It's summer time and with it comes celebration. We always enjoy a good barbeque, and so can our canine friend. Visitors come over for the celebration and everyone enjoys a good meal. There are some dangers that you need to help your pup avoid though.
Always make sure the gates are closed.
Your yard needs to be secured so that your pup doesn't escape into the wilderness of the world. Make sure that all the gates are closed, and your pup is safe. As you begin to cook, keep in mind that matches and other items should be kept away from your pup. Matches may seem harmless in the paws of a dog, but they contain phosphorous which is deadly to them. Once lit, the grille will be hot and boiling grease will likely drip down.
Burns are another great danger.
Keep your pup away from this. They may smell the grease and want a taste, leading to burns as the hot liquid drips down onto them. Also be sure to keep any trash out of your pup's reach. Bones and plastic utensils can hurt a dog's insides, so be sure your canine friend does not have access to your garbage.
Harmful foods
As you enjoy your meal, it will be hard to keep your pup under control. They smell that good food, and can't always help themselves to want it. Inform your visitors not to feed your pup, as greasy and spicy foods can build up in their pancreas and may lead to an inflammation. Other foods to be very weary of are onions, avocados, grapes and raisins. These are very toxic for a dog, and you may end up at the vet's office. Most of all, don't give your pup alcohol. It may seem funny, but it is very bad for them. The alcohol can hurt their respiratory system and dehydrate them. Treat your pup like your child, keep an eye on them, and don't let them get into mischief.
Other dangers with common summer items
There are some other dangers that come with a cookout. Things like bug-spray and other insect repellant should be kept out of reach. This is especially true for candles that give off repelling fumes. Fireworks are also a danger to your pup. They may get excited and pounce on them, and the noise can often hurt their sensitive ears. During the day, the summer sun can kiss your pups nose, so you might consider applying a dog formulated sunscreen to protect your pup. At night, glow-in-the-dark jewelry is fun for the kids just don't let them leave it around for your pup to chew on. The chemicals within are poisonous. Take care not to leave any other items around that your pup might happen into. With all the family and friends around, it can be tough to keep up with what gets left on the ground, or in a place where your pup can get to.
Having a great holiday is important, but be aware that your pup may find mischief. Keep an eye on them and don't leave anything dangerous where they can reach. They are clever animals, and enjoy spending time with you. By keeping your pup safe from dangers, you can ensure a safe and happy barbeque for you and your four-legged friend.
Friday, July 15, 2011
Grooming A Golden Retriever - Not A Chore But A Perfect Opportunity To Bond With Your Dog
Golden Retrievers are a naturally beautiful breed of dogs, but that doesn't mean they don't need to be groomed. You have two choices for grooming a Golden Retriever: either go to a professional groomer or do it yourself. You might be a bit reluctant about doing the grooming yourself if this is the first dog you've ever owned. Most things you do for the first time, no matter what they are, can be a bit tricky. After doing something once, however, the task usually gets easier. Golden Retriever grooming works the same way.
You could always take your Golden to a professional groomer, but you'd be missing out on a great opportunity to bond with your pet. So, give grooming your dog yourself a try if you can. After you've done it a few times, you'll both enjoy your future grooming sessions because you'll be spending quality time together. And, it certainly beats watching all the negative news on TV!
Use a soft, gentle voice to talk to your dog while you're grooming, because it can calm and relax him. He'll come to look forward to your future grooming sessions together.
Brushing
Brush your Golden Retriever at least once or twice a week. He should be brushed at least that often because Golden Retrievers shed, and a weekly brushing can help keep his hair off your clothes. More importantly, you'll also want to brush him regularly in order to keep his beautiful golden coat gleaming and free of tangles and mats. However, the most important reason to brush him weekly is because it will help keep his skin and coat healthy by stimulating blood circulation.
Bathing
Golden Retrievers love water and they certainly love to swim. In fact, many of these dogs will jump into every pond or puddle they can. It might be a bit different, though, when you want to give your Golden a bath. He won't be afraid of the water itself, but he might be put off or even frightened by the bathtub, especially if it's his first bath. You can help him accept being in the tub by first putting him inside without adding any water. While he's inside the tub, give him a few treats and soothe him by praising him in a soft and gentle voice. Bring him out of the tub after a few minutes and give him plenty of treats and praise. Once he's used to the tub, add enough lukewarm water to get his feet wet. Repeat the process every day until he feels comfortable being inside the bathtub. After you're sure he's comfortable, you can start spraying his body with lukewarm water. Once again, praise and give your dog some treats. He's ready for his first bath when you're certain he's used to standing and being sprayed in the tub.
Nail Trimming
The most helpful thing you can do when you're trimming your Golden Retriever's nails is making sure he remains calm and still. It's essential to stop trimming before you reach the nail's "quick" - the black or reddish line running up the center of each nail. The quick is the living portion of the nail and if you cut into it, your dog will start bleeding and feel severe pain. Unfortunately, accidents do happen, and if you cut into the quick you can apply styptic powder or cornstarch to stop the bleeding.
Cleaning the Ears
You should also clean your Golden Retriever's ears on a regular basis. Because the ear canal stays moist, it can provide an environment where yeast and bacteria thrive. Ear mites and dirt can also get into your dog's ears, so you should check and clean them at least once every week.
These are the basic things that should be part of your grooming sessions. You can do some online research to learn even more about grooming a Golden Retriever.
You could always take your Golden to a professional groomer, but you'd be missing out on a great opportunity to bond with your pet. So, give grooming your dog yourself a try if you can. After you've done it a few times, you'll both enjoy your future grooming sessions because you'll be spending quality time together. And, it certainly beats watching all the negative news on TV!
Use a soft, gentle voice to talk to your dog while you're grooming, because it can calm and relax him. He'll come to look forward to your future grooming sessions together.
Brushing
Brush your Golden Retriever at least once or twice a week. He should be brushed at least that often because Golden Retrievers shed, and a weekly brushing can help keep his hair off your clothes. More importantly, you'll also want to brush him regularly in order to keep his beautiful golden coat gleaming and free of tangles and mats. However, the most important reason to brush him weekly is because it will help keep his skin and coat healthy by stimulating blood circulation.
Bathing
Golden Retrievers love water and they certainly love to swim. In fact, many of these dogs will jump into every pond or puddle they can. It might be a bit different, though, when you want to give your Golden a bath. He won't be afraid of the water itself, but he might be put off or even frightened by the bathtub, especially if it's his first bath. You can help him accept being in the tub by first putting him inside without adding any water. While he's inside the tub, give him a few treats and soothe him by praising him in a soft and gentle voice. Bring him out of the tub after a few minutes and give him plenty of treats and praise. Once he's used to the tub, add enough lukewarm water to get his feet wet. Repeat the process every day until he feels comfortable being inside the bathtub. After you're sure he's comfortable, you can start spraying his body with lukewarm water. Once again, praise and give your dog some treats. He's ready for his first bath when you're certain he's used to standing and being sprayed in the tub.
Nail Trimming
The most helpful thing you can do when you're trimming your Golden Retriever's nails is making sure he remains calm and still. It's essential to stop trimming before you reach the nail's "quick" - the black or reddish line running up the center of each nail. The quick is the living portion of the nail and if you cut into it, your dog will start bleeding and feel severe pain. Unfortunately, accidents do happen, and if you cut into the quick you can apply styptic powder or cornstarch to stop the bleeding.
Cleaning the Ears
You should also clean your Golden Retriever's ears on a regular basis. Because the ear canal stays moist, it can provide an environment where yeast and bacteria thrive. Ear mites and dirt can also get into your dog's ears, so you should check and clean them at least once every week.
These are the basic things that should be part of your grooming sessions. You can do some online research to learn even more about grooming a Golden Retriever.
Vibrating Dog Collar - Controlling Pets Effectively
When you have a seemingly uncontrollable dog, a vibrating dog collar will truly come in handy. These collars are meant to train your dog without having to pour so much effort on it. These collars may come at a price, compared to ordinary collars, however, their prices are always worth the convenience that they bestow you.
A vibrating dog collar usually has a transmitter and receiver. The transmitter is the one that you use to send a small vibration to the dog. This vibration would then catch his attention. The receiver is found on the collar of the dog. Whenever your dog is misbehaving and you would like to correct the behavior, all you need to do is to press a few buttons and the dog would surely pay attention.
