Sharks and Rays

Sharks and Rays are fish whose bodies are composed entirely of cartilage, unlike the calcium-containing bones of almost all other fish. The families of interest to the aquarium hobbyist include: Heterodontidae (Horn Sharks), Scyliorhinidae (Cat Sharks), Squatinidae (Angel Sharks), Triakidae (Leopard Sharks), Orectolobidae (Nurse Sharks), and Dasyatidae (Stingrays). There are over 300 species of Sharks and Rays, most of which are too large for the home aquarium. Some species of Cat Sharks, Horn Sharks, and Stingrays make unique aquarium inhabitants.

Sharks and Rays are found throughout the world in tropical and temperate waters. Most of these fish that are available for the home aquarium are found on or around coral reefs, rocky reefs, or lagoons. The diet of Sharks and Rays consists of fish, crustaceans, and mollusks. In an aquarium, vitamin-enriched frozen squid, live ghost shrimp, and other meaty foods should be offered. After the Sharks and Rays have had time to establish themselves in the aquarium, it is advisable to control the amount of food offered in order to slow the growth rate of the fish. Most Sharks will outgrow even very large aquariums. Stingrays often bury themselves partially in the substrate, and many sharks are bottom dwellers, so it is important to keep these fish on fine sand or very fine gravel. A large aquarium from 180 to over 3,000 gallons (depending upon species), proper substrate, and optimum water conditions are important factors when maintaining Sharks and Rays in an aquarium.

Sharks and Rays can cause severe injury to the handler. Stingrays are equipped with a sharp spine on the end of their tail. This spine is used defensively and is venomous. The skin of Sharks is comprised of small, tooth-like scales that feel like sandpaper.

It is important to note that Sharks and Rays should never be exposed to copper-based medications. When absorbed by fish cartilage, they adversely affect the health of the fish.

Use caution when keeping an aquarium with Large Angelfish and bottom dwelling Sharks and Rays. Large Angels have been known to pick the eyes out of these bottom dwellers. Male Sharks and Rays can be identified by the two claspers on the inside edge of the pelvic (bottom) fins. Due to their large size, the breeding of Sharks and Rays in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

Caution is required with: Large Angelfish, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Parrotfish and Squirrelfish.

They are not compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Eels, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Seahorses & Pipefish, Sharks & Rays, Tangs & Surgeons, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

Seahorses and Pipefish

Both Seahorses and Pipefish belong to the Syngnathidae family. Seahorses are classified in the genus Hippocampus, and most Pipefish are classified as Sygnathinae or Doriorhamphus. The average size in an aquarium of most Seahorses is approximately five inches, and most Pipefish reach a length of eight inches. The largest Seahorse can reach a height of over 14 inches in the wild. All these fish have bony plates on their bodies with elongated snouts. Seahorses are found in temperate and tropical waters around the world, in shallow reefs, or in algae and grass beds. Most of these fish are found in small groups but they can sometimes be more solitary. They live mainly on small crustaceans and small fish. Most Seahorses and Pipefish have the ability to change color to match their environment, reducing the risk of being spotted by a predator.

Seahorses and Pipefish are relatively hardy and adjust well to life in an aquarium if provided with the proper environment. These fish should be maintained in good water conditions, with low current and plenty of branching gorgonias, algae, or coral decorations. Seahorses and Pipefish swim very slowly, and have difficulty competing for food when other fish are present in the aquarium. For this reason, these fish are best kept in a species tank, containing only Seahorses and Pipefish. In an aquarium, these fish usually prefer live foods such as vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, small ghost shrimp, or copepods and amphipods found in live rock.

Male Seahorses can be recognized by their pouch, which is located under their abdomen. Female Seahorses have a smooth abdomen with no pouch. The male Pipefish and Seahorses carry eggs on their stomach or in their pouch until their young hatch. These young Seahorses are miniature replicas of their adult parents. The breeding of these fish in an aquarium can be accomplished easily, and the fry can successfully be raised to maturity.

They are generally compatible with: Seahorses & Pipefish.

Caution is required with: Gobies.

They are not compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Eels, Filefish, Goatfish, Groupers, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Sharks & Rays, Squirrelfish, Tangs & Surgeons, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

Lionfish and Scorpionfish

Lionfish and Scorpionfish belong to the Scorpaenidae family. The genera of available fish include Rhinopias, Scorpaenopsis, Taenianotus, Pterois, and Dendrochirus. These fish are found throughout the world in tropical and temperate waters, and are most commonly associated with coral reefs. These fish are closely related to Sea Robbins and Sculpins. The size of these fish varies, but most members reach an average length of seven inches in an aquarium. The largest member of this family can reach an adult size of over 20 inches in length in the wild.

All members of this family are venomous; they have hollow dorsal (top) spines that are used to deliver toxic venom. The sting from these fish is quite painful, and the reaction to its sting varies among individuals. In the unlikely event that breathing difficulty or vomiting occurs, seek medical help immediately. Lionfish are not usually aggressive toward aquarium owners and most stings result from inattentiveness while cleaning the aquarium.

Lions and Scorpions are hardy fish that adapt well to life in an aquarium. Most of these fish are solitary, but some species are found in small groups. Members of this family eat small fish and crustaceans in the wild. They usually prefer live foods in an aquarium, but some species convert to frozen foods quickly especially when young. Provide these fish with ample hiding places and an appropriately sized aquarium for the species.

No distinguishing characteristics differentiate males from females, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Boxfish, Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Puffers and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anthias, Batfish, Butterflyfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Sharks & Rays, Squirrelfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Basslets, Blennies, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Gobies, Hawkfish, Pseudochromis and Seahorses & Pipefish.

Groupers

Groupers belong to the Serranidae family. The most common genus of this family of fish found in the aquarium trade is Cephalopholis. Groupers belonging to the genera Variola, Cromileptes, and Grammistes are also available. Most Groupers grow quite large (over 12 inches) in an aquarium and frequently outgrow the average-sized aquarium. The largest member of this family can attain a size of over eight feet in length in the wild. Groupers are closely related to Pseudochromis, and can be recognized by their large mouth, and the three spines or plates on their gill covering. Some Groupers are called Soapfish, and can secrete a mucus of toxins to ward off predators. Groupers are found throughout the world, and are most commonly associated with coral reefs or rocky areas. Most Groupers are solitary in the wild, spending their time in caves or overhangs, waiting for a passing meal. The diet of these fish consists of fish, crustaceans, and cephalopods.
Groupers are very hardy aquarium specimens, and can adapt to a wide range of conditions. A large aquarium with adequate hiding places is necessary to maintain Groupers in an aquarium. It is advisable to keep only one species of Grouper per tank, as these fish may become aggressive towards other tankmates and themselves. In most cases, no distinguishing characteristics differentiate males from females, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Large Angelfish, Eels, Lionfish & Scorpionfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Boxfish, Goatfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Sharks & Rays, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Gobies, Groupers, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Seahorses & Pipefish and Squirrelfish.

