The Effectiveness of Live Rock in Reef Aquariums

Live rock is not just a decoration for reef aquariums but can be an extremely useful addition to saltwater systems. It is collected from the vicinity of a coral reef and consists mostly of aged coral rubble (branches or masses of reef-building coral skeletons) of varying sizes. It varies in quality depending on location from which it was collected. The surface of the rock is often brilliantly colored with calcareous algae, macroalgae, sponges, and even small corals. Burrowing organisms such as worms and crustaceans create a labyrinth of caves and tunnels through the rock, often giving it a very porous nature. On the exterior of the rock and in the open pores where water circulation makes oxygen available, aerobic nitrifying bacteria can be found in large numbers. These bacteria perform the nitrification that is present in virtually any biological filter. An interesting benefit to live rock is that it also harbors live anaerobic denitrifying bacteria in its deep recesses that break down nitrate molecules.

Live rock is an excellent addition to the sump of a central water system. At times I have relied solely upon it to filter the water in my aquarium. It is best, however, to rely on live rock as an enhanced source of natural filtration. The bottom of the sump can be covered with cured live rock that is void of organisms that require high light levels. Room light is usually enough to keep certain algae species alive, but a fluorescent light can improve the growth of these plants and also the nitrification of wastes. Live rock is not without disadvantages. The burrowing organisms within the rock secrete waste and when packed tightly together drastically reduce flow rates through the rock. Over time nitrogenous wastes can build up in crevices of the rock. Weekly or monthly purging of the rock will keep these wastes from becoming harmful.

Live rock should not be added directly to broodstock aquariums, as many demersal spawners will place their eggs on or within the rock. For species such as dottybacks, whose eggs must be removed for hatching, the rock makes this task extremely difficult. Gobies will find the tiniest of holes to spawn in, and removal of the fish or the spawn becomes a daunting task.

Macroalgae Filters in Saltwater Aquariums

Much debate and alarm have been raised about the destruction of wetlands, mangrove forests, seagrass beds and saltmarshes. These habitats are vital to the survival of coral reefs. Terrestrial waste products leach into ground water where they eventually reach the shoreline. As the water trickles past the roots and leaves of these plants, most of the waste products such as nitrates and phosphates are stripped from the water. This concept can be used to filter aquarium water as well.

Many plant filters have been created for use in freshwater aquariums. There is no single-best design for these filters, but the concept is simple. Plants are to grow either fully submerged in the sump (aquatic species) or propped up so their roots penetrate the water's surface and strip ammonia, nitrogen, phosphates and other toxins from the water. Freshwater tanks are easily filtered with a great variety of plants. Fitting a marine aquarium with a plant filter is more difficult, since relatively few plants can tolerate sea-water. There are a few plant candidates for such filters that may or may not be suited to every marine enthusiast. These filters require a lot of space and may not fit in a small fish room.

These natural filters should not be the sole means of filtration, but are worth the time to set up. The easiest way to benefit from plants is to place a handful of Caulerpa or Chaetomorpha in the sump over some live rock, give it some light and allow it to flourish. These aquatic macroalgaes rapidly if supplied with the right conditions. The faster the plants are allowed to grow, the more waste products they will remove from the water. Frequent pruning will ensure waste removal and facilitate new growth. More elaborate systems can be set up, but simplicity of maintenance is a key issue in selection. Algae turf scrubbers remove ammonia, nitrates and phosphates, but are not easy to acquire and can be difficult to maintain.

Caution should be taken with plant filters as pH and dissolved oxygen levels may be drastically altered by the addition of a mass of photosynthesizing plants. Drastic changes can be prevented with a timer to light plants only at night or when the aquariums are unlit.

Top 7 Aggressive Cichlids Commonly Known

With the large number of cichlid breeds, it is just natural that there would be a few that will stand out. In the aggressive category, there are those that one would find to be more challenging to take care of. Aggressive cichlids are sometimes hard to handle especially for beginners. However, cichlids enthusiasts are also interested in them probably because of the challenge they pose.

According to cichlid forums, the aggressiveness of particular cichlid species might differ in given scenarios. But to give you an overview, here are some of the cichlid breeds that are considered to be the kings of their tanks.

1. Nandopsis beani
Nandopsis beani has consistently been included in the most aggressive cichlids lists by expert keepers. There are a lot of comments that these cichlids are really one of the toughest of them all. Most experts are also one with saying that they should not be mixed with other fish species.

2. Telmatochromis Dhonti
Other than its 6-inch size, the Telmatochromis Dhonti is also making waves when it comes to the aggressive department. This particular cichlid specie is said to have strong jaws that makes it easy for them to tear down its opponent. It's also a bad idea mixing them with other aggressive cichlids unless you want to see them squabble.

3. Neolamprologus Christyi There have been a lot of remarks regarding Neolamprologus Christyi. Everything seem to point out that this cichlid specie is not something to mess up with. Size does matter with this 7-inch bully as it can really pick on other smaller fishes. Neolamprologus Christyi can also take on the equally competitive Telmatochromis Dhonti.

4. Tilapia buttikofferi
Tilapia buttikofferi may be underrated because it takes an expert to know that they are really aggressive. Some see this cichlid breed as easier to handle because their competitiveness subside when they are placed in a large tank. However, most enthusiasts agree that it won't be a good idea to put them with other aggressive fishes since they aren't tolerant of bullying.

5. Amphilophus festae
This cichlid type is known for its nasty temper. They are believed to be milder than their relative like Nandopsis haitiensis but they aren't too friendly either. Their temper becomes more challenging to handle when they reach their mature phase.

6. Amphilophus labiatus
This cichlid specie has earned the respect of most cichlids keepers. Common comments center on it being nasty and short-tempered. These cichlids would require a lot of attention especially if you plan on mixing them with other tank-dwellers who are not as aggressive.

7. Crenicichla strigata
It might be vicious to have this cichlid type in your tank if you have other fishes around. Crenicichla strigata has the power to kill its competitor with great ease. Its natural domineering qualities would have your other fishes bidding goodbye one by one.

Fish keepers should respect that cichlids have their own personalities too. There might be general information about them but it is still best to observe their attitude closely. After all, your pets very well deserve your attention.

How to Keep Your Koi Fish Pond Clear

One of the most asked questions I get from people who own Koi ponds, is "how to you keep your Koi pond so clear"? The very first thing that I ask them is how many fish do you have in your pond and how what is the size of your pond. Keeping a pond clear is really a many step process. I have listed a few suggestions below.

First you must keep your fish waste to a minimum using the rule of thumb that one 12 inch Koi per 100 gallons of water. Most people always have more fish than their pond can handle waste. The only other way that you can alleviate this problem is to make sure your pond has a bottom drain system. This means your pump is outside of the pond. A good bottom drain system will increase the flow of water which will cycle your water more per hour.

Another important part of the pond system is your filtration. Without good filtration the waste you pick up by your pump can end up right back in your pond. I am an advocate of bigger is better, and that is also true for your pond. Next time you visit your local pond store look at the pond filters; you will see 500, 750, 1000, meaning gallons of water they can handle. Why not purchase a pond filtration system that will handle 500 gallons more than the water in your pond. However, you always want to match your pump to the filter system you buy.

Now I am going to let you in on a little secret. I use a multi-stage filtration system and in the second to last stage I use lava rock. Lava rock is great for filtering out very small particles that may get by your mesh filters, thus making your pond even clearer! But, that is not my secret; my real secret is alfalfa. If you place a tightly woven amount of alfalfa into your Koi pond, you will be amazed of how it reacts to break down waste. I even have a small ball of alfalfa in my filter box.

Using these few ideas above you should be able to maintain a wonderful environment for your Koi fish. Now you know how to keep your Koi pond clean with healthy fish that you can enjoy for many years to come. This is how I learned about pond maintenance from other people who also want to enjoy their garden pond. Feel free to explore my other resources at my website listed below.