Some pet owners believe that getting a collar that has both vibration stimulation and a jolt would be the most ideal. Others however, believe that vibration is enough and that they consider the "mild jolts" as simply a means to hurt the pooch. While there may be some who really doubt on whether to use the electric stimulation or not, there are still a lot of owners who consider this method as a very effective one.
These collars come in varying stimulation levels. Depending on the manufacturer, there are collars that would have 8 levels. This allows you a good time as you choose the best level for your pooch. Some small dogs would react immediately to the lowest stimulation level, while there are dogs that would need to be stimulated at a much higher level.
Yes, the first part may require you to really extend your patience in trying to get the dog to understand and follow you. However, as soon as the dog gets the hang of it, disciplining the dog would now be very easy.
If your primary concern is your dog going out of your fence area and chase the friendly cat of your neighbor, then you could find a vibrating dog collar that creates a perimeter in your home. Once you have already trained your dog, you would be surprised that it would simply stay within your perimeter. It would just roam within your house, giving you peace of mind that it would not get itself into a vehicle accident.
So if you have a pet dog that does not listen to you, opt for a vibrating dog collar. It would create wonders when it comes to controlling the temperament of your pet.
A vibrating dog collar usually has a transmitter and receiver. The transmitter is the one that you use to send a small vibration to the dog. This vibration would then catch his attention. The receiver is found on the collar of the dog. Whenever your dog is misbehaving and you would like to correct the behavior, all you need to do is to press a few buttons and the dog would surely pay attention.
Some pet owners believe that getting a collar that has both vibration stimulation and a jolt would be the most ideal. Others however, believe that vibration is enough and that they consider the "mild jolts" as simply a means to hurt the pooch. While there may be some who really doubt on whether to use the electric stimulation or not, there are still a lot of owners who consider this method as a very effective one.
These collars come in varying stimulation levels. Depending on the manufacturer, there are collars that would have 8 levels. This allows you a good time as you choose the best level for your pooch. Some small dogs would react immediately to the lowest stimulation level, while there are dogs that would need to be stimulated at a much higher level.
Yes, the first part may require you to really extend your patience in trying to get the dog to understand and follow you. However, as soon as the dog gets the hang of it, disciplining the dog would now be very easy.
If your primary concern is your dog going out of your fence area and chase the friendly cat of your neighbor, then you could find a vibrating dog collar that creates a perimeter in your home. Once you have already trained your dog, you would be surprised that it would simply stay within your perimeter. It would just roam within your house, giving you peace of mind that it would not get itself into a vehicle accident.
So if you have a pet dog that does not listen to you, opt for a vibrating dog collar. It would create wonders when it comes to controlling the temperament of your pet.
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Stop Excessive Meowing - Reasons That Cats Meow Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6229038
Cats meow to communicate. They do it to communicate with you, your family, or other animals. Some breeds of cat tend to enjoy communicating more than other breeds. Siamese, Manx, and American Wirehair are just some of the cat breeds that meow more than the average feline.
If you spend enough time around your kitty you might notice different sounds of meows. Different meows mean different things. Some reasons for a meow include hunger, thirst, interest in something, disinterest in something, discomfort, contentment, and other things. What constitutes excessive meowing? That is up to you to decide after taking into consideration the breed, health, and stress of your animal.
A cat that is being transitioned to a new home might meow a lot at first. One that is being moved indoors from an outdoor life or from indoors to outdoors will probably make more noise than normal. This should fade as your pet adjusts to the new living arrangement. During breeding season he or she is probably searching for a mate. Consider getting your feline spayed or neutered if he or she isn't already. Make sure that your kitten is getting enough food to eat and has access to fresh water to drink. If there are people showing up or leaving regularly, the meow could be a greeting or a "goodbye." Older cats, sometimes, meow more because of health issues. Some of these issues are normal problems of aging and some require professional assistance. If you suspect this to be the case contact a qualified veterinarian.
Don't rule out that your pet cat might just be trying to get attention from someone. If this is the case continue to ignore your pets requests. If you give attention of any kind in return for meowing you are, only, going to get more meowing. This is assuming that your cat gets attention from someone at some times. If no one is paying any attention to him or her I urge you to consider finding another home for your feline. One thing to remember is to never use punishment to try to alter a pets behavior. Punishment and negative rewards will only get you more negative behavior.
Is It Possible to Tame Feral Cats?
Because of their wild nature, feral cats have very little room in the human world. The fact that they are so difficult to tame denies them the option of becoming household pets. Society has come up with alternative solutions to deal with feral cats. One of them is the creation of animal caring organizations that dedicate themselves to locating these animals, organizing their capture and confinement. Once in captivity, feral cats are neutered and spayed, and then taken back to their original habitat. Some of these pet caring institutions even go as far as providing food to these animals once they have been released in nature.
It is likely that you may have been able to catch a glimpse of a feral cat around your neighborhood. These animals can be found in just about any location you can think off. Usually, they would be around public areas like parks, alley ways, farms and similar places where they are likely to find some leftover food in the garbage. You would notice a rather shy or cautious behavior pattern, and you would have a very hard time trying to catch one.
Feral cats are usually divided into three categories, in order to ascertain the level of difficulty involved when trying to tame them. Depending on the amount of contact that a feral cat has been able to maintain with a human being, they would either be total, semi or converted feral. Little interaction with humans is the primary reason why these animals cannot be tamed. However, perhaps a trainer would take his chances with a semi feral creature, as opposed to a total feral cat.
A total feral cat, or a cat who has been on it's own for years with no human contact, is likely to have crossed the line to the point of no return. These animals have grown accustomed to living on their instinct, with little or no human contact over a long period of time. A trainer would have a better chance of domesticating a converted feral, or a creature that was once a domestic animal but was abandoned in the wild. Since these cats lived a life as a pet at some point in the past, it is not as hard to bring back this behavior. It will take a considerable amount of time and effort to tame, especially when it comes to making the cat behave with love and affection once again.
If you take it upon yourself to tame a feral cat, remember some of these animals simply cannot be tamed. Take the necessary safety precautions in order to avoid an attack, remember these animals will defend themselves instinctively. Seek professional help, perhaps a trainer or your veterinarian can give you a few tips. But all these words of cautions aside, adopting and taming a feral cat will surely offer the rewards of friendship and the bond of love between yourself and a creature you rescued from the wild.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Can I Keep a Hedgehog As a Pet?
Legal:
First off, let me stress that in most countries it is illegal to keep a wild hedgehogs as a pet, and many are considered to be endangered species. The wild variety are not tamed either, and you shouldn't attempt to pet or approach one. Many people do have hedgehogs as pets though - these are specially bred species called African Pygmy hedgehogs, are actually a genetic blend of many different smaller hedgehogs than the typical wild variety. From a young age they are handled so as to be tame.
Size:
Typical pet hedgehogs of the African Pygmy variety are around 20cm in length. When relaxed, the "quills" or spines of the hedgehogs are quite safe to touch, and will only erect if the hedgehog feels it is in danger somehow.
Choosing Your Pet:
When you go to choose your potential hedgehog, take time to carefully handle it and ensure it is tame. You may also feel a certain connection with one. Make sure the nose and eyes are clear of disease or blockage, and that it isn't overly obese or skinny.
First Steps:
When you get it home (use a cardboard box for transport with a towel at the bottom for comfort), make sure you have a cage or larger box for a few days until it is comfortable with the new environment.
After a few days to acclimatize itself, you should be able to pick it up. Don;t be discouraged if it rolls defensively into a ball at first, it may take a while longer until it is used to you personally. If you continue to hold it, it will naturally sense there is no danger and will relax before exploring your hands, and you.
Ideally you will have a cage to keep the animal in, at least a rabbit hut size. It will need a small nesting box to hide in, and a litter box that is kept away from the food and water.
Food:
Hedgehogs are known as "insectivores" which means, you guessed it - they like to eat insects. You should feed a balanced diet of various insects, pet food that is clearly marked as for hedgehogs, and small amounts of fruit. Your local pet store should be able to help you out with all these.