Eels

Eels available to the marine aquarium enthusiast belong to three distinct families. Moray Eels belong to the family Muraenidae. Garden and Conger Eels belong to the family Heterocongridae. Snake and Worm Eels belong to the family Ophichthidae. The most common genera of Eels available include: Echidna, Rhinomuraena, Gymnothorax, Myrichthys, and Taenioconger. Most Eels reach a size of 24 to 36 inches in an aquarium. In the wild, the largest species reaches a length of over 12 feet. Eels are found in tropical and temperate waters around the world. They are most commonly associated with coral reefs, rocky areas, or sandy flats.

Moray Eels are equipped with razor sharp teeth used to eat prey and ward off predators. Other types of Eels use holes and crevices within the reef to easily elude predators. As the name suggests, Garden Eels live in large colonies in sandy flats. Moray and Snake Eels live a more solitary life taking refuge in small holes within the reef.

Eels feed mostly on fish and crustaceans, and most species adjust well to life in an aquarium and are very hardy inhabitants. A larger aquarium with adequate hiding places and a well-sealed lid is essential for maintaining Eels in an aquarium; they are expert escape artists.

In the majority of these fish, no recognizable characteristics differentiate males from females. It is extremely difficult to breed Eels in an aquarium.

They are generally compatible with: Large Angelfish, Boxfish, Groupers, Grunts & Sweetlips, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Puffers and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anthias, Batfish, Butterflyfish, Eels, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Squirrelfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Anglers & Frogfish, Basslets, Blennies, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Hawkfish, Pseudochromis, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Triggerfish

Triggerfish belong to the Balistidae family. Genera of interest to aquarists include Balistoides, Melichthys, Pseudobalistes, Xanthichthys, Sufflamen, Odonus, and Rhinecanthus. Triggerfish are found in tropical and temperate waters throughout the world inhabiting various areas of the ocean. They feed primarily on bottom dwelling invertebrates, small fish, and some algae. Most Triggerfish are found as individuals or pairs, but some species can be found in schools in the wild. Most of these fish reach an average size of six inches in length in an aquarium, and in the wild, the largest member of this family grows to an adult size of over 30 inches.

Triggerfish get their name from their ability to lock (or trigger) their first dorsal (top) spine vertically, anchoring themselves into a crevice or hiding place. This spine can only be unlocked by positioning their second dorsal spine horizontally.

Triggerfish are very hardy aquarium specimens that adapt well to captivity if provided with a large tank with ample hiding places. Large Triggerfish often become very aggressive toward the same species and other tankmates. Triggerfish are best purchased as juveniles or when small. Smaller triggers will grow quickly, and are usually more docile in adulthood than Triggerfish that have matured in the wild.

Live foods such as feeder fish often increase the aggression level of Triggerfish in an aquarium. Feed captive Triggerfish a varied diet that includes primarily meaty foods, supplementing the diet with Spirulina, algae, or dried seaweed.

Males of the genus Xanthichthys are usually more colorful than females, but other genera of Triggerfish have no distinguishing characteristics to differentiate males from females. The breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

Caution is required with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Eels, Goatfish, Gobies, Groupers, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Parrotfish, Puffers, Squirrelfish, Tangs & Surgeons, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Anglers & Frogfish, Basslets, Batfish, Cardinalfish, Filefish, Pseudochromis, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Squirrelfish

Squirrelfish belong to the Holocentridae family. Most Squirrelfish, often confused with their relatives the Soldierfish, are classified in the genera Holocentrus, Sargocentron, or Myripristus. Most of these fish reach a size of around five inches in an aquarium, and in the wild, the largest member of this family grows to an adult size of over 17 inches. They are easily recognized by their red or orange color and large eyes. Squirrelfish are most active at night, and can often be heard emitting a distinctive grunting noise, made by contracting the muscles around their swimbladder.

Squirrelfish fish are found throughout the world and are almost always associated with coral reefs. Most Squirrelfish frequent ledges or overhangs in large groups, and often swim inverted. Their diet includes small fish, plankton, and other invertebrates.

Squirrelfish are very hardy aquarium fish that adapt well to life in an aquarium if provided with the proper environment. The ideal aquarium for these fish includes a larger sized aquarium (over 70 gallons), plenty of rockwork and overhangs, and a well-sealed lid. Squirrelfish do best when maintained in a small group. All Squirrelfish should be introduced to the aquarium simultaneously to limit aggression toward one particular fish. No distinguishing characteristics differentiate males from females, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Clownfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Damselfish, Eels, Gobies, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Sharks & Rays, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Groupers and Seahorses & Pipefish.

Grunts & Sweetlips

Grunts and Sweetlips belong to the Haemulidae family. Sweetlips are classified in the genus Plectorhinchus, and the Grunts that are available in the aquarium trade are classified in the genus Anisotremus. Grunts and Sweetlips are closely related to Snappers. Sweetlips get their name from their large, fleshy lips, and Grunts for their ability to grind their teeth together resulting in a grunting noise. Most Sweetlips are found throughout the Indo-Pacific region, while Grunts are mainly found in the Atlantic. Both of these fish are most commonly associated with coral reefs or rocky areas. In an aquarium, Sweetlips and Grunts average six inches in size, but in the wild, the largest member of this family reaches over two feet in length.

Both Grunts and Sweetlips go through a drastic change in coloration and pattern from the juvenile to adult phases. Grunts are almost always found in large shoals, while depending on the age, Sweetlips are often seen in small groups or as solitary individuals. The diet of members of this family consists of worms, zooplankton, and small crustaceans. Most Grunts and Sweetlips adapt to the aquarium setting well, though special care is required for some species to start feeding. Small freshwater ghost shrimp work well to entice the fish in this family to start eating in an aquarium; from there, frozen foods which are specifically for marine fish can be offered. This family of fish requires a large tank with ample hiding places, and peaceful tank mates when young to adapt to life in an aquarium. No distinguishing characteristics differentiate males from females, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Eels, Filefish, Goatfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Damselfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Groupers, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Filefish

Filefish belong to the Balistidae family and the Monacanthinae subfamily. Most Filefish available in the aquarium trade belong to the genus Pervagor. Filefish belonging to the genera Oxymonacanthus, Chaetodermis, and Monacanthus are also available. Most Filefish grow to around six inches in an aquarium, but in the wild, the largest member of this family can reach a length of 40 inches. Filefish are closely related to Triggerfish and Boxfish. Filefish are found throughout the world in tropical and temperate waters, and are most commonly associated with coral reefs or rocky areas. Most species of Filefish have two dorsal spines, one larger than the other, and rough, textured scales. Filefish are most often found swimming alone, however, some species within this group are found in pairs or in a small school in the wild.