What To Consider When Buying a 100 Gallon Aquarium

When planning to buy a 100 gallon aquarium tank, whether you are keeping one just for fun, appearance, or for commercial reasons, you need to be sure to understand how to maintain it. Appropriate maintenance of a 100 gallon aquarium will guarantee a healthy surrounding for the pet fish and live rock to live in it. Before making the decision to buy a 100 gallon aquarium, here are various points that need to be kept in mind:

When you look online, there are lots of different sorts of 100 gallon aquarium tanks to choose from. Not only do they appear in a wide range of prices, but they're not manufactured from only glass nowadays.

The Construction

The more old fashioned types of 100 gallon tanks is going to have a metal framework which helps to to keep the sheets of glass that help to make the fish tank bond together. Usually, the metal structural part for these sorts of tanks are composed of either of angle steel or chrome steel, which are glued together at the corners of the frame and the glass will then position into it. As a way to prevent water from seeping out of the aquarium fish tank, a putty aquarium tank substance is used around the 4 corners of the glass and the metal construction. Even so, if these aquariums are not set on a even spot then the shape can begin to contract and might end up in the glass shattering. Occasionally the construction of a 100 gallon aquarium tank can be manufactured from wood, and generally plywood is chosen because it is less likely to burst apart if it interacts water.

Resources Used Today

Nowadays, most 100 gallon fish tanks are being constructed from acrylic substance. Most of these tanks built from this material may cost more in a few situations depending on other suppliers, but they weigh less than glass constructed aquariums and are less likely to break.

Yorkshire Terrier Puppies Health

Yorkshire Terrier is a favourite dog of many people because it is an apartment dog. Some dogs do not even go out for a walk and their owners teach them to use a box. To keep your dog healthy you can play fetch games with it.

Yorkie puppies like attracting attention because they are sociable dogs. They can get irritated when playing with children because they are afraid to be hurt. Due to the fact that Yorkie puppies are of a small size, they get injuries often. Make sure that you do not treat this small dog like a toy, do not squeeze and poke it.

So, if you decided to buy this dog, you should take care of it in a proper way. There are some important tips to be considered if you want that your puppy grows healthy. First of all, bear in mind, that a healthy puppy is a free puppy.

These small dogs have some health issues that fall into three groups. They are as the following: the first one is teeth problem, the second is problem with skin, the third one is digestive problem and the fourth is problem with their fragile bones. Make sure that your dog eats enough mineral supplements and vitamins. This is very important for them to stay healthy.

Teeth problem is a common problem of these dogs. Take into account that Yorkie puppies often have tooth decay. You can solve this problem if you pay attention to what your dog eats. Do not give it soft foods, because soft foods can cause infection diseases leading also to teeth decay. You can buy good hard foods. To avoid problems with teeth, you should brush them several times per week.

Vitamins A, D and Calcium are also vital for your Yorkie puppy. Vitamin A helps in development and strengthening of the immune system. Also, make sure that your dog consumes beta carotene. Vitamin D is useful for making teeth and bones of your puppy stronger.

And finally, Yorkshire puppies are known for having digestive problems. These dogs have a delicate digestive system. All these health problems can be avoided if you watch what food you give your puppy.

Is a Border Collie Right for Your Family?

The Border Collie is a herding dog that has only been documented since the early 1800's. Originally, only classified as a sheep dog, in 1915, the Border Collie name was set in stone and breeding began in earnest. What separates the Border from other herding breeds is their stare. They have a hypnotic stare that seems to make the sheep go where the dog wants them to go and spooks them into action. They set their stance and stare at the sheep and identify what needs to be done. When they are on the move, they are fast and agile and have a lot of stamina. These dogs are fine tuned herding machines. With a few commands the shepherd can have his flock of sheep out of the pasture and into the pen in a very short period of time.

A few notable Collie traits are that of craving attention, high intelligence, high energy and a love of taking care of its flock. As a member of the herding breeds, they can be a bit verbose and nippy as they shuffle there little sheep around. Therefore, they are not recommended for really little children. Older kids that can command attention and work with the trained commands are great. The Border is a dog that will watch over their family members. They are good at recognizing possible threats and raising an alarm.

Border Collie's have to be trained. They can wreak havoc on the household if left unchecked. They need an outlet for all of their intelligence and energy and they need to understand what is and isn't appropriate in regards to those outlets. Luckily, they are easy to train and eager to please. Once the basic commands like sit, stay, come and no have been mastered, more complex commands can be taught. Border Collie's can perform very complex tasks. They respond to hand signals as well as verbal cues and these can be combined to create some really unique tricks.

As a house dog, the Border Collie needs to be exercised daily. Having a fenced in yard makes things easier. You can throw the ball, Frisbee, or any other toy and they will get it in a flash. You can also set up an agility course in the backyard and work on training them to your and your Collie's hearts content. The Border is a dog that excels at agility training. Ducking, weaving, jumping and following a course at their masters command makes them jump for joy. Agility training not only exercises the dog, but it creates an enduring bond with your Border Collie.

Overall the Border Collie can tolerate many conditions, from hot to cold, from apartment to home to farm (so long as they get plenty of daily exercise and mental stimulation). They are relatively healthy. They do need to be brushed two or three times per week. They are a medium sized dog averaging 40 pounds. They have a life span of 10 to 14 years. So, now that you know more about the Collie, is it the right dog for you?

Tips for Buying Name Tags for Your Dog

Whether you have an outside or inside dog, you want to do everything possible to ensure his comfort and safety. No doubt you've taken care of home measures, like putting toxic foods and other items out of reach, and allowing for easy entrance and exit from the home when nature calls. Your first instinct, too, is likely to have an identification tag engraved in the event your dog should get loose. It's natural to want to give an easy way for somebody to contact you in this case, but you should strongly consider what goes on that tag.

Is it wise, for example, to have your dog's name on the tag? You might think this is good in the event your dog is found - whoever finds your pet may strike up a rapport and make it easier to hold onto your pet until you arrive. On the other hand, if somebody with a darker purpose is able to pick up on your dog's name, your pet may easily be led astray. You may not wish to believe dogs can be stolen, but it is possible. Police often advise parents not to give their children clothing with their name on it because it gives kidnappers an advantage. The same goes for your pets.

On your dog's tag, the main elements should be your last name and phone number. If there's room, you can add the word "reward" to indicate you are willing to offer one for your dog's safe return. It's never a good idea to include an address on the tag, but if you are more accessible via e-mail you can use that.

When it comes to your dog's safety if it somehow ends up loose, a dog tag with only the pertinent information needed for its return can see that you are reunited with your four-footed friend.

How to Get Rid of Dog Dandruff

Dogs can also acquire dandruff for some reasons. Dandruff can be caused by diet, hygiene or environment factors. Here are some tips on how you can maintain your dog dandruff-free:

Give regular baths

When giving your dog a bath, use warm water and a mild shampoo to massage thoroughly into his skin, and rinse very well. It is advisable that you give your dog a bath once a month during winter season, and twice a month during summer. Regular baths will wash away flakes before they clump up and become dandruff.

Use pet shampoo with sulfur or salicylic acid

You can also try using a pet shampoo containing sulfur or salicylic acid. This might work better than a regular mild shampoo. When giving your dog a bath, lather the shampoo thoroughly on his skin and leave for about 5 minutes, and then rinse well. Never use medicated shampoo of humans because it can cause serious harm to your dogs, as well as prevent from using shampoo that contain insecticide because it can cause dryness to the skin of your dog.

Oatmeal as natural oil or fats storage

Oatmeal has the ability to help store natural oils into the skin, causing it to have enough moisture preventing the formation of dandruff. You can use the oatmeal soap humans use to reduce dry skin and prevent flaking. It will surely help moisturize the skin of your dog.

Oil rinse

Oil rinse also helps store moisture into the skin. You can spray generous amount of oil rinse to your dog's coat, preventing to cause dry skin. This is very useful in a dry climate.

Moisturizing lotion or cream

For moisturizing purposes as well, you can use your moisturizing lotion or cream to your dog's coat to avoid dry skin and flaking.

Natural herbs

Natural herbs mixture can also be very effective on dogs. You can mix equal parts of arum triph, viola tri, comocladia and cina plus chamomillia. Apply generous amount and massage thoroughly into the skin of your dog once a day for 4 days to eliminate dandruff.

So You Think You Want a Sugar Glider?

Sugar Gliders are not a craze or a fad, they are delicate and unusual pets that need extensive care, they can be very expensive and time consuming to keep.

