ones you will buy for your tank have been bred in captivity. Once you’ve decided that the Goldfish is the right one for you – you will need to find the right kind of goldfish. Take your time and find out more, rather than just rush out and buy the first goldfish you find in the first pet store you come by. Decide on how many you want to buy. If you really want just a single Goldfish, please do a re-think on the issue because it can get lonely and boring for a lone ranger in a tank! Once you’ve though it out, here are some of the things you must keep in mind:

• Choose the right pet shop. Ask people you know who are committed fish keepers for reputed goldfish dealers. These are the people who care and would have professional knowledge of breeding and nurturing goldfish. See if they give a proper fish guarantee. When you enter the shop, look around at all the tanks. Make sure that the tanks are not overcrowded with fish. See if all kinds of fish are thrown together in one tank or care is taken to separate the various species. Look out for dead floating fish. The dead fish could have spread an infection to the other fish.

• Question the Goldfish Dealer. If the dealer claims that the goldfish are imported, then find out which country they are from and when they arrived. Ask him or her is the correct quarantine procedures have been adopted before putting up the goldfish for sale. If they were bred, find out when they were bred and how the fish have been kept till now as in what kind of medications if any has been used and for how long. Find out if the dealer has used salt in the water.

• Observe how the fish swims. This is a good gauge to identify healthy fish. A fish should be active, swimming with ease and style and poking around curiously at nooks and corners. Choose a goldfish that looks active and doesn’t wobble or tilt to one side or just rest at the bottom. Tap the tank and see how the goldfish reacts. A fish that is slow in its reaction might be a sick one. Make sure that it’s not opening its mouth too much for air, as it might be an indication of problems with the gills.

• Check out the fins. Make sure that the dorsal fin is straight and stands up. The backs of the goldfish should be smooth, without unsightly bumps. Also check that all the fins are healthy, even and are not rotted away or damaged. In all, a Goldfish should have a dorsal fin (unless it is a goldfish without a dorsal fin), pectoral fins that extend out on sides, two anal fins or one right in the middle. Beware a goldfish with just one anal fin that’s placed kind of off to one side. It could mean that the other anal fin is growing inwards and that could be fatal to the goldfish.

• Inspect the looks. Make sure that you give the goldfish you are choosing a thorough look over. See that the fish has a nice symmetrical shape and make sure they don’t have large heads compared to their body. It would do good to feel the fish to check if the skin is too slimy or too dry but at least ensure that the skin is free of spots and odd bumps and that the gills are red. There should be no redness in the anal region and definitely nothing sticking out or leaking out. The outside of the mouth should be free from redness and white strings and the eyes free from white flecks.

• Bag ‘em right. Where you’re buying goldfish, you will have to put them in the ubiquitous plastic bag, but do so with care. Make sure that the dealer leaves enough space on top for the oxygen and the right amount of water. The right amount of the water is that which covers the fish. Do not allow the dealer to add any medicine or drops or anything else. Don’t make the bag too tight and avoid a big bag that might lead to too many folds in which the fish could get trapped and hurt. The bag should be tied till it is adequately taut.

Goldfish Outdoors

How do you build a goldfish pond outdoors?

The tools you will need are a shovel, pond liner and underlayment, a long enough rope, coping stones and decorations, plants, a pump (you will need a pump to run a filter, fountain, or waterfall and it will keep the water circulating and the plants healthy), a filter system and some cooperative friends or family members. Now you can get started.

Time to choose

Several options are available and you could actually build a goldfish pond in a day, depending on the size you want it to be. Begin by deciding where in the garden you would like a goldfish pond.

* It should be near your house, as that would make it more accessible to power supply sockets.

* It should not be at the end of a sloping garden because when it rains all the water along with the chemicals from the garden would run into the pond.

* It should not be under too much of shade, as a pond needs at least four hours of sunlight.

* It shouldn’t be very near trees as the falling leaves and debris would fall in and clog the pond. You would be cleaning up all the time.

Time to dig

* Decide on the shape and size of the pond. Use the rope to outline the shape you want and then begin digging. That’s why you need a couple of helping hands so that the work gets done faster!

* Do not go for a small pond for goldfish because they need space. Also try and keep different levels of depth, as in a swimming pool. Mark out the shallow areas and the deeper areas. This would give the pool a natural variety.

* Usually ponds in moderate climates should be at least 2 feet deep while in more colder climates, you would need to make sure that the pond is deep enough to allow for at least 12" to 16" of water below the freeze zone.

* Dig according to the shape you want and dig a shelf-like level around the perimeter of the pond, which is about one foot deep and one foot wide. Also make provisions for a waterfall by digging a slight slope to one end.

* Time now to position the external pond filters. If you have pond skimmers as well, then you would need to place and level these in the proper places. Also dig a ditch to the external pond pump from the skimmer and from the pump to the external pond filter or waterfall.

Time to line

* Now you have to line the pond with what is called as Pond Underlayment. This is a lining that can be cut according to the shape needed and can be taped together. This underlayment will help the pond lining to stay in place.

* You can now put the rubber pond liner into pond and spread it out.

* Make sure you smoothen the folds and position it evenly. Some folds will still be there but the water will take care of that.

Time for filters and waterfalls

* As the lining is in place, you must now get the Pond waterfalls and streams positioned. Place them to spill directly into the pond and put the pond liner against the pond filter.

* You can use a stone and secure it to the liner with mortar or expandable foam. This will hold back the water allow it to spill over the stone creating the waterfall.

Time to connect
Now you will have to do all the connections as in connect the pond liner to the skimmer and position all the pipes and tubing according to the instructions given.