Primates As Pets
There are rare cases where primates work well as pets but because of how unpredictable they can be, it is important to understand what exactly one is getting into when adopting a primate as a pet.
Problems with Primates as Pets
Primates can live between 20 and 40 years and need a great amount of attention from humans. Some can even develop social behavior problems if they don't get enough attention. It is important to remember:
Monkeys need a lot of attention and don't take to new people very well
Primates can be very expensive to care for
Monkeys are illegal in many states
Babies turn in to adults quickly and can turn aggressive
Primates can pass many diseases to humans
Many cannot be efficiently toilet trained and can be messy
Some will be destructive if they get bored
Above all you should remember that primates are wild animals and can resort to natural instincts in certain instances and can act violently. Taking care of a primate is a big commitment and should be treated as such.
Ferret Nation for Ferret Abode
If your imagination took you to a nation of ferrets, as the title deceptively suggests, you are deeply mistaken. Ferret nation is a brand of cages for ferrets, obviously used to cage ferrets, when you do not want them running around the house, or to pet them in ferret rescue services.
There are a large number of requirements you would want to put forward when you plan to buy one. Primarily, you want it to be easy to maintain and keep clean, with the least effort. You would also prefer a cage which can expand its size with the arrival of more ferrets. You would want it to be adequately spacious. You would also like it if the cage is movable, so that you can shift your ferret's abode when you are required to.
Ferret nation you look for in a ferret cage is available in Ferret nation. Ferrets cages are by no means any lesser smelly realizes the needs of a ferret owner, and the tiny animal's wants as well, and hence all that or dirty than other pet cages, and Ferret nation comes with doors that open into the cage, which lets you easily clean every nook and corner of the cage. They are less cramped as opposed to most other cages.
The assemblage of the cage is effortless, too, and is recognized as one of the best features of the brand. The hemmer tone finish makes sure that the cage remains intact, even if your furry pet takes it to be a urinal. It doesn't rust, has storage place for you to store its food, toys, etc. The latching mechanism makes it impossible for your ferret to let itself out when it is in the mood for a bit of adventure, Safe, secure, and trouble-free, to sum it all up.
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
How to Properly Handle the Feeding of a Pregnant Dog
Our canine friends require a variety of essential nutrients in order to maintain a good health and live a happy life. If you are the owner of a pregnant dog, then proper nutrition and a balanced diet are even more important. You want your dog to get through the pregnancy without any complications along with some healthy and strong puppies. So how do you properly handle feeding a pregnant dog?
A pregnancy in dogs typically lasts for around 63 days or nine weeks. It isn't uncommon for the dog to experience fluctuations in its appetite; the amount of fluctuations is dependent on how far along in the pregnancy she is. During the first two weeks, she will probably experience nausea which will definitely have an impact on her appetite so be aware of that. You'll begin to notice her gaining additional weight and eating more food around the second stage of its pregnancy. Finally, she will refuse to eat altogether a day or two before giving birth. Contact your veterinarian if she doesn't to eat for more than two consecutive days.
One fact to always remember though is that a pregnant dog will know exactly the amount of food she should eat. My advice is to free feed your dog during this period. You want her to get the right amount of calories and nutrition so it is always better to be safe than sorry. Plus, if you don't feed her the correct amount of food, it can negatively affect the puppies as well as your dog.
Try to feed the mother a good quality dog food intended for adult dogs during the initial six weeks of the pregnancy. If your dog is already following a balanced diet and exercise regiment, it is perfectly ok to stick with that then. However, if you have any concerns or questions, talk to your veterinarian about other options. They can recommend a different type of diet if they feel as though your dog has needs which aren't being met by its current diet.
During the final stage of her pregnancy, your dog should begin a different diet. This is because her puppies will grow at a quicker rate inside the womb during these last few weeks. Make sure her new diet contains more calories; try little by little switching to a puppy food, which will have the needed nutrients for the growing puppies. Try to keep her on this high calorie diet until after the puppies are delivered and the lactation period is over. As always, check with your veterinarian to if you need any advice on a favorable puppy food.
Best Dogs for Children
Dogs have been domesticated for centuries together; hence many breeds are quite friendly with humans. However, parents should be careful while choosing the breed depending upon the age of the children. For example, large dog breeds like Mastiff or Great Dane are not suitable if you have infants or very small children at home. Similarly, very small breeds like Shitzu, Pekinese or Chihuahuas may find it difficult to cope up with hyperactive kids.
Some of the recommended dog breeds are as follows:
• Collies are suitable for almost all age groups. They are friendly and can be groomed easily.
• Golden retrievers are very gentle with children and are tolerant to all their naughty antics.
• Beagles are one of the most social breeds but they do not like to be disturbed when they have their food.
• Poodles are loving, loyal and trustworthy breeds as long as they are not mishandled.
• Newfoundland breed is suitable for children regardless of their age. These dogs are tolerant and protective about their owners.
• St. Bernard is advisable for older children due to its large size. However, they are gentle and extremely protective if well trained.
• Basset Hounds are gentle dogs who get along really well with children who know how to handle them well.
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Saturday, January 29, 2011
The Effectiveness of Live Rock in Reef Aquariums
Live rock is not just a decoration for reef aquariums but can be an extremely useful addition to saltwater systems. It is collected from the vicinity of a coral reef and consists mostly of aged coral rubble (branches or masses of reef-building coral skeletons) of varying sizes. It varies in quality depending on location from which it was collected. The surface of the rock is often brilliantly colored with calcareous algae, macroalgae, sponges, and even small corals. Burrowing organisms such as worms and crustaceans create a labyrinth of caves and tunnels through the rock, often giving it a very porous nature. On the exterior of the rock and in the open pores where water circulation makes oxygen available, aerobic nitrifying bacteria can be found in large numbers. These bacteria perform the nitrification that is present in virtually any biological filter. An interesting benefit to live rock is that it also harbors live anaerobic denitrifying bacteria in its deep recesses that break down nitrate molecules.
Live rock is an excellent addition to the sump of a central water system. At times I have relied solely upon it to filter the water in my aquarium. It is best, however, to rely on live rock as an enhanced source of natural filtration. The bottom of the sump can be covered with cured live rock that is void of organisms that require high light levels. Room light is usually enough to keep certain algae species alive, but a fluorescent light can improve the growth of these plants and also the nitrification of wastes. Live rock is not without disadvantages. The burrowing organisms within the rock secrete waste and when packed tightly together drastically reduce flow rates through the rock. Over time nitrogenous wastes can build up in crevices of the rock. Weekly or monthly purging of the rock will keep these wastes from becoming harmful.
Live rock should not be added directly to broodstock aquariums, as many demersal spawners will place their eggs on or within the rock. For species such as dottybacks, whose eggs must be removed for hatching, the rock makes this task extremely difficult. Gobies will find the tiniest of holes to spawn in, and removal of the fish or the spawn becomes a daunting task.
Macroalgae Filters in Saltwater Aquariums
Much debate and alarm have been raised about the destruction of wetlands, mangrove forests, seagrass beds and saltmarshes. These habitats are vital to the survival of coral reefs. Terrestrial waste products leach into ground water where they eventually reach the shoreline. As the water trickles past the roots and leaves of these plants, most of the waste products such as nitrates and phosphates are stripped from the water. This concept can be used to filter aquarium water as well.
Many plant filters have been created for use in freshwater aquariums. There is no single-best design for these filters, but the concept is simple. Plants are to grow either fully submerged in the sump (aquatic species) or propped up so their roots penetrate the water's surface and strip ammonia, nitrogen, phosphates and other toxins from the water. Freshwater tanks are easily filtered with a great variety of plants. Fitting a marine aquarium with a plant filter is more difficult, since relatively few plants can tolerate sea-water. There are a few plant candidates for such filters that may or may not be suited to every marine enthusiast. These filters require a lot of space and may not fit in a small fish room.
These natural filters should not be the sole means of filtration, but are worth the time to set up. The easiest way to benefit from plants is to place a handful of Caulerpa or Chaetomorpha in the sump over some live rock, give it some light and allow it to flourish. These aquatic macroalgaes rapidly if supplied with the right conditions. The faster the plants are allowed to grow, the more waste products they will remove from the water. Frequent pruning will ensure waste removal and facilitate new growth. More elaborate systems can be set up, but simplicity of maintenance is a key issue in selection. Algae turf scrubbers remove ammonia, nitrates and phosphates, but are not easy to acquire and can be difficult to maintain.