They need a specialist diet, you cannot pop into your local pet shop to buy what they will need.

Oh yes, they look so cute, and sweet... and fluffy..., but don't be fooled! They are ferocious predators, in the wild they will easily catch small animals, they are natural born killers!

This gives you a clue that they can and will bite, they have very small, very sharp teeth as well as very strong little feet with claws. A forum I use calls them fluffy Cobras... sounds funny doesn't it? I mean, they are so sweet, so small and cuddly looking.. well trust me on this, Snuggie owners know exactly why they have this nickname, it is a very good description.

They are fast and furious and the noise they make will make you jump out of your skin.

If you are thinking of breeding these fascinating creatures, ask yourself why, then consider if anything upsets the parents they are quite likely to kill and eat their own Joeys. If their diet is wrong, again they are likely to turn cannibalistic.

Could you cope with that?

You think you could? Fine, how about their rather delightful toilet habits? They cannot control their bowel or bladder and will mess everywhere they go... and they can get to many places you couldn't.

They are aromatic little critters, they will wee all over you and rub their scent over everything, if you scrub and clean, they will simply scent mark all the more, a vicious circle.

Sugar Gliders are not for the squeamish

I've read of stories of owners sadly finding one of their much loved pets has died, if that wasn't horrible enough, these devastated owners have found their companions have eaten the eyes from their dead mate..

Not something you'd want your child to find one morning really is it?

Still reading?

They need a large cage, the bigger the better, they need time out of that cage for the essential poop spreading they are so good at, they also need plenty of toys and things to do, they are clever little things and easily get bored, so buy safe toys and change them often to keep them occupied, yes... more expense!

make sure the cage is secure, they are fantastic escape artists!

They love live insects and during feeding you'll see just how lightning fast they can be... amazing to watch, fairly gross when they take great pleasure in throwing bits of insect back at you.

They are nocturnal and have very delicate eyes, you cannot keep them in a brightly lit room, that would be very cruel... can you live in semi-darkness?

No bright TV's or fancy lights please, that's just nasty.

So you think you can handle all that? Yeah you think you want a Glider?

No, sorry again you are wrong, you cannot have a Glider, they are social animals that live in colonies, if you try and keep one, alone... it probably will die.

They need other Gliders, without company they are highly likely to self mutilate and die very quickly never ever consider keeping a Glider on it's own, that is selfish and cruel.

So we've got this far and you're still reading... that's good, however I am no expert and would highly recommend you reading and digesting all of the information you can get hold of.

Also make sure your local Vet knows about and can help you care for your Gliders.

Ferret Hammocks - Ideal Gift for Your Pet

You must have read that ferrets are very social creatures and have a lot of energy and are always up to something. This is true, but it is applicable only when they are awake. The fact is that ferrets spend nearly 15-20 hours in a day sleeping. You want to give the best conditions for your pet so that it can sleep comfortably. A ferret hammock is a very good option in this regard. It is becoming very popular and fashionable too, nowadays, to have a hammock for your pet. This is a good trend, as far as your pet is concerned.

Need

In their natural habitats, ferrets reside in cozy, dark holes. Hammocks replicate these conditions inside the cage. They fit snugly around your pet keeping it comfortable and provide it warmth, but also ensure a good ventilation since they are open. Even while awake, your pet prefers to stick to darker places and the hammock thus becomes an ideal plaything too.

Choosing and buying

Choosing an appropriate hammock for your ferret is important. You can have a small sized one if you have just one ferret or a large one for many. Also they are available in different shapes, such as flat hammocks, boot-shaped hammocks etc. Choosing the right material for the lining of the hammock is essential to provide warmth to your pet. Fleece is a very good choice and is very much preferred nowadays.

You can buy a hammock for a pet store nearby which stocks them. This lets you personally test it. The second option that you have is to buy one over the internet. This lets you choose from a wide range of products. Also, the products are reviewed by many people and this gives you better idea of which one to pick. The third option is to make one on your own. This is a very easy task and also gives you the liberty to personalize the hammock.

Having a ferret hammock for your beloved pet is a very good idea, as it not only provides comfort to your pet when it is sleeping, but also acts as a plaything. All this, at a very economical price too.

Understanding Hamsters Cages And Supplies

Regardless of the type of pet you plan to adopt, always be certain you have a unique home or habitat setup specifically for them, along with, all of the essential needs specific to the particular species, as a way to minimize the trauma and stress encountered when having to adjust to life in a brand new environment.

The first step before buying your pet, should be to determine which one of the various hamsters cages will be large enough to facilitate a healthy amount of activity, safe enough to prevent injury from falls or entanglement and should be easy to clean, thereby accommodating a regular schedule for hygiene and maintenance.

Substrate and bedding are important considerations, and should always include certain precautions. Wood shavings are commonly recommended and used by many pet owners, however hamsters should never be exposed to certain types of wood. Pine and cedar can cause respiratory and digestive problems for your little dwarf hamster, so it's a much safer option to insist on Aspen. An even better choice is the readily available paper and fiber-based bedding products available at most pet suppliers. Cotton nesting material is another old favorite that can cause problems when tangled around the toes. A better alternative, and much cheaper option will be to shred toilet paper or facial tissue and allow your hamster to utilize the safer material.

Always choose a high quality commercial food for your hamster pet. Food pellets typically offer a nutritionally balanced diet that's generally better than the loose mixtures of seeds and other dried components. Like most other animals, hamsters will pick out what they like and leave the rest, which unfortunately may not be the most nutritious portion.

Hamsters food dishes should be of a style that is difficult to turn over, thus spilling the contents all over the cage floor. A shallow stainless steel or ceramic material is preferred, since it's sturdy enough to resist damage from chewing and is of a material that is easily cleaned. A hanging water bottle, with a stainless steel leak proof spout is the most commonly utilized option for providing water to your hamster.

Hamsters love a hideaway to sleep and just hang out when in need of privacy, but most options are inconvenient because of issues dealing with destruction (chewing) or soiled, smelly and difficulty in cleaning. The most convenient and least expensive is a small cardboard box. Sure, they'll destroy it, but it can easily be replaced and most likely at zero cost. Additionally, a hamster wheel or hamster ball is an absolute necessity. The dwarf hamsters will most likely require the exercise ball for issues of escape and safety. And, of course you'll need a variety of items to chew on, to maintain their constantly growing teeth and climb up and down on and expend their high metabolic energy output.

And, a final note if you promise not to laugh, is a "hamster potty". Yeah, not too many people are familiar with this issue, but you can pick it up at some pet stores. The trick is to place it in the spot where you notice the majority of droppings in the hamsters cage and your little furry friend will make his deposits right in the little potty. All you have to do is empty it and refill it with hay or newspaper pellet-type of kitty litter. Wow, what'll they think of next?

Feeding Squirrels The Right Way

Few people realize the importance of feeding squirrels a well balanced and nutritious diet. After all, they're only squirrels! Good squirrel nutrition is very important for some very logical reasons. There are people who love to hate squirrels, but squirrels play a very important role in our world. For those who take the time to observe them, squirrels can offer an endless supply of zany behavior that can bring a smile to your face and amaze you with their resolute ability to entertain. Squirrels also play a much larger role in the food chain.

As much as I love squirrels, the harsh reality is that squirrels are at the bottom of the food chain. The only thing lower is the occasional insect or grub worm that a squirrel will eat. Other animals depend on the squirrel to make up part of their diet. Therefore, it's vitally important that the squirrel population be as healthy as possible. This fact is becoming even more critical as more predatory animals expand their range. Here in Ohio, the coyote could only be found in our Zoos 20 years ago. Today, coyotes have a growing population in all 88 counties. This puts a tremendous strain on the rabbit and squirrels population, that is felt all the way up the food chain! Limited numbers of game animals, such as squirrels and rabbits, will limit the ability of hawks and eagles to thrive.

Good squirrel nutrition translates into good hawk and eagle nutrition. We live in a cause and effect world. If you spray toxins on the ground, rivers become polluted and fish die. People who eat only fast food often develope problems with obesity or heart disease. The same is true with feeding squirrels. If you feed them junk food, they do not stay healthy and they become an unhealthy food for other animals.