Time to decorate

* You’re almost done. Use the copingstones to edge the outline the pond by arranging them around the pond folding the pond liner up behind the stone, slightly above the water level. (Use the mortar to if you feel the stones are not heavy enough to be stable). Add some shrubs around the edges too.

* You can create a cobblestone beach edging with gravel and cobbles.

* Make it look as natural as possible and keep a lot of plants to add on later, once the water is in.

Fill it up!

* Open the tap and fill it up with water till it is a few inches from the top and then make corrections if necessary to ensure that the pond is level. As the pond is filling remove wrinkles and make folds as necessary.

* Add dechlorinator to the pond to remove any chlorine or chloramines.

* Put in the gravel and plant the root plants into the gravel or with some soil still attached into the gravel. Plants should be added immediately after the pond is ready. Make sure you plant enough of Anacharis, as this plant helps to fight the algae and is like a natural filter. Put in water lilies as they help to shade the fish.

* Also add packaged bacteria to seed the pond filter and pond.

Point to note: Do not add the goldfish right after you build the tank. You must allow the pond to cycle and create the bacteria and other sustenance needed to support the fish. Introduce you goldfish into the pond after several weeks.

Health Concerns for Goldfish

Most of the diseases that threaten goldfish can be cured. But better still these diseases can be prevented. While you should be alert to symptoms of a sick goldfish, you should first of all try and prevent them from happening. Some of the common diseases that you must protect your Goldfish include:

Ichtyopthirius

Simply called as Ick, this is the most common disease that strikes down goldfish. Ick is a parasite that attaches to the goldfish body.
Causes: This happens when the undue stress is put on the goldfish due to bad water conditions, fluctuations in the temperature and an overall poor quality of maintenance. 49

Symptoms: Look for small white spots that look like salt grain on the goldfish’s skin, fins and gills.

What happens: This parasite attached to the goldfish when it is stressed out due to bad conditions and feed off the body of the fish. The conditions worsen when the Ick begins to lay its eggs and reproduces at a very fast pace.

Treatment: If your goldfish is a victim of Ick, treat him or her with an anti-parasite medication. Also you might have to raise the water temperature to make this medication more effective. Ask an expert and follow instructions.

How can you prevent it: You can prevent Ick from growing by making sure that you maintain the tank well with the weekly changes and keep the water fresh and pollution-free.

Fin Rot

Another common problem that goldfish suffer from is fin rot when it looks as if parts of the fish’s fins and tails are wasting away.

Causes: This is also a bacterial infection arising out of poor water conditions. Fin rot usually happens to a fish that is already suffering from something else like an injury caused by tank bites that bite. They are already weak and fall prey to this infection.

Symptom: Watch out for frayed, rotting, often pale pinky-white edged fins and blood streaks on the fin tissue.

What happens: The already stressed goldfish is infected by this bacterial infection and the fins begin to rot away. Sometimes fungus attacks cause the condition to worsen.

Treatment: You will need to treat your Goldfish with fin rot or anti-bacteria treatment to stop the disease from spreading. Try adding salt to the tank to make up for the salt that the fish has lost. Make sure that the water is pollution-free.

How to prevent it: You can prevent fin rot by making sure that the water quality is of high quality and see that you maintain it. Also it would be wise to isolate the fish that are biting their tank mates.

Fungus

This is yet another bacterial infection that infects the already injured and weak goldfish that are stressed out from poor quality water. However do not confuse it with the cotton-wool disease.

Causes: Fungus is caused by the Saprolegnia and Achlya bacteria that flourish in badly maintained tanks and attack the wounds of the goldfish.
Symptoms: If you see fluffy growths on the damaged wounds either on the skin or the fins of your goldfish, it’s fungus.

What happens: Fungus generally manifest in injuries and wounds left by ulcers and parasites and can be very damaging to the fish.

Treatment: You would need to use standard anti-fungal medications like the pretty effective methylene blue, which might however damage the water quality. You can also use aquarium salt at a dose of 1-3g/litre.

How to prevent it: Improve water conditions because fungus never grows in a well-maintained tank with good quality water.

Constipation

This is bound to happen to your glutton goldfish at some point or the other. Their body structure is such that they can’t take in too much food but their nature is such that they can’t stop eating!

Causes: Overeating and foods high in fat can cause a goldfish to get compacted Symptoms: Your goldfish might look a little bloated and isn’t as active.

What happens: Due to their structure and overeating goldfish are compacted and this causes a problem with their ability to eat as well as digest the food they eat.

Treatment: Try giving them boiled and softened peas, which act as a mild laxative.

How to prevent it: Make sure that your goldfish get green foods and do not give them too much protein or too much fat.

Dropsy

Dropsy is another bacterial infection that infects the fish within its body causing the scales to stick out. It is dangerous and often the fish die.
Causes: Dropsy is brought on by, again, water quality that has a very high ammonia and nitrite content.

Symptoms: Be alert for signs of body swelling and scales that seem to poke out. Sometimes even the eyes seem to bulge out.

What happens: Dropsy causes the fish to retain fluid and swell up. Swelling of the body cavity due to a build-up of fluid. Scales become raised giving a pinecone-like appearance. One or both of the eyes may be protruded.
Treatment: Dropsy is pretty fatal and hard to cure. Your best bet is a broad-spectrum anti- bacteria treatment. You could add salt to prevent salt loss.

How to prevent it: You must make sure that the water in your tank is of good quality. Test the water from time to time.

Pop Eye

As the name suggests, this disease causes the eyes of the fish to pop out. It is often a symptom of impending.

Causes: Once again it is an infection brought on by badly maintained tanks an unhealthy water conditions.

Symptoms: Your goldfish will have eyes that protrude and kind of stick out of the eye sockets.

What happens: This pop eye is a sign of fluid retention that may lead to full fledged dropsy.