Caution should be taken with plant filters as pH and dissolved oxygen levels may be drastically altered by the addition of a mass of photosynthesizing plants. Drastic changes can be prevented with a timer to light plants only at night or when the aquariums are unlit.
Many plant filters have been created for use in freshwater aquariums. There is no single-best design for these filters, but the concept is simple. Plants are to grow either fully submerged in the sump (aquatic species) or propped up so their roots penetrate the water's surface and strip ammonia, nitrogen, phosphates and other toxins from the water. Freshwater tanks are easily filtered with a great variety of plants. Fitting a marine aquarium with a plant filter is more difficult, since relatively few plants can tolerate sea-water. There are a few plant candidates for such filters that may or may not be suited to every marine enthusiast. These filters require a lot of space and may not fit in a small fish room.
These natural filters should not be the sole means of filtration, but are worth the time to set up. The easiest way to benefit from plants is to place a handful of Caulerpa or Chaetomorpha in the sump over some live rock, give it some light and allow it to flourish. These aquatic macroalgaes rapidly if supplied with the right conditions. The faster the plants are allowed to grow, the more waste products they will remove from the water. Frequent pruning will ensure waste removal and facilitate new growth. More elaborate systems can be set up, but simplicity of maintenance is a key issue in selection. Algae turf scrubbers remove ammonia, nitrates and phosphates, but are not easy to acquire and can be difficult to maintain.
Caution should be taken with plant filters as pH and dissolved oxygen levels may be drastically altered by the addition of a mass of photosynthesizing plants. Drastic changes can be prevented with a timer to light plants only at night or when the aquariums are unlit.
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Top 7 Aggressive Cichlids Commonly Known
With the large number of cichlid breeds, it is just natural that there would be a few that will stand out. In the aggressive category, there are those that one would find to be more challenging to take care of. Aggressive cichlids are sometimes hard to handle especially for beginners. However, cichlids enthusiasts are also interested in them probably because of the challenge they pose.
According to cichlid forums, the aggressiveness of particular cichlid species might differ in given scenarios. But to give you an overview, here are some of the cichlid breeds that are considered to be the kings of their tanks.
1. Nandopsis beani
Nandopsis beani has consistently been included in the most aggressive cichlids lists by expert keepers. There are a lot of comments that these cichlids are really one of the toughest of them all. Most experts are also one with saying that they should not be mixed with other fish species.
2. Telmatochromis Dhonti
Other than its 6-inch size, the Telmatochromis Dhonti is also making waves when it comes to the aggressive department. This particular cichlid specie is said to have strong jaws that makes it easy for them to tear down its opponent. It's also a bad idea mixing them with other aggressive cichlids unless you want to see them squabble.
3. Neolamprologus Christyi There have been a lot of remarks regarding Neolamprologus Christyi. Everything seem to point out that this cichlid specie is not something to mess up with. Size does matter with this 7-inch bully as it can really pick on other smaller fishes. Neolamprologus Christyi can also take on the equally competitive Telmatochromis Dhonti.
4. Tilapia buttikofferi
Tilapia buttikofferi may be underrated because it takes an expert to know that they are really aggressive. Some see this cichlid breed as easier to handle because their competitiveness subside when they are placed in a large tank. However, most enthusiasts agree that it won't be a good idea to put them with other aggressive fishes since they aren't tolerant of bullying.
5. Amphilophus festae
This cichlid type is known for its nasty temper. They are believed to be milder than their relative like Nandopsis haitiensis but they aren't too friendly either. Their temper becomes more challenging to handle when they reach their mature phase.
6. Amphilophus labiatus
This cichlid specie has earned the respect of most cichlids keepers. Common comments center on it being nasty and short-tempered. These cichlids would require a lot of attention especially if you plan on mixing them with other tank-dwellers who are not as aggressive.
7. Crenicichla strigata
It might be vicious to have this cichlid type in your tank if you have other fishes around. Crenicichla strigata has the power to kill its competitor with great ease. Its natural domineering qualities would have your other fishes bidding goodbye one by one.
Fish keepers should respect that cichlids have their own personalities too. There might be general information about them but it is still best to observe their attitude closely. After all, your pets very well deserve your attention.
How to Keep Your Koi Fish Pond Clear
One of the most asked questions I get from people who own Koi ponds, is "how to you keep your Koi pond so clear"? The very first thing that I ask them is how many fish do you have in your pond and how what is the size of your pond. Keeping a pond clear is really a many step process. I have listed a few suggestions below.
First you must keep your fish waste to a minimum using the rule of thumb that one 12 inch Koi per 100 gallons of water. Most people always have more fish than their pond can handle waste. The only other way that you can alleviate this problem is to make sure your pond has a bottom drain system. This means your pump is outside of the pond. A good bottom drain system will increase the flow of water which will cycle your water more per hour.
Another important part of the pond system is your filtration. Without good filtration the waste you pick up by your pump can end up right back in your pond. I am an advocate of bigger is better, and that is also true for your pond. Next time you visit your local pond store look at the pond filters; you will see 500, 750, 1000, meaning gallons of water they can handle. Why not purchase a pond filtration system that will handle 500 gallons more than the water in your pond. However, you always want to match your pump to the filter system you buy.
Now I am going to let you in on a little secret. I use a multi-stage filtration system and in the second to last stage I use lava rock. Lava rock is great for filtering out very small particles that may get by your mesh filters, thus making your pond even clearer! But, that is not my secret; my real secret is alfalfa. If you place a tightly woven amount of alfalfa into your Koi pond, you will be amazed of how it reacts to break down waste. I even have a small ball of alfalfa in my filter box.
Using these few ideas above you should be able to maintain a wonderful environment for your Koi fish. Now you know how to keep your Koi pond clean with healthy fish that you can enjoy for many years to come. This is how I learned about pond maintenance from other people who also want to enjoy their garden pond. Feel free to explore my other resources at my website listed below.
What To Consider When Buying a 100 Gallon Aquarium
When planning to buy a 100 gallon aquarium tank, whether you are keeping one just for fun, appearance, or for commercial reasons, you need to be sure to understand how to maintain it. Appropriate maintenance of a 100 gallon aquarium will guarantee a healthy surrounding for the pet fish and live rock to live in it. Before making the decision to buy a 100 gallon aquarium, here are various points that need to be kept in mind:
When you look online, there are lots of different sorts of 100 gallon aquarium tanks to choose from. Not only do they appear in a wide range of prices, but they're not manufactured from only glass nowadays.
The Construction
The more old fashioned types of 100 gallon tanks is going to have a metal framework which helps to to keep the sheets of glass that help to make the fish tank bond together. Usually, the metal structural part for these sorts of tanks are composed of either of angle steel or chrome steel, which are glued together at the corners of the frame and the glass will then position into it. As a way to prevent water from seeping out of the aquarium fish tank, a putty aquarium tank substance is used around the 4 corners of the glass and the metal construction. Even so, if these aquariums are not set on a even spot then the shape can begin to contract and might end up in the glass shattering. Occasionally the construction of a 100 gallon aquarium tank can be manufactured from wood, and generally plywood is chosen because it is less likely to burst apart if it interacts water.
Resources Used Today
Nowadays, most 100 gallon fish tanks are being constructed from acrylic substance. Most of these tanks built from this material may cost more in a few situations depending on other suppliers, but they weigh less than glass constructed aquariums and are less likely to break.
Labels:
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Thursday, January 27, 2011
Yorkshire Terrier Puppies Health
Yorkie puppies like attracting attention because they are sociable dogs. They can get irritated when playing with children because they are afraid to be hurt. Due to the fact that Yorkie puppies are of a small size, they get injuries often. Make sure that you do not treat this small dog like a toy, do not squeeze and poke it.
So, if you decided to buy this dog, you should take care of it in a proper way. There are some important tips to be considered if you want that your puppy grows healthy. First of all, bear in mind, that a healthy puppy is a free puppy.