Squirrels are like little children in many ways. They will eat almost anything as long as it tastes good. Just because a squirrel like to eat something doesn't mean it's good for them. Two common items people tend to feed squirrels are field corn and peanuts. Neither of these items are natural foods for squirrels unless they happen to live by a corn field or a peanut farm. Both have very poor nutritional value for squirrels, yet both carry a very high possibility of poisoning the squirrel. When corn or peanuts get wet, they become an ideal medium for growing Aspergillus Flavus, or Aflatoxin. Aflatoxin is a carcinogenic, (cancer causing,) mycotoxin that will attack a squirrel's liver and kill them.

Squirrels are herbivores, which means that their diet should mainly consist of vegetables. To keep squirrels as healthy as possible, they should only eat high quality vegetables, seeds, nuts and small quantities of fruit. When squirrels are in the wild and away from humans, they will naturally seek out these items. The problem comes when they depend on humans for most of their daily diet. If humans feed them peanuts and corn only, it's equivalent to taking them to a fast food restaurant, with the distinct possibility of killing them. It becomes even more of a problem when one person tries to feed them right, while all their neighbors continue to feed them junk.

This problem is not insurmountable. There are now companies that specialize in Squirrel Nutrition! Some even provide you with easy and free recipes that make food and Squirrel supplements that squirrels really enjoy, yet provide the vital vegetables and nutrients that keep them tip top health. You only need to Google "Squirrel Nutrition," to find ways to start feeding your backyard friends the right way!

Peacock Cichlid Fish Tank Setup in Just Ten Steps

Okay first is the inventory you will need to complete before getting started. Below you will find all the equipment you'll need get simple basic Cichlid fish tank up and functional.

Fish Tank Shopping List:
20 Gallon Aquarium
Aquarium gravel or sand
Aquarium filter
Replacement filters
Heater
Decorations (such as hardy plants, flower pots, mini caves and other structures)
Flat stones and limestone
Aquarium test kits to test water parameters and monitor the infamous aquarium nitrogen cycle
Cichlid fish food (consult with your pet store owner)
Aquarium vacuum
Net
Aquarium Glass Scrubber
5-gallon buckets
Plastic Strainer

STEP 1: Plan your set and maintenance

Setting up and maintain a successful Cichlid fish tank is not at all, with this easy to follow road map. All your effort will be very rewording. Don't get me wrong work is required to create this wonderful environment for you and your fish. It's very important task to keep your fish tank clean.

Get a calendar and mark out a plan of action for dates to clean your fish tank. This will make it easy to keep up with your tank cleaning schedule. Here is your maintenance plan; clean the glass, pump and filter once a week, or at most once every two weeks. Every month change at least 25 present of the tank water. Everyday add feed for your fish. You will also have to feed your fish at least once a day.

STEP 2: 20 gallon aquarium is best for the newbie Cichlid owner

Cichlid are aggressive, this size tank gives everyone a little room to room. It's to introduce a small group rather that a pair of fish. Here is where the decorations like plans, mini caves, stones and overturned pots can help with places for your Cichlids to hide and retrieve as they did in the wild.

STEP 3: What does location have to do with your fish tank?

Your number one goal is to keep your fish healthy and vibrant. Temperature plays a huge role in the overall health of your aquarium. It's extremely important you choose a location not exposed to any kind of heat sources especially direct sunlight. Avoid lights of any type that gives off heat of any kind sort.

Green algae will kill your fish, warm water produces algae, keeping your fish tank at the right temperature and again cleaning will minimize algae growth. Soap can also promote algae toxics, so do not use soap when cleaning.

Your 20 gallon tank will weigh about 200 pounds, so make sure the location will support the weight of the fish tank.

STEP 4: Aquarium and equipment purchase.

A couple of points to make sure you pay attention to when buying your equipment. Get details form someone at the store you buy all these items. The filter hast to handle the size tank and amount of water it will have to keep clean.

Make sure the heater will get the job done and is reliable. You should get a UPS unit with multiple outlets for all your electrical components. I recommend a UPS unit that will serve as a power source if the power goes out. Based on the type of UPS unit you get it will support your tank and equipment for up to 8 hours without power.

STEP 5: Aquarium stand and setup.

Remember no soap or any outer type of detergents. A good double wash and glass scrub before you put anything in the tank. If, you are using a stand as the platform of you aquarium, make sure to use the appropriate tools to tighten to manufacture's specs.

STEP 6: Everything gets washed!

Anything going into the tank permanently or temporally gets wash not just a mild rinsing I really mean washed. All, yes all plants live or fake, stones, gravel, pots, and parts of the filter that is exposed to the water. Again, I said everything that includes your hands. This step in short, be sure to wash everything thoroughly without soap or detergents that's it.

STEP 7: Fill the tank

After you placed your sand, stones, plants and decoration in the tank. Use tap water fill to recommend level. Some people like to use a bowl to break the flow of the water helping to keep things in place.

Let the aquarium stand for at least 24 hours. The tap water has chlorine and will dissipate overnight. Check the PH level to ensure the level are within scope.

STEP 8: Implementing equipment

Now take some time to read all instructions of the lamps, thermostat and water filter. It you never followed any instructions in your life. Follow the equipment instructions to install each device, because your Cichlid's life depends on your attention to details in the content of the equipment directions.

My two tips let the lamp and heater acclimate to the water temperature before you ever plug them in, let alone turning them on. Normal this can take about 20 to 30 minutes.

Now follow the instructions to install the tank filter. Now once everything setup.

STEP 9. Stabilization

Let stand one more 24 hour cycle. This will do two things. One ensures everything is working as advertised and guarantees the aquarium has stabilized. I know, but you have to wait just one a little longer before you add the fish.

STEP 10. Finally it time!

If, everything is in order, it's time to start introducing your fish to their new home. Add one or two fish at a time. Float the bags containing the fishes in the aquarium. This should be 5 to 10 minutes for each group. This gives the fish time to acclimate to the aquarium and gives your filtration system the time needed to take on the increased biological load that the new fish introduce.

Goldfish - One Fish With Many Different Varieties

Goldfish - Different types available

The goldfish apparently has an identity crisis. It is a fish with a single name, but many guises, some as extreme as to suggest that they belong to another species.

The goldfish has very humble beginnings, with its first natural mutation simply being a change in its colour. It dropped its brown demeanour for a yellow finish, and endeared itself to those who had initially reared it for food.

What has emerged since from such chrysalis-like beginnings has been a string of varieties with wild permutations in colour, shape and form. Even though these varieties do not resemble each other, it is easy to be carried away into thinking these are different species. Not so. So packed with gems were first goldfishes' genetic treasure chests that hidden in such meager packaging were the many fancy varieties based on the same theme. Coming at it biologically, all of the varieties of goldfish can be successfully interbred to produce viable offspring, which will continue to amaze and confound in the sheer diversity of varieties produced.

Over the years, breeders have concentrated on producing different varieties of goldfish by changing any of the physical features. Whatever the goldfish's feature, it has probably been mutated to produce a different variety at one time or another. Eye shape and position, body colouration and scalation, body shape, fin size, shape and number have all been changed to produce a different variety of goldfish.

The different varieties of goldfish can be divided quite practically into two groups. Those that will live and thrive in a garden pond (including over wintering) and those that will not, and are best kept in an aquarium full time or brought in for the pond to overwinter inside. This latter group are referred to a fancy goldfish in the trade and will generally be displayed for sale in aquaria rather than open topped troughs and tanks.

1). Goldfish varieties safe for the pond.

There is a general rule of thumb in recognising whether a goldfish variety is suitable for a pond. If it resembles the overall typical shape of a goldfish, but shows differences in colour or even fin length, then it is likely to be hardy enough to tolerate UK winters and fast enough to compete for food in a pond.

Examples of these fish include:-

The common goldfish.
Typically a very evenly pigmented fish with short and sturdy fins and tail. Often available in a number of different colour variations where other colours such as white and black appear on top of the original golden colouration.

The Comet goldfish.
These have been bred for a long tail fin, which in larger specimens may be half the length of the whole body. Comets are rarely one colour, but will regularly display white and red patterns that are more pronounced when viewed from the top. Furthermore, the comet's colour is usually more red than gold.