Treatment: Start with an antibacterial treatment and add salt to the aquarium.

How to prevent it: Keep the water of high quality. Maintain the tank with regular weekly water changes.

Cloudy eye

This is when the eyes of your goldfish seem as an opaque lining covered them.

Caused: It is caused by poor water quality, lack of vitamins, an unhealthy diet, and eye flukes like Diplostomum, corneal damage, and bacterial infection.

Symptoms: Your goldfish will seem to have an eye that looks cloudy and opaque rather than bright and clear.

What happens: The Goldfish’s eyes might have mucus on the outer surface and the goldfish probably cannot see as well as he or she should, leading to a slowdown in the activities.

Treatment: You must immediately improve water conditions, add salt and take care that you give your goldfish some vitamin supplements.

How to prevent it: Try and ensure high quality water conditions, stick to a healthy, balanced good quality food that contains added vitamins.

Swim Bladder Disorder

More than a disease, Swim bladder disorder is a problem affecting some goldfish varieties genetically. Egg-shaped fancy goldfish seem to have this disorder more than the others. It has to do with floating and the goldfish are either sinkers or floaters.

Causes: Apart from genetic issues like physical deformities, high levels of nitrates in the water as well as not soaking the food before feeds that causes gas bring on swim bladder disorder. Bad water quality adds to the problem.

Symptoms: Your goldfish seems to be unable to either swim to the top or swim down to the bottom of the tank

What happens: Your goldfish have difficulty swimming to the surface, or to the lower levels of the tank. They also do not eat well due to gas and the bad quality water reduces their oxygen supply.

Treatment: Do improve the water conditions and give them Daphnia, which acts as a laxative. Think of an appropriate diet change and treat the fish with an anti-bacteria treatment. Fancy goldfish with physical deformities won’t improve.

How to prevent it: Ensure high quality water conditions and do take care to soak the food, whether pellets or flakes, before you give it to the goldfish. Reduce the dried food that you might give.

How To Raise A Goldfish

Did you know that your goldfish can live for over 10 years? Under the right conditions he can live even longer but most never make it past the first year! If you want your goldfish to live long and healthy lives, you’ve got to provide the proper environment.

It’s a common misconception that a goldfish can live in a tiny bowl. In order for him to survive for any length of time, you’ll need to do frequent water changes and cleanings of the bowl – that’s a lot of work and living in a bowl isn’t much fun so it’s best to keep your fish in a regular tank with a proper filtration system.

The size of your tank depends on how many goldfish you want to keep in it. A good rule of thumb is to allocate about 7 gallons of water per fish, so if you want 5 goldfish a 35 gallon tank is recommended. It’s better to keep fish in a long tank that has plenty of surface to air space as goldfish like to have a lot of oxygen in their water. A tall hexagon shaped tank won’t be the best tank for these fish.

Goldfish like their water to be a little on the cool side – between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit so in most cases a heater is not necessary. You should, however have a thermometer in the tank and take the appropriate measures if the temperature gets above 72 degrees as higher temperatures can make your fish more susceptible to disease. Bear in mind that most other tropical fish like their water on the warm side, so you will have to be careful what fish you put in the tank with your goldfish.

Provide the goldfish tank with a filtration system that is appropriate for the size of the tank. If you are keeping the fancy tailed goldfish, don’t use a system that will provide too much current as this can make it difficult for them to swim around. You’ll also want to provide periodic water changes as you should with any tank.

One of the main reasons that fish become sick is due to poor water quality. To keep your goldfish healthy, make sure you provide the filtration and water changes but also be careful about overcrowding and overfeeding. Too many fish or too much decaying food and waste will cause the water in your tank to become toxic to your fish.

Keeping goldfish can be a wonderful hobby and with minimal work, you can get a tank up and keep it running with healthy fish.

Arowana Introduction and Info

Arowana fishes has been known for many years. they are the king of tropical fish. Asian tropical fishes are very well liked and longed by all hobbyist so that the market price is stable and tend to increase over time. Why is This so? Beacuse arowanas are difficult to breed and one breeder can only produce 30 to 60 fishes and not all breeder will produce eggs. So there is thendency that demand is greater than supply. Furthermore, the natural environment that is required for breeding arowanans only exist in few Asian countries, mainly in Indonesia.

Is arowana still in their natural habitat? It is difficult to answer. If still exist, we migth not see them, because of its scarcity. Currently, arowanas can only be seen in the farm for breeding, some farms has produced up to F5 to avoid its extinction.

Arowana super red are originally from lake Sentarum, This lake flow into kapuas river located in West Borneo. There are a lot of arowana farms, small into big farms. Super red arowana is the hardest to breed outside its habitat. Golden Mahato arowana was originally from Siak river in Pekanbaru. It has gold color scales and at a glance is similar to Cross Back Golden Malaysia. These two are Indonesian arowana trademark, which are very sought after by all arowana fans in Indonesia and Worldwide.

Some Indonesian arowanas include super red, red tail golden, golden mahato, banjar red, and green arowana. Indonesian tropical climate is very suitable for arowana breeding. water is the most critical element in arowana breeding, water source is not a problem in Indonesia. Eg, there is kapuas river "The Natural Habitat Arowana" in Kalimantan and Riau, there are a few small river, so water source is widely available.

A few countries who are the main market for Indonesian arowana production : Japan, China, Thaiwan, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysian and Korea.

There is no doubt, arowana are Indonesia's pride that we have to preserve; as Indonesia is the biggest arowana produce in the world...

BiOrb - The Aquarium of the Future

There is no getting beyond it. As far as care for the humble Goldfish is concerned boy have times have changed and how have they changed.

