Cat Behavior - Feral Cats

If you're not quite sure what feral cat behavior is, here's a pretty good definition. A feral cat is one that has escaped from domestication and returned, partly or wholly, to a wild state. In other words, it's a cat that has gone "wild" or has been born and raised in the wild.

Some incredibly inhumane people assume their cats will survive when they move away and leave them behind. Contrary to popular belief, the behavior of domestic cats will not automatically return to the "natural" instinctive state. Therefore it has to be understood that under these circumstances, cats cannot automatically fend for themselves! Many end up starving, abused or becoming food for predators.

Cats that exhibit this type behavior are elusive and do not trust humans. And since these cats are primarily the "wild" offspring of domestic cats that are non-neutered or spayed, that have been abandoned, these animals when left alone will breed uncontrollably.

The behavioral habits of non-neutered cats, especially males, makes them unwelcome. A pair of cats capable of breeding can have two or more litters per year, over a seven-year period can exponentially produce 420,000 offspring.

What's more, the feral cat colonies may act as reservoirs of disease which can be transmitted to your domestic pet cat when they interact with feral cats. In some countries there is also the fear of feral cat colonies spreading rabies and affecting humans.

There are government groups and privatized coalitions that are asked to help control such colonies through trap-neuter-return programs. These groups often encounter feral kittens during trapping. Since kittens attract more attention and sympathy from people than do adult cats, these groups find themselves in possession of spitty, hissy kittens which need to be tamed and homed.

It has been estimated by highly skilled groups that specialize in taming and reintroducing the feral cat to domestics that the average life span of a feral cat is less than two years on their own.

The good news; it has been proven that any cat can be re-domesticated given the right circumstances and enough time. To expedite this process, feral cat behavior has been separated into three classes. This classification program was done in an effort to better understand how to approach these cats and determine which cats would be the easiest to re-domesticate.

All About Ragdoll Cats

Is the Ragdoll the perfect pet? If you're unfamiliar with the Ragdoll cat breed you are in for a treat. This mellow and outgoing feline is quickly becoming of the most popular cat breeds, and for good reason.

History of the Ragdoll

The most widely accepted belief is that the Ragdoll breed originated back in the 1960's by a woman named Ann Baker, located in Riverside California. The breed was selectively bred over several years for specific traits, such as a large size, gentle temperament, and a tendency to go limp when held.

Physical Characteristics

The Ragdoll large in size and the body is usually stocky with short legs, and large in size compared with other cat breeds. The Ragdoll is listed with Guinness book of world records as the largest cat, with males ranging 12-20 pounds, and females averaging 10-15 pounds.

They have long, thick fur coats and markings that resemble a Siamese. There are four marking patterns: bi-color, van, mitted and pointed. They also usually come in six colors: seal, blue, chocolate, lilac, red, and cream. Points may be solid, lynx, or tortie. All Ragdolls also have piercing blue eyes that are a popular trait among owners.

Personality

Some people describe that Ragdoll has having a 'doglike' personality and this is absolutely true. They love to follow their owners around and crave attention. Their personality is laid back and they are content watching and observing whatever you are doing. They have been known to play ball or fetch and enjoy lots of activity. Ragdolls make excellent family pets and are really good with children and other animals.

As mentioned before, some Ragdolls will 'go limp' when you pick them up and hold them in your arms. They also like to lie on their backs with all four paws in the air displaying their general easy going nature. Due to their mellow personality, Ragdoll should be kept inside as much as possible. Ragdolls may have a hard time defending themselves to outside threats for this reason.

Care Guidelines

Ragdoll cats are generally easy to care for and have a smooth long coat that should be brushed a few times a week at minimum. Regular food and water is important, just like with any pet. Make sure to have toys and a scratching post at minimum to keep them occupied when you are not around. Claws should be clipped on a regular basis and you should establish a relationship with a good vet for regular checkups and vaccinations.

Locating Ragdoll Cats

Ragdolls are a special breed, and you should expect to pay a fair amount of money to get one. Prices of $400 or more are very common, especially from a reputable breeder that has kittens from champion bloodlines. Make sure to get registered papers and a health guarantee from any breeder you deal with.