The diet of Filefish varies within the group. The majority of Filefish feed on algae and crustaceans. One species feeds exclusively on live coral polyps. Most Filefish do extremely well in an aquarium and make ideal candidates for the average home aquarium. Filefish are generally peaceful, but may become aggressive toward smaller, more passive fish and also with members of their own species. Provide Filefish with adequate hiding places and ample swimming space.

Some male Filefish can be distinguished from their female counterpart by sporting hooks on the end of their scales just below their eyes. Filefish are extremely difficult to breed in an aquarium.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Large Angelfish, Damselfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Pseudochromis and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Eels, Groupers, Seahorses & Pipefish, Sharks & Rays and Triggerfish.

Cardinalfish

Cardinalfish belong to the Apogonidae family. The genera of available fish in this group include Apogon, Sphaeramia, and Pterapogon. The average size of most Cardinalfish in an aquarium is two inches. In the wild, the largest member of this family of fish reaches an adult size of six inches in length. Cardinalfish are closely related to Bigeyes, and are recognized by their two distinctive dorsal (top) fins. The majority of the species within this family are red, hence the name Cardinalfish. These fish are prominently associated with coral reefs, and are found throughout the world. Most Cardinalfish are found in groups in the wild, actively feeding on small fish and crustaceans.

These fish make great additions to a peaceful aquarium, adapting well to life in an aquarium. Extensive rockwork and coral decorations should be provided to enable the fish to retreat from other tank mates. No significant or distinctive characteristics differentiate males from females. Cardinalfish are mouth-breeding fishes, similar to some of the freshwater African Cichlids. The male Cardinalfish will incubate the fertilized eggs in its mouth, protecting the precious eggs from hungry predators. These fish can be bred successfully in an aquarium, and the fry can be raised to adulthood with appropriate care.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Filefish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish and Puffers.

Caution is required with: Large Angelfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Damselfish, Goatfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Squirrelfish, Tangs & Surgeons and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Anglers & Frogfish, Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Seahorses & Pipefish, Sharks & Rays and Triggerfish.

Butterflyfish

Butterflyfish belong to the Chaetodontidae family and are classified into 11 genera which consist of Amphichaetodon, Chaetodon, Chlemon, Clelmonops, Coradion, Forcipiger, Hemitaurichthys, Heniochus, Johnrandallia, Parachaetodon, and Prognathodes. Most of these fish reach an adult size of six inches in an aquarium, and they can grow to almost 12 inches in length in the wild. As adults, they live exclusively on coral reefs around the world.
The majority of Butterflyfish are brightly colored, and some have a dark spot or eye band on the posterior of the body. This spot or eye band is called a false eye and is used to confuse predators so the Butterflyfish can escape from aggression or attack. Most Butterflyfish use their sharp dorsal or top fin to defend themselves, but are relatively peaceful toward other tank inhabitants. A larger tank with ample hiding places is needed in order to successfully maintain some species of Butterflyfish.

Most members of this grouping of fish are found in pairs, while others may form small schools. Very few species of butterflies are solitary and territorial in nature.

In the wild, the diet of these fish varies greatly among the different genera, and include live coral polyps, sessile invertebrates, and zooplankton. The captive care of this group of fish varies a great deal due to the special feeding requirements (live coral polyp) of some species.

As with most species of marine fish, sexual differences are not distinguishable. The breeding of these fish is extremely difficult in an aquarium.

Butterflyfish in general have a very elegant look. They are the Discus of the marine aquarium: sensitive, yet with remarkable patterns; high in price and demand, but very enjoyable for the right owner. Such an owner has a good maintenance record and keeps excellent water conditions; he or she is probably not a beginning or intermediate hobbyist.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis and Puffers.

Caution is required with: Butterflyfish, Damselfish, Eels, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Squirrelfish, Tangs & Surgeons, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Groupers, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Batfish

Batfish belong to the Ephippididae family. The majority of the species that are available for sale in the aquarium trade are from the genus Platax. Batfish can reach a size of around 15 inches in an aquarium, and over 20 inches in the wild. Batfish are usually recognized by their elongated dorsal (top) and anal (bottom) fins when young. As the fish grow, the fins become shorter and the body becomes longer.
Batfish live in tropical and subtropical oceans throughout the world. Juvenile Batfish live in inshore waters with mangroves, floating on the surface of the water in order to mimic a floating leaf. Larger Batfish usually are found on or around coral reefs. Depending on the age of the fish, Batfish can be found in schools, or as solitary individuals. The diet of Batfish consists of invertebrates such as worms, small anemones, hydroids, and small crustaceans.

Most Batfish adapt well to the average home aquarium. Please remember that Batfish grow extremely fast in an aquarium and an adequately sized tank with plenty of swimming room must be considered. As with most other marine fish, sexual differences are not distinguishable. Due to the large adult size, the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Parrotfish, Puffers and Squirrelfish.

Caution is required with: Anthias, Basslets, Blennies, Cardinalfish, Damselfish, Eels, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Pseudochromis and Tangs & Surgeons.

They are not compatible with: Batfish, Groupers, Seahorses & Pipefish, Sharks & Rays, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

Anglers & Frogfish

Frogfish are commonly referred to as Anglers, and belong to the Antennariidae family. The majority of the fish available in the aquarium trade belong to the Antennarius genus. The closest relatives of these fish are the Toadfish. Anglers are found throughout the world in temperate and tropical waters, and are most commonly found on coral reefs, or around rocky formations. Frogfish can be distinguished from other bottom dwelling fish by their modified pelvic or bottom fins which look like legs, and are used to walk about the reef in search of a suitable spot to "fish" for a meal. The average size of most of these fish in an aquarium is around three inches in length, and the largest species can reach over 13 inches in the wild.

Most of these unusual fish camouflage themselves to resemble a shelter area such as a rock, sponge, or other sessile invertebrates and algae in order to attract prey. The fish are equipped with an appendage located on the first dorsal (top) spine. This elongated fleshy spine is adorned with a tip that resembles a worm or small fish. The Frogfish can move this spine quickly when prey is in sight. This movement resembles that of a fishing pole equipped with line and bait, thus the name Anglers.

Frogfish use their unusual color patterns as a form of defense, blending in well with their surroundings. Another characteristic that is unique to most Frogfish is the ability to change colors to match their surroundings. These fish have the ability to gulp water or air and increase their girth quickly to avoid being eaten by a predator.