OK Hands up those who if asked who would know what a biOrb is? Well the answer would be is that a biOrb is the future as far as a home for our domestic friend the Goldfish is concerned.

No longer content with a simple bowl made from simple glass with the odd throw away from Grannies house clearance lurking in the bottom no sirree, the Goldfish has moved on to bigger and better things and a closer in section of what exactly a biOrb does will give us a clearer understanding of why.

Firstly you have to consider the technology involved here and it has to be said that this is quite impressive. All biOrb Aquariums utilize a unique five -stage system to improve and maintain water quality and clarity. This, as keen owners of tropical fish will be only too ready to Admit is essential in the healthy welfare of our fishy friends.

The optimized water is better and stays clearer for much longer than conventional systems. The five-stage process includes biological, mechanical and chemical filtration along with water stabilization and 100% oxygenation.

One of the other interesting and revealing things about a biOrb is that they are made out of Acrylic as opposed to conventional glass. Now Acrylic is a clear plastic that looks similar to glass but has properties that make it superior to glass. All biOrbs are constructed out of acrylic and this enables the biOrb to be stronger, much lighter and have an overall superior finish compared to similar aquariums made out of glass.

One of the other benefits of acrylic over glass is that acrylic is much more shock absorbent than glass which in turn means that all acrylic aquariums are much more able to withstand the shocks and accidental bumps that occur from time to time without breaking.

But being lighter and stronger is about much more than that.

Being lighter means that biOrbs are approximately 50% lighter than conventional glass aquariums and the knock on effect is that it would be difficult if not impossible for someone to carry a 60 litre for emptying whereas the 60 litre biOrb is within the ability of a strong person to pick up, carry and empty.

Being stronger means that the acrylic biOrbs are up to 17 times as strong as conventional glass aquariums and this considerably decreases the chance of the aquarium breaking. It is a little known fact that one inch thick acrylic is actually bullet proof. The other thing and benefit to acrylic is that it can be drilled and worked with without the possibility of it shattering and becoming completely useless.

Lastly the finish on acrylic aquariums is actually superior to glass aquariums and the added benefit is that if scratched, an acrylic aquarium can be polished and restored whereas its glass counterpart, if scratched remains scratched.

There is a whole lot more to biOrb aquariums and this will be discussed at later briefings.

5 Ways to Pamper Your Parrot

We are all busy these days and I know it’s hard to meet all the demands in your life. But, it’s time for a breather. Take an some time with each of your feathered kids and give them the royal treatment. I know some of you out there have multiple birds, so it doesn’t have to be all the parrots in the same day! Get into the habit of doing at least a short version of this regularly. Your parrots will thank you!

Some birds are more 'social' than others. Two of mine I can pick up and snuggle with without fear of needing stitches. The other one I have to be really careful with. I use a stick as his main form of transport. No matter what level of 'snuggliness' your parrot prefers, you can adjust each step to your parrot’s comfort level.

I hope both you and your feathered kids have a great time. Not only is this a great time for your bird, but you get a relax a bit as well. For an added bonus, turn the phone off!

Spend some quality one-on-one time

Just hang out together. Let them help you pick up around the house. My cockatoo likes to help me fold laundry. One of my African Greys prefers to chat in English back and forth. My other African Grey likes to sit on me and get scratches while
I lay on the couch.

He runs up and down me, the couch and sometimes perches on my knee and just sits there. You could put on some rainforest or classical music and just sit quietly together for a little bit. There are no rules, the point is just to give your bird your undivided attention.

Share a meal

Fix up some nice vegetables, fruit, pasta or any other bird-safe dish that pleases your parrot’s palate. Share with your bird, heck, eat off the same plate. One bite for you, one little bite for them. Of course, remember to give them their own spoon or fork so you don’t give them your icky human germs.

Interactive Play

Hand toys like birdie bagels, barbells or marbella shapes; a piece of rope, a popsicle stick, a towel, even a wadded up piece of paper can be really run interactive bird toys.

There are hundreds of safe and fun things to play with. Lighten up and show your bird a good time. One of my African Greys loves to play catch with a wadded up piece of paper. When catch time is over, he loves to shred it up. It doesn’t have to be expensive, it just has to be fun!

New Toy

Give your parrot something new to do when hanging out in inside the cage! Remodel a little. Rearrange the toys that are in there and purchase a new one. Parrots get board! Why not buy an extra toy or two for later while you are at it. You could rotate the toys when your parrot loses interest in it. I have a birdie toy box that all my toys go into. Periodically, I pull their current toys out and put some from the box in. The others go back into the toy box for later use. If the toys are damaged quite a bit, see if you can use the parts from several toys to make a new toy. Rotating and recycling toys prevents boredom, saves you money and gives your parrot a change of scenery regularly.

Shower

What pampering session would be complete without a nice shower or bath? Depending on your parrot’s preference, let them splash around in the sink or tub. Mist your bird with a squirt bottle or for a finer water spray you could use a birdie mister like Mr. Mister. I use a Mr. Mister for all my parrots, in fact they have their own shower perch. Whatever they prefer, make it fun!

Bichon Frise Dog

The Bichon Frise Dog is reputed for his unique temperament and vivid appearance. This is not a large dog, measuring 9-12 inches tall at the shoulder and weighing 7-12 lbs. Bichons have profuse and curly hair, which, if combed properly, looks remarkably volumetric and feels exquisitely soft to the touch. The Bichon Frise shares ancestry with the Poodle, as both dogs are descendants of the Barbet (water spaniel).

Bichon Frise Dogs have white coats, sometimes with buff, cream or apricot shadings. However, the markings should not occupy more than 10% of the body. These dogs have dark brown or black skin around the eyes, which is called “halo”. They have black eye rims, nose and pads, which, combined with halos, add a little bit of expression to the dog’s overall appearance. This is one of the basic criteria for quality evaluation and it is highly indicative of the purity of a dog.