Ten Tips For Cat Car Travel

Many pet owners consider their animals to be part of the family. Therefore, it is unsurprising that some cat owners wish to include their feline friends in trips and vacations. On the other hand, a car journey may be a necessity, for example when taking your cat to the vet.

However, some cats make very reluctant passengers. If your pet is an anxious traveler or you are new to cat ownership, these ten tips may help to acclimatize your cat to traveling by car.

1. Firstly, it is crucial that a cat has a travel crate or carrier. This is important even if your pet is relaxed during car journeys, because a loose animal may cause a distraction to the driver and, in the event of an accident, could cause severe injury to your pet.

2. Before purchasing a travel carrier, it is important that you consider the size of your cat and equipment that you may wish to place in the carrier. It is always a good idea to ensure that your cat can lie down, stand up and turn around in the carrier, but you may also like to consider space for a small litter tray, and perhaps a toy to help relax your pet.

3. It is advisable to purchase a water bottle for your travel carrier, because a bowl can easily spill in transit. Alternatively, you should be prepared to make several stops in order for your cat to have a drink.

4. When taking breaks, it is a good idea to allow your cat a chance to stretch his, or her, legs. However, owners should be careful to ensure that their pet cannot make a run for it. Therefore, you may like to consider purchasing a leash to keep your feline safe.

5. You may find that your cat suffers from motion sickness and is, therefore, an uneasy passenger. In these circumstances, there are some medications, which will ease the symptoms of nausea and mild anxiety, available that can be administered to the cat in his, or her, drinking water prior to the time of travel.

6. However, if your cat's symptoms are more severe, you may find it beneficial to visit your veterinarian. Vets can prescribe more powerful medication, which is intended to reduce the more acute symptoms.

7. Some very long journeys require an overnight stop. Unsurprisingly, owners are advised to plan their stop prior to travel to ensure that their pet will be welcome too.

8. Overnight stops can cause problems, however. Often cats that have had an opportunity to spend the night in a cozy hotel will not be eager to return to the travel carrier in the morning. You may find it very difficult to coax your cat from a hiding place. Therefore, it is wise to give yourself time for this eventuality, so you will not overrun your checkout time.

9. If you have brought new equipment for your journey, it is advisable to allow your pet to become accustomed to it before use. In other words, place the carrier, litter tray and leash in reach of your cat. Additionally, you may find it helpful to practice using the new equipment with your feline companion.

10. With a new cat, or one that suffers from travel anxiety, it is a good idea to acclimatize your pet to the notion of traveling in small stages. For example, you may find it useful to place your cat in its carrier and sit in the car with it, but not start or move the car. If the cat responds well, you should try to take him, or her, on a 5-10 minute trip. Gradually increase the length of your car journeys, until your cat is completely comfortable with car travel.

Of course, some cats are just too fearful of traveling for this advice to be of any use. If attempts to desensitize your cat have failed, it may be kinder to ask a friend, neighbor or relative to look after your pet while you are away.

Tips on Neon Tetra Care and Breeding

Neon tetras or Paracheirodon innesi are members of the family Characidae. Characidae are commonly referred to as Characins. This species is native to southeastern Columbia, eastern Peru, and western Brazil, including the tributaries of Solimoes. They can be found in black water or clear water streams.

Neon tetras and cardinal tetras look very similar in appearance. Put them in the same aquarium together and most people wouldn't be aware they are two different species. Both have metallic neon blue upper bodies and a brilliant red stripe in the center of their bodies. This stripe is found mid-body running to back the tail in neons. The stripe runs the entire length of a cardinal's body.

Both neons and cardinals are a favorite among the freshwater aquarist who prefers smaller aquarium set ups because of their intense color palette. They really brighten up a desktop aquarium.

Tetras make good community fish as long as the other members of the community are all smaller varieties. These fish are slender bodied fish that only reach 1.5 inches fully grown. A large adult fish can swallow one whole as a snack. They tend to be a shy species so give them with plenty of plants and aquarium décor to hide in. This will also provide sanctuary from more aggressive fish.

Water in South America is slightly acidic, around pH 6.8. Water temperature ranges from70-79°F. Your fish will thrive in similar conditions.