Shubunkin.
Compared with the other previous goldfish varieties, the Shubunkin is extremely distinctive in its colouration, with much variation occurring between individual fish. Rather than being gold, Shubunkins are blue where the colour appears to come from beneath the scales rather than from above as in the traditional goldfish. The Shubunkin has a black and orange mottling set on the bluish 'mother of pearl' like background. I remember when I first saw Shubunkins, that I was put off because their imperfect and random patterning made them appear diseased!

2). The fancy gold fish.

These are more distant relatives of the goldfish and been selected to exhibit some extreme physical features. These fish are so in-bred that they lack the vigour of their distant relatives. They will not tolerate a British winter in a pond.

Examples of these fish include:

A. Orandas
When viewed from above, their double-tail looks like a butterfly. They can adopt a variety of colours, including calico, which resembles a Shubunkin.

B. Blackmoor
Similar in shape to an Oranda, this black fish has bulbous eyes that project from the head.

C. Lionheads
These have a development on their head similar to the mane of a male lion. They too have a twin tail, but lack a dorsal fin.

D. Bubble Eyes, Pom-Poms and Celestials
These are all fancy goldfish in the extreme. Where breeders have selected for wild variations in head and eye developments.

What To Do When Your Reef Tank Has A Bad Case of Cyanobacteria (Slime Algae) and Diatoms

If you plan on keeping a saltwater aquarium for any amount of time, whether it is a reef tank or a fish-only with live rock tank (FOWLR), you are likely to experience an outbreak of cyanobacteria and diatoms. Cyanobacteria or "Cyano" is also referred to as green slime algae (also comes in red and brown). As it's name implies, Cyanobacteria covers rocks and sand with a thin slimy film. And while it is easily removed by siphoning, if the conditions that support it are not improved, then it will quickly return.

Cyanobacteria and diatoms are brought on by the following factors:

- high phosphate (>.5) and silicate
- high nitrates (>25ppm)
- insufficient current/water movement
- high organics
- low alkalinity (<3.0>

Three products that work to treat the symptom (not the cause - see above) are as follows:

- Chemiclean, which will eradicate the cyanobacteria (reef safe - we've used it in our service business for years)

- Granular Ferric Oxide (removes phosphate and silicates) - we prefer Rowaphos, but there are other brands that work as well too. This is great for removing phosphate, although a bit expensive. Remember to focus on lessening the source of input of phosphate into your system (i.e. tapwater and foods). For tapwater we filter with RODI (target is zero TDS). As for the foods, we strongly recomment rinsing your frozen foods prior to feeding. You'd be amazed at the amount of gook (scientific term) that would otherwise go into your tank/system.

- Doxicyclene hyclate - it has been years since I've used this for treating RTN (rapid tissue necrosis) in corals, but we also noticed that it was great for temporarily eradicating cyanobacteria. I say temporary, because this is just treating the symptom and not the cause. As long as the original cause (see above) is still there, the cyano will likely return.

If your type of saltwater tank is a fish-only with live rock (FOWLR), you are always going to have significantly higher phosphates, nitrates, silicates and organics to deal with than you would in a reef tank - even if you had the same number of fish in a reef tank. This is because in FOWLR tanks, there are no (or very few) corals, sponges, coraline algae, clams, filter feeders, etc. to help remove nutrients from the water.

So with a FOWLR tank, you will need to be more aggressive with use of carbon, GFO (granular ferric oxide - removes phosphate) and with the removal of detritus. I strongly recommend "storming the tank" at least twice a month (during normal/ideal conditions), but I would recommend doing it once a month in your current situation.

What I mean by "Storming the tank", is putting a powerhead on a stick/pipe and blast the rock to liberate detritus that has collected in the live rock. And then having some type of mechanical filtration in use to remove the detritus now that it is suspended in the water column.

To do this you can use a canister filter, D.E. filter (diatomacious earth), or even a small powerfilter (hang-on-the-side). Or if you don't have any of these items, you can storm the tank with the powerhead and then siphon it off the surfact of the rock/sand as you do a large water change. With this method I recommend blasting with the powerhead twice during the water change, allowing it to settle out for siphoning between blasting.

So if you end up with an outbreak of cyanobacteria or diatoms in your reef tank or fish-only tank (FOWLR), consider yourself fortunate that it is just cyanobacteria and dyatoms, which are relatively easy to get rid of, and not something more difficult like bryopsis or hair algae. And remember, you are better off preventing than reacting.

The River Murray Rainbow Fish

The River Murray Rainbow Fish, Melanotaenia fluviatilis,is one of the many types of Australian Rainbow fish. This group mainly a tropical and subtropical group of fishes, but this Fish's range extends into warm temperate areas and it is able to take quite low water temperatures.

Origin

The River Murray Rainbow Fish is endemic to Australia. As its name suggests it is found in the River Murray. It is also found in many but not all of the Murray's tributaries and several other river systems and lakes.

Size

They can reach 10 cm (4 inches long), but most are smaller than this. The males tend to be bigger than the females.

Temperature

Most of the articles on the internet about this Fish suggest that a temperature of between 22 and 26 degrees C is ideal for this species. My experience suggests otherwise. Although this is a very versatile fish which will certainly live healthily in an aquarium, being treated as if it were a tropical fish, the specimens with the best colour tend to be pond fish, subject to the natural rise and fall of temperature with the different seasons as well as the different weather.

Water Conditions

This fish is able to take a wide range of conditions. Most of the places it occurs naturally have a high pH and the water is quite hard. In an aquarium I suggest that the pH should be between 6.8 and 8. Excessively soft water is not ideal, but most tap waters will be of a suitable hardness. As with all fish, the Chlorine or Chloramine needs to be removed before it comes into contact with the fish.

Food

This is an omnivorous fish. Like many of its relatives it eats more plant material than most tropical fish. They will live on either Tropical or Goldfish food, but this should be supplemented with vegetable matter. Duckweed (Lemna species) is eaten very readily by this Fish. They also like many types of vegetable. I cook the harder vegetables enough to soften them. Zucchini are eaten as are cucumber, green peas and other vegetables. Like many fish they also relish insect larvae like mosquito larvae, small crustaceans like daphnia, and small worms. Our River Murray Rainbow Fish get frozen blood worms once a week as well as frozen brine shrimp once a week on a different day.

Environmental Enrichment For Your Rat Or Mouse

Rats & mice are extremely active and intelligent animals, and thus require exercise and mental stimulation for optimal health. These animals are often purchased as pets for children and many are housed in smaller than adequate cages with only the bare essentials such as food, water and an exercise wheel. Just imagine how bored you would be living in a bare room with an exercise bike as the only form of mental and physical activity?

There are a number of fun and easy ways you can provide toys and enrich the environment of your pet rat or mouse:

Toys to CHEW - These are necessary for dental health, as rodents teeth grow continuously throughout their life and need to be constantly worn down. Safe chew toys for rats and mice include rawhide chews, nylabones, untreated wood, cardboard rolls, boxes and egg cartons.

Toys to SHRED - Softer items such as toilet paper or tissues, sisal rope and straw provide hours of entertainment for your pet rat or mouse. They particularly enjoy shredding these substances to use as bedding material to line their sleeping areas. Ensure you do not give your pets any toys containing soft rubber, soft plastics, leather or string as these materials can cause an intestinal obstruction.

Toys to PUSH & CARRY - Many rats and mice love to carry or push small toys around. Sturdy, hollow plastic cat toys with bells inside or acrylic toys provide great entertainment for your pet.

CLIMBING Toys - Ladders, branches, hammocks, ropes, PVC tubes, boxes and bird perches can provide numerous climbing opportunities for your pet rat or mouse. These items can be secured to the sides or top of the cage to increase the amount of play area in your pet's cage.

FORAGING Toys - Rats and mice in the wild spend much of their day foraging for food. In captivity, we often put out a bowl of food for our pet rat or mouse and that bowl is simply placed in the same area, with the same food in it every day. Our pets quickly become lazy, bored and overweight from the lack of enrichment and foraging opportunities in their lives. Provide your pet rat or mouse with mental stimulation by hiding their food in specially designed foraging toys, treat balls, cardboard rolls or tubes. Bird foraging toys made from bamboo or cholla cactus can also be used for rodents.