These small dogs have some health issues that fall into three groups. They are as the following: the first one is teeth problem, the second is problem with skin, the third one is digestive problem and the fourth is problem with their fragile bones. Make sure that your dog eats enough mineral supplements and vitamins. This is very important for them to stay healthy.
Teeth problem is a common problem of these dogs. Take into account that Yorkie puppies often have tooth decay. You can solve this problem if you pay attention to what your dog eats. Do not give it soft foods, because soft foods can cause infection diseases leading also to teeth decay. You can buy good hard foods. To avoid problems with teeth, you should brush them several times per week.
Vitamins A, D and Calcium are also vital for your Yorkie puppy. Vitamin A helps in development and strengthening of the immune system. Also, make sure that your dog consumes beta carotene. Vitamin D is useful for making teeth and bones of your puppy stronger.
And finally, Yorkshire puppies are known for having digestive problems. These dogs have a delicate digestive system. All these health problems can be avoided if you watch what food you give your puppy.
Is a Border Collie Right for Your Family?
The Border Collie is a herding dog that has only been documented since the early 1800's. Originally, only classified as a sheep dog, in 1915, the Border Collie name was set in stone and breeding began in earnest. What separates the Border from other herding breeds is their stare. They have a hypnotic stare that seems to make the sheep go where the dog wants them to go and spooks them into action. They set their stance and stare at the sheep and identify what needs to be done. When they are on the move, they are fast and agile and have a lot of stamina. These dogs are fine tuned herding machines. With a few commands the shepherd can have his flock of sheep out of the pasture and into the pen in a very short period of time.
A few notable Collie traits are that of craving attention, high intelligence, high energy and a love of taking care of its flock. As a member of the herding breeds, they can be a bit verbose and nippy as they shuffle there little sheep around. Therefore, they are not recommended for really little children. Older kids that can command attention and work with the trained commands are great. The Border is a dog that will watch over their family members. They are good at recognizing possible threats and raising an alarm.
Border Collie's have to be trained. They can wreak havoc on the household if left unchecked. They need an outlet for all of their intelligence and energy and they need to understand what is and isn't appropriate in regards to those outlets. Luckily, they are easy to train and eager to please. Once the basic commands like sit, stay, come and no have been mastered, more complex commands can be taught. Border Collie's can perform very complex tasks. They respond to hand signals as well as verbal cues and these can be combined to create some really unique tricks.
As a house dog, the Border Collie needs to be exercised daily. Having a fenced in yard makes things easier. You can throw the ball, Frisbee, or any other toy and they will get it in a flash. You can also set up an agility course in the backyard and work on training them to your and your Collie's hearts content. The Border is a dog that excels at agility training. Ducking, weaving, jumping and following a course at their masters command makes them jump for joy. Agility training not only exercises the dog, but it creates an enduring bond with your Border Collie.
Overall the Border Collie can tolerate many conditions, from hot to cold, from apartment to home to farm (so long as they get plenty of daily exercise and mental stimulation). They are relatively healthy. They do need to be brushed two or three times per week. They are a medium sized dog averaging 40 pounds. They have a life span of 10 to 14 years. So, now that you know more about the Collie, is it the right dog for you?
Tips for Buying Name Tags for Your Dog
Is it wise, for example, to have your dog's name on the tag? You might think this is good in the event your dog is found - whoever finds your pet may strike up a rapport and make it easier to hold onto your pet until you arrive. On the other hand, if somebody with a darker purpose is able to pick up on your dog's name, your pet may easily be led astray. You may not wish to believe dogs can be stolen, but it is possible. Police often advise parents not to give their children clothing with their name on it because it gives kidnappers an advantage. The same goes for your pets.
On your dog's tag, the main elements should be your last name and phone number. If there's room, you can add the word "reward" to indicate you are willing to offer one for your dog's safe return. It's never a good idea to include an address on the tag, but if you are more accessible via e-mail you can use that.
When it comes to your dog's safety if it somehow ends up loose, a dog tag with only the pertinent information needed for its return can see that you are reunited with your four-footed friend.
How to Get Rid of Dog Dandruff
Give regular baths
When giving your dog a bath, use warm water and a mild shampoo to massage thoroughly into his skin, and rinse very well. It is advisable that you give your dog a bath once a month during winter season, and twice a month during summer. Regular baths will wash away flakes before they clump up and become dandruff.
Use pet shampoo with sulfur or salicylic acid
You can also try using a pet shampoo containing sulfur or salicylic acid. This might work better than a regular mild shampoo. When giving your dog a bath, lather the shampoo thoroughly on his skin and leave for about 5 minutes, and then rinse well. Never use medicated shampoo of humans because it can cause serious harm to your dogs, as well as prevent from using shampoo that contain insecticide because it can cause dryness to the skin of your dog.
Oatmeal as natural oil or fats storage
Oatmeal has the ability to help store natural oils into the skin, causing it to have enough moisture preventing the formation of dandruff. You can use the oatmeal soap humans use to reduce dry skin and prevent flaking. It will surely help moisturize the skin of your dog.
Oil rinse
Oil rinse also helps store moisture into the skin. You can spray generous amount of oil rinse to your dog's coat, preventing to cause dry skin. This is very useful in a dry climate.
Moisturizing lotion or cream
For moisturizing purposes as well, you can use your moisturizing lotion or cream to your dog's coat to avoid dry skin and flaking.
Natural herbs
Natural herbs mixture can also be very effective on dogs. You can mix equal parts of arum triph, viola tri, comocladia and cina plus chamomillia. Apply generous amount and massage thoroughly into the skin of your dog once a day for 4 days to eliminate dandruff.
Labels:
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Wednesday, January 26, 2011
So You Think You Want a Sugar Glider?
Sugar Gliders are not a craze or a fad, they are delicate and unusual pets that need extensive care, they can be very expensive and time consuming to keep.
They need a specialist diet, you cannot pop into your local pet shop to buy what they will need.
Oh yes, they look so cute, and sweet... and fluffy..., but don't be fooled! They are ferocious predators, in the wild they will easily catch small animals, they are natural born killers!
This gives you a clue that they can and will bite, they have very small, very sharp teeth as well as very strong little feet with claws. A forum I use calls them fluffy Cobras... sounds funny doesn't it? I mean, they are so sweet, so small and cuddly looking.. well trust me on this, Snuggie owners know exactly why they have this nickname, it is a very good description.
They are fast and furious and the noise they make will make you jump out of your skin.
If you are thinking of breeding these fascinating creatures, ask yourself why, then consider if anything upsets the parents they are quite likely to kill and eat their own Joeys. If their diet is wrong, again they are likely to turn cannibalistic.
Could you cope with that?
You think you could? Fine, how about their rather delightful toilet habits? They cannot control their bowel or bladder and will mess everywhere they go... and they can get to many places you couldn't.
They are aromatic little critters, they will wee all over you and rub their scent over everything, if you scrub and clean, they will simply scent mark all the more, a vicious circle.
Sugar Gliders are not for the squeamish
I've read of stories of owners sadly finding one of their much loved pets has died, if that wasn't horrible enough, these devastated owners have found their companions have eaten the eyes from their dead mate..
Not something you'd want your child to find one morning really is it?
Still reading?
They need a large cage, the bigger the better, they need time out of that cage for the essential poop spreading they are so good at, they also need plenty of toys and things to do, they are clever little things and easily get bored, so buy safe toys and change them often to keep them occupied, yes... more expense!
make sure the cage is secure, they are fantastic escape artists!
They love live insects and during feeding you'll see just how lightning fast they can be... amazing to watch, fairly gross when they take great pleasure in throwing bits of insect back at you.
They are nocturnal and have very delicate eyes, you cannot keep them in a brightly lit room, that would be very cruel... can you live in semi-darkness?
No bright TV's or fancy lights please, that's just nasty.
So you think you can handle all that? Yeah you think you want a Glider?
No, sorry again you are wrong, you cannot have a Glider, they are social animals that live in colonies, if you try and keep one, alone... it probably will die.
They need other Gliders, without company they are highly likely to self mutilate and die very quickly never ever consider keeping a Glider on it's own, that is selfish and cruel.
So we've got this far and you're still reading... that's good, however I am no expert and would highly recommend you reading and digesting all of the information you can get hold of.