The diet of Frogfish includes fish (including smaller Frogfish) and crustaceans. These fish adapt well to life in an aquarium, and are relatively hardy tank inhabitants. Their ideal tank surroundings include plenty of rockwork or coral decorations to provide adequate hiding places. Male Frogfish are usually smaller than their female counterparts, but no color forms or visible characteristics are present to distinguish males from females. Frogfish can be bred in an aquarium, but rearing of the offspring is difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Batfish, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Filefish, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Dwarf Angelfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Goatfish, Groupers, Hawkfish, Parrotfish, Puffers and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Basslets, Blennies, Cardinalfish, Eels, Gobies, Pseudochromis, Seahorses & Pipefish, Sharks & Rays and Triggerfish.

Wrasse

Wrasse belong to the Labridae family. With 60 genera and over 500 species, Wrasse are one of the largest families of coral reef fish. The size of Wrasse in an aquarium varies considerably within each genus, but most reach an average size of six inches in length. In the wild, the largest member of this family grows to an adult size of over six feet. Wrasse are closely related to Parrotfish, and can be recognized by their bright colors and elongated body with a pointed snout. Wrasse are found throughout the world in all marine habitats. Most Wrasse are schooling fish, but others may be found in a harem or as individuals when young. Most Wrasse bury themselves in the sand at night, and also when threatened.

Some Wrasse are referred to as Cleaner Fish, and will set up a station on the reef to pick parasites and dead tissue from larger fish, including predators. Most Cleaner Wrasse are recognized by other reef fish, and are not eaten by larger fish on the reef.

Some Wrasse adapt well to life in an aquarium, but others may require special attention and should only be kept by very experienced aquarists. Wrasse must have an aquarium with a well-sealed lid, along with fine substrate, and good water conditions.

Some species of Wrasse go through drastic color changes from juvenile to adult form. Most species of Wrasse have no characteristics that differentiate males from females, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Large Angelfish, Boxfish, Damselfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Blennies, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Eels, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Groupers, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Parrotfish, Puffers, Squirrelfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Batfish, Pseudochromis, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Tangs and Surgeonfish

Tangs or Surgeonfish belong to the Acanthuridae family, and are classified into six genera which include Acanthurus, Paracanthurus, Ctenochaetus, Naso, Zebrasoma, and Prionurus. Tangs are commonly referred to as Surgeonfish or Doctorfish and can be identified by their characteristic spine or spines on the side of their bodies near the tail. These scalpel-like spine or spines are used in aggression and to defend themselves from other fish. Use caution when handling these fish since their spines can inflict a painful wound. Tangs are found throughout the world, and are most commonly associated with coral or rocky reefs. Tangs are commonly found in schools, though some may be found in pairs, or even solitary when young. Most Tangs reach a length of six inches in an aquarium, but the largest member of this family grows to over 28 inches in the wild.
These fish adapt well to an aquarium setting if provided with a few hiding places and plenty of room to swim. If more than one species of Tang is going to be kept, introduce different genera along with different-sized specimens simultaneously to limit aggression. Tangs are often susceptible to marine ich due to their small scales, so use caution if the fish will be introduced into a reef aquarium. They are also susceptible to lateral line erosion. A good diet will help prevent the erosion and a UV sterilizer attached to the aquarium system will minimize the possibility of ich and other parasites. Most Tangs feed on algae and detritus, so provide foods containing Spirulina algae or dried seaweed, and other vegetable matter.

No distinguishing characteristics differentiate males from females, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult. It is also very difficult to rear the fry, since they remain in the planktonic stage for months and would be in constant danger from the filters.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Blennies, Boxfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Eels, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Groupers, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Wrasse.

Caution is required with: Batfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Tangs & Surgeons and Triggerfish.

They are not compatible with: Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Puffers, Porcupinefish, and Burrfish

Puffers belong to two distinct families. The Diodontidae family consists of Porcupinefish and Burrfish, and all have spines, spikes, or burrs on their bodies. The Tetraodontidae family consists of Puffers and Tobies that have no visible spines on their skin. The most common genera of Puffers are Arothron, Diodon, Canthigaster, and Chilomycterus. Most of these fish are found in temperate and tropical waters around the world. The majority of these fish are found on or around coral reefs, while others prefer lagoons or bays. Puffers are solitary in the wild, although occasionally they can be found in small groups. Most species of Puffers reach approximately eight inches in length in an aquarium with the exception of the Canthigaster Puffers, which reach an average size of only three inches. The largest member of these two families can reach an adult size of over 30 inches in the wild.

Puffers are closely related to Boxfish, and have the ability to inflate their abdomen by gulping water or air quickly, which increases the size of their bodies. The fish can double or even triple in size, reducing the likelihood that a predator will swallow it.

The diet of these fish includes crustaceans and other hard-shelled invertebrates. Puffers are relatively hardy and adapt well to captivity if provided with swimming room, a varied meaty diet, and a few hiding places.

Most Puffers have no recognizable characteristics that differentiate males from females, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Batfish, Blennies, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Eels, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Parrotfish, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Anglers & Frogfish, Basslets, Boxfish, Pseudochromis, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Groupers, Puffers, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Pseudochromis

Pseudochromis belong to the Pseudochromidae family, and are commonly referred to as Dottybacks. Most members of this group of fish are classified in the genus Pseudochromis, and a few in the genus Labracinus. These fish are brightly colored and small compared to their closest relative, the Groupers. Most of these fish reach a size of three inches in an aquarium, and the largest member of this family reaches an adult size of around seven inches in the wild. Most members of this family are brightly colored, and make interesting aquarium specimens. Pseudochromis are found in tropical waters throughout the world, frequenting coral reefs or rocky areas. Most members are solitary though some may be seen in pairs.
These fish are very hardy aquarium specimens that adjust well to an aquarium setting. Pseudochromis feed on plankton, small crustaceans, and worms. In an aquarium, pseudochromis will accept most prepared foods, and help to keep the population of bristleworms under control in reef aquariums. The ideal aquarium should include a well-sealed lid, and plenty of rockwork and hiding places. Only one species should be maintained in an aquarium, as these fishes are extremely territorial. In most cases, no recognizable characteristics differentiate males from females. Several species of pseudochromis have been successfully spawned in an aquarium.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anthias, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Large Angelfish, Batfish, Blennies, Cardinalfish, Filefish, Hogfish, Parrotfish and Puffers.

They are not compatible with: Anglers & Frogfish, Basslets, Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Pseudochromis, Seahorses & Pipefish, Sharks & Rays, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

Parrotfish

Parrotfish belong to the Scaridae family. The majority of these fish are classified in the genera Scarus, Cetoscarus, and Sparisoma. Most Parrotfish grow to well over 12 inches in length in an aquarium, and the largest member of this family reaches an adult size of over 60 inches in length in the wild. Parrotfish are closely related to Wrasse, and can be easily recognized by their distinctive beak-like teeth. These powerful teeth are used to bite and crush pieces of coral to extract algae and polyps for food. The crushed coral (sand) is then expelled from the gill openings of the fish.
Parrotfish are found throughout the world and are most commonly associated with coral reefs or lagoons. Most of these fish are found in shoals when younger, but as the fish grows to an adult size, it becomes more solitary. Parrotfish are known for their strange and unique behavior at night. These fish will rest in a secluded spot, and secrete an opaque or transparent mucus that surrounds their entire body in order to protect themselves from predators.