TUNNELS - Rats and mice in the wild use and construct tunnels from items in their environment on a regular basis. Tunnels made of sturdy plastic, acrylic or PVC can be placed in the cage or attached to the side or top of your pet's house. Ensure you select a tunnel with a large enough diameter to prevent your rat or mouse from becoming stuck in the tunnel. Blocks of untreated wood can also be hollowed out to make tunnels which rats and mice may enlarge themselves. You can provide ready-made tunnels for your pet, or allow them to construct their own from various materials provided in their environment.

EXERCISE WHEELS & BALLS - Activity wheels provide an excellent way for your rat or mouse to exercise within the confines of their cage. Solid wheels made from plastic or acrylic are safer and preferable over wheels with wire bars that can trap your pet's feet or tail.

Exercise balls are also a great fitness tool for your rat or mouse outside of the cage. Always monitor your pet while they are playing in an exercise ball to ensure they do not overheat and are always playing in a safe, flat area.

If you have a pet rat or mouse, use your imagination and enrich their life by providing them with a range of toys that will keep them entertained for hours.

Ferret Colors - The Two Main Types

Usually pets like dogs and cats are classified based on their appearances and origins. This is possible because of the large variations in the different varieties. Ferrets, however, do not show many differences in their physical characteristics. They are therefore classified depending on the ferret color and pattern of coloration. The fur of ferrets is made up of "undercoat", which is the original coat, and the "guardhair," which is the long hair. Ferrets are present in many different colors. The coloration considered is that of the guardhair. However, they can all be primarily categorized into albino and sable. The white colored variant is the albino ferret whereas all the remaining colored ones are variants of sable.

Albino ferrets

Albino ferrets are so called because they lack pigments responsible for coloration. That is why they are white in color. The whiteness can vary from a pure white to a yellowish white. They usually have red eyes and pink noses. There are also some varieties with black eyes. These are called Dark eyed white (DEW) ferrets. Albinos have a very endearing appearance and are very popular among ferret-owners.

Sable ferrets

The color sable is a type of a rich brown. It is so dark that it appears black at times. Sable ferrets have brown to black colored guardhair. They have an undercoat that is cream colored and dark brown or black eyes. They also have a mask pattern across their faces. Depending on the intensity of the color, guardhair might appear chocolate, cinnamon or champagne. These are quite common and have lead to some people classifying these as different groups.

The patterning of color on the ferret is also very important and contributes to the identity of your pet. One thing to keep in mind is that ferrets tend to change their color over the natural course of their lives. Silver ferrets tend to turn into DEW ferrets. Similarly, some ferrets may gain and some may lose their color. Therefore, you must not base your choice totally on the ferret color. You must pay more attention to their personality as this is more important.

Ferret Forum - Everything You Need To Know

Sometimes, everyone needs some help with their pets from people who have had same experiences with theirs. The other times they simply want to share their pets' stories and have fun. This is exactly what a Ferret forum is made for. It is a community of people who own a ferret, adore the animal or want to know more about it. Where else can you find accurate information about the little exotic pet?

About ferrets

Ferrets are small creatures, active and very smart but also mischievous. They are quick learners - use a few commands and they will start responding in a few days. If you haven't seen this animal before, imagine an animal between cats and dogs, only smaller. Ferrets are great pets and a lot of fun. You can learn a lot about this domestic animal if you search a Ferret forum - true stories, about their health and nutrition and also some tricks that you can teach them.

Teaching them tricks

Ferrets don't do tricks to please the owner - they do it to get something from them. Therefore, it's a good idea to bribe them when teaching them a new trick. The first thing you can teach your Ferret is responding to its name. Just like dogs, Ferrets also follow commands; they can easily start to recognize their name. Call them repeatedly by their names and when they look at you, reward them to appreciate the effort. Soon, they will leave everything and come running whenever you call them because they know you will treat them with something.

Roll over is an easy maneuver. Make your Ferret lie on its belly and give it a treat. Say "roll over" and roll it over to its back and give another treat. Keep repeating the exercise, giving it scratches and treats and before you know, it will roll over on its own expecting a treat.

The forums also carry information on how to discipline the Ferrets and train them to behave. They are playful and sometimes they could be a bit of trouble. The suggested method is to spray them with water when they're misbehaving but some Ferrets actually enjoy it. Thumping their nose is another way. Ferrets are not afraid of danger and they find trouble somehow. Therefore, you have to watch them carefully to keep them out of harm's way.

Miniature Dachshund Puppies - Complete Guide to Mini Dachshund Puppies

Miniature Dachshund Puppies are adorable and fun little dogs to love and own. It's hard to own just one of these cute little guys. Miniature Dachshund Puppies are not AKC recognized like their standard sized friends. They usually end up weighing between 8-12 pounds, so if you're looking for small dogs that like to have fun, Miniature Dachshund Puppies just might be the perfect dogs for you!

Mini Dachshunds usually grow to 5-10 inches in height and can come in a variety of colors and coats. Miniature Dachshund Puppies can have coats that are Smooth, Long Hair, or Wire. The Smooth coat is sleek and short, the Wire-Haired coat is a double coat (the outer coat is short and hard and the under coat is soft and fine), and the Long-Haired coat is elegant, usually shiny, slightly wavy, and is longer on the neck, chest, underside of the body, and behind the legs. Their coats can have a color consisting of brindle, sable, or dapple, bi-color of black, chocolate, blue, or fawn, and solid of red and cream. Miniature Dachshund Puppies were originally bred to hunt hare, while their bigger standard sized friends were bred to hunt badgers. These Terrier puppies were originated in Germany. Mini Dachshunds are very popular pets and are even occasionally still used for hunting.

Mini Dachshund Character:

Miniature Dachshund Puppies, although small, are a robust and muscular breed. They are most well known for their short legs and long bodies. These cute little puppies are very adventurous, curious, bold, and possess an alert and intelligent expression.

Dachshund Temperament:

Mini Dachshunds are known for being devoted, affectionate, and loving. It is important to keep in mind that when they begin to mature they can become snappish when teased. You should also be careful of their small size, so they seem to do best in a home with older children. Miniature Dachshund Puppies can sometimes grow to be aggressive or jealous of other pets and can be wary of strangers, so just keep this in mind. They are great at alerting their family to visitors or out of the ordinary occurrences.

Wiener Dog Care:

It's good to know that a Miniature Dachshund Puppy is relatively easy to care for. If you own a Smooth or Wire-Haired coat puppy, they require weekly brushing to remove loose and dead hair. Wire-Haired puppies also need to be professionally trimmed twice a year. If you own a Long-Haired puppy, be sure to remember that they require daily brushing to prevent matting and tangling. They do not tend to smell like other dogs do, requiring baths when necessary. Some of the health issues that Mini Dachshunds can encounter in their lives are obesity, hip dysplasia, spinal problems, epilepsy, bloat, and eye disease. So, just be sure to look out for these health issues and try to prevent them and care for them.

Mini Dachshund Training:

Dachshunds tend to be a bit stubborn and willful, which can make training a little bit more challenging. They have a tendency to like to do things their way. They are known to be difficult to housebreak, so housebreaking combined with crate training is recommended. Be sure to socialize your Miniature Dachshund puppies early, while knowing that obedience is a must. Keep in mind that they will not respond to harsh or heavy-handed methods. In saying that, training your mini dachshund puppies must be done with firmness, fairness, patience, and consistency. Be a calm and assertive pack leader to your dachshund puppies.

Miniature Dachshund Activity:

Mini Dachshunds will do great in city or country living. Although they do not need a ton of exercise, be sure that the exercise you provide them is sufficient to prevent boredom and obesity. Be sure to keep them on a leash when out for walks, as they by nature love to chase!

Overall, Miniature Dachshund Puppies are a wonderful dog to own. They are fun-loving, loyal, full of energy, and can be great alert dogs. As with a lot of breeds, Miniature Dachshund Puppies need plenty of love, training, stability, and consistency. They do love to please their owners, so working with them will be to your benefit. Miniature Dachshund Puppies have been very popular puppies to own and probably will be for a long time. Who could resist such a cute and loveable puppy! Miniature Dachshund Puppies might just be the perfect puppy for you and can be a great addition to your pack.