The Bichon Frise Dog is renowned for his sweet and bouncy temperament. This is one of the few breeds of dogs characterized by a tolerant attitude toward strangers and other pets. When introducing a Bichon to a home with another pet living in it, it is actually the pet’s reaction, not the dog’s, that you should be on the watch-out for. Bichons are also great playmates for children, as they thrive on rigorous exercise and games that stimulate their thinking.

Although Bichon Frise Dogs are intelligent and easy-going, they are not always cooperative in housebreaking. They are somewhat stubborn by nature, and hence they require a specific way of training. Not infrequently, it takes a specialist’s consultation for a novice Bichon owner to overcome this problem. Rough methods of training are absolutely ineffective with these dogs, as this may cause frustration and confusion to Bichon Frise Dogs.

The Bichon Frise requires thorough and regular grooming, because his soft and curly coat tangles easily. It is very important to get a Bichon accustomed to the comb from early on, so that your dog regards combing as something he cannot live his life without, like eating or drinking. Severe matting may lead to very disturbing skin problems, and sometimes necessitates close shaving. Bichons can be susceptible to patella luxation (dislocation of the kneecap), cataracts and allergies. Dogs affected by genetic diseases should not be bred. Bichon Frise Dogs have a long life span, amounting to 14-15 years.

The Griffon Dog

Breed Group: Toy

Weight: 8-10 lbs

Height: 7-8 inches

Color(s): red, belge (mixed reddish brown and black), black and tan, or black

Coat: There are two coat varieties for the Brussels Griffon. The first coat being rough-coated which consists of harsh, dense, and wiry hair. The second variety is the smooth-coated, which is the opposite being glossy, straight and short.

Overview: Sporting a sort of human like expression, this cheerful fellow is a good companion dog. The Brussels Griffon is good with other pets, including cats and smaller animals, but do best with older children. Sensitive and curious, this is a demanding dog but gives great deals of love and affection to his owner.

Character: The Brussels Griffon is a barker and definitely enjoys doing so. They make good alarm dogs. Intelligent and picky, this breed would do best with obedience classes during early stages of life to ensure a well-rounded and polite dog.

Temperament: Cheerful, friendly, and sometimes moody, this breed can be fairly picky. As with many smaller breeds, the Brussels Griffon can be difficult to housebreak but with consistency, will do just fine. Being that this is a willful and high-strung breed, a gentle but firm handler would work best with training.

Care: Shedding very little, this breed does need a lot of maintenance on the coat. Daily brushing should keep the coat shiny, clean, and prevent any matting or tangles. The beard around the mouth area should be cleaned regularly to prevent and caking.

Training: You must be consistent with this breed, as they tend to lose interest fairly quickly. Obedience classes are recommended, but not required. Make the training fun and you will be sure to keep this dog's attention.

Activity: A lively and hyperactive breed, they still do not require much activity. The Brussels Griffon gets most of his exercise in the home. This dog does enjoy short walks and will do just fine without a yard.

Spanish Water Dogs

Descriptions :
The Spanish Water Dog is rustic, well proportioned of medium weight. The head is strong and carried with elegance. The Skull is flat with only slight marked occipital crest. Axes of skull and muzzle are parallel. The nostrils well defined. The nose is of the same color or slightly darker than the darkest one of the coat. The lips are well fitting; labial corners well defined. The teeth are well-formed, white, with well developed canines. The eyes are slightly oblique position, very expressive; of a hazel to chestnut color, should harmonize with the color of the coat. The conjunctiva is not apparent. The neck is short, well muscled, without dewlap, well set into the shoulders. The body is robust and the topline straight. The withers are hardly marked and the back is straight and powerful. The croup is slightly sloping. The chest is broad and well-let down-ribs well arched; diameter of thorax ample indicating considerable respiratory capacity. The belly is slightly tucked up. The tail is set at medium height. Docking must be done at the height of the 2nd to the 4th vertebra. Certain subjects show a congenital shortened tail (brachyouria). The forequarters are strong and vertical. The shoulders are well muscled and oblique. The upper arms are sturdy and the elbows are close to the chest and parallel. The forearms are straight and sturdy. The front feet are rounded, toes tight, nails of varied colors, resistant pads. The hundquarters are perfectly vertical with not too pronounced angulations and muscles capable of transmitting to the body a very energetic impulsion and the spring necessary for easy and elegant jumping. The upper thighs are long and well muscled. The skin is supple, fine and well adhering to the body. Can be pigmented brown or black, or be without pigment according to the color of the coat. The same applies to the mucous membranes. The coat is always curly and of woolly texture. Curly when short, can form cords when long. Clipped subjects are admitted; the clipping, always complete and even, must never become and (aesthetic) grooming. The recommended maximum length of the hair for shows is 12 cm (15 cm extending the curl) and minimum is 3 cm to see the quality of the curl. The puppies always are born with curly hair. Colors include white, black and chestnut in their different shades. Bicoloured: White and black or white and brown in their different shades. Tricoloured subjects and black and tan, as well as hazelnut and tan dogs are not admitted.

Temperament :
The Spanish Water Dog is an extremely intelligent and well balanced versatile working dog with strong herding, hunting and guardian instincts. He is an exceptional companion, devoted to family, attentive and happy dog, showing strength and stamina combined with unusual agility. He is versatile and easily trained, performing his assigned tasks with competence and dignity. He is reserved with strangers but should not exhibit shyness. Although an authoritative worker, viciousness toward people or animals is intolerable. The Spanish Water Dog is a large dog in a medium body. They should be socialized at a young age with people and other small animals. Be sure you are this dogs firm, consistent, confident pack leader to prevent them from becoming protective and territorial. Although they make fine companions and pets, Spanish Water Dogs (as any other dog) should never be left unsupervised with small children. Because of their high intelligence and working drive, they must be kept mentally and physically active doing something. Some of the tasks that the Spanish Water Dogs are used for are search and rescue, bomb detection, narcotics detection, herding, water sports, competitive agility, therapy work. etc.. teams of Spanish Water Dogs as rescue dogs were sent to Turkey, Mexico and Colombia after they experienced earth-quakes.

