What To Do When Your Reef Tank Has A Bad Case of Cyanobacteria (Slime Algae) and Diatoms

If you plan on keeping a saltwater aquarium for any amount of time, whether it is a reef tank or a fish-only with live rock tank (FOWLR), you are likely to experience an outbreak of cyanobacteria and diatoms. Cyanobacteria or "Cyano" is also referred to as green slime algae (also comes in red and brown). As it's name implies, Cyanobacteria covers rocks and sand with a thin slimy film. And while it is easily removed by siphoning, if the conditions that support it are not improved, then it will quickly return.

Cyanobacteria and diatoms are brought on by the following factors:

- high phosphate (>.5) and silicate
- high nitrates (>25ppm)
- insufficient current/water movement
- high organics
- low alkalinity (<3.0>

Three products that work to treat the symptom (not the cause - see above) are as follows:

- Chemiclean, which will eradicate the cyanobacteria (reef safe - we've used it in our service business for years)

- Granular Ferric Oxide (removes phosphate and silicates) - we prefer Rowaphos, but there are other brands that work as well too. This is great for removing phosphate, although a bit expensive. Remember to focus on lessening the source of input of phosphate into your system (i.e. tapwater and foods). For tapwater we filter with RODI (target is zero TDS). As for the foods, we strongly recomment rinsing your frozen foods prior to feeding. You'd be amazed at the amount of gook (scientific term) that would otherwise go into your tank/system.

- Doxicyclene hyclate - it has been years since I've used this for treating RTN (rapid tissue necrosis) in corals, but we also noticed that it was great for temporarily eradicating cyanobacteria. I say temporary, because this is just treating the symptom and not the cause. As long as the original cause (see above) is still there, the cyano will likely return.

If your type of saltwater tank is a fish-only with live rock (FOWLR), you are always going to have significantly higher phosphates, nitrates, silicates and organics to deal with than you would in a reef tank - even if you had the same number of fish in a reef tank. This is because in FOWLR tanks, there are no (or very few) corals, sponges, coraline algae, clams, filter feeders, etc. to help remove nutrients from the water.

So with a FOWLR tank, you will need to be more aggressive with use of carbon, GFO (granular ferric oxide - removes phosphate) and with the removal of detritus. I strongly recommend "storming the tank" at least twice a month (during normal/ideal conditions), but I would recommend doing it once a month in your current situation.

What I mean by "Storming the tank", is putting a powerhead on a stick/pipe and blast the rock to liberate detritus that has collected in the live rock. And then having some type of mechanical filtration in use to remove the detritus now that it is suspended in the water column.

To do this you can use a canister filter, D.E. filter (diatomacious earth), or even a small powerfilter (hang-on-the-side). Or if you don't have any of these items, you can storm the tank with the powerhead and then siphon it off the surfact of the rock/sand as you do a large water change. With this method I recommend blasting with the powerhead twice during the water change, allowing it to settle out for siphoning between blasting.

So if you end up with an outbreak of cyanobacteria or diatoms in your reef tank or fish-only tank (FOWLR), consider yourself fortunate that it is just cyanobacteria and dyatoms, which are relatively easy to get rid of, and not something more difficult like bryopsis or hair algae. And remember, you are better off preventing than reacting.

The River Murray Rainbow Fish

The River Murray Rainbow Fish, Melanotaenia fluviatilis,is one of the many types of Australian Rainbow fish. This group mainly a tropical and subtropical group of fishes, but this Fish's range extends into warm temperate areas and it is able to take quite low water temperatures.

Origin

The River Murray Rainbow Fish is endemic to Australia. As its name suggests it is found in the River Murray. It is also found in many but not all of the Murray's tributaries and several other river systems and lakes.

Size

They can reach 10 cm (4 inches long), but most are smaller than this. The males tend to be bigger than the females.

Temperature

Most of the articles on the internet about this Fish suggest that a temperature of between 22 and 26 degrees C is ideal for this species. My experience suggests otherwise. Although this is a very versatile fish which will certainly live healthily in an aquarium, being treated as if it were a tropical fish, the specimens with the best colour tend to be pond fish, subject to the natural rise and fall of temperature with the different seasons as well as the different weather.

Water Conditions

This fish is able to take a wide range of conditions. Most of the places it occurs naturally have a high pH and the water is quite hard. In an aquarium I suggest that the pH should be between 6.8 and 8. Excessively soft water is not ideal, but most tap waters will be of a suitable hardness. As with all fish, the Chlorine or Chloramine needs to be removed before it comes into contact with the fish.

Food

This is an omnivorous fish. Like many of its relatives it eats more plant material than most tropical fish. They will live on either Tropical or Goldfish food, but this should be supplemented with vegetable matter. Duckweed (Lemna species) is eaten very readily by this Fish. They also like many types of vegetable. I cook the harder vegetables enough to soften them. Zucchini are eaten as are cucumber, green peas and other vegetables. Like many fish they also relish insect larvae like mosquito larvae, small crustaceans like daphnia, and small worms. Our River Murray Rainbow Fish get frozen blood worms once a week as well as frozen brine shrimp once a week on a different day.

Environmental Enrichment For Your Rat Or Mouse

Rats & mice are extremely active and intelligent animals, and thus require exercise and mental stimulation for optimal health. These animals are often purchased as pets for children and many are housed in smaller than adequate cages with only the bare essentials such as food, water and an exercise wheel. Just imagine how bored you would be living in a bare room with an exercise bike as the only form of mental and physical activity?

There are a number of fun and easy ways you can provide toys and enrich the environment of your pet rat or mouse:

Toys to CHEW - These are necessary for dental health, as rodents teeth grow continuously throughout their life and need to be constantly worn down. Safe chew toys for rats and mice include rawhide chews, nylabones, untreated wood, cardboard rolls, boxes and egg cartons.