Avoid Your Cat Suffering From Boredom With Cat Toys

When it's time to leave your cat behind and head out for work, it's important to provide adequate cat toys for your pet to be active throughout the day. There are fantastic products currently on the market that will provide hours of play time for your cat.

Here are some ideas:

Catnip - A perfect addition to any product and your cat will love it. Catnip is both safe and natural for your pet. There is a large variety of cat toys that include catnip in all different shapes and sizes. It's good to have a few types of these cat toys with catnip around the house, as your cat will love to seek them out and will keep them active.

Treat Balls - Another great way to motivate your cat. Fill them up with your cats favourite treats and just leave it in an open space at home. By the end of the day the treat ball will be empty and would have provided plenty of playtime and exercise.

Scratch Posts / Cat Tree's - These products are essential to have in your home for your pet. Cat's love to climb and it's important to provide a post for them to scratch, otherwise they will find good use of your furniture. Cat tree's with added cat toys and levels for them to climb onto are a real bonus and will soon enough be your cats favourite area to sleep and play. They are also important if you have a cat that is indoors only. Providing them with a cat tree will certainly help them keep in shape.

The following are some great ideas for cat toys. Ensuring your cat will be busy happily while you're away at work. There are heaps of other cat toys available but just a few toys mentioned can make a massive difference to you and your pets well-being.

Homemade Cat Food - Is Your Homemade Cat Food Balanced and Safe?

Feeding your cat homemade cat food is a good idea for the optimal health of your cat. However, that does not mean you can feed your cat any ol' thing and expect your cat to stay strong and healthy.

Cats, like humans, need to have a balanced diet in order to thrive to their optimal health and unfortunately many people do not realize this before they decide to give making homemade cat food a try.

Before you feed your cat things that you make, please make sure that you are doing your research. Look online for foods that are poisonous to your cat or better yet find a book that tells you how to make homemade cat food and how to make sure your cat is getting a balanced diet.

An example of something people would put in the food that is a big no-no is garlic. Garlic is poisonous to cats but since we tend to use a lot of garlic in our food we may never think twice about adding it to flavor our homemade food for the cat.

Another thing that is a big NO as far as feeding felines is tomatoes. Tomatoes are another poisonous thing we tend to want to give them.

Raw eggs are also something you should not feed them when you make homemade cat food because just like us they could indeed get salmonella. Because they are so small they have a much higher chance of dying from salmonella then we do.

You can not give your kitty raw dough. I don't know if that is something I would have considered giving my cat anyways but the reason they can't eat raw dough is because it could continue to rise in their stomachs thus causing major damage.

This is not a complete list but you get the idea. So between people feeding their felines things that are poisonous and not giving them a complete balanced meal, something wonderful like feeding cats homemade cat food has gotten a bad rap.

As I said before, feeding your cat homemade cat food is wonderful for your cat's health as long as you take the time to learn how to properly make the homemade cat food.

An Ideal Pet Rabbit Cage

If you know what you are looking for, purchasing pet rabbit cages is not at all difficult. If you are an experienced pet owner then you need to have right knowledge on size, shape and material of cage. In order to know more about rabbit cages, you should follow tips mentioned in the following paragraphs. They will be of great help in choosing the right cage for your rabbit.

Nowadays, besides the type of material as well as the size, people are also opting considering the fashion aspect. You have to make a homey cage for the rabbit. Comfort is no doubt one of the most important aspects to be considered when you opt for these cages, but so is fashion. You will find plenty of trendy cages available in the market these days.

Bigger cages are no doubt recommended, but it's not that you have to opt only for the bigger cages; sometimes smaller cages prove to be better than bigger ones. Rabbits and bunnies are very restless and fidgety, thus you have to choose the size of the cage accordingly.

Your pet rabbit grows gradually, so it can outgrow the cage. Thus, you need to dump the old one and buy a new and a spacious one to meet all your expenses. So keeping these things in mind you need to get hold of a buffer sized rabbit cage. A frail one will involve braking of the cage and it will force you to shell out more extra money. Ventilation should be proper as you don't want your pet to feel suffocated inside the cage. If they cages are aerated appropriately this implies that they have fresher air to breather. You need to also wrap your pet rabbit in a comfortable way otherwise he will die due to cold.

You will find lot of rabbit cages that are made of net walls and wire floors. Wood floor cages are more preferred than wired ones. Wire cages can leads to skin cuts and endure fur loss. The base of the floor should be sturdy and lightweight.

You should make sure that the cages you are buying should be weather resistant also. Rust is one of the most common problems in these cages. So make sure you only opt for high quality cages.

Love Rabbits

Rabbits are among the most adorable pets. They are very soft natured. However, there might be many reasons behind changing behavior of rabbits. This article will make you aware of some of the most common reasons behind changing behavior of rabbits.

One of the major reasons might be that your pet has not been neutered or spayed. Whenever you buy a baby rabbit, you will notice a sudden change in his behavior or personality once he or she attains the age of 3-4 months. The cause of the change of the behavior is that he undergoes a hormonal change and age of reproduction. During this phase, rabbits tend to become territorial and resists being picked up. Thus, you should not try to touch it too much. If you want to make him happy then you should put a nice treat inside the cage.

Female rabbits in particular get rebellious and they growl sometimes. Many pet owners assume that the rabbit is mean and they want to get rid of it as soon as possible. However, once it passes this phase he will cool down and will return to its normal composure. So you have to adjust to his changing habits when he is in the transition phase.

It might be very much possible that your rabbit is sick. Changing behaviors is a vital sign of medical fitness. So if your rabbit is showing a nasty behavior then do check whether he is ill or not. He might be in pain. His eating bowl and litter box are the two areas which you should check, any change in the regular eating or filling habits needs to be checked. Even small problems like mites and fleas may upset your rabbit. To counteract this, you need to get the medical checkup of your pet done.

Another reason might be that your rabbit is under some stress. Sometimes rabbit is not too comfortable with the presence of other pets. Sometime barking dogs tend to irritate the pet rabbits and thus you should make sure that they are comfortable in their cages or homes. Noise causes irritation in pets, thus make necessary arrangements. In this case, you have to move the cage to a silent room.

Rabbits are silent, soft natured and loyal. They also love to play and interact with people. All they require is little love and care and everything will work for sure.

Getting a Hamster and Giving It Your Best

Your hamster deserves the best. Now you have decided on the Hamster, you will need to think comfort. If you want it to have the best possible experience you need to consider its living environment. For the most part you will need to have the right accessories in your hamsters cage.

This will ensure that your new pet has a luxury living experience and is not hampered by any unnecessary injuries that could have been avoided. The Hamster is a very cute pet to buy, and will bring joy and happiness to the whole family.

Here is something to consider when buying cage accessories

When you decide to get a cage for your Hamster, you need to think about the things that you put in the cage. What you put in the cage will keep your pet occupied. There are a number of things that you can look at such as accessories for climbing. There are a number of different climbers that can be put in a Hamsters cage so its up to you to find the best one.

The different types of accessories may involve, tubing, hamster wheels and tunnels, which will keep your pet occupied. All of these will provide plenty of variety for your pet. When you have the right balance of accessories in the cage you can sit back and watch the Hamster play the whole day. Its a nice sight to see your pet happy.

Buying accessories for a Hamsters cage is an important part of having this pet. You will need to think carefully about what you put in the cage. Having the wrong accessories in a cage may cause more harm than good. You should stay away from anything that your hamster could potential get its foot trapped in.

HOME » Pets How To Serve Pet Supplements

Pet supplements can be easy for any animal to take advantage of. Many supplements for cats and dogs can work with easy to handle formulas that will not be too difficult for a person to prepare. Here is a look at how a person can easily serve one of these supplements.

A person will need to take the formula and prepare it without any additional materials. Most of these pet supplements will be in liquid forms. This is a form that will be easy to handle and measure. This can be simple for anyone to use when preparing something for one's pet.