Height:
Males 17-20 inches (44 to 50 cm.) Females 16-18 inches (40 to 46 cm.)

Weight:
Males 40-49 pounds (18-22 kg.) Females 30-40 pounds (14-18 kg.)

Health problem :
While the SWD seems to be a very healthy breed there are some issues that the SWD have, just like all other breeds. There are cases of Hip Dysplasia in the breed, so choose your breeder carefully. All breeding dogs should have their hips tested, either by OFA or PennHIP. There have been a few cases of PRA reported in Europe so it is advised that all breeders should test their breeding stock for PRA and other such genetic eye diseases with a yearly CERF exam. A responsible breeder will be able to produce the results in writing. Like other Water Dogs and related breeds, they grow hair in their ear canals and can be prone to ear infections. The ears must be kept dry and clean. . Because these dogs are (as a general rule) so active and energetic as puppies, they may seriously injure themselves from too much running and jumping when their skeletal structure is still developing.

Living condition :
The Spanish Water Dog can adapt to almost all environments or circumstances, as long as it gets enough exercise and is suitable for all climates. These hardy dogs can endure both extreme heat and cold with no problems

Exercise :
The Spanish Water Dog should get plenty of exercise, which includes a daily walk. They are energetic and lively and are in their glory when allowed to romp and play. As young puppies (from 1 month to 7 months of age), their exercise should never be over-taxed, to avoid possible bone an joint problems later on, but should still be taken on a daily walk. They become more active and sleep less as they mature and by the time they are a year old, these dogs have endless stamina and are very fast, athletic and agile.

Life expectancy :
About 10-14 years

Grooming :
First one must determine what duties the dog will undertake. Will he be used for hunting, water-sports, agility or some other form of work, or will he be a show dog. As a working dog you might want to shear the dog often as the coat will hinder his work in the bush while hunting, the hair will be broken of on the branches in the woods thus causing him to have an un-kept look, however if you shear him down he will always look clean and neat. The SWD is a rustic working dog. The coat of the SWD should never be combed or brushed. When allowed to grow, the coat may form cords. To maintain the coat, bathe only when necessary, using a mild shampoo without heavy conditioners. During the bath, the coat should never be rubbed excessively, the soap should be worked through the coat as if washing a sweater. After the dog is allowed to shake, the coat may be blotted with a towel, never rubbed vigorously. Allow the dog to air dry, or use a crate dryer, never a blow dryer. The coat will naturally mat which is what forms the cords. If the coat becomes excessively matted, the cords can be separated by pulling the mats apart with your fingers down to the skin. For show dogs, the Spanish Water Dog should never be aesthetically groomed. The cords should never be trimmed. The coat should be sheared down at least once a year (or more if you prefer a shorter coat) using a #5 blade on the entire body which leaves 1/4 inch of hair, including the head, and the ears. Once or twice a week one should look behind the ears and the area where he sits and with your fingers separate any cords that might bind together. Bathe as needed, drying takes some time. Consistent minimal work is needed to help develop the proper cording. The Spanish Water Dog does not shed it's coat and is a single coated breed. While this produces less dander, people with severe allergies should use caution. The Spanish Water Dog is a hypo-allergenic dog (meaning LESS allergies) but not a non-allergenic dog. Some people are allergic to the saliva and urine as well as the dander. If there are concerns about allergies, it is recommended that one spends time with the Spanish Water Dog to see if they are indeed allergic.

Origin :
History of the Spanish Water Dog

The Spanish Water Dog is an ancient breed. There are several theories regarding its origins, however, the exact origin is not known. One theory suggests that the Turkish merchants brought the dog to the South Iberian Peninsula along with the flocks of livestock as they moved throughout the Mediterranean. Another theory suggests North African origin. Regardless of its exact origin, there is documentation of a wooly coated Water Dog on the Iberian Peninsula in 1110 AD. It is generally accepted that these wooly coated dogs were the ancestors to the common trunk of water dogs.

The breed has been known by many different names, including, Perro de Agua, Perro Turco, Laneto, Perro de Lanas, Perro Patero, Perro Rizado, Churro, Barbeta and most recently Perro de Agua Espanol.

In Spain, the Water Dog was primarily used for herding sheep and goats. In the eighteenth century, a large company called “La Mesta” was responsible for moving livestock, including the Water Dogs, from south to north of Spain and back again searching for fertile grazing areas. This route was known as “Canada Real”. The movement of animals was known as “Trashumancia” Because of this, there were dogs working throughout Spain. When the French Napoleonic forces occupied Spain, the “Trashumancia” began to diminish. Spain’s Queen Elizabeth II’s minister Espartero, gave plots of land to farmers, including livestock and dogs to guard and herd the livestock. The French Aristocracy admired the Water Dog and brought them back to Paris. There are paintings depicting French and Spanish Royalty with Water Dogs which can be seen in “La Palacio de Granja” in Segovia.

While the Industrial Revolution affected the North of Spain and Madrid, it “forgot” the Andalucians. While shepherds in other parts of Spain replaced their herding dogs with German Shepherd Dogs and Belgian Shepherds, the Water Dog remained in the Southern part of Spain, especially Cadiz and the mountains of Malaga in Andalucia due to its ability to work in the mountains. At the same time, in the ports of Seville, Algecieras and Malaga, the Water Dog was used to tow boats to shore. Later, when this task was no longer necessary, they were used in the Northern part of the country to assist the fisherman with their nets.