Also make sure your local Vet knows about and can help you care for your Gliders.
Ferret Hammocks - Ideal Gift for Your Pet
Need
In their natural habitats, ferrets reside in cozy, dark holes. Hammocks replicate these conditions inside the cage. They fit snugly around your pet keeping it comfortable and provide it warmth, but also ensure a good ventilation since they are open. Even while awake, your pet prefers to stick to darker places and the hammock thus becomes an ideal plaything too.
Choosing and buying
Choosing an appropriate hammock for your ferret is important. You can have a small sized one if you have just one ferret or a large one for many. Also they are available in different shapes, such as flat hammocks, boot-shaped hammocks etc. Choosing the right material for the lining of the hammock is essential to provide warmth to your pet. Fleece is a very good choice and is very much preferred nowadays.
You can buy a hammock for a pet store nearby which stocks them. This lets you personally test it. The second option that you have is to buy one over the internet. This lets you choose from a wide range of products. Also, the products are reviewed by many people and this gives you better idea of which one to pick. The third option is to make one on your own. This is a very easy task and also gives you the liberty to personalize the hammock.
Having a ferret hammock for your beloved pet is a very good idea, as it not only provides comfort to your pet when it is sleeping, but also acts as a plaything. All this, at a very economical price too.
Understanding Hamsters Cages And Supplies
The first step before buying your pet, should be to determine which one of the various hamsters cages will be large enough to facilitate a healthy amount of activity, safe enough to prevent injury from falls or entanglement and should be easy to clean, thereby accommodating a regular schedule for hygiene and maintenance.
Substrate and bedding are important considerations, and should always include certain precautions. Wood shavings are commonly recommended and used by many pet owners, however hamsters should never be exposed to certain types of wood. Pine and cedar can cause respiratory and digestive problems for your little dwarf hamster, so it's a much safer option to insist on Aspen. An even better choice is the readily available paper and fiber-based bedding products available at most pet suppliers. Cotton nesting material is another old favorite that can cause problems when tangled around the toes. A better alternative, and much cheaper option will be to shred toilet paper or facial tissue and allow your hamster to utilize the safer material.
Always choose a high quality commercial food for your hamster pet. Food pellets typically offer a nutritionally balanced diet that's generally better than the loose mixtures of seeds and other dried components. Like most other animals, hamsters will pick out what they like and leave the rest, which unfortunately may not be the most nutritious portion.
Hamsters food dishes should be of a style that is difficult to turn over, thus spilling the contents all over the cage floor. A shallow stainless steel or ceramic material is preferred, since it's sturdy enough to resist damage from chewing and is of a material that is easily cleaned. A hanging water bottle, with a stainless steel leak proof spout is the most commonly utilized option for providing water to your hamster.
Hamsters love a hideaway to sleep and just hang out when in need of privacy, but most options are inconvenient because of issues dealing with destruction (chewing) or soiled, smelly and difficulty in cleaning. The most convenient and least expensive is a small cardboard box. Sure, they'll destroy it, but it can easily be replaced and most likely at zero cost. Additionally, a hamster wheel or hamster ball is an absolute necessity. The dwarf hamsters will most likely require the exercise ball for issues of escape and safety. And, of course you'll need a variety of items to chew on, to maintain their constantly growing teeth and climb up and down on and expend their high metabolic energy output.
And, a final note if you promise not to laugh, is a "hamster potty". Yeah, not too many people are familiar with this issue, but you can pick it up at some pet stores. The trick is to place it in the spot where you notice the majority of droppings in the hamsters cage and your little furry friend will make his deposits right in the little potty. All you have to do is empty it and refill it with hay or newspaper pellet-type of kitty litter. Wow, what'll they think of next?
Feeding Squirrels The Right Way
As much as I love squirrels, the harsh reality is that squirrels are at the bottom of the food chain. The only thing lower is the occasional insect or grub worm that a squirrel will eat. Other animals depend on the squirrel to make up part of their diet. Therefore, it's vitally important that the squirrel population be as healthy as possible. This fact is becoming even more critical as more predatory animals expand their range. Here in Ohio, the coyote could only be found in our Zoos 20 years ago. Today, coyotes have a growing population in all 88 counties. This puts a tremendous strain on the rabbit and squirrels population, that is felt all the way up the food chain! Limited numbers of game animals, such as squirrels and rabbits, will limit the ability of hawks and eagles to thrive.
Good squirrel nutrition translates into good hawk and eagle nutrition. We live in a cause and effect world. If you spray toxins on the ground, rivers become polluted and fish die. People who eat only fast food often develope problems with obesity or heart disease. The same is true with feeding squirrels. If you feed them junk food, they do not stay healthy and they become an unhealthy food for other animals.
Squirrels are like little children in many ways. They will eat almost anything as long as it tastes good. Just because a squirrel like to eat something doesn't mean it's good for them. Two common items people tend to feed squirrels are field corn and peanuts. Neither of these items are natural foods for squirrels unless they happen to live by a corn field or a peanut farm. Both have very poor nutritional value for squirrels, yet both carry a very high possibility of poisoning the squirrel. When corn or peanuts get wet, they become an ideal medium for growing Aspergillus Flavus, or Aflatoxin. Aflatoxin is a carcinogenic, (cancer causing,) mycotoxin that will attack a squirrel's liver and kill them.
Squirrels are herbivores, which means that their diet should mainly consist of vegetables. To keep squirrels as healthy as possible, they should only eat high quality vegetables, seeds, nuts and small quantities of fruit. When squirrels are in the wild and away from humans, they will naturally seek out these items. The problem comes when they depend on humans for most of their daily diet. If humans feed them peanuts and corn only, it's equivalent to taking them to a fast food restaurant, with the distinct possibility of killing them. It becomes even more of a problem when one person tries to feed them right, while all their neighbors continue to feed them junk.
This problem is not insurmountable. There are now companies that specialize in Squirrel Nutrition! Some even provide you with easy and free recipes that make food and Squirrel supplements that squirrels really enjoy, yet provide the vital vegetables and nutrients that keep them tip top health. You only need to Google "Squirrel Nutrition," to find ways to start feeding your backyard friends the right way!
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Peacock Cichlid Fish Tank Setup in Just Ten Steps
Fish Tank Shopping List:
20 Gallon Aquarium
Aquarium gravel or sand
Aquarium filter
Replacement filters
Heater
Decorations (such as hardy plants, flower pots, mini caves and other structures)
Flat stones and limestone
Aquarium test kits to test water parameters and monitor the infamous aquarium nitrogen cycle
Cichlid fish food (consult with your pet store owner)
Aquarium vacuum
Net
Aquarium Glass Scrubber
5-gallon buckets
Plastic Strainer
STEP 1: Plan your set and maintenance
Setting up and maintain a successful Cichlid fish tank is not at all, with this easy to follow road map. All your effort will be very rewording. Don't get me wrong work is required to create this wonderful environment for you and your fish. It's very important task to keep your fish tank clean.
Get a calendar and mark out a plan of action for dates to clean your fish tank. This will make it easy to keep up with your tank cleaning schedule. Here is your maintenance plan; clean the glass, pump and filter once a week, or at most once every two weeks. Every month change at least 25 present of the tank water. Everyday add feed for your fish. You will also have to feed your fish at least once a day.
STEP 2: 20 gallon aquarium is best for the newbie Cichlid owner
Cichlid are aggressive, this size tank gives everyone a little room to room. It's to introduce a small group rather that a pair of fish. Here is where the decorations like plans, mini caves, stones and overturned pots can help with places for your Cichlids to hide and retrieve as they did in the wild.
STEP 3: What does location have to do with your fish tank?
Your number one goal is to keep your fish healthy and vibrant. Temperature plays a huge role in the overall health of your aquarium. It's extremely important you choose a location not exposed to any kind of heat sources especially direct sunlight. Avoid lights of any type that gives off heat of any kind sort.
Green algae will kill your fish, warm water produces algae, keeping your fish tank at the right temperature and again cleaning will minimize algae growth. Soap can also promote algae toxics, so do not use soap when cleaning.
Your 20 gallon tank will weigh about 200 pounds, so make sure the location will support the weight of the fish tank.
STEP 4: Aquarium and equipment purchase.