Most Parrotfish are relatively hardy aquarium specimens that adjust well to captivity if provided with plenty of swimming space. The ideal aquarium for Parrotfish is over 100 gallons, and contains plenty of coral skeletons to help keep their teeth worn down. Feed Parrotfish a varied diet of foods that contain plenty of Spirulina algae. Most Parrotfish males are more vivid in coloration than females.The breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult due to their large adult size.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Batfish, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Anglers & Frogfish, Basslets, Blennies, Cardinalfish, Eels, Gobies, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Pseudochromis, Sharks & Rays, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Seahorses & Pipefish.

Hogfish

Hogfish belong to the Labridae family. All these fish are classified in the genus Bodianus. Most Hogfish reach a size of around seven inches in an aquarium, and the largest member of this family reaches over 30 inches in the wild. These fish are in the same family as Wrasse, and are closely related to Parrotfish. Hogfish can be recognized by their elongated snout, protruding lips, and sharp teeth. Hogfish are found in tropical waters around the world, and are most commonly associated with coral reefs, rocky outcrops, or lagoons. Depending on the age of the fish, most Hogfish are found in groups, or as solitary individuals.
Like a few other marine fish, most Hogfish go through a drastic color change from juvenile to adult form. Some of these fish act as cleaners when young, picking parasites from larger fish.

Hogfish feed on small fish, shellfish, and crustaceans, and make very hardy aquarium dwellers that adapt well to an aquarium setting. Provide Hogfish with an aquarium with a well-sealed lid, ample hiding places, and plenty of swimming room. These fish grow quickly and require a large aquarium for long-term success. In the majority of these fish, no distinguishing characteristics differentiate males from females, and breeding in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Hawkfish, Parrotfish, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Cardinalfish, Eels, Gobies, Groupers, Grunts & Sweetlips, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Pseudochromis, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Hogfish, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Hawkfish

Hawkfish belong to the Cirrhitidae family. The genera of Hawkfish available in the aquarium trade consist of Cirrhitus, Oxycirrhitus, Neocirrhitus, Paracirrhites, and Amblycirrhites. Hawkfish are found in tropical waters throughout the world, and are almost always associated with coral reefs. Most Hawkfish reach a size of three inches in an aquarium, and the largest member of the family reaches an adult size of over 20 inches in the wild. Hawkfish are closely related to Morwongs. Most Hawkfish have cirri, or hairs on the tips of their dorsal (top) fins, and also behind their nostrils.
Hawkfish get their name from their hunting techniques, which are similar to a hawk. The fish will rest atop the highest point on the coral reef, waiting for suitable prey to appear. The fish will then dive down to capture prey. They consume plankton, crustaceans, and small fish in the wild.

Hawkfish are hardy aquarium specimens that adjust well to life in an aquarium. Hawkfish can do well in reef aquariums, although they will eat smaller shrimp and fish. A well-sealed lid and adequate hiding places are required to maintain these fish in an aquarium. In most cases, only one Hawkfish can be kept per tank, unless the aquarium is extremely large.

These fish are found in small harems or in pairs. No distinguishing characteristics differentiate males from females, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Anglers & Frogfish, Grunts & Sweetlips, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Gobies

Gobies belong to the Gobiidae family, and make up the largest family of marine fishes. The families Microdesmidae (Firefishes), Callionymidae (Mandarins), Opistognathidae (Jawfish), and Malacanthidae (Tilefish) are often included in the group of fish called gobies. Although these families are not Gobies, they are close relatives which have similar characteristics or habits. The genera of Gobies are extensive, consisting of over 200, far too many to list. Gobies are relatively small fish, usually reaching a size of only three inches in an aquarium. The largest member of the Goby family can reach a length of over 20 inches in the wild. Gobies can be recognized by their long, tubular shape. Most members of this group have two dorsal (top) fins. Gobies are found throughout the world in tropical and temperate waters, occupying coral reefs, rocky areas, or lagoons. Most Gobies are found in pairs or small groups, and are often associated with crustaceas or sessile invertebrates. Some Gobies spend their lives with pistol shrimp, sharing a burrow; other species of gobies live on the branches of sea fans, sponges, or live corals. A small number of Gobies also act as cleaners, picking parasites and dead skin from larger fish.

The diet of these fish consists of zooplankton, small crustaceans, and algae. Most Gobies and related fish adjust well to life in an aquarium. It is important to note that a well-sealed lid is a requirement for keeping these fish, as they will jump out of an open aquarium with great ease. Plenty of rockwork and the proper substrate of coral sand should be provided to enable the burrowing or sand-sifting Gobies the proper environment. In the majority of the Gobies, no significant characteristics differentiate males from females. The breeding of some species of Gobies has been accomplished in an aquarium, and the fry of these fish have been reared to adulthood successfully.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Hawkfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Large Angelfish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Seahorses & Pipefish, Squirrelfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Anglers & Frogfish, Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish and Sharks & Rays.

Goatfish

Goatfish are members of the Mullidae family which contains six genera: Mulloidichthys, Mullus, Parupeneus, Pseudupeneus, Upeneus, and Upeneichthys. They can be found in the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans. They prefer sand bottoms near rocky substrate or coral reefs, in very shallow water, and are usually found in small groups. They are generally colorful fish with long bodies and forked tails.
Goatfish are scavengers, using the long barbels under their mouths to probe the sand or holes in the reef for invertebrates or small fish. When not actively searching for food, the barbels often lay flat against their chins. Goatfish tend to feed at night, and therefore, do best in low-lit aquariums. The diet should consist of chopped clams, brine fish, bloodworms, and prepared foods.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Anglers & Frogfish, Cardinalfish, Goatfish, Gobies, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Eels, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Clownfish

Clownfish belong to the Pomacentridae family and the Amphiprioninae subfamily. The majority of these fish belong to the genus Amphiprion. Clownfish are very hardy and among the most common fish associated with marine aquariums. Clownfish are similar to Damselfish and both of these fish are classified in the same family. Clownfish are most abundant throughout shallow waters in the Indo-Pacific region, and are almost always associated with sea anemones. Clownfish can live safely within the stinging tentacles of a sea anemone, where they receive protection from predators and other territorial fish. Most Clownfish are brightly colored with white stripes on the head or side of the body. The average size of Clownfish in an aquarium is around three inches, and in the wild they can be over seven inches. Depending on the age of the fish, Clownfish are found in either groups or mated pairs.