These are mid-tank swimmers. They are shoaling fish. Shoaling fish do not cope well when isolated from other members of their own species. Many will not survive in solitude. It is advisable to have at least four neons in your aquarium.

This species is omnivorous. They are perfectly cable of surviving on common tropical fish flakes.

Males and females look pretty much the same. Female body tends to be a little fuller. This is more apparent when she is carrying eggs.

Breeding Neon Tetras

All tetras are egg layers. They will spawn in captivity. Feeding them a diet high in protein will help initiate the spawning cycle. Brine shrimp, tubifex or bloodworms will help achieve the desired results. They will not breed in hard, alkaline water. Slightly acidic water between pH 6.0-6.2 is conducive to spawning.

If you are unable to sex your neons, place the entire group in a properly prepare breeding tank. Water filtered through peat or a small layer added to the substrate will simulate optimum breeding conditions. Make sure there are no chemical additives or fertilizers on the peat.

The breeding tank should have an abundance of floating plants. Hornwort will work just fine. Keep the breeding tank in a dimly lit room.

Neon tetras will scatter their eggs. Once spawning is complete all the adults should be promptly removed from the tank. Egg layers are known to feast on their un-hatched eggs.

Fry will hatch in about 24 hours. They will be free swimming in a couple of days. Once they are free swimming they, can be fed infusoria or some other liquid fry food formulated for egg layers. When they get a little bigger switch their diet to newly hatched brine shrimp, powdered fry food or powdered eggs.

Tips on Pearl Gourami Care and Spawning

The pearl gourami or Trichogaster leeri is a member of the family Belontiidae. Pearl Gouramis inhabit the lowland swap waters of Sumatra, Borneo, Malaysia and Thailand.

All gouramis belong to the suborder Anabantid. The members of this suborder evolved in poorly oxygenated environments. They subsequently developed an auxiliary breathing apparatus in addition to their gills. This lung-like organ, the labyrinth organ, allows them to breathe atmospheric oxygen. At some point in the evolutionary process they became dependent on both as a means of survival. They will die without a combination of dissolved and airborne oxygen. This is why they are frequently seen at the water's surface.

Unlike the paradise fish, the pearl gourami is a timid creature. They are good additions to a community tank if they are provided with plants, rocks and aquarium décor in which to hide. There optimum water condition is a neutral pH with a water temperature around 78 °F.

Pearl gouramis reach a length of approximately 5 inches and have a life expectancy of 5 years.

They are omnivorous. But they tend to function better on a balanced variety of tropical fish flakes and protein whether freeze-dried, frozen or live.

This species is sexually dimorphic, meaning each sex possesses traits specific to their gender such as size and coloration. Males are typically larger and more colorful than females. The males also exhibit an orange tinge to their fins with the exception of the tail fin. Males have a bright orange region around their throat area. This distinctive coloring is not present in juveniles. It develops as the fish reaches sexual maturity. The color intensifies prior to spawning and is used to attract the female of the species.

Breeding Gouramis

Gouramis have a natural inclination to pair up. Gouramis spawn in still water in their natural habitat. Turn the filter capacity in your breeding tank down prior to spawning. The color of the male's throat region will indicate that he is ready to spawn. A sponge filter works well to simulate mating conditions. And you have the added bonus of not having to worry about the fry getting sucked up into the filter.

Provide plants for the breeding tank. The male will use his labyrinth to build a bubble nest on the water's surface. He will use some of the provided plant matter to help the nest stay together.

Gouramis instinctively spawn underneath the bubble nest. Once fertilization occurs, the male gourami will gather up the eggs with his mouth and spit them into the bubble nest to mature.

Remove the female gourami from the breeding tank after they have spawned. It is the male's job to tend to the nest. He will guard and care for the eggs until they hatch. You will find the male a very attentive custodian of his future offspring.

The fry will hatch in approximately 24 hours. They will be free swimming in 2-3 days. It is now time to remove the male to insure that he does not eat the fry. Once free swimming, the fry can be fed infusoria, or rotifers. When they get about a week old feed them powdered fry food, or newly hatched brine shrimp. An economical alternative is powdered eggs. Make sure not to over feed the fry or you will foul up the water in your tank.