A typical supplement should be shaken before it is given out. This is so the supplement will have all of its contents in an area. This is needed to ensure that the pet supplement will work properly. It is so the right ingredients will be in the mixture. This is critical because of how some ingredients can bind with each other during the settling process.

A correct measurement will be needed after the supplement is ready. The measurement will vary according to the weight of the pet. For example, two teaspoons of a supplement could be used for an animal who is fifteen pounds in weight or less. Meanwhile, one tablespoon could be used for an animal that is 16 to 30 pounds in weight. Four tablespoons can be used for a pet that is 31 to 50 pounds. One ounce, or two tablespoons, should be used for one that is 51 to 100 pounds in weight. Some special types of supplements will be needed for people who are 101 pounds or greater in weight.

A good part of serving supplements is that they can be mixed in some drinks. A good supplement can be mixed in a water dish. This may be used to make it easier for an animal to use the supplement. This is critical because of how some animals might not be fully interested in some kinds of pet supplements due to their flavors.

Many supplements can even be mixed into food bowls. This is where a supplement can be added to a food that is already wet. This is especially useful for animals that eat wet food over dry food. This can work to make the supplement get added into a pet's diet without any concerns. It is much easier to do this for wet food than with dry food.

It is smart to see how supplements can be served. These supplements can be handled in ways that involve getting one to receive the right materials in a supplement in an effective manner. Be sure to see this factor when getting a supplement to work for your pet's needs.

Arowana Care: Weighing Whether or Not to Use Tank Substrate in Your Arowana

Most people do not like the idea of putting tanks substrate in their Arowana tank. This is because the presence of such will require additional efforts in terms of maintaining the tank. Considering the fact that Arowana tanks are generally big in size, this additional measure is a substantial undertaking. Tank substrates require such because it gathers toxic waste. Also, given the rate and manner in which these tanks are sullied by its occupants, the presence of substrates can aggravate the effect of a malfunction in the filtration system into proportions lethal to the Arowana.

The physical size of the Arowana tank, the filtering system, and the Arowana itself ultimately determine the frequency in which the tanks substrates will need to be cleaned. For example, if the filtration system is poor, toxic buildup occurs faster, hence the tank substrates need to be cleaner more often. As a general rule, vacuuming of the substrate needs to be done at least once every 10 days.

Is the extra trouble worth keeping the substrate? In answer, you should consider that it is very beneficial for the Arowana if you can give it a bottom reference point in the form of the tanks substrates. This is a common belief among many Arowana enthusiasts and is the reason why most of them undertake the extra work nevertheless.

A very good argument for keeping substrates in your Arowana tank is that it is the best option for giving a "bottom" for your pet fish. Extra work or not, it is healthy for the fish to have a bottom. In lieu of substrate, you may paint the lowest part of the outside of your tank. This method achieves the same goal as the substrate. However, in terms of the aesthetic schema, it is easy to change, replace, or remove the tank substrate while the paint option is irreversible.

Arowana Care: Test Your Arowana Tank Water

The Arowana is a prized fished that requires special attention especially in terms of water care. The unfortunate end of such a pet means not only moral turmoil for the owner but also the laying to waste of a considerable amount of investment. This is why any grower or owner of the Arowana should invest much effort in making sure that the Arowana tank is safe for the fish. The best way to do this is testing the water regularly. Ideally, testing should be done at least once a week.

This minimum requirement is based on the principle that the more times you check the water, the better chances you have catching an anomaly in time. This will enable you to solve or remedy these water problems before they adversely affect the Arowana. It is much preferable for any person to fix water conditions in the Arowana tank instead of having to remedy the resulting ailments in the fish later.

Before testing the water, you should know what to test for. Elements which are deemed to be harmless to us humans or negligible in other pets may prove to be quite detrimental for Arowanas. Ammonia, nitrate and nitrate are only a few elements to watch out for. You should also keep the temperature of the water in your Arowana tank constantly in check.

Fortunately for the Arowana enthusiasts, this task is made easier and cheaper by innovative manufacturers that have come up with test kits that test for these elements instantly. Now, constant checking is both easy in terms of time, effort and resources. You don't have to go to laboratories and wait for results anymore. The only thing you need to do is to keep these test kits in good condition. Follow the guidelines for storing these kits closely to get the most accurate results.

The Arowana fish is easy to keep, but hard to master when it comes to bringing out its best colors. Expose your Arowana's true colors using the simplest, laziest but most effective Arowana fish techniques.

Don't Buy Your BiOrb Aquarium Until You Read This

If you don't have the time to gather together all of the equipment that you need to setup a standard home or office aquarium or if you are a beginner aquarist and you need aquarium setup to be straightforward or perhaps you don't want to spend hours every month maintaining your aquarium then the BiOrb aquarium range is ideal for you.

Not only do all of the BiOrb range look stunning but they also have a unique built in 5 stage filter system that keeps the aquarium water crystal clear. In addition they come with special ceramic 'gravel' which is porous and is able to hold a very large number of the friendly bacteria responsible for keeping ammonia and nitrite levels down. Maintenance wise all that is necessary is to change the filter cartridge when specified and to change some of the water every month to keep down the nitrate levels.

The biggest thing to remember is that the BiOrb range is totally made up of relatively small aquaria compared with normal size glass tanks. The biggest mistake that you can make with a BiOrb tank is to fill it with far too many fish, much more than the filter and aeration system can handle. Even one goldfish in a baby BiOrb is too much and of course fish grow and can easily outgrow your BiOrb aquarium. Some fish, whatever their size are just not suitable, they may need lots of plants or more water than the BiOrb can provide.

So here is a list of advantages:

Good design and excellent lighting effects consistent through the whole BiOrb range
The baby BiOrb will fit where other tanks won't
Everything you need is in the box including full instructions
The BiOrb range is made from plexiglas acrylic which is ten times stronger than glass
The filter cartridge is easy to clean and change
The 5 stage filtration system keeps the fish healthy and reduces maintenance
and disadvantages:

BiOrb quality and design does not come cheap
The small size of these tanks limits your choice of fish and their numbers
The top opening of the globle shaped tanks can make cleaning more difficult
Conclusion

Taking everything into account there is no doubt that these aquariums look great, particularly with the special lighting effects provided by the intelligent LED lighting. For an easy entry into the wonderful world of aquarium keeping they can certainly be recommended.

7 Things to Remember When Shopping For and Setting Up Your Chinchilla Cage

Chinchillas, as owners can attest, are hyperactive. Thus, when setting up your cage, don't just settle on the cheap or the good-looking ones. Here are 7 things to check first when buying/setting-up your cage.

1. Go large - the chinchillas are creature that loves to run around and jump and play. Therefore, a small cage won't do well if they can just eat and walk around a little bit. Plus, you won't have the enjoyment of seeing them in the loose.

2. Wood or metal - some prefer wood for their exterior and some prefer metals for the durability. Whatever the case, make sure it is non toxic and make sure it will last as a good value in exchange for your money. After all, it will be your chinchillas who will be the final judge.

3. Mesh - many people don't like the mesh with smaller holes due to they are hard to clean. However, bigger size mesh has been the cause of many foot and toe injuries among the chinchillas. They run around and jump so if it's not the correct size, they surely can get caught and be injured in the process.

4. Levels - will it only be a single level or two or three with ladders? Chinchillas easily get bored and may result to unwanted behavior if they can't run around and play. Just make sure that if they accidentally fall from higher level, the mesh can provide adequate cushion.

5. Play items- this includes a good Chinchilla wheel, balls, hammocks, climbing decks, etc. They are extremely playful and if you don't provide them something to play with, then you lost the purpose of keeping them...an idle chin, one that just sits and eats, is an unhappy chin!

6. Mobility- Do you have to carry the entire weight of the cage when moving it or does it have wheels for easily doing so? Are they constructed as a whole or were they assembled inside your house? Would they fit out the door for a dose of sunshine for your chinchillas or when you need to transfer?

7. Waste tray and feeders- The waste tray and the feeders should be easily removable for cleaning. The feeder should be easy to refill if you do it on a daily basis or should be functioning well if you have one of those bulk ones.

It is a fun way to spend the day when you're watching or even playing with your chinchilla.