The diet of Clownfish consists of small crustaceans, plankton and algae. Clownfish prefer to live in an anemone, but it is not required for long-term health and survival in an aquarium. Ideally, Clownfish should be purchased in small groups consisting of one species, and introduced to the aquarium simultaneously. It is difficult to maintain several different species together, as the more aggressive species will usually kill off the weaker individuals.

Unlike most other marine fishes, the female is much larger than the male of the same species, but no color differences differentiate the sexes. Clownfish also have the ability to change sex, where the most dominant male will become a female, and can successfully produce offspring. Clownfish can be bred in an aquarium, and the offspring have been raised successfully for many years.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Anglers & Frogfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Boxfish

Boxfish belong to the Ostraciidae family, and are often referred to as Trunkfish or Cowfish. Most of these fish are members of the genera Ostracion, Lactoria, or Tetrasomus. Boxfish reach an average size of three inches in an aquarium, while in the wild, they can grow to over 19 inches in length. Boxfish are closely related to both Puffers and Filefish. In most cases male Boxfish are larger and more colorful than their female counterpart.

Boxfish are easily recognized by their distinctive square or boxlike shapes. Their sides are actually bony plates covered by a thin skin. This becomes important if there are so-called cleaner fish in your tank, as the Cowfish's delicate skin may not tolerate this behavior. Two pairs of bony horns distinguish the Cowfish — one on the head and one just above the caudal fin. The horn-like protrusions from the head and above the caudal fin serve to deter predators. Some Boxfish have the ability to release a toxin called ostracitoxin, which is used to ward off predators. It is important to note that if this toxin is released into the aquarium, all the tank inhabitants can be killed, although this does not occur often.

Only the fins of the Cowfish are moveable, which they use to slowly propel themselves through the water. Since they have poorer locomotion, it is necessary to carefully monitor their eating habits, since more aggressive tank mates may prevent them from reaching the food. Cowfish are omnivorous bottom feeders, consuming both algae and crustaceans and sampling polyps on occasion.

Boxfish are found throughout the world, and are most commonly associated with coral reefs. They can also be found near rocky areas, sand flats or grass beds. Most of these fish are found in harems of one male and several females. The breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

It is imperative to maintain Boxfish with peaceful tank mates as they are often easy targets for more aggressive fish. If more than one Boxfish is to be kept in the aquarium, it is advisable to introduce similar sized fish to the aquarium simultaneously.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Eels, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Squirrelfish, Tangs & Surgeons and Wrasse.

Caution is required with: Boxfish, Groupers, Puffers and Triggerfish.

They are not compatible with: Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Blennies

Blennies are a diverse group of fish, most of which belong to the families Blenniidae and Chaenopsidae. The most popular aquarium specimens belong to the genera Ecsenius, Salarias, and Meiacanthus. Most Blennies reach a size of three inches in an aquarium, while the largest of the group can reach over seven inches in length in the wild. Blennies are closely related to Gobies, and often are recognized by the cirri or eyelashes over their eyes and nostrils. These fish are usually bottom dwellers, and are most commonly associated with coral reefs or rocky areas. Blennies are found in tropical and temperate waters throughout the world, and most aquarium specimens come from the Indo-Pacific region. Most Blennies spend their time on the reef grazing on microalgae and small crustaceans.
Blennies in an aquarium are somewhat territorial in nature, and only one species per tank is recommended for most of the fish in this group. The exception to this rule is fish from the genus Meiacanthus, which can be kept together in a small group. With all Blennies, extensive rockwork and a good growth of microalgae are necessary to successfully maintain them in an aquarium. Most Blennies are ideally suited for life in the home aquarium. They are relatively hardy, and adjust well to an aquarium.

No distinguishing characteristics are present to identify males from females, although most females are larger than males. The breeding of these fish in an aquarium is difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Anglers & Frogfish, Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Basslets

Basslets belong to the Grammidae family. These fish are commonly known as Fairy Basslets, or Pygmy Basslets, and consist of the genera Gramma and Lipogramma. Closely related to Groupers, Basslets are found mostly in the Western Atlantic, and most commonly associated with coral reefs. Some of the species are found at depths of more than 300 feet. Basslets are found on reef slopes close to caves, ledges, or coral formations.

Most Basslets reach a size of two inches in length in an aquarium, and the largest reaches an adult size of four inches in the wild. Basslets are colorful, hardy, and generally peaceful aquarium specimens, although they can become territorial. If more than one member of the species is added to the aquarium, it is imperative to add these fish simultaneously, as severe conflicts may arise. Offer these fish plenty of hiding places, in the form of rockwork or coral decorations.

Most Basslets feed on zooplankton and other small crustaceans.

No distinctive color forms or markings differentiate males and females. The breeding of these fish in an aquarium has been accomplished successfully, but the rearing of the fry is often difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Batfish, Blennies, Cardinalfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Puffers and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Anglers & Frogfish, Basslets, Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Pseudochromis, Seahorses & Pipefish, Sharks & Rays and Triggerfish.

Large Angelfish

Marine Large Angelfish belong to the Pomacanthidae family, and are classified into seven different genera which include: Pomacanthus, Holacanthus, Pygoplities, Apolemichthys, Euxiphipops, Chaetodontoplus, and Genicanthus. Some Angels in this group undergo drastic color changes from juvenile to adult patterns. Unlike most other Angelfish, some members of genus Genicanthus have distinguishing color differences between males and females. Males are usually larger and more colorful than females of the same species. The largest Pomacanthus Angel reaches a maximum size of over 20 inches in the wild. All Angelfish can be distinguished from their closest relative the Butterflyfish, by the characteristic spine on their lower cheek. This spine is used defensively, but can also be used in aggression.

Angels are found throughout the world, and are most commonly associated with coral reefs. They inhabit lagoons, reef slopes, drop offs, rocky areas, rubble areas, and areas of rich coral formations.

Most members of this group of fish are found in pairs or harems in the wild. A harem consists of one male and several females. Most Angels that form harems in the wild are capable of changing sex. If the male of the harem is eaten by a predator or dies, the dominant female can change sex to become the dominant male. The fish will actually change form, and will also have the ability to successfully spawn with other females. The breeding of Angelfish in an aquarium is extremely difficult. It is advisable not to introduce Angels from the same genus into one aquarium, as fighting will usually occur.

In the wild, the diet of Large Angelfish consists of microalgae, macroalgae, sponges, and zooplankton. Some juvenile Angels in this group act as cleaners when very young, picking parasites and dead tissue from other fish in the wild. In an aquarium, most angelfish should be fed a diet including vegetable matter and meaty items. High-quality angelfish preparations containing sponges are also advised.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Eels, Goatfish, Groupers, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Parrotfish, Puffers, Squirrelfish, Tangs & Surgeons and Wrasse.