A couple of points to make sure you pay attention to when buying your equipment. Get details form someone at the store you buy all these items. The filter hast to handle the size tank and amount of water it will have to keep clean.
Make sure the heater will get the job done and is reliable. You should get a UPS unit with multiple outlets for all your electrical components. I recommend a UPS unit that will serve as a power source if the power goes out. Based on the type of UPS unit you get it will support your tank and equipment for up to 8 hours without power.
STEP 5: Aquarium stand and setup.
Remember no soap or any outer type of detergents. A good double wash and glass scrub before you put anything in the tank. If, you are using a stand as the platform of you aquarium, make sure to use the appropriate tools to tighten to manufacture's specs.
STEP 6: Everything gets washed!
Anything going into the tank permanently or temporally gets wash not just a mild rinsing I really mean washed. All, yes all plants live or fake, stones, gravel, pots, and parts of the filter that is exposed to the water. Again, I said everything that includes your hands. This step in short, be sure to wash everything thoroughly without soap or detergents that's it.
STEP 7: Fill the tank
After you placed your sand, stones, plants and decoration in the tank. Use tap water fill to recommend level. Some people like to use a bowl to break the flow of the water helping to keep things in place.
Let the aquarium stand for at least 24 hours. The tap water has chlorine and will dissipate overnight. Check the PH level to ensure the level are within scope.
STEP 8: Implementing equipment
Now take some time to read all instructions of the lamps, thermostat and water filter. It you never followed any instructions in your life. Follow the equipment instructions to install each device, because your Cichlid's life depends on your attention to details in the content of the equipment directions.
My two tips let the lamp and heater acclimate to the water temperature before you ever plug them in, let alone turning them on. Normal this can take about 20 to 30 minutes.
Now follow the instructions to install the tank filter. Now once everything setup.
STEP 9. Stabilization
Let stand one more 24 hour cycle. This will do two things. One ensures everything is working as advertised and guarantees the aquarium has stabilized. I know, but you have to wait just one a little longer before you add the fish.
STEP 10. Finally it time!
If, everything is in order, it's time to start introducing your fish to their new home. Add one or two fish at a time. Float the bags containing the fishes in the aquarium. This should be 5 to 10 minutes for each group. This gives the fish time to acclimate to the aquarium and gives your filtration system the time needed to take on the increased biological load that the new fish introduce.
Goldfish - One Fish With Many Different Varieties
The goldfish apparently has an identity crisis. It is a fish with a single name, but many guises, some as extreme as to suggest that they belong to another species.
The goldfish has very humble beginnings, with its first natural mutation simply being a change in its colour. It dropped its brown demeanour for a yellow finish, and endeared itself to those who had initially reared it for food.
What has emerged since from such chrysalis-like beginnings has been a string of varieties with wild permutations in colour, shape and form. Even though these varieties do not resemble each other, it is easy to be carried away into thinking these are different species. Not so. So packed with gems were first goldfishes' genetic treasure chests that hidden in such meager packaging were the many fancy varieties based on the same theme. Coming at it biologically, all of the varieties of goldfish can be successfully interbred to produce viable offspring, which will continue to amaze and confound in the sheer diversity of varieties produced.
Over the years, breeders have concentrated on producing different varieties of goldfish by changing any of the physical features. Whatever the goldfish's feature, it has probably been mutated to produce a different variety at one time or another. Eye shape and position, body colouration and scalation, body shape, fin size, shape and number have all been changed to produce a different variety of goldfish.
The different varieties of goldfish can be divided quite practically into two groups. Those that will live and thrive in a garden pond (including over wintering) and those that will not, and are best kept in an aquarium full time or brought in for the pond to overwinter inside. This latter group are referred to a fancy goldfish in the trade and will generally be displayed for sale in aquaria rather than open topped troughs and tanks.
1). Goldfish varieties safe for the pond.
There is a general rule of thumb in recognising whether a goldfish variety is suitable for a pond. If it resembles the overall typical shape of a goldfish, but shows differences in colour or even fin length, then it is likely to be hardy enough to tolerate UK winters and fast enough to compete for food in a pond.
Examples of these fish include:-
The common goldfish.
Typically a very evenly pigmented fish with short and sturdy fins and tail. Often available in a number of different colour variations where other colours such as white and black appear on top of the original golden colouration.
The Comet goldfish.
These have been bred for a long tail fin, which in larger specimens may be half the length of the whole body. Comets are rarely one colour, but will regularly display white and red patterns that are more pronounced when viewed from the top. Furthermore, the comet's colour is usually more red than gold.
Shubunkin.
Compared with the other previous goldfish varieties, the Shubunkin is extremely distinctive in its colouration, with much variation occurring between individual fish. Rather than being gold, Shubunkins are blue where the colour appears to come from beneath the scales rather than from above as in the traditional goldfish. The Shubunkin has a black and orange mottling set on the bluish 'mother of pearl' like background. I remember when I first saw Shubunkins, that I was put off because their imperfect and random patterning made them appear diseased!
2). The fancy gold fish.
These are more distant relatives of the goldfish and been selected to exhibit some extreme physical features. These fish are so in-bred that they lack the vigour of their distant relatives. They will not tolerate a British winter in a pond.
Examples of these fish include:
A. Orandas
When viewed from above, their double-tail looks like a butterfly. They can adopt a variety of colours, including calico, which resembles a Shubunkin.
B. Blackmoor
Similar in shape to an Oranda, this black fish has bulbous eyes that project from the head.
C. Lionheads
These have a development on their head similar to the mane of a male lion. They too have a twin tail, but lack a dorsal fin.
D. Bubble Eyes, Pom-Poms and Celestials
These are all fancy goldfish in the extreme. Where breeders have selected for wild variations in head and eye developments.
Labels:
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What To Do When Your Reef Tank Has A Bad Case of Cyanobacteria (Slime Algae) and Diatoms
Cyanobacteria and diatoms are brought on by the following factors:
- high phosphate (>.5) and silicate
- high nitrates (>25ppm)
- insufficient current/water movement
- high organics
- low alkalinity (<3.0>
Three products that work to treat the symptom (not the cause - see above) are as follows:
- Chemiclean, which will eradicate the cyanobacteria (reef safe - we've used it in our service business for years)
- Granular Ferric Oxide (removes phosphate and silicates) - we prefer Rowaphos, but there are other brands that work as well too. This is great for removing phosphate, although a bit expensive. Remember to focus on lessening the source of input of phosphate into your system (i.e. tapwater and foods). For tapwater we filter with RODI (target is zero TDS). As for the foods, we strongly recomment rinsing your frozen foods prior to feeding. You'd be amazed at the amount of gook (scientific term) that would otherwise go into your tank/system.
- Doxicyclene hyclate - it has been years since I've used this for treating RTN (rapid tissue necrosis) in corals, but we also noticed that it was great for temporarily eradicating cyanobacteria. I say temporary, because this is just treating the symptom and not the cause. As long as the original cause (see above) is still there, the cyano will likely return.
If your type of saltwater tank is a fish-only with live rock (FOWLR), you are always going to have significantly higher phosphates, nitrates, silicates and organics to deal with than you would in a reef tank - even if you had the same number of fish in a reef tank. This is because in FOWLR tanks, there are no (or very few) corals, sponges, coraline algae, clams, filter feeders, etc. to help remove nutrients from the water.
So with a FOWLR tank, you will need to be more aggressive with use of carbon, GFO (granular ferric oxide - removes phosphate) and with the removal of detritus. I strongly recommend "storming the tank" at least twice a month (during normal/ideal conditions), but I would recommend doing it once a month in your current situation.
What I mean by "Storming the tank", is putting a powerhead on a stick/pipe and blast the rock to liberate detritus that has collected in the live rock. And then having some type of mechanical filtration in use to remove the detritus now that it is suspended in the water column.
To do this you can use a canister filter, D.E. filter (diatomacious earth), or even a small powerfilter (hang-on-the-side). Or if you don't have any of these items, you can storm the tank with the powerhead and then siphon it off the surfact of the rock/sand as you do a large water change. With this method I recommend blasting with the powerhead twice during the water change, allowing it to settle out for siphoning between blasting.