The Water Dog was also used for hunting water fowl and upland game.

The fishermen in the Northern part of Spain, preferred the lighter colored dogs because they were easier to see in the water, so they primarily used white, beige and bi-colored dogs. The farmers preferred the darker colored dogs because they were easier to see in the pastures, so most of those dogs were brown or black.

The recent history of the breed began around 1980 when at a dog show in San Pedro, Malaga, a woman named Mrs. Mesdag brought a Spanish Water Dog to be shown as an Andalucian Breed. This show was organized by Santiago Montesinos Rubio and judged by RSCE judge David Salamanca Ortega. At the show, Antonio Garcia Perez, who was showing German Shepherd Dogs, saw the dog and told Mr Montesinos and Salamanca that he has seen many of these dogs in Ubrique and surrounding areas (Andalucia) and always wondered why he could never find the breed in any dog book, as they were with his family as long as anyone could remember. Santiago Montesinos, who was from Estepa (Seville) also remembered the dogs from his youth. Antonio Garcia asked Mr Salamanca and Mr. Montessinos to help him get the breed recognized, and they agreed. The first thing they did is request photographs and any records that might be available. Santiago Montessinos Rubio then formed Club de Perro de Agua and designed the logo. He came to Ubrique and surrounding areas, using his own money to take photographs and study the breed. He sent many letters to the RSCE (Central Kennel Club of Spain), but got no response.

In the summer of 1983, Antonio Garcia Perez met with the Ministry of Agriculture, bringing many photographs and Super 8 film, to discuss the Standard for the Breed. The Standard that he initially wrote and presented was for two different sizes of Spanish Water Dogs, but they would not accept this, so the Official Standard was made into one with a larger range of sizes. It was based on a dog named “Lucky” owned by Antonio Morena. It was accepted by the Ministry of Agriculture. In the fall of that same year, at the Madrid World Dog Show at Hipodromo de la Zarauela, two brown dogs were shown, one male and one female. The President of the Spanish Government, Mr. Filipe Gonzalez was in attendance at the show. He told the President of the RSCE, Mr. Valentin Alvarez that he knew the breed because he had seen them in South Andalucia where he grew up. Antonio Garcia Perez promised Mr. Gonzalez a puppy once the breed was officially recognized.

On May 19, 1985, at the Madrid International Dog Show, held at Retiro Park, 47 Spanish Water Dogs were shown to be registered for the first time. There were 42 dogs from the South of Spain and 5 from the North. Due to all the dogs not meeting the Standard, for example some were Albino or had the incorrect bite, about 40 dogs were registered. The breed was officially recognized by RSCE and put into FCI Group VIII (flushing dogs) Section 3 (water dogs). The PDAE was provisionally recognized by FCI until 1999 when it received full recognition.

On September 6, 1986, Antonio Garcia Perez presented a male puppy to Mr. Gonzalez at the Palacio de LaMoncloa. The dog was a brown dog called “Rabon”, born with a natural bob tail. A few days later, the first “Monografica” was held in Ubrique with 27 dogs and was judged by Mr. Marquez de Parales. Best in Show was a brown male named “Marquez Chocolat”. Best of Opposite was a bitch called “Mori”

The Spanish Water Dog can still be found working in the mountains of southern Andalucia herding goat and sheep as they have been for the last 1000 years. They are also used for many more modern tasks such as Search and Rescue and bomb sniffing by the Spanish Government.

Barbet - The French Water Dogs

Almost everybody on this earth has heard of such breeds as the Poodle, the Griffon and the Bichon Frise…have you ever asked yourself where all those breeds came from? Your answer is this…they all came from the Barbet or as some people know him, the French Water dog.

Now, where did the French water dog come from? Well, that is the question for which nobody has a concrete answer, but there are a lot of guesses. Some people say that the French water dog is a descendant of the original Griffon; other people say that the French Water dog or Barbet came from the corded coated dogs that were brought over from Asia when Europe was invaded; others say that the Barbet came from northern Africa, traveling across Spain and settling in France; people say that, although the French Water dog is not the origin of all water dogs he was probably close to the original type. Some good guesses but we will never really know, now will we? The French Water dog has been in Europe for centuries, there are even writings about him from the Elizabethan Era describing the Barbet and the kind of care needed for his coat. The Barbet was used as a water dog (as his name implies) he was the hunters constant companion retrieving fallen game from the land and the water; they also used him as a tracker and a pointer. This dog has been used by farmers to herd sheep and goats, but that is not all, this dog, the French Water dog was also frequently taken to sea to be the sailors’ friend and companion. Talk about a versatile dog, they practically used him for everything. The French Water dog is a medium sized dog that should be 21-25 inches at the shoulder (male) and should weigh 33-55 pounds; the female should be 19-22 inches at the shoulder and weigh 33-55 pounds. This is a breed in the gun dog group and they have a life expectancy of 12-15 years. The French Water dog has a long thick wooly coat which protects him from the elements as he is a working breed, the color of the coat is almost always a solid color including black, grey, chestnut, sand and white, it is almost unheard of for a litter to be born that is multi colored, although it has been reported once or twice it is generally accepted that the French Water dog only comes in solid colors. The French Water dog has a very thick, very dens coat and because of this, even a simple walk outside can result in his hair being matted and full of twigs; consequently, brushing out the coat of the Barbet is an every day must, to keep it twig and matte free. Remember, a clean dog is one step closer to a happy dog! The puppies have soft wavy coats, so to make sure they will have a true Barbet coat, it is advised that you fully shave the whole coat ( at 5 to 6 months) for when it comes back, it will be curlier and some say it will be thicker. When considering a puppy, always look for a good responsible breeder either in your city, the neighboring city, county or even state.