Caution is required with: Cardinalfish, Filefish, Gobies, Pseudochromis, Sharks & Rays and Triggerfish.

They are not compatible with: Large Angelfish and Seahorses & Pipefish.

Dwarf Angelfish

Marine Dwarf Angels or Pygmy Angels belong to the Pomacanthidae family. The majority of these fish are classified in the genus Centropyge, and a few in the genus Paracentropyge. Most Angels in this group reach a size of up to four inches in an aquarium. In the wild, the largest reach an adult size of no more than six inches in length. Dwarf Angels are among the most colorful and most popular of all marine fish. All Angelfish can be distinguished from their closest relative the Butterflyfish, by their characteristic spine on the lower edge of their cheek. This spine is used defensively when the fish is harassed, but it can also be used aggressively. These Angels are found throughout the world and are most commonly associated with coral reefs. They inhabit lagoons, reef slopes, drop offs, rocky areas, rubble areas, and areas of rich coral formations. Most Dwarf Angels are found in pairs, but a few species are solitary and territorial.

Dwarf Angels usually do not mix well together in the average home aquarium unless the tank is larger than 70 gallons. If Dwarf Angels are going to be maintained together, try to vary the sizes of the fish, and add the Dwarf Angelfish to the aquarium simultaneously. This will help prevent one specimen from developing too large a territory and becoming overly aggressive.

As with most species of marine fish, sexual differences are not distinguishable. The Dwarf Angels are hermaphroditic, and the breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

In the wild, the diet of these fish consists mainly of algae and tunicates. The majority of Dwarf Angels adapt well to life in an aquarium, as long as ample hiding places are provided along with algae for grazing.

They are generally compatible with: Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Anthias, Basslets, Batfish, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Dwarf Angelfish, Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Anthias

Anthias belong to the Serranidae family, and the Anthiinae subfamily. The genera of Anthias include: Anthias, Holanthias, Luzonichthys, Nemanthias, Plectranthias, Pseudanthias, Rabaulichthys, and Serranocirrhitus. Anthias are closely related to Sea Basses and Groupers. These fish can be recognized by their brilliant colors and elongated bodies. Anthias are found throughout the world, and exclusively inhabit coral reefs. Most Anthias reach a size of about four inches in an aquarium, and the largest reach an adult size of over eight inches in the wild.


In the wild, Anthias are seen in massive shoals where they hover above coral formations devouring zooplankton that pass by in the current. Most fish in this group are relatively hardy, but require food often (3 or 4 times per day) in order to thrive in the home aquarium.

Due to the complex social structure of Anthias in the wild, it is advisable to keep one specimen per tank in the average home aquarium. If the aquarium is over four feet in length, and has extensive hiding places, it is possible to maintain a small group of Anthias in an aquarium, as long as all of the fish are added simultaneously. Fish within this group should be maintained with other peaceful tankmates.

Male Anthias are usually larger and more colorful than females of the same species. Anthias have the ability to change sex. If the dominant male of the group should perish, the largest female will change color form, and will have the ability to successfully spawn with other females. The breeding of these fish in an aquarium is extremely difficult.

They are generally compatible with: Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anglers & Frogfish, Basslets, Blennies, Boxfish, Butterflyfish, Clownfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Goatfish, Gobies, Grunts & Sweetlips, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelfish and Tangs & Surgeons.

Caution is required with: Anthias, Batfish, Cardinalfish, Eels, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Triggerfish and Wrasse.

They are not compatible with: Groupers, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Damselfish

Damselfish belong to the Pomacentridae family. Most available fish belong to one of the following genera: Abudefduf, Dascyllus, Chromis, Chrysiptera, Paraglyphidon, Pomacentrus, and Stegastes. Damselfish are closely related to Clownfish, which are also a member of the Pomacentridae family. Damselfish are found throughout the world, and are almost always associated with coral reefs. The average size of most Damsels in an aquarium is around two inches, but in the wild the largest member of this family reaches over 14 inches in length.

Damselfish are often used to break in or cycle a new aquarium. It is important to remember that even though these fish are hardy and can handle the adverse conditions of a new aquarium, they may become quite aggressive among themselves, and toward other tankmates. Most of these fish stay in small shoals in the wild when young, breaking away from the group as they grow, and eventually become solitary as adults. When dealing with several Damsels in one aquarium, plenty of rockwork and hiding places are necessary in order to keep quarrels to a minimum. The Chromis are a genus of Damsels that are schooling fish. They do well in an aquarium in groups of the same species.

No significant markings or distinguishing characteristics differentiate males from females. Damselfish can be successfully spawned in an aquarium. The male Damsel is usually responsible for the care and maintenance of the eggs after the fish have spawned.

They are generally compatible with:
Dwarf Angelfish, Large Angelfish, Anthias, Basslets, Blennies, Boxfish, Clownfish, Goatfish, Gobies, Hawkfish, Hogfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Tangs & Surgeons and Wrasse.

Caution is required with:
Anglers & Frogfish, Batfish, Butterflyfish, Cardinalfish, Damselfish, Filefish, Grunts & Sweetlips, Squirrelfish and Triggerfish.

They are not compatible with:
Eels, Groupers, Lionfish & Scorpionfish, Seahorses & Pipefish and Sharks & Rays.

Marine Tropical Fish - What You Need to Know As a Marine Tropical Fish Pet Owner

Having marine tropical fish in your home or office may be an easier task than you think. A lot of people assume that marine tropical fish are hard to care for. Despite a few basic guidelines and compatibility rules, taking care of tropical fish is no different than freshwater fish. If you want to start your own marine tropical tank, here's what you'll need to know.

Marine tropical fish are popular because of their bold and bright colors. They live in saltwater environments. The fish are normally caught in the wild and require more live food than other types of fish. Their tanks have to be kept between 76 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit to replicate the tropical water environment.

To start, you'll need a tank, sand, a heater, salt mix, a hydrometer, a protein skimmer and a pH kit. You can ask the aquarium specialist at your local pet shop for tips on how to use these components together to take care of your marine tropical fish. There are also many books and websites on the topic, since taking care of tropical fish can have a learning curve.

If you want to make your marine tropical fish tank easy to take care of, you should start with Damselfish and Clownfish. Damselfish come in many different varieties, but the most popular color is blue. Clownfish were the model for the main character in the film "Finding Nemo."

Once you get more comfortable with taking care of marine tropical fish, you can move on to other varieties. Blennies, Gobies, Tangs, Hawkfish, shrimp and crabs are all good choices for the intermediate saltwater aquarium owner. For a challenge, you can care for tanks with Triggerfish, Lionfish, Seahorses, Anemones, Corals, Eels, Groupers and Starfish. Make sure you check with marine tropical fish compatibility charts before adding any new fish to your tank.

