Dwarf Cichlid, the Real Key to Caring For and Feeding It

The term 'Dwarf Cichlid' is actually misleading, since there really is not a strict definition of what a dwarf cichlid actually is. Rather there are a number of different fish that are commonly considered dwarfs, such as the species Apistogramma. These fish are found widely in South America and West Africa and due to being found in a rainbow of colors and having great personalities are favorites for aquarium fish.

The most important thing to keeping Dwarf Cichlids is to make sure you have the correct water!

Remember in the wild these fish live in a constant flow of clean fresh water and so it is important to change 20% of the water every 2 to 3 weeks, although many will say it is even better to change up to 50% at least once a week. The water pH should be checked to make sure it is soft acidic at best to at least neutral or slightly acidic. The best temperatures range from 74°F to 78°F, and usually they do not receive direct sunlight, since in the wild they commonly live in shady water and sunlight is filtered by the water anyway.

Dwarf Cichlids prefer live food and are often much more healthier than if fed a pure dry, such as pellets or flakes. Some of the best Cichlid food includes Black Worms, White Worms, Brine Shrimp and Micro Worms. Frozen foods are also pretty good for the fish and can be put in the tank even when frozen since the fish will nibble on it when it starts to thaw.

Black worms are probably the best frozen food whereas shrimp are not as good since once they thaw they tend to crush easily allowing nutrients to get lost in the water leaving not much else than shell. Always check frozen foods before buying them as sometimes they have have thawed during shipping and then refrozen again before being sold in stores.

Dwarf Cichlids are highly adaptable fish but it is a good practice to try and duplicate to some degree their natural habitats in the Cichlid aquarium. The more complex the environment the better, meaning there should be lots of nooks and crannies to hide.

Although a bare aquarium floor can be used it is better to use gravel or a layer of sand. Just make sure if using sand that it is not too thick since areas of anaerobic bacteria can form.

Piles of rocks, broken flower pots or coconut shells can be used to liven up the tank and the cichlids love all the places to explore and hide in.

Other good things are leaves such as Oak leaves on the tank floor since the fish use these leaves to hide in and for breeding. Just make sure that when using leaves that they have dried naturally and that the trees themselves have not been sprayed with chemicals.

There are many aquarium plants that you can use and these are vital for happy healthy fish.

Rooted, floating and loose plants can all be used. The main thing is to make sure that the plants do well themselves in the water climate that the fish use. Some good plants to look at would be Water Sprites, Java Moss, Java Fern and Pygmy Chain Sword. Trial and error is often the best approach to caring for the plants you are placing in the tanks.

Baby Dwarf Cichlids are able to eat micro worms or newly hatched brine shrimp after about 10 days but a notable exception is the Blue Ram as they are very small and should be fed smaller foods such as Vinegar eels. If the aquarium has a good amount of plants then this should give the babies food as well from micro-organisms on the plants.

Betta Nests - Mouth Brooder Or Bubble Nest Betta

Betta nests are created by the male of the species. There are two types of betta breeders, and those are the mouth brooding betta and the bubble nest betta. These types of breeding are very different, so different nests are built. These two types of betta nests have many similarities and differences. How do you know which type you have? Let's take a look at the beautiful betta's nest building habits.

Bettas that build air-bubble nests on the bottom side of the surface of water do so when water conditions are not rapid. In nature, if a betta gives birth in a fast moving stream or lake, they will keep the brood in their mouth, since the bubble nest would easily be destroyed by water movement. In the aquarium, however, there is generally not rapidly moving water, so the male betta will suck air into his mouth and attach a layer of saliva to this air. He then blows the bubbles out and they cling to the surface of the water. When the fry are produced, the male moves them to this nest, and will protect it aggressively, even against his partner.

Make sure that you have some surface plants for these bubbles to cling to should your male betta decide to go this route.

If the male betta feels threatened, or feels that the water is moving too rapidly, he will take the brood into his mouth, and hold them there for 7 to 10 days for the fry to develop. The bubble nest betta male may not eat during this entire time, and could begin to look sickly and thin. This is normal behavior for these fish when making betta nests. A dead giveaway that this is the case is that the male will generally back into a cave, or huddle at the surface of the water, with the female guarding him.

Regardless which of the betta nests your fish employs, a tight fitting cover or plastic wrap should be fitted over the tank to keep any cold air from reaching the surface. A warmer betta temperature is a must for healthy growth. If when the fry are young, they receive any cold air when they swim to the top of their aquarium, they can catch pneumonia and die.

These are just a few of the steps to take when breeding bettas, and an in-depth betta care manual should be kept on hands at all times to handle any eventuality.

Gold Cichlid, Basics of Taking Care of Your Little Friend

The Gold Cichlid comes from one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world, situated between 4 African countries known as Lake Tanganyika. It is also known widely as the Lemon Cichlid although it does vary in colors from bright yellow or orange to somewhat red. The change in color is put down to the environment and diet, a darker area with less light means darker or muddy colored fish.