So if you end up with an outbreak of cyanobacteria or diatoms in your reef tank or fish-only tank (FOWLR), consider yourself fortunate that it is just cyanobacteria and dyatoms, which are relatively easy to get rid of, and not something more difficult like bryopsis or hair algae. And remember, you are better off preventing than reacting.
The River Murray Rainbow Fish
The River Murray Rainbow Fish, Melanotaenia fluviatilis,is one of the many types of Australian Rainbow fish. This group mainly a tropical and subtropical group of fishes, but this Fish's range extends into warm temperate areas and it is able to take quite low water temperatures.
Origin
The River Murray Rainbow Fish is endemic to Australia. As its name suggests it is found in the River Murray. It is also found in many but not all of the Murray's tributaries and several other river systems and lakes.
Size
They can reach 10 cm (4 inches long), but most are smaller than this. The males tend to be bigger than the females.
Temperature
Most of the articles on the internet about this Fish suggest that a temperature of between 22 and 26 degrees C is ideal for this species. My experience suggests otherwise. Although this is a very versatile fish which will certainly live healthily in an aquarium, being treated as if it were a tropical fish, the specimens with the best colour tend to be pond fish, subject to the natural rise and fall of temperature with the different seasons as well as the different weather.
Water Conditions
This fish is able to take a wide range of conditions. Most of the places it occurs naturally have a high pH and the water is quite hard. In an aquarium I suggest that the pH should be between 6.8 and 8. Excessively soft water is not ideal, but most tap waters will be of a suitable hardness. As with all fish, the Chlorine or Chloramine needs to be removed before it comes into contact with the fish.
Food
This is an omnivorous fish. Like many of its relatives it eats more plant material than most tropical fish. They will live on either Tropical or Goldfish food, but this should be supplemented with vegetable matter. Duckweed (Lemna species) is eaten very readily by this Fish. They also like many types of vegetable. I cook the harder vegetables enough to soften them. Zucchini are eaten as are cucumber, green peas and other vegetables. Like many fish they also relish insect larvae like mosquito larvae, small crustaceans like daphnia, and small worms. Our River Murray Rainbow Fish get frozen blood worms once a week as well as frozen brine shrimp once a week on a different day.
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River Murray
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Environmental Enrichment For Your Rat Or Mouse
There are a number of fun and easy ways you can provide toys and enrich the environment of your pet rat or mouse:
Toys to CHEW - These are necessary for dental health, as rodents teeth grow continuously throughout their life and need to be constantly worn down. Safe chew toys for rats and mice include rawhide chews, nylabones, untreated wood, cardboard rolls, boxes and egg cartons.
Toys to SHRED - Softer items such as toilet paper or tissues, sisal rope and straw provide hours of entertainment for your pet rat or mouse. They particularly enjoy shredding these substances to use as bedding material to line their sleeping areas. Ensure you do not give your pets any toys containing soft rubber, soft plastics, leather or string as these materials can cause an intestinal obstruction.
Toys to PUSH & CARRY - Many rats and mice love to carry or push small toys around. Sturdy, hollow plastic cat toys with bells inside or acrylic toys provide great entertainment for your pet.
CLIMBING Toys - Ladders, branches, hammocks, ropes, PVC tubes, boxes and bird perches can provide numerous climbing opportunities for your pet rat or mouse. These items can be secured to the sides or top of the cage to increase the amount of play area in your pet's cage.
FORAGING Toys - Rats and mice in the wild spend much of their day foraging for food. In captivity, we often put out a bowl of food for our pet rat or mouse and that bowl is simply placed in the same area, with the same food in it every day. Our pets quickly become lazy, bored and overweight from the lack of enrichment and foraging opportunities in their lives. Provide your pet rat or mouse with mental stimulation by hiding their food in specially designed foraging toys, treat balls, cardboard rolls or tubes. Bird foraging toys made from bamboo or cholla cactus can also be used for rodents.
TUNNELS - Rats and mice in the wild use and construct tunnels from items in their environment on a regular basis. Tunnels made of sturdy plastic, acrylic or PVC can be placed in the cage or attached to the side or top of your pet's house. Ensure you select a tunnel with a large enough diameter to prevent your rat or mouse from becoming stuck in the tunnel. Blocks of untreated wood can also be hollowed out to make tunnels which rats and mice may enlarge themselves. You can provide ready-made tunnels for your pet, or allow them to construct their own from various materials provided in their environment.
EXERCISE WHEELS & BALLS - Activity wheels provide an excellent way for your rat or mouse to exercise within the confines of their cage. Solid wheels made from plastic or acrylic are safer and preferable over wheels with wire bars that can trap your pet's feet or tail.
Exercise balls are also a great fitness tool for your rat or mouse outside of the cage. Always monitor your pet while they are playing in an exercise ball to ensure they do not overheat and are always playing in a safe, flat area.
If you have a pet rat or mouse, use your imagination and enrich their life by providing them with a range of toys that will keep them entertained for hours.
Ferret Colors - The Two Main Types
Usually pets like dogs and cats are classified based on their appearances and origins. This is possible because of the large variations in the different varieties. Ferrets, however, do not show many differences in their physical characteristics. They are therefore classified depending on the ferret color and pattern of coloration. The fur of ferrets is made up of "undercoat", which is the original coat, and the "guardhair," which is the long hair. Ferrets are present in many different colors. The coloration considered is that of the guardhair. However, they can all be primarily categorized into albino and sable. The white colored variant is the albino ferret whereas all the remaining colored ones are variants of sable.
Albino ferrets
Albino ferrets are so called because they lack pigments responsible for coloration. That is why they are white in color. The whiteness can vary from a pure white to a yellowish white. They usually have red eyes and pink noses. There are also some varieties with black eyes. These are called Dark eyed white (DEW) ferrets. Albinos have a very endearing appearance and are very popular among ferret-owners.
Sable ferrets
The color sable is a type of a rich brown. It is so dark that it appears black at times. Sable ferrets have brown to black colored guardhair. They have an undercoat that is cream colored and dark brown or black eyes. They also have a mask pattern across their faces. Depending on the intensity of the color, guardhair might appear chocolate, cinnamon or champagne. These are quite common and have lead to some people classifying these as different groups.
The patterning of color on the ferret is also very important and contributes to the identity of your pet. One thing to keep in mind is that ferrets tend to change their color over the natural course of their lives. Silver ferrets tend to turn into DEW ferrets. Similarly, some ferrets may gain and some may lose their color. Therefore, you must not base your choice totally on the ferret color. You must pay more attention to their personality as this is more important.
Ferret Forum - Everything You Need To Know
Sometimes, everyone needs some help with their pets from people who have had same experiences with theirs. The other times they simply want to share their pets' stories and have fun. This is exactly what a Ferret forum is made for. It is a community of people who own a ferret, adore the animal or want to know more about it. Where else can you find accurate information about the little exotic pet?
About ferrets
Ferrets are small creatures, active and very smart but also mischievous. They are quick learners - use a few commands and they will start responding in a few days. If you haven't seen this animal before, imagine an animal between cats and dogs, only smaller. Ferrets are great pets and a lot of fun. You can learn a lot about this domestic animal if you search a Ferret forum - true stories, about their health and nutrition and also some tricks that you can teach them.
Teaching them tricks
Ferrets don't do tricks to please the owner - they do it to get something from them. Therefore, it's a good idea to bribe them when teaching them a new trick. The first thing you can teach your Ferret is responding to its name. Just like dogs, Ferrets also follow commands; they can easily start to recognize their name. Call them repeatedly by their names and when they look at you, reward them to appreciate the effort. Soon, they will leave everything and come running whenever you call them because they know you will treat them with something.
Roll over is an easy maneuver. Make your Ferret lie on its belly and give it a treat. Say "roll over" and roll it over to its back and give another treat. Keep repeating the exercise, giving it scratches and treats and before you know, it will roll over on its own expecting a treat.
The forums also carry information on how to discipline the Ferrets and train them to behave. They are playful and sometimes they could be a bit of trouble. The suggested method is to spray them with water when they're misbehaving but some Ferrets actually enjoy it. Thumping their nose is another way. Ferrets are not afraid of danger and they find trouble somehow. Therefore, you have to watch them carefully to keep them out of harm's way.
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