Lobster Tanks Info

Though they resemble fish, lobsters are not fish, but animals who survive on air. So they should always be kept in oxygen-enriched environment, to keep them alive. Otherwise, they will drown. They don't have blood and muscles but gain strength from internal fluids that they go on pushing from one chamber of the body to another. Hence they are called as hydraulically operated animals. Due to their hard shells, lobsters are also called as crustaceans. Their body fluid is essential for their survival. If this fluid is lost, their body starts deteriorating and the hard shells turn soft and slimy. The death of a lobster is final when their body elements start deteriorating, beginning with the tail detaching itself from the body and exposing the flesh. Hence lobsters should be handled with special care and maintenance of certain environmental conditions is necessary, when they are kept in the tanks.

Retaining the balance of environment in the tank is one of the most important factors. Biological filters like pads, bio rocks, etc. should be kept in the tank to support the growth of bacteria that destroy the pollutants emitted by the lobsters and thus help in maintaining the environmental balance. The amount of bacteria is important to balance the system, since their levels can increase or decrease based on the number of lobsters within the tank. According to scientific studies, the number of lobsters should equal the number of bacteria. In case of any discrepancy in the numbers, the bacteria are outnumbered and hence cannot destroy the growing amount of waste in the tank. This leads to rapid instruction and death of the lobsters and the bacteria.

Albino Corydora Catfish

Belonging to the Catfish family, Albino Corydoras grow to about 2- inches in length, the female being a bit larger than the male. They are white to pink in color with pink eyes that appear to be looking directly at you. Surrounding their mouths are barbels with which they hunt for food. It is vital to have nothing in the aquarium with jagged edges as the barbels are quite delicate and even rough gravel can damage them. Check everything for roughness before putting it in the aquarium. These fish are non-aggressive in nature, yet are able to hold their own against a more aggressive fish due to their spined fins. Because they are schooling fish, Corydoras are happiest in a group of five or more of their own species. They are playful and love to chase each other, taking occasional breaks to swim to the surface for a gulp of air, sometimes making a good splash before swimming back to the bottom.

The Albino Corydoras are a fish that can thrive in the smaller aquarium. It is acceptable to house a group of 6 -- 8 in a 10- gallon tank. They are hardy enough to withstand most water conditions, with the exception of salted water. Keep the temperature ot the water between 72 -- 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Have for them plenty of plant life as they will rest under the plants to take refuge of the lights from time to time. These fish will eat flaked foods, but being bottom feeders they will wait until the flakes have made the journey to the floor of the aquarium. If you have other species in the aquarium who feed from the surface, consider giving sinking pellets to the Corydoras. They will welcome treats such as live worms and frozen brine shrimp too.

Breeding is no problem for the Albino Corydoras. After spawning, the mother carries the eggs with her ventral fins to deposit them onto plant life and aquarium decorations. If you wish to raise the fry, carefully remove a plant that she placed the eggs onto and put it into a separate tank. But you will have to act soon, as the adult fish will waste no time devouring the eggs. In the end, the mother will have scattered up to 200 eggs. After about one week the fry will hatch. Be sure to lower the setting of the air filter afore-hand because a powerful stream will injure the tiny fry. Feed microworms to them for the first week, after which you may slowly introduce them to flakes and pellets. When they reach about 3/4- inches in length they will be safe in the community tank. It's quite amusing to see the adult Albino Corydoras and the babies together, as the babies look like exact replicas of their parents, barbels and all. And with a little tender loving care, you can expect these babies to live approximately five years.

Seasonal Tips For Feeding Your Koi

Because koi are cold-blooded their metabolism is heavily influenced by the changing of the water temperature during the different seasons. Feeding koi too much food during cold winter months or too little during summer months can become a health hazard. It is vital that you understand how the temperature will affect the koi so you can adjust your feedings accordingly.

A pond thermometer is a great way to provide accurate readings of your pond water throughout the year. Because of the changes in the metabolism of your koi their digestion will become very slow during very cold months, when they produce little if any enzymes that enable them to digest their food. During warmer temperatures their metabolism speeds up, activity increases and growth occurs. This is when they will require daily feedings.

Each season also requires a different type of food. It is important to adjust the protein and carbohydrate content of their diet as well as the amount of food they eat. Some koi are more active than others so you will have to adjust the type of food and the amount of food to your particular type of koi. Another consideration is will be for koi that are smaller and still growing verses koi that has reached their maximum growth potential.

Summer Koi Feedings

During summer months when water temperatures are at their warmest, your koi will be very active. This is a time when they have the most potential for growth. It is also a time when they will need to be gaining some extra weight for the winter months when feeding is minimal.

Feeding your koi very small meals throughout the day will produce better results than feeding one big daily meal. Feeding small meals several times daily will help in the taming of your koi to eat right from your palms. Another benefit of taming your koi is the ability for you to check them over and if needed remove them from the pond should they become unhealthy and need some type of treatment or quarantine.

Spring Koi Feedings

During spring when the water temperatures are between 45° and 55°F koi do well on a low-protein diet because their digestive enzymes are not at their optimum. As temperatures raise from winter, their metabolism increases, however, it is not an instant change. If your koi have not been eating for weeks or very little food, you will need to slowly increase their food. Feeding too much too fast can create digestion problems. Vegetable-based food with protein are the most common foods offered during the time when they have a slower metabolism.

Feeding Koi During Winter Months

When the temperatures drops below . One way is to take your koi out of your pond and bring them into the garage or someplace where the water temperatures will not be dropping so low it could cause problems. The other way to help your koi cope is to stop feeding them altogether or to feed very minimally.

Rather than stating a set rule here it is best for you to talk to your koi dealer as to the type of koi you have and their feeding and wintering needs. Some koi require more oxygen then others as well as other differences that should be individually addressed.

Bad Feeding Habits for Koi

Some people enjoy feeding their koi fresh foods like sweet corn, peas, lettuce and brown bread. While these items may be ok from time to time, they can become a problem as they do not provide a balanced diet and in some cases can be very hard to digest. In addition, these types of food meals can create excessive waste and create cloudy water in your pond.

If your pond is adequately filtered with the water quality being stable, feeding your koi little treats such as those listed above should not prove to be a problem. One way to overcome the excessive waste would be to make sure the excess food is removed from the pond before it can rot and making these sorts of meals more as rare occasional treats presented during active summer months when koi digestion is at it's peek.

Maintaining a good habitual watch on your pond water temperature will insure proper food adjustments as temperatures change from one season to the next. Help your koi live a long and healthy life by educating yourself and learning from others rather than learning painful lessons from inexperience and a lack of proper education.