Since Lake Tanganyika is very large and deep, the water tends to stay stable so the Gold Cichlid does not react well to large water changes and it is best to only change from 10%-20% a week. The water temperature should be around 74°F to 79°F and pH from between 7.8 to 9.0, wild caught Cichlid preferring the higher pH. Make sure the aquarium is very oxygen rich also even if you have plenty of plants in the tank and bubblers need to be used nearly 24/7.

Gold Cichlid are carnivores and therefore need food with proteins, preferably live or frozen foods although good quality pellet and flakes can be used also. If using the dry foods more often. it is still good to supplement these with brine shrimp, which can be fed to the fish either live or frozen or daphnia. A good other live food is Mysis since this helps the fish keep their vivid colors due to the proteins within the food and even crickets are well liked by the fish.

Lots of hiding places are a good idea for the Cichlid and as mentioned having good light will help the fish keep their color. This includes using a light sandy floor for the aquarium which can also help keep the pH up if the water is salty. Plants can also be used since the Gold Cichlid does not disturb them and some can provide micro-organisms for food and more hiding places.

The Gold Cichlid is a pretty good communal fish and is not very aggressive for the most part. They can get on well with other fish although it is always best to research all fish involved if they are placed in an aquarium with other species. If planning on breeding the Gold Cichlid make sure to have lots of caves around since they prefer to spawn their eggs in such shelter. Baby brine shrimp, frozen or live, are good food for baby Gold Cichlid.

Yorkshire Terriers - Traveling Nightmare Or a Rewarding Experience For Both You and Your Yorkie

More and more people are traveling these days and taking along the family pet. According to Road and Travel Magazine, 78% of pet owners are hitting the sky and rolling down the highways with their four legged companions. To avoid a traveling nightmare here are some helpful tips to consider before embarking on your road trip.

Preparation is the key to traveling with your Yorkie or any pet you may have which can lead to a rewarding experience for both you and your Yorkie. The travel industry is well prepared to accommodate pet travel arrangements. Be sure to book your travel plans well in advance and let them know you are traveling with a Yorkshire terrier.

If you are traveling by airplane advanced reservations makes a lot of sense to ensure your pets safety. There are two options for your Yorkie - one, he can travel in a small soft sided carry on that fits right under your seat on the aircraft. Of course, if your Yorkie travels alone they will be sent to the cargo area.

Since many pet owners travel with their pets today many hotels and motels have become more accommodating to their needs. When staying in your hotel room and you must leave your Yorkie alone there are two important things you must to do 1. Place the 'Do Not Disturb' sign on the door and inform both the housekeeper and the person at the front desk. 2. Bringing along your Yorkie's favorite bed and toys will keep his anxiety down while he enjoys a few familiar comforts from home.

Also it is important that you have a rabies vaccination certificate before traveling with your Yorkshire terrier. Your veterinarian can advise you on other recommendations for your travel plans. This may also include their shot record and a health certificate especially if you travel to Canada or Mexico. If your Yorkie is just recovering from any type of illness it may be a good idea to schedule a physical before you leave. Sadly, some pets become separated from their owners when traveling; this might be a good time to protect your Yorkshire terrier by implanting a microchip for that positive identification.

So do yourself a favor and avoid a traveling nightmare with your Yorkie by following the above safety tips and you can ensure a hassle-free trip with a little extra preparation and proper planning it will be just one less thing to worry about.

Training your Yorkshire Terrier can be frustrating if you don't know where to begin. Visit YorkiesAreJustAdorable to get important tips and tricks for training your Yorkie.

Rhinestone Dog Collars

These days you can get just about anything you want for your dog. People have even built homes for their dogs, and while that may sound a bit extreme, you may settle instead to simply just get your dog a rhinestone dog collar! Rhinestone dog collars are quickly becoming a classical favourite for pooches, because of their obvious attractive appeal, but also because they can be custom designed to do anything from spell out your dog's name, to having unique and fancy designs on the collar using the rhinestones. If you own special breeds of dogs, or have a pure bred breed, then rhinestone collars are perfect to make your dog look even better, and even if you do not, rhinestone collars add a touch of flare to the everyday use of your dog's collar. Here is what you need to know about rhinestone dog collars....

Safety first - While some may argue that rhinestone dog collars are simply a fashion statement for pooches, these days the collars are manufactured with safety in mind before anything else. The purpose of a collar in the first place, is to provide a place to put the identification and other specifications of your dog, so that if lost, people know whose it is; but also so that they know your dog (for instance) is rabies free, as rabies shots always come with a tag. Thus rhinestone dog collars are always made with precautions which make it difficult for your pet to slip out of the collars. Also, when purchasing, always make sure that your dogs tags can fit onto the collar effectively.

Collars that fit properly - while they look nice, you need the collar to fit properly, so when going for a collar, make sure you know your dogs size before you purchase the collar. Do not buy a collar that is too small for your dog, just because it looks good, because that will make your dog uncomfortable and can cause breathing problems and other health related issues in the long run. Also, on the other hand, you don't want the collar too be too loose, as the dog may try to chew it off, or will try and push it off from their neck. The best thing to do, is to get your dog measured first, or to measure him/her loosely using a flexible measuring tape.