Toys to SHRED - Softer items such as toilet paper or tissues, sisal rope and straw provide hours of entertainment for your pet rat or mouse. They particularly enjoy shredding these substances to use as bedding material to line their sleeping areas. Ensure you do not give your pets any toys containing soft rubber, soft plastics, leather or string as these materials can cause an intestinal obstruction.

Toys to PUSH & CARRY - Many rats and mice love to carry or push small toys around. Sturdy, hollow plastic cat toys with bells inside or acrylic toys provide great entertainment for your pet.

CLIMBING Toys - Ladders, branches, hammocks, ropes, PVC tubes, boxes and bird perches can provide numerous climbing opportunities for your pet rat or mouse. These items can be secured to the sides or top of the cage to increase the amount of play area in your pet's cage.

FORAGING Toys - Rats and mice in the wild spend much of their day foraging for food. In captivity, we often put out a bowl of food for our pet rat or mouse and that bowl is simply placed in the same area, with the same food in it every day. Our pets quickly become lazy, bored and overweight from the lack of enrichment and foraging opportunities in their lives. Provide your pet rat or mouse with mental stimulation by hiding their food in specially designed foraging toys, treat balls, cardboard rolls or tubes. Bird foraging toys made from bamboo or cholla cactus can also be used for rodents.

TUNNELS - Rats and mice in the wild use and construct tunnels from items in their environment on a regular basis. Tunnels made of sturdy plastic, acrylic or PVC can be placed in the cage or attached to the side or top of your pet's house. Ensure you select a tunnel with a large enough diameter to prevent your rat or mouse from becoming stuck in the tunnel. Blocks of untreated wood can also be hollowed out to make tunnels which rats and mice may enlarge themselves. You can provide ready-made tunnels for your pet, or allow them to construct their own from various materials provided in their environment.

EXERCISE WHEELS & BALLS - Activity wheels provide an excellent way for your rat or mouse to exercise within the confines of their cage. Solid wheels made from plastic or acrylic are safer and preferable over wheels with wire bars that can trap your pet's feet or tail.

Exercise balls are also a great fitness tool for your rat or mouse outside of the cage. Always monitor your pet while they are playing in an exercise ball to ensure they do not overheat and are always playing in a safe, flat area.

If you have a pet rat or mouse, use your imagination and enrich their life by providing them with a range of toys that will keep them entertained for hours.

Ferret Colors - The Two Main Types

Usually pets like dogs and cats are classified based on their appearances and origins. This is possible because of the large variations in the different varieties. Ferrets, however, do not show many differences in their physical characteristics. They are therefore classified depending on the ferret color and pattern of coloration. The fur of ferrets is made up of "undercoat", which is the original coat, and the "guardhair," which is the long hair. Ferrets are present in many different colors. The coloration considered is that of the guardhair. However, they can all be primarily categorized into albino and sable. The white colored variant is the albino ferret whereas all the remaining colored ones are variants of sable.

Albino ferrets

Albino ferrets are so called because they lack pigments responsible for coloration. That is why they are white in color. The whiteness can vary from a pure white to a yellowish white. They usually have red eyes and pink noses. There are also some varieties with black eyes. These are called Dark eyed white (DEW) ferrets. Albinos have a very endearing appearance and are very popular among ferret-owners.

Sable ferrets

The color sable is a type of a rich brown. It is so dark that it appears black at times. Sable ferrets have brown to black colored guardhair. They have an undercoat that is cream colored and dark brown or black eyes. They also have a mask pattern across their faces. Depending on the intensity of the color, guardhair might appear chocolate, cinnamon or champagne. These are quite common and have lead to some people classifying these as different groups.

The patterning of color on the ferret is also very important and contributes to the identity of your pet. One thing to keep in mind is that ferrets tend to change their color over the natural course of their lives. Silver ferrets tend to turn into DEW ferrets. Similarly, some ferrets may gain and some may lose their color. Therefore, you must not base your choice totally on the ferret color. You must pay more attention to their personality as this is more important.

Ferret Forum - Everything You Need To Know

Sometimes, everyone needs some help with their pets from people who have had same experiences with theirs. The other times they simply want to share their pets' stories and have fun. This is exactly what a Ferret forum is made for. It is a community of people who own a ferret, adore the animal or want to know more about it. Where else can you find accurate information about the little exotic pet?

About ferrets

Ferrets are small creatures, active and very smart but also mischievous. They are quick learners - use a few commands and they will start responding in a few days. If you haven't seen this animal before, imagine an animal between cats and dogs, only smaller. Ferrets are great pets and a lot of fun. You can learn a lot about this domestic animal if you search a Ferret forum - true stories, about their health and nutrition and also some tricks that you can teach them.

Teaching them tricks

Ferrets don't do tricks to please the owner - they do it to get something from them. Therefore, it's a good idea to bribe them when teaching them a new trick. The first thing you can teach your Ferret is responding to its name. Just like dogs, Ferrets also follow commands; they can easily start to recognize their name. Call them repeatedly by their names and when they look at you, reward them to appreciate the effort. Soon, they will leave everything and come running whenever you call them because they know you will treat them with something.

Roll over is an easy maneuver. Make your Ferret lie on its belly and give it a treat. Say "roll over" and roll it over to its back and give another treat. Keep repeating the exercise, giving it scratches and treats and before you know, it will roll over on its own expecting a treat.

The forums also carry information on how to discipline the Ferrets and train them to behave. They are playful and sometimes they could be a bit of trouble. The suggested method is to spray them with water when they're misbehaving but some Ferrets actually enjoy it. Thumping their nose is another way. Ferrets are not afraid of danger and they find trouble somehow. Therefore, you have to watch them carefully to keep them out of harm's way.