A responsible breeder will be able to offer you proof of vaccines and veterinary health checks, not only on the puppy you are considering buying but also the mom and dad of the puppy. You might be paying a couple of hundred dollars extra but the quality of the puppy that you are getting is going to be much better then if you bought him from say a puppy mill.

Puppy mills usually do not care about the breeding of their dogs, their puppies have not been vaccinated and the dogs are usually kept in horrible conditions. It’s just worth the extra money to get something that you are sure of! The French Water dog is a happy friendly dog that loves to work and he also has a high energy level which means that plenty long walks are a definite must! With an attitude that only wants to please, the Barbet is one of a kind…unique some would say.

Portuguese Water Dog

Descriptions :
The Portuguese Water Dog is a hardy, muscular, medium-sized dog. The coat varies from flat, wavy, shiny type to a thick, open curl, to a tight curl. Two coat clips are used: One clip with the face and rear shaved, and the working retriever or pet clip where the dog is scissored so the coat appears to be about an inch long all over. The single-layered, non-shedding, virtually hypo-allergenic coat comes in black, white or brown, parti-color (white with dark spots), black or brown with white markings, or even silver fox or gray. The body is slightly longer than it is tall; solid and sturdy. The topline should be straight and level. The brisket should reach the elbows, and chest should be broad. The head is large and broad on top with a pronounced stop occiput. The top of the skull should appear rounded. The heart-shaped ears hang down beside the head, but should not hang beyond the lower jaw. The eyes are dark and the teeth meet in a scissors or level bite. The tail starts out thick near the body, then tapers. The legs are very straight, strong and parallel. It has more webbing between the toes than many other breeds, which aids in swimming.

Temperament :
The Portuguese Water Dog is a water-loving, lively but sensible, and loyal dog. Affectionate and fun to be around. It is excellent with children and usually gets along with other dogs and pets without any problems. They need to get to know cats so that the company of them will also cause no problems. It has a stable, pleasant temperament. Brave, highly intelligent and trainable; keen to work and quick to learn and understand instructions. Training these dogs is not difficult if you understand the dog's character. They are very sensitive to the tone of your voice. Alternate training and play, and bear in mind that this extremely intelligent dog will take liberties if you think you can just fit a bit of training in when it suits you. Make sure you are consistent, firm and confident in the way you handle the dog. This breed may out-think its owner! Generally willing to please, this is an obedient dog. Spirited, with great stamina, yet calm. Portuguese Water Dogs have a super sense of humor and love to be in the spotlight of attention. They make good watchdogs. They have a very good sense of smell. Suitable for agility skills trials and numerous other dog sports. Portuguese Water Dog puppies are notorious chewers. Be sure to provide them with things they are allowed to chew on. Dominance, barking, and indoor activity level varies greatly with the individual owners. Make sure you are this dog's firm, consistent, confident pack leader, providing daily mental and physical exercise.

Height:
Dogs 20-22 inches (50-57 cm.) Bitches 17-20 inches (43-52 cm.)

Weight:
Dogs 42-55 pounds (19-25 kg.) Bitches 35-49 pounds (16-22 kg.)

Health problems :
Some lines are prone to hip dysplasia and PRA. Breeding stock should be tested for GM-1 Storage Disease, a fatal nerve disease that appears when a puppy is six months old.

Living Condition :
The Portuguese Water Dog will be okay in an apartment if it is sufficiently exercised. It is moderately active indoors and a small yard will be sufficient. It can live outdoors in temperate climates, but would be much happier living close to its family and spending days in the yard.

Exercise :
The Portuguese Water Dog is an active dog with great stamina. It needs daily physical and mental exercise, which includes a daily, long, brisk walk or jog. This breed loves to swim and there is nothing they would love more than if you threw a stick or ball in water for it to retrieve. It will also enjoy a vigorous romp. They make excellent jogging companions.

Life expectancy :
About 10-14 years

Grooming :
The Portuguese Water dog should be brushed and combed regularly. Primarily coat type does not determine which trim they are put in. It is a personal preference. The lion trim is the traditional trim, and it had a specific purpose. The fishermen would shave the rear and muzzle to aid in swimming and working in the water. Long hair was left to help keep vital organs warmer and protect the dog from injury on the main body neck and head. This breed is good for allergic persons as the coat sheds little to no hair and is virtually hypo-allergenic. The coat grows more slowly than that of a poodle and does not require a frequent scissoring or clipping.

Origin :
Developed from working dogs brought by invaders and settlers to the Iberian Peninsula, the Portuguese Water Dog has aided Portuguese fisherman for many centuries. He herded and caught fish, carried messages between ships, retrieved anything that fell overboard, and guarded the catch and boats when in port. The dogs were valuable enough to be considered part of the crew and were given their share of both the fish and the money earned for the catch. Retired fisherman would often rent out their dogs to bring in some extra money. Gradually technology replaced the Portuguese Water Dog. Radios sent messages and winches pulled the nets. By the 1930's the breed was almost gone. Luckily, a wealthy shipping tycoon, Vasco Bensaude, took an interest in the Portuguese Water Dog and set out to gather fine specimens and start a breeding program. United States interest in the Portuguese Water Dog began in 1958 with the importation of the first pair. The Portuguese Water Dog Club of America was formed in 1972 and the breed was accepted for AKC registration in the early 1980's. In the United States, the highly intelligent Portuguese Water Dog is primarily a companion dog, but also excels at water trials, obedience, agility, and as a therapy dog and